Our Family History

January 1920

A short time ago a village about 18 miles from here was raided by a large mixed gang of Sheramis & Suliman Khels. A sqdn. of ours was there at the time & the subaltern in charge did not move into the bazaar. There raiding only lasted about three quarters of an hour & the BO contented himself with manning the alarm posts. The raiders then retired to the hills.

On account of this the powers that be ordered the Draban sqdn. to move south to another village called Chaudwan, the sqdn here to move to Diraban & two squadrons of the 27th to go there also from Fank.

I was detailed to go with the sqdn from here & a Amar Singh & army started off at about 2.30 on Dec. 23rd. It had been raining pretty hard all day & it looked as though we were in for a wetting. We had with a us 14 mules which were a beastly nuisance; they kept lying down with their loads & sliding into nallahs & generally misbehaving themselves. I felt rather sorry for them poor brutes; they work hard all day long carrying water & the ground on that day was as slippery as a sheet of ice.

We hadn't gone an hour before it was apparent that we couldn't get in before dark. I took a troop & went on ahead at the fastest possible walk & trot pace. I got in just before dark & the place looked pretty miserable in the rain & the mud was awful. Having seen to the men & horses, I arranged to send up Very lights every 15 minutes to guide Amar Singh in; I then invaded a Major of the Frontier Constabulary & demanded dinner. He was a crusty old sort who lives by himself & won't have anything to do with a any other BO in the station, but I dripped mud & water over his carpet quite cheerfully!

Amar Singh & the baggage eventually arrived safely & we settled down to sleep in tents pitched in the middle of the fort. I didn't get much sleep however as I kept getting wires from the Chaudwan Sqdn. Saying that all was 'thik'. Amar Singh was too slack to take them himself.

Next day the 27th blew in & got settled down. I met several old friends among the B.O.s & we were a very cheery mess that night.

Christmas Day we spent in Chaudwanzam trying to entice the bushman to come out & give us a show. We only saw two or three in the distance who fired a couple of shots & bolted! I spent my Christmas lying on my tummy scanning the hills with glasses for signs of the enemy. We returned home before dark rather disappointed!

Next day the Kulachi contingent came back here & the 27th passed through on their way back to Fank a short time ago. Since then things have been the same as usual - I spent most of my time in the Office except for a two hour parade in the morning when I usually practice for Stokes & Hotchkiss men.

I enclose a highly decorated eulogy presented to "Major General" Hill on the day of peace celebrations here. The English translation is distinctly funny & you will see that the Risaldar-Major & I 'enlarge the splendour of Kulachi'! The Hindus who presented at seemed very much in earnest but they are asking impossibilities as the only water we can get is from wells sunk in the dry bed of the Jumi river. As for cattle slaughter - Amar Singh is very hot on that & says that the Mohammedans kill cattle merely to annoy the Hindus, which I don't believe.

We have started playing polo here three-a-side but it is not much good. The ground of course is not suitable for polo; one horse alone raises a cloud of dust. However we get some good gallops & that is the main thing.

There is just a chance that I might get leave home at the end of this show. Being only attached 16th I'm not down on their furlough roster so it won't affect any of them if I do slip off to Blighty! It might upset somebody in the 20th but I think a good many have been home while overseas.

I've just made about the attack on Lord French in Dublin. I hope this new scheme will do something to pacify Ireland but greatly doubt it! After all submerging Ireland for half an hour under the sea seems to be the only solution!

Your affectionate son

Teddy

February 1920

Four or five days ago the C.O. Told me that I would have to go to Fank to join "C" Sqdn as the sqdn. officer there had gone on leave. I was not sorry to go as I would chuck up being Qr. Mr. & revert to ordinary sqdn. work which I have not done for a long time now. I left Kulachi & pushed across to Hathala where our Indian Captain Amar Singh is at present. I stayed a couple of days of there to play polo as there is no polo in Fank & Amar Singh was pleased to have another BO there to put a bit of ginger into the game! The 2nd/41st Dogras passed through while I was there on their way up the line so we had 15 or 16 fellows for dinner. Theor C.O. was in the 16th until 1915 & he had plenty to say to the J.O.s who all came round to see him. He left the 16th as he had no chance of getting command of the regt.

I rode up here the day before yesterday 16 miles up the good road. My kit & bearer went on the small gauge railway which runs up from D.J.K to Fank. I beat the train on my horse so you can see that it is not exactly an express!

Fank is not much of a place - full of stockyards & ordnance depots & supply depots & I much prefer Kulachi. We have to sqdns. here, A & E; I am in C; my sqdn. C.O. Is a young captain with six years' service - very nice chap from the 19th Hussars.

My first night here I dined with the Brigade staff. Gen. Woigan is not here at present as he is in D.J.K for the horse fair. After dinner at their mess we played poker at which I lost Rs19/-! I was really much too sleepy to take much interest in the game as I had had an early start from Hathala!

The HQ of the 21st Cav. is also hear & we run a combine to mess. They are a very cheery crowd & their guest nights are famous in Fank! We had won last night & I managed to escape with a very moderate amount of drink but it required a lot of tact to do so! Luckily I shall again be going to Kulachi in a few days' time & I shall dine out on the last night; if I dine in Ishall I'll have to drink so there's nothing else for it!
With love to all.

Your affectionate son

Teddy

I'm now back again in Kulachi which I left about a fortnight ago having been in Fank once and Hathala twice. There was not much work doing in Fank - parade 10.00 AM & stables sometimes in the afternoon. In Hathala I was on my own with half the sqdn. & the men were doing guards & picquets of a whole sqdn so I washed out parade there & merely exercised the horses. They had been in Kaur Bridge for some time & were very thin & I was trying to fatten them up a bit.

On Feb. 24th half the sqdn. of the 21st Cav. came in to relieve me. I was supposed to take their camels on two Kulachi but they had most of their kit on the Deccaville railway & only brought fourteen with them. I phoned to Kulachi & they sent me eight which arrived at about 11.00 PM at night. Next morning I was told that the eight had slipped out in the early morning & run away. I sent a section after them & caught them about 5 miles away. The camel drivers explained that they were sent to Hathala 'juberasti se' & they wanted to go & graze their camels. It is very hard to understand these camel men as they talk half Pushtu & half Urdu which there he have picked up from the men. However I arrived here yesterday in court order & found one sqdn. & HQ here. This morning they all went off two Draban leaving Scott & myself here with "C" sqdn. I have put in for 15 days' leave & hope to push off in about a week's time to Delhi where I shall see the late May Stone. I heard from her a short time ago & she is getting a room for me in Maiden's Hotel.

It is just beginning to warm up now & I can see that before long I shall be cursing the day I ever came to the frontier. I hear that the hot weather here is the worst thing that ever happens! We may get away in a couple of months time but by then the bridge of boats on the Indus will be broken & we shall have to march back to Risalpur! That I suppose will been marching by night & sleeping by day - dreadful business!

I hear that the 20th are on their way back from overseas & I have sent a wire to the Adj. of the depot asking for news. When they arrive I shall write to the C.O. & ask him to apply for me. I hear there are between three & four hundred surplus officers in the Cavalry & many will have to go to Infantry. The 16th of full up & I have no chance of getting in with them!

I hope all is still quiet round Cavan & that nobody has been raided yet. I'm afraid Ireland is hardly the quiet spot to live in nowadays - what a pity they didn't bring conscription in in 1915, it would probably have saved all those.
With love to all.

Your affectionate son

Teddy

March 1920

I am still in Draban as staff Lieut. to the Admin. Com. but my job here will probably finish within a week. The Shuami column are due back here tomorrow, all having gone well with them & they have the re-established the posts without any opposition on the part of the Sheramis. The Column I suppose will wind its way back to Fank & the Admin Com. & staff will stay behind to dispose of all the surplus stores dumped here. After that goodness knows what will happen or where I shall go - Byrne hears that the whole of his office; ???, typewriter & all are to be transported to some place with an unpronounceable name to form or another Admin Com's office for the column that is going to ??? the Wana Wazirs. This place I believe is 2000 ft up so will not be as hot as Fank or D.J.K. Byrne also hears that no regt. will get away from here before September on account of the ticklish situation of the whole frontier. That means goodbye to my getting home this year & also means spending the hot weather up here! They say that a certain number of officers of each regt. will get 45 days leave - that's not so bad but as far as I can make out I should not get my 45 days until about September at which time I hope to be crossing the Indus for good!

However these are all ante-room rumours & I don't know how much is true. I should think a hot weather up here would be rather a good experience & if one could stick that one could stick anything & I don't mind trying it.

Draban is easily the best place I've struck out here. There is plenty of water & consequently plenty of trees & there is quite a nice garden in the compound of the policeman's bungalow where we mess. We are also well off for shikar - duck - partridge - sand grouse, chink & pig if only we could find them. The 27th killed a lot of pig here & although we have been out several times we can't strike them. The 27th must have killed them all off although the villagers say there are some about. The other day we were out from 7.00 AM until 4.00 PM shooting duck on a jheel about 9 miles from here. I borrowed a gun & we had quite a good day though the heat was a bit trying about 3 o'clock. The two villages we passed were a mass of trees & green stuff with plenty of cultivation of all round - no wonder the Wazirs come raiding round here.

Now that we have left Kulachi the raiding has started again in the villages near there but we are not taking much notice of it as we are too busy here & are leaving it to the he 'chiggins' of the various villages.

This morning I have been driving at a govt. Ford round the camp & got round the various sandbank emplacements very cunningly but nearly ditched on the open road by trying to go too fast. Luckily the driver was beside me & wrenched the steering wheel round in time! I'm going to have another lesson this afternoon.

Scott & I went to D.J.K the other day in a car to fetch some stores out. We had a hairy drive as he is rather reckless driver & the road of course was awful! However we got back safe enough.

Your affectionate son

Teddy

May 1920

The 2/ Norfolks passed through yesterday & today on their way up the line. Great arrangements were made for them & we had to supply dhota bagiri etc. for them here. A.H.Q. had fearful wind up about them & gave than tons of ice etc. for the journey - treated them like babies all the way up!

We are raided here about three times a week & the picquets & patrols have pitched battles with the badmashes! 400 camels were stolen the other night without a sound from the camel serai - the poor picquet is under arrest!

I shall probably be going two staff FT in D.H.K. before long but I'm doing my best to get back to the 20th. Gen. Climo the Force Com. said goodbye to all the officers today as he is off home. I went up to see his 'rear file' Gen. Leslie & ask about getting back. I don't mind staying up here much during the hot weather but I must get back to the 20th eventually.

It's getting jolly hot here now but still fairly cool at nights luckily. I'm usually up by 5.30 for a ride around Fank to see that all is well & that everybody's lines are nice and clean!

Must try to write again for next mail but will be very busy handing over before going to D.J.K.
Love to Lailah & everybody

Your affectionate son

Teddy

June 1920

I suppose Ralph is home by now & has let you know what his plans are for getting a job. I'm sure there must be plenty of jobs out here only I don't get in touch with the people who have these things to give away so cannot suggest anything. I think secretary to the Raja must be good fun & you occasionally see them advertising for demobbed officers. Of course it wouldn't be too nice having to take orders from one of the dark skinned race but if you can put your pride in your pocket you are alright.

Last night we had a very heavy thunderstorm which lasted from about 12.30 AM to 4.00 AM with a big wind & plenty of rain. This morning it is delightfully cool & will probably stay cool for two or three days now. It is very strange having rain at this time of the year but you can bet nobody complains! It is being up to 113° so far & I suppose it will go up to about 120°.

My application to go back to the 16th has had good effect & has been sanctioned by their Qr. Mr. Is taking my job while I take his. We change over on the 20th as there are several jobs to be finished before I go. Later on I shall probably take over the Rest Camp to allow the C.O. to get his leave.

Gen Woigan of the 20th D.H. came through here yesterday on his way to Simla. He has got the job of Military Secretary to the Prince of Wales when he arrives out here for his visit. He is very bucked about it & no wonder as he will probably get a C.M.G. or something out of it. He told me that he had written about me for the 20th & that Col. Boileau had got my name down. Col. Boileau is in charge of the postings whenever they take place!

I'm thinking of taking 15 days' leave to collect some kit, & also to see the Regt. I shall go to Risalpur first & from there to Numuch & then back. I want to inquire about my gun which I left in Ryan's charge & have heard nothing since although I have written several times about it. Ryan went off to the Political some time after having past five language exams in one year. Later on I shall be able to take a month when I shall go to some hill station.

I enclose a snap of me on a little black donkey taken when we were doing advanced guard to the shirami column at Garah Mastan. I'm meant to enclose it in Lailah's letter.

Love to all

Your affectionate son

Teddy

July 1920

On 2nd I pushed off on that 10 days' leave. I struck it very hot indeed at Darya Khan on the other side of the Indus. It was dry heat which is not so uncomfortable as the wet heat one gets here. I arrived at Risalpur in time for a late breakfast next day & had all like it brought up to the bungalow. I then went right through all my mufti etc. Everything was alright except the green suit which I brought out with me - the white ants had attacked the trousers but I think the darji can patch them up all right here. It was hot in Risalpur - 120° but I turned out for tennis a couple of times - didn't get much sleep at nights however! There I determined to go up to Murree instead of Viemuch as I thought that a few days in the hills would do me the world of good. So I disembarked at Rawal Pindi after tiffen with a pal at Flashman's Hotel. I tootled up in a car having bargained the driver down from Rs42/8 to Rs35/-. The drive up (38 miles) was rather hair raising when you begin to climb. There are some very steep slopes with hairpin bends & nothing between you & a khud of 100 feet or so. My bearer was very pleased indeed to go up as he lives there & I didn't see much of him up there! Up in Murree I crashed into the first hotel I came upon & got a room straight away. The difference in temperature was glorious & got into thick mufti straight away! We had a good bit of rain up their which made it milder still - my prickly heat went away at once & it was glorious to wake up in the morning to hear the rain drumming on the roof & to realise that there was nothing to do but loaf & perhaps a little 'poodle faking' tea at the club! Played a good deal of tennis - what could play the whole morning without feeling too hot! I met several of friends from Wazir Force.

However I only had four & a half days there are so on Saturday I started back again & one could feel it getting hotter & hotter as we slid down the hill in the car! It was very hot again at Darya Khan & the river had risen a lot. I got a tonga & pushed along - we weren't out of sight of the place before we came to two broken bridges & we had to transfer the kit to a country boat & the punted along to where the road was all right. At 'steam a point'I caught the mail launch & it took us 3 hours to cross as we stuck three or four times on sandbanks & once we were nearly upset owing to the steersman turning to sharply with a swift current running. However I arrived all safely & am settled down to work again.

Some time ago I started a couple of frontier sores - one on my left wrist & one on my right forearm. I went to the doctor this morning & he is burning them out with some acid. I also scalded my knee with the shaving water at 5.00 AM this morning said today am a mass of bandages! However am pretty cheerful & feel all the better for my little holiday.

Love to all

Your affectionate son

Teddy

The officers of the 16th are decimated! There is at present only the C.O. & self carrying on with the HQ & two squadrons here & the wing in Fank has only two - making a total of four B.O.s to the whole regiment. I'm not quite whole myself, as I have two frontier sores & a scald on my right knee! The frontier sores are old affairs are being burnt out with acid & look like raw beef underneath. The daily dressing of them is a bit painful but I want to get rid of them as quickly as possible. I got up at 5.00 AM one morning to go on the range & was shaving in the veranda when I upset the boiling water on my right knee! I did not go on the range that morning! I wanted to play polo next day but the C.O. wouldn't let me; however I'm playing now as I put a big bandage on & a pad of cotton wool. The other fellows are all down with fever - sand fly mostly but ought to be all right soon.

Life goes on on the same old routine nowadays & the heat is pretty awful. I crossed the Indus coming back from leave with the temperature at 118° in the middle of the day. I left Darya Khan at about 12.00 PM & reach the mess about 7.00 PM with my arms & knees burnt brick red as I was travelling in shorts. The heat off the sand was beyond description & on the water it wasn't much better as we got all the heat from the engine. When I got in I had a thirst which I wouldn't have sold for Rs100/-! There seems to be an awful kick up over Gen. Dyer in England. Personally I am with him every time & I think every European out here thinks that he saved India from another mutiny. Things the Punjab last year were very bad & he & Col. Johnstone & Sir M. O'Dwyer seemed to have saved the situation. It didn't affect us much as all was quiet in Numuch except one row between Hindus & Mohammedans. Now we're getting Bolshevism creeping in & the authorities are trying their best to keep it out of the Army. When bolshevism joins up with the Musalmans in their present state - then we can look out for trouble. Amar Singh, at were Indian Captain, told me that he knew several rich influential Indians at his home who were out & out Bolshies & were doing all they knew to further the cause. The "Civil & Military Gazette" says there will be a big outbreak in October & no one could be at all surprised if something did happen especially when they see what happened to General Dyer - the Government was simply asking for it! I should rather like to hear what you think of the General Dyer affair.

As for selling out of Ireland I think it is an excellent scheme as it is no country for a law abiding family to live in. It would be a great wrench for you to leave Bingfield but other people have done it. The question is what could you get for the house & land or could you let it? I should not think there is any lengthy queue lined up to buy a land in Ireland just now & if you let it I don't suppose you would get much in the way of rent. However I suppose you are discussing it also. This is a ??? expensive place two live in - messing is Rs3/- a day & I had my highest mess last month - Rs180/- most of the other mess bills were over Rs200/-. I'm afraid I cannot answer you ??? myself but we'll see what the J.O.s do for me

Love to all

Your affectionate son

Teddy

August 1920

As you will know by now I am not back with the 20th but with the 16th - getting back to the 20th will be a bit of a job as it would mean leaving the Force & once you are in the jaws of the Wazir Force it requires almost dynamite to get out, as they are always short of officers. I hear rumours of coming back to peace conditions on the 1st of next month which will be a bit of a jar to everyone. We will then have to pay for houses, food, our own rations etc. & this part of the world is pretty expensive as it is. If we do come back to peace conditions I shall try to get back to the 20th as I might just as well be there as here.

I wrote a pretty long letter to Daddy by this mail in which I gave him all the news are I could think up - perhaps a programme of my average day he might interest you -
5.00 to 5.30 AM - chota hazart - tea and biscuits, dress
6.00 to 7.45 AM - parade - range or mounted
7.45 to 9.00 AM - hospital for dressing of sores - breakfast
9.00 to 10.00 AM - stables, optional (I usually go)
10.00 to 11.00 AM - regimental office etc.
11.00 to 1.00 PM - Rest Camp - inspections, office work etc.
1.00 to 2.00 PM - Tiffen
2.00 to 4.00 PM - sleep, write letters, occasionally lookup text books
4.00 to 5.00 PM - tea & dress
5.00 to 6.30 PM - Rest Camp office work
6.30 to 7.45 PM - polo, tennis
9.30 to 10.30 PM - dinner
11.00 - bed

Not a bad day on the whole but you can see that eight hours' sleep are fitted in two lots & almost everyone gets 2 hours or so during the afternoon & one wants it.

In my letter to Daddy I told him about my leave scheme & I have only about five more weeks to wait. Tuxton scar is not running very well but the firm he bought it from our lending him a driver free for three months. Starting seems to be the difficulty but before we go away we hope it will be all right. We are going to follow Basil's example & fish - we haven't got rods or tackle but that can be remedied up there.

It is much cooler now I'm glad to say & one is beginning to feel alive again. At about 4.00 AM I have to pull a sheet & blanket over me - we still sleep outside under a punkah with a towel fixed on so that it just misses the face; this also keeps away for mosquitoes.

I read the detailed account of the Dyer Debate the other day - it was most interesting & Mr. Rupert Gryme & Sir E Carson gave it to Mr. Montagu hot & strong. Everybody out here is fed up with Mr. Montague & no wonder as he admitted being a personal friend of that seditious scoundrel Gandhi. How can a Secretary of State for India be any good when he keeps such company. I wish he would resign & then we'd get rid of him. I see that the Prince of Wales has postponed his visit owing to ill health; I think there is more than ill health in it as I don't think he would be quite safe out here just now.

I am so sorry to hear about Daddy being ill - to try & impress on him to take things as easy as possible & not try to do too much. I don't think one wants the same amount of exercise at home as one does out here. We had a fellow who used to sleep practically all day & all night. He had a couple of goes a fever & got himself sent up to Simla to convalesce although he was quite fit - absolute scrim-shanking & the Major was very sick about it! Owing to him going away I may have to go to Fank before long.

Your affectionate son

Teddy

Am still going strong in D.J.K & life jogs on as usual. Shall be off to Kashmir in less than three weeks time & only hope that nothing will crop up to stop me going. The heat is much less now that malaria has broken out. The other day there were 50 cases admitted to the hospital here; what with fever & heat stroke there is not a spare bed in the place. My frontier sores are about the same & the doctor is so busy that he only sees them about once a week; his assistant is down with diphtheria! I tried to persuade him to cut the sores right out but he said that might make them worse! Perhaps a cooler climate will have some effect on them.

I couldn't sleep last night so got up and wrote to Nasir Ali telling him that I hoped to see him during the cold weather if I can get down to Delhi. How did you first come across the old bird? I have often heard you talk of him but never knew how you first met. My young bearer Feagl Khan, has not come back from his home in Murree so presume he has got fed up with the heat and"bargoed"! He has taken a pair of my khaki slacks with him & if I ever meet him again it will be a red letter day for him it in more senses than one! Meanwhile I'm carrying on until the end of the month with an old dodderer of a fellow who is useless. I am then engaging another. One sportsmen came up & demanded Rs35/- a month & rations, Rs1/- a day travelling allowance & the same for the hills.  I offered him Rs25/-, Rs-/6 for travelling but he wouldn't take it so I said he could "jao" & as "jaldi" as possible! They are going to publish a station order fixing the pay of servants as some people are paying as much as Rs40/-a month & of course they get rations.

I'm very sorry to hear that you are not up to much & hope that you are taking things as quietly as possible. It is bad news about the rain but I hope you manage to save the harvest as that is so important. It must be very difficult to run the place nowadays, everything being so dear & labour so hard to procure. I suppose you have seen in the papers about this Hijrat stunt. Our depot is in Risalpur & we hear that all the farmers are selling off everything as quickly as possible & are legging it for Afghanistan. Brown of ours has been buying up grain for the regiment at absurdly low prices & I shouldn't be surprised if he hasn't bought a cow or two as well! He is a bit of a farmer & always takes a chance of making a bet.

The British Empire seems to be in a pretty bad way nowadays to take a gloomy view of it. The labourites will not now allow us to make war to help the Poles – I suppose it will all end in a Soviet government for us as it seems that they can do what they like already! I think Mr. Gandhi & Co. made a great mistake when they started the Hijrat movement. The Amir has now issued a definite order postponing Hijrat & the pilgrims are awful sick of being turned back at the frontier. Goodness knows what they will do when they eventually arrive back at their homes & finds the purchasers in possession! This same Mr. Gandhi is a personal friend of the Secretary of State for India whom a certain class are trying to make Viceroy! Some Viceroy!

You say that the soldiers at home are a slack lot! You should see 'em out here they are far slacker than any men of the Indian Army & some regiments are as Bolshie as can be! In Jhansi they used to make a practice of turning British Officers out of tongas coming back after the cinema. The C.O. of this regiment was powerless as he could not put the whole lot in the clink. They don't salute or call you 'Sir' until you speak to them about it! I suppose it is all 'larai ki sabab se' & will come right in the end.

Love to all

Your affectionate son

Teddy

I have just written to Grindlay's asking them to register my name for a passage next March. I'm doing this in case I get leave & I think I have a fair chance of doing it if I'm still in the Force. There are a lot away from the 16th now & they should be back this autumn or early next year & then there is no reason why I shouldn't get it if the General here will sanction it. I'm not sure if the 20th have anything to do with it or not, I hope not as they may crab it! However I live in hopes.

The temperature remains about 106° nowadays with Fank about 108° & slightly cooler after dust storms. Everybody is going sick, there are 45 patients in the B.O.s hospital including old Tuxton who has got malaria for the second time this hot weather.I am still keeping quite fit I'm glad to say & put it down to the exercise. I take 18 chukkers of polo & nine sets of tennis per week thats about my average. The tennis is usually pretty hot too as the CO and & self challenge various other pairs in the station. Today we are playing a couple of sappers & we hope to put it across them as we are unbeaten so far!

My old frontier sores seem no better although the doctor is very optimistic about them. I'm getting fed up with going about in bandages although I'm really so used to them now that I don't notice them much.

We have everything fixed up now for our leave. We push off from here on about September 14 driving the car to Shabash Khel. From there by train to Pindi. There I get out & take off the car while Tuxton goes on to Jhansi to see some people. I look up the 17th cavalry & run the car round until he comes back when we both push off. I shall probably send some of the kit on ahead on tongas as there will be room for all on the car.

The houseboat will cost Rs3/- a day each all included which sounds remarkably cheap. Personally I'm sure there is a catch somewhere & we shall probably have to pay more. Fishing tackle we can get up there but I don't know if we will be doing much fishing. I think we both of us want a complete rest & I am going to do exactly as I like up there.

Another fellow came back the other day from leave & and took over Adjutant from me. The OC Rest Camp also came back so now I am not so busy as before. I have been playing the rest camp fellows pony at polo while he was away; today he rings me up & asks me to lend him one of mine! Personally I'm not too keen as I'm too busy playing them & I'm sure the CO wouldn't let me lend a regimental pony to an outsider. If once that sort of thing began we wouldn't have a horse in the squadron before long & and would become a livery stables!

Please excuse awful scrawl - can't write these days.

Your affectionate son

Teddy

September 1920

Tuxton went on ahead of me taking his car with him. I found him in Murree where we stayed one night & left cards on the CO's wife.& Next morning the servants & heavy kit left the hotel in a hired car at about 7.00 AM. When we came to get Tuxton's car out we found she wasn't going very well but decided to try anyway. It took us about 2 miles & then petered out as it was losing compression somewhere. The night before, Tuxton sacked his driver & I think he must have done something to it out of spite. However we left the car with some Motor Transport people & went back to Murree to get another hired one & finally left Murree at about 11.45 AM. The road makes a long descent of about 27 miles until it gets to the level of the river when it starts a very gradual incline into Kashmir. I think the distance Murree to Srimagar is about 120 miles. There are some very hair raising corners & kuds but the drivers are very expert & can shave past another car at about 30 MPH with a deep gully on the other side. The scenery was topping, hills all round with stacks of trees & down below the Jhelum, which looked very small indeed in places. We stopped the first night in a aok bungalow in Wri which is about three quarters of the way to Srimagar. We had practically no kit as our suff had gone on but that did not worry us much. Next morning we started off at 7.00 AM & it was bitterly cold as it had rained the night before. Before long we left the hills & came out into an open valley with hills in the distance all round. Except for the hills I might have been at home, high crops & green grass was such a change after scorched D.J.K! We arrived in Srimagar had about 10.30 AM on the 12th & found a man waiting for us with a chit to conduct us to the boat. We found our own boat to be occupied so we were put up in another whose occupant was out shooting - it turned out to be Brown of the 16th! There are three main kinds of houseboats (1) very large & comfortable with almost six or seven rooms - awning on the roof & made completely of wood - expensive. (2) smaller but comfortable, four rooms, a bathroom, can sit on roof but no awning, made of wood with thatched roof, moderate in price. (3) Doonga houseboat with sides made of chitai smaller than the other two & very chilly. I should think cheap. Each boat has got a cook boat & a shikara attached. A shikara is rather like a cot in shape but is paddled in deep water & poled in shallow. I don't mean like a baby's cot I mean the cots on the lake at home. The nicer once have awnings over them & they are paddled by a ??? behind.

We got settled in our own boat the next day & then set about getting stores for our trip. A man came round with guns on hire & Tuxton took the only one he had. Mine is still down with Ryan in Bolarum & he is sending it up sometime. I had met old Col. Biddulph at the Club the night before & a bright idea struck me that he might be able to lend me one. He used to command Viemuch but is now retired & lives in the Srimagar. Next day I went around & saw him. He couldn't lend be one but put me on to a pal of his called Bell who lent me a 12 bore hammer which was very nice of him considering I was a perfect stranger. We then got some fishing tackle & I hired a rod, bought cartridges, stores etc. & had a game of tennis at the club. We also fished abit at the Dal Gate & caught about 30 Kashmiri fish & a couple of small Trout using ata as bait. We pushed down the river early next morning & stopped about 5 miles out near a jheil. We dismounted at once & went out on this jheil to see what we could get. Tuxton promptly fell in & spoilt a brand new 'plus four'shooting suit! I laughed until I thought I should fall in myself! We got six pigeon, one snipe, four duck & a species of water bird which I don't think we ate. There was a dance on that night at the club so we sent in for a tonga & arrived there in fall force - short coated & evening shoe-ed! We got back after a good dance at about 4.00 AM feeling like boiled owls! Tuxton fished in the morning but only caught three so we decided to push on two Shadipur about 7 miles downstream.

Next day we were up at 4.00 AM & went in shikaras to a large jheil where we got 16 snipe, both of us shooting very badly. After breakfast we moved down to Sunbal where we now are. Shot teal, pigeon & snipe yesterday & I caught a 2½ lb. Trout on a minnow. Tuxton went off to Srimagar this morning on a tat leaving me in charge. The shikari says there is chikoi near here so will go after them when he comes back.

There is no doubt about it Kashmir is the best spot in India. I bought a camera & have taken some snaps which are he will send home when they are printed. It is topping to walk on nice springy turf - all the villagers look so nice and contented about here - the crops are good & living is cheap. Fruit is dirt cheap - peaches 25 for 10 annas; plums, rupee per hundred. Tuxton eats pears one I each plums & must have eaten about 300 since I came up!

We are quite close to the hills here & I am going out with the camera to do a spot of climbing.

With love to all

Your affectionate son

Teddy

I think I told you that I was going up with a fellow called Tuxton who is in the 16th & was going to drive me up in his car. He was ordered away from D.J.K a sooner than me as he had a go of fever. I went on next day & found him in Murree where we spent one night. Murree is on the Kashmir road & is the hill station for Rawal Pindi. Next day we left in good order sending the servants & heavy kit on ahead in a hired car. However we didn't get very far as Tuxton's car broke down about 2 miles out of Murree. We had to leave it behind & take another hired one! From Murree you go down the hill again until you reach the level of the river Jhelum. The scenery is very good but very similar all the way along until it opens out into the broad valley. High wooded mountains all round with little streams dashing down into the Jhelum below.

We stopped one night at Wri but were unable to catch up our kit so we had to dine as we were.

Next day we arrived in Srimagar at about 10.00 AM having done the remainder of the journey in good style. The river is very broad & there are houseboats everywhere. Ours was in a sort of backwater called for Chinar Bagh & we spent all day settling in. The boat has (starting from the bows) one hall or ante room, two bedrooms & a bathroom. The rooms inside measure about 12 ft long by 8' wide by 10' high & are well furnished with curtains etc. Ours is small but quite comfortable. There are of course much bigger boats chiefly patronised by senior colonel's etc.!

We only stayed or had few days in Srimagar & spent most of our time getting kit for our shoot. When all was ready we pushed off having hired a man to punt the outfit down the river. The outfit consists of our boat, a cook boat & a 'shikara'which is a small flat bottomed boat which you use for moving about in. We stopped near A jheel (Hindustani for bog) about 5 miles out & turned out for shooting straight away. We got a few snipe & pigeon & a couple of duck but we were both shooting very badly. That night we went into Srimagar again for a dance & didn't get back to the boat till 3.30 AM very tired & weary!

Next we went on to a place called Shadipur where there was more game & we did better shooting. The fishing was bad at both these places. We stayed there a few days & went out shooting almost all day. We then moved on to Sumbal where we got some remarkably good fishing & I caught three two pounders in an hour. The shooting there was not too good. We spend one heavy morning mountain climbing after 'chikoi' but there were very few as it was just the beginning of the season. We hadn't been at Sumbal long before Tuxton developed a raging tooth ache & we had to pack up & get into Srimagar as soon as possible to get it seen to. We have been here a few days now & have been seeing life. Moonlight picnics are all the rage & I have been out two nights running on them, once to Shalimar & once to Vishant Bagh. I have taken some snaps will send you copies if they come out well.

Kashmir is rather like the country at home. Good crops & nice green grass & trees - such a difference after D.J.K. High mountains all round & the old Jhelum flowing down the valley. It is the best place I've seen yet.

With love to Aunts C & F.

Your affectionate grandson

Teddy

I think I wrote last to Daddy about a week ago & since then I have been leading a fairly hectic life. Moonlight picnics are very popular here & I've been out on a couple. There are several very pretty gardens within skikara (small boat) distance & people go out there almost every evening. Old Brown of the 16th was up here & he gave a very good one indeed - a tea & dinner show. There were only six at it - Brown, Tuxton & self with three members of the fair sex! We started off at about 3.00 PM in three shikaras having sent food, gramophone & servants on ahead. We arrived at the Vishant Bagh at about 5.00 PM & we admired the place while they got tea ready. It was very pretty with stacks of flowers whose names I don't know - the fountains were playing as it was Sunday. I took some snaps which I will send you.

As it was growing dark we again mounted our shikaras & went off in the moonlight to the famous Shalimar gardens where the pale hands live! Here we had dinner & danced on the grass. We left for home at about 11.30 & got back about 1.00 AM. It was a good day.

There have been a few dances at the club & Vidous Hotel, music mostly supplied by a gramophone.

We hope to push out shooting again in about a week's time as we still have plenty of cartridges & stores to use up & the gay life begins to get rather fading after a time. I have also been riding a little here on a tonga pony from the bazaar. One can't get better here! There is a rather nice little girl called Miss Kelly who I take out sometimes! I know her brother in the C. J. H. Her tat(?) is one degree worse than mine but we get good fun out of them.

Old Tuxton has gone to Pindi to sell his car & buy a new one. He seems to be rolling in cash! Clemens has also come up & his houseboat is next to mine. He has been left some money & going the splash with motorbikes etc. I Must see about selling or raffling nine when I get back to D.J.K. Grindlay's say they have registered my name for a passage in March. I don't see why I couldn't get away in January if it can be done. I must talk to the Major about it when I get back.

I enclose a snap of self taken on the HB on our way in from Sumbal – bit of a dying duck isn't it! You can just see some men pulling another boat along the bank in the left background. My other snaps are very good & will send you copies next time I write which I hope will be soon!

Must end up now

Your affectionate son

Teddy

Also on my last day in D.J.K my pony rolled on me as polo & nearly spoilt my Kashmir leave. Luckily I escaped with a bruised leg as the whole pony went clean over me. It's rather damp to my ardour for the rest of that day!

October 1920