Penguin Guide to Cooking

New Recipes

Chapter 1 - How to use the recipes

  1. Weights and measures

    With all food purchased in known weights (fats, meats, fish, fruit, vegetables), I have given quantities in ounces or pounds followed by grams or kilograms in brackets. I believe this will help the housewife who is already familiar with the British system of weighing to adjust to using quantities of food purchased in metric weights. These are not exact equivalents, but practical one for cooking and shopping. For example, if you have been in the habit of using four ounces of fat in a recipe, in metric you will need 125 grams. It can be marked off from a pat of known size sold in grams, in the same way as you have always done with pats sold in ounces. With items such as flour, sugar, cereals and so on, where one normally buys a packet and uses small amounts at a time, I have given the alternative to ounces as spoons or cups. The cup or spoon measures used have the following values:

    1 cup = ½ pint or 10 fluid ounces. (The metric equivalent is 284 millilitres, so a scant 300-ml measure will be the alternative measure in metric.)

    1 tablespoon = 15 millilitres and is the size of a medicinal tablespoon (marked on a medicinal glass).

    1 teaspoon = 5 millilitres and is the size of a medicinal teaspoon.

    The spoons used for testing the original recipes in earlier editions of this book were the old British Standards Institution standard kitchen measuring spoons. Compared with the 15 millilitre tablespoon and the 5 millilitre teaspoon the sizes were 17.7 and 5.9 millilitres respectively. It will be seen from the Table of Weights and Measures that the millilitre is a very tiny measure and I find that using a slightly smaller spoon does not noticeable affect the results when one is using level measures

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  2. How to measure

    Using level measures is the easiest and most accurate way of measuring. Heaped measures are not reliable, as a heaped spoon can hold anything from three to five times as much as a level one, depending on the way it is heaped. The rounded spoon is used by many cooks but I have found this method slow and inaccurate when compared with the level measure. In the time taken to measure a rounded spoon (as much above the bowl as below) several level spoons can be measured with greater accuracy.

    A level spoon is one in which the contents are levelled off to the rim of the spoon by running the straight edge of a knife along the top. To measure fractions of spoons use the small measures provided in measuring sets.

    A level cup of dry ingredients is measured by spooning the ingredients in lightly to heap it a little and then levelling off with the straight edge of a knife. If the ingredients are packed by dipping the cup into the bag or tin, or be shaking down, the measure will not be the same as indicated in the recipes. Fats, syrup and jam should be well packed.

    To measure fats easily, mark the pat when you buy it making half, quarter and smaller markings. You will then be able to see how much to cut off for the various weights needed in the recipes

  3. American measures

  4. 1 USA cup8 fl. oz.227 ml.
    1 USA tablespoon½ fl. oz.14 ml.
    1 USA teaspoon1/6 fl. oz.5 ml.
    1 USA pint16 fl. oz.

  5. How to weigh

  6. When using scales with loose weights, place the required weight in the centre of one pan of the scales and the food in the other. When the correct weight is in, the pans should see-saw up and down and not be down permanently on one side. To weigh sticky things like syrup and fat, sprinkle the pan lightly with a little flour before putting in the food

  7. Table of weights and measures

  8. British
    1 pound16 ounces
    1 pint20 fluid ounces
    ¼ pint1 gill or 10 tablespoons
    ⅛ pint½ gill or 5 tablespoons
    1 gallon4 quarts or 8 pints

    Metric
    1 kilogram1000 grams
    1 litre1000 millilitres
    1 metre100 centimetres

    Conversion table
    1 ounce28.35 grams
    1 pound453.6 grams
    1 fluid ounce28.41 millilitres
    1 pint568.2 millilitres
    1 inch2.54 centimetres

  9. Abbreviations used in the recipes

  10. tsp.teaspoon
    Tbs.tablespoon
    c.cup
    pt.pint
    qt.quart
    lb.pound
    oz.ounce
    S.R.self-raising
    temp.temperature
    g.gram
    kg.kilogram
    cm.centimetre
    dl.decilitre
    ml.millilitre

  11. How to follow a recipe

    • Assemble the ingredients you require, checking them carefully with the recipe. Unless you are an experienced cook, it is not wise to omit ingredients, substitute others or alter the quantities.
    • Assemble all the mixing and cooking utensils you will need.
    • Do as much preparation as possible before starting the actual cooking - for example, measure out the ingredients, peel and chop vegetables, grease cake-tins etc.
    • If the oven is to be used, be sure it is heated in time and that the oven racks are in the correct positions.
    • Most recipes for four can be halved, or the amounts can be increased by half as much again for six, or doubled for eight. It is important to remember that for sauces and milk puddings which are to be boiled, the amount of evaporation will be proportionately greater with a small amount and the mixture will be thicker. Conversely with double the recipe a little more thickening or less liquid may be needed. When the quantities of cake mixtures are altered, the size of the tins and the cooking times will need altering too.
  12. Shopping suggestions

  13. Keep a pad and pencil in the kitchen to make a note when any supplies are nearly finished. This, plus a manu plan for at least a week, will help to reduce the number of times you need to shop. If you have the facilities for long storage (a good-sized store cupboard, refrigerator and freezer), you can obviously buy in larger quantities less frequently than with more modest storage facilities.

    The following list shows the average storage life for foods under different conditions. This enables you to see where you, personally, can safely shop ahead. You will find more information on the storage of foods in each chapter under General Information.

    Foods suitable for storage in a dry kitchen cupboard:

    DRY STORES, e.g. flour, sugar, packet foods, canned and bottled fruits, in in airtight containers or unopened packets, will keep for many weeks

    BISCUITS in unopened packets or airtight containers, several weeks

    BREAD, BUNS AND ROLLS in polythene bags or airtight containers, 3-4 days; in the freezer, a month.

    CAKES in an airtight wrapper or container, a week or more depending on variety; in freezer, a month or more.

    Food needing cool or cold storage (approx. 40° F or 5° C)

    CHEESE: hard or boxed cheese will keep in a cupboard for up to a week, 2-4 weeks in a polythene wrapper in the refrigerator; soft and cream cheese will keep a week in the refrigerator.

    EGGS will keep several days in a cupboard, 2 weeks in a refrigerator.

    FATS (butter, margarine, lard, etc.), several weeks in the refrigerator, a month or more in the freezer.

    FRUIT: soft fruit 1-3 days in the refrigerator, a year in the freezer; other fruit a week or more in a cool room, several weeks in the refrigerator, a year in the freezer.

    MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY: sausages, 3 days in refrigerator, a month in the freezer; sliced bacon, a week in the refrigerator; cooked meats and pies 24 hours in the refrigerator, home-cooked, 1-3 days; fresh meat, 2-5 days in the refrigerator, a month or more in the freezer.

    MILK AND CREAM, 3-5 days in the refrigerator.

    VEGETABLES: green vegetables up to a week in the refrigerator; root vegetables in a cool dark store, or in the refrigerator, for several weeks.

  14. Quantities of food to buy for average portions

  15. FishAmount per person
    Crabs1 small
    Cutlets½ lb. (250 g.)
    Filets6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Fish, whole½-¾ lb. (250 g.)
    Lobster½-¾ lb. (250 g.)
    Mussels1 pt. (½ l.)
    Prawns½ pt. (¼ l.)
    Fruit for cooking4-8 oz. (125-250 g.)
    Meat (see also No. 322)4-8 oz. (125-250 g.)
    Cooked2-3 oz. (50 g.)
    With bone½-¾ lb. (250 g.)
    Without bone4-6 oz. (125 g.)
    Vegetables
    Artichokes, globe1
    Artichokes, Jerusalem½ lb. (250 g.)
    Asparagus6-8 pieces
    Beans, broad¾-1 lb. (500 g.)
    Beans, dried2-4 oz. (50-125 g.)
    Beans, French or runner6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Beetroot6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Savoy6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Carrots6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Celery½ head
    Celariac6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Chicory4 oz. (125 g.)
    Kale½ lb. (250 g.)
    Kohl Rabi6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Leeks½-¾ lb. (250 g.)
    Marrow½-¾ lb. (250 g.)
    Mushrooms2-4 oz. (50-125 g.)
    Parsnips6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Peas½ lb. (250 g.)
    Peas, dried2-4 oz. (50-125 g.)
    Potatoes½ lb. (250 g.)
    Spinach½ lb. (250 g.)
    Swede and turnips6-8 oz. (250 g.)
    Tomatos4-6 oz. (125 g.)
    Watercress1-2 oz. (25-50 g.)
  16. Quantities of cooked dishes to allow

  17. Amount per person
    Custards¼ pt. milk (125 ml.)
    Jellies¼-⅓ pt. (125 ml.)
    Milk puddings¼-⅓ pt. milk (125 ml.)
    Pastry2 oz. flour (50 g.)
    Sauces⅛-¼ pt. liquid (125 ml.)
    Soups⅓-½ pt. (125 ml.)
    Steamed puddings2 oz. flour (50 g.)
  18. Temperatures

  19. °F°C
    Freezer storage0-18
    Refridgerator40-505-10
    Freezing water320
    Tepid or lukewarm90-10030-35
    Simmering18585
    Boiling212100

    For fat temperatures see No. 149 and for sugar temperatures see No. 660.

    OVEN TEMPERATURES vary a great deal and it is always advisable to follow the instructions provided by the makers. You will find temperatures are given with the individual recipes. These are meant as a guide only and will vary with different ovens.

    The following table will be found a useful guide:
    Electric (°F)(°C) Gas mark
    VERY SLOW OVEN250-275120-140¼-½
    SLOW300-325150-1601-2
    MODERATE350-375180-1903-5
    MODERATELY HOT375-400190-2005-6
    HOT400-425200-2206-7
    VERY HOT450-475230-2508-9

    Chapter 2 - Glossary of cooking terms

  20. Terms used in the recipes

  21. AU GRATIN. A food is prepared au gratin when it is covered in a sauce, then sprinkled with breadcrumbs and dotted with fat, after which it is browned in the oven or under the grill. It is served in the cooking dish and may have cheese mixed with either the sauce or the crumbs.

    BAKING. Any food cooked in the oven may be called baked but the term is most generally used for cakes, pastry, meat, fish and vegetables, cooked in the oven without liquid or with a little fat.

    When learning to use a new oven it is always advisable to follow the instructions provided by the maker.

    With most ovens best results are obtained if only food requiring about the same temperature are cooked together. Dishes should not be crowded too close to one another, or the circulation of hot air will be stopped and baking will be uneven. Baking traus should not fill the oven space completely but should leave room for the heat to circulate.

    BASTING means keeping the surface of the food moist be spooning liquid or melted fat over it at frequent intervals.

    BEATING is vigourous mixing with a wooden spoon or an egg-whisk to make the mixture smooth and beat air into it.

    BLANCHING. One method of blanching is to dip the food in boiling water for a minute and then into cold water. This method is used to remove the skins from fruit, tomatoes, nuts, etc. A second method is used for preparing offal for cooking. The food is put in cold water to cover, brought to the boil, drained and again put in cold water to cover. In some cases the food it cooked a little before draining.

    BLENDING is used to describe the thorough mixing of ingredients, especially mixing flour or starch to a paste with cold liquid. Add liquid gradually, as too much at the beginning causes lumps which are difficult to remove.

    BOILING. This means cooking food in boiling liquid but many foods are called 'boiled' when they are actually cooked below boiling point - that is, 'simmered' or 'poached'. When boiling use only sufficient heat to keep the liquid bubbling gently. Violent boiling wastes fuel and spoils the appearance of the food. It is used only when a liquid is to be 'reduced' or made thicker by evaporation of water, which takes place more quickly with rapid boiling.

    BOUQUET GARNI. This is usually made up of a small sprig of thyme, a small bay leaf and two sprigs of parsley tied together with thread; or their equivalent in dried herbs tied in muslin. It is used for flavouring soups, stock, stews and other savoury dishes.

    BRAISING. See No. 404

    BREADCRUMBS. See No. 876

    BRUSH WITH EGG OR MILK. A pastry brush is used to cover the surface of foods such as scones or pastry with a coating of egg or milk before baking. This improves their appearance. See also 'glaze'.

    CASSEROLE. Any heat-resisting baking dish with a lid may be called a casserole. It is used for cooking all sorts of food in the oven and the food is served in the casserole.

    CEREALS. See No. 612

    COAT. To cover with a thin layer.

    CREAMING. This means beating until the mixture is of the consistency of cream. 'Creamed' fate and sugar are beaten until tey look like whipped cream. 'Creamed' fat is softened and made smooth by beating.

    CROÛTONS. These are small cubes or squares of toasted or fried bread used for garnishing soup and savoury dishes.

    CUT AND FOLD. This method is used for combining two mixtures without beating. One mixture is folded over the other by turning gently with a spoon. The cutting is done by occasionally passing the spoon down through the centre of the mixture. These actions are repeated gently until the ingredients are well mixed.

    DICE are small cubes. The easiest way to dice food is to cut it in thin strips and then cut the strips across to make the dice.

    DISSOLVE. Some foods, such as sugar and salt, 'dissolve' when mixed with a liquid.

    DOT means to cover with small pieces, generally fat.

    DREDGE means to sprinkle lightly. Special containers or 'dredgers' with perforated tops are used for flour or sugar but a tin the lid of which has been pearced with holes will do.

    DRIPPING. Fat from cooked meat, or that rendered down from raw fat, is called dripping. See Nos. 138-9

    DRY INGREDIENTS include flour, sugar, salt, spices and so on, but not fat, liquid, syrup, jam etc.

    FILLET. When a fish is boned the pieces are called fillets, see No. 236.
    With meat the word refers to a special cut, without bone, which is used for frying or grilling, see No. 325

    GARNISH. Trimming or decoration.

    GLAZE. A food is glazed when it is bruched with a liquid to give a shiny surface. Egg and milk glazes are bruched on before cooking; sugar and water is put on 10-15 minutes before cooking is finished. See No. 661. For meat glaze see No 717.

    GRATE. food is grated when it is shaved into small shreds on a grater. There are many different graters, but for general purposes the kinds requires are: fine, for nut-megs and onion juice; medium, for lemon or orange rind, cheese and breadcrumbs; coarse, for vegetables and suet.

    GRILL. Grilled food is cooked by direct red heat. A grill is also useful for browning the tops of savoury dishes and for making toast. For details of grilling consult the index.

    KNEAD. To pummel or work a dough lightly with the knuckles to give a smooth texture.

    MARINADE. A mixture of vinegar, oil and seasoning in which meat is sometimes soaked before cooking. See No. 369.

    MIXING. Combining ingredients by continuous stirring.

    PARBOILING. Boiling for only part of the usual time. Cooking is the finished some other way.

    POACHING. Cooking in liquid below boiling point, see Nos. 189-92, No. 237, No. 589.

    PULSES. Dried peas and beans, lentils and split peas.

    PURÉE. A fine pulp obtained by rubbing cooked food through a sieve or by pulping in an electric liquidiser or blender.

    SCALD. This means to head a liquid to just under boiling point, as with milk, see No. 155, or to pour on boiling water.

    SEAR. To brown or form a coating on the surface of meat by using a fierce heat for a short time.

    SEASONED FLOUR. Flour mixed with salt and pepper and used for dusting meat and fish before cooking. Mix 1 level Tbs. salt and ¾ level tsp. pepper and 1 c. flour. Keep in a dredger ready to use.

    SEASONING. Generally salt and pepper but may include other seasonings.

    SIFT. Pass through a sieve or flour sifter to remove lumps and mix the ingredients well, at the same time aerating the mixture.

    SIMMER. Cook below boiling point - about 185°F (85°C). Only an occasional bubble or agitation appears on the surface of the liquid.

    SKEWER. A metal or wooden pin used for fastening food together, as in trussing poultry.

    TEPID. Just warm to the finger. A mixture of two parts of cold water and one part of boiling water gives about the right heat, 80°F (30°C).

    WHIPPING. The same as beating but generally used for cream and eggs.

  22. French cooking terms

  23. ANGLAISE or À L'ANGLAISE means to cook plainly in water or to coat in egg and breadcrumbs before frying.

    Au BEURRE NOIR means with brown butter sauce, see No. 111.

    AU FROMAGE means with cheese

    AU GRATIN, see No 12.

    BAIN-MARIE is a container of hot water in which other containers are stood to keep hot, e.g. sauces.

    BEIGNETS are fritters

    BLANQUETTE is a stew of white meat which starts with a roux sauce and then the meat and vegetables are cooked in it. Cream or egg is added to the sauce before serving

    BOUQUET GARNI, see No. 12

    BROCHETTES are small pieces of meat shredded on skewers and grilled, similar to lamb shashlik, see No. 372.

    CIVET DE LIÈVRE is similar to jugged hare, see No. 351.

    COLBERT or À LA COLBERT means served with a sauce similar to parsley butter, No. 123.

    COMPÔTE or EN COMPÔTE means stewed, generally fruit, see No. 589.

    CONDÉ or À LA CONDÉ means served with sweet rice cooked in milk, see No. 642.

    CONSOMMÉ is a clear meat stock.

    CÔTELETTE is a cutlet or chop.

    COURT-BOUILLON is a mixture of water, vegetables, seasoning and wine or vinegar, used for boiling fish, see No. 237.

    CRÈME DE MENTHE is a peppermint flavouring see No. 705.

    CUIT AU BEURRE means cooked with butter

    DORÉ is a special method of cooking fish, see No. 263.

    ESCALOPE is a very thin slice of meat, most often a slice of veal from the top of the leg, see No. 384.

    FLORENTINE or À LA FLORENTINE means cooked or served with spinach

    FRICASSÉE is like a blanquette but the meat is fried before being put in the sauce to cook. In English cooking the word is often used for a dish in which cooked meat is reheated in a sauce and then served with bacon rolls, see No. 423

    FRIT is fried, generally in deep fat.

    HACHI means minced.

    JARDINIÈRE means a garnish of several different kinds of cooked vegetables, arranged in separate heaps, see No. 412, or cooked together, see No. 438.

    LYONNAISE means cooked with onions, see No. 466.

    MACÉDOINE is a mixture of fruit or vegetables, see No. 437.

    MARINADE, see No. 12.

    MEUNIÈRE or A LA MEUNIÈRE is a special way of cooking fish, see No. 263 and No. 267.

    MIREPOIX is a mixture of chopped vegetables with ham or bacon and herbs, used for flavouring meat or poultry during cooking.

    MORNAY is with a cheese sauce, see No. 190.

    PARMENTIER means cooked with potatoes as part of the dish.

    PORTUGAISE or À LA PORTUGAISE means cooked or served with tomatoes.

    POT AU FEU is boiled beef with vegetables. The stock is used for soup.

    PURÉE or EN PURÉE means rubbed through a sieve to make a pulp.

    RAGOÛT is similar to a stew but the liquid is made into a sauce by the Roux method and the other ingredients are then added and cooked in the sauce.

    ROBE DE CHAMBRE or EN ROBE DE CHAMBRE means in the skin or without peeling.

    RÔTI means roasted.

    ROUX is a mixture of melted fat and flour which forms the basis of most sauces, see No. 69.

    SAUTÉ means fried in shallow fat, see No. 148.

    TOURNEDOS is a special piece of steak for frying or grilling, see No. 368

    VINAIGRETTE is a mixture of oil, vinegar and seasoning, see No. 119.

    VOL-AU-VENT is a puff pastry case, see No. 810.

    Chapter 3 - Seasoning and serving

  24. The use of seasoning and flavourings

  25. Good cooking is not necessarily achieved by the preparation of expensive and elaborate dishes but is built on a foundation of simple dishes perfectly cooked, seasoned and served. Many cooks either leave flavouring out of all dishes, in which case their cooking is dull and tasteless, or they overdo it and drown the natural flavour of the food. The art of good seasoning is to use enough to improve the flavour of the food, not to mask it. There are some exceptions to this general rule - for example curries and goulash; but even here the effect is obtained by a clever blending of many different flavourings.

    Seasonings have no real food value but they have an important part to play in good nutrition. They make food more appertising, causing the digestive juices to flow freely and to digest the food properly, so that the body obtains the full value of it.

    It is advisable to buy only small quantities of spices and flavourings at a time, as they become stale with keeping. Always store them in airtight jars. If you have a garden or window box you will be able to grow fresh herbs of all kinds; but if not, small amounts of dried herbs may be used in most cases instead of fresh.

    The following is a list of the flavourings and seasonings mentioned in the recipes. Suggestions for using different herbs will be found in chapter 12, Vegetables.

    Bay leavesCelery salt and seed
    CapersChillies
    Cayenne pepperChives
    CinnamonNutmeg
    ClovesOnions
    Curry powderOrange rind and juice
    Flavouring essences, variousPaprika pepper
    GarlicParsley
    GingerPepper
    Horse-radishSage
    Lemon-rind and juiceSalt
    MaceSugar
    MarjoramThyme
    MintVinegar (wine,cider or malt)
    Mustard

  26. Serving and garnishes

  27. Many otherwise excellent dishes are spoilt be being badly served, the plates cold when they should be hot, food thrown or tipped onto the dishes, instead of being attractively arranged and so on.

    On the other hand many dishes are spoilt because the cook has devoted the time that should have been spent in preparation and cooking to over-decorating and ornamenting the dish. This is one of the most common failings of cooks who persuade themselves that it a dish is well docorated or 'finished', to use the technical term, it must be superior. The first-class cook is one who had learnt to prepare food perfectly, to flavour it with imagination and discretion, and to serve it simply, yet in an eye-appealing and appetising manner.

  28. Suggestions for serving

  29. For hot food always have well-heated dishes and make sure the food is hot when it comes to the table. Too much time spent decorating hot dishes generally means they are cold by the time they are served. Good effects can be obtained by using colour - serving in coloured dishes or with vegetables of contrasting colours. Many a dish can be improved by serving the meat on a big platter with coloured vegetables round it, instead of in their separate vegetable dishes.

    Try to avoid serving white or pale foods in plain white dishes. Make white foods attractive by sprinkling on a little paprika pepper, chopped parsley or other herbs and for sweet dishes decorate with coloured jam or fruit.

    With most of the recipes in this book I have suggested ways of serving the dish to make it attractive and sauces and other accompaniments to go with it.

    Chapter 4 - Kitchen Equipment

  30. Equipment for preparing simple meals

  31. 2 small stew pans1 chopping knife
    2 large stew pans1 vegetable knife
    1 frying pan1 palette knife
    1 kettle1 knife sharpner
    1 roasting pan (usually supplied with cooker)1 cook's fork
    2 pie dishes1 pair kitchen scissors
    2 casseroles with lids1 can opener
    4 basins, assorted sizes1 corkscrew
    1 pair kitchen scales and/or kitchen measures1 grater
    1 set measuring spoons1 chopping board
    1 round strainer1 potato masher or ricer
    1 colanderSalt and pepper shakers or grinders
    2 wooden spoons or stirrers1 saucepan cleaner - nylon or steel wool pads
    1 perforated spoon1 refuse bin with lid
    1 fish sliceKitchen cloths, oven cloths, swabs, nylon brushes
    1 basting spoon
    1 ladle
  32. Equipment for cake and pastry making and for elaborate cooking

  33. 3 round cake tins, assorted sizes1 oblong or square cake tin
    2 sandwich tins1 loaf tin
    1 flan ring1 Swiss roll tin
    1 set bun tins2 baking trays
    1 wire egg whisk1 set piping tubes and bag
    1 pastry brush1 steamer
    1 wire cake cooler1 omelet pan
    1 set biscuit cutters, fluted1 ring or border mould
    1 set biscuit cutters, plain1 jelly mould
    1 biscuit forcer1 pie plate
    1 rolling pin4-6 individual pudding moulds
    1 flour and/or sugar drencher1 pie funnel
    1 double boiler1 sugar or fat thermometer
    1 frying basket
  34. Useful labour-saving equipment

  35. 1 potato peeler1 coffee maker
    1 grapefruit knife1 electric coffee grinder
    1 boning knife1 hand-operated or electric shredder
    1 apple corer1 hand-held electric beater
    1 garlic press1 electric blender
    1 egg slicer1 electric mincer
    1 lemon squeezer or juice extractor

    The electric equipment already listed is the most useful to have but there are many others available as individual items or as attachments for a larger mixer.

    Wooden stirrers

    Grater

    Sieve

    Fish slice

    Apple corer

    Icing bag

    Perforated spoon

    Pie funnel

  36. Choice of kitchen utensils

  37. Having the right utensils of good quality can make the difference between success or failure and it most certainly does make a difference to the amount of time and labour involved. Other craftsmen who handle tools - such as carpenters, builders, engineers etc. - all know it is difficult to obtain good results with shoddy and inadequate equipment. It is just the same with cooking. When buying new equipment it is, therefore, important to know how to choose wisely and I hope the following tips will help the inexperienced.

  38. Saucepans

  39. No matter what kind of cooker you use, it is important to have good, thick pans. Thin pans buckle with the heat, make food stick and burn and are an endless source of worry and hard-work. Aluminium or stainless steel are the most hard-wearing. If enamel pans are preferred they should be very good quality, as poor enamel soon chips. Good pans have well-fitting lids and insulated handles so that they do not become too hot. They should also be smooth in all the joints, without crevices and dents, which are hard to keep clean. Pans which are specially treated to make them non-stick are ideal for easy washing up but it is important to buy ones of good quality and to use them with care.

  40. Frying-pans

  41. It is even more important that these should be thick and heavy. Thin frying-pans soon buckle and food burns in one spot and does not cook in another.

  42. Kitchen knives and cutting tools

  43. Good, sharp knives save endless time, so it is advisable to buy the best you can find and keep them sharp. Cooking with ordinary table-knives is very difficult, as well as being hard on the knives. A potato peeler is useful for many vegetables and once you have the knack of using it, is much faster and better than an ordinary knife.

    Cook's knife

    Chopping knife

    Palette knife

    Vegetable knife

  44. Cake tins, roasting pans and baking trays

  45. Aluminium cake tins with a non-stick surface are the best to use. For small cakes use aluminium bun tins, paper cases or foil cases. If there is no roasting pan provied with your cooker, buy one of good quality aluminium or steel. Baking trays of aluminium with turned-up edges are the best for most ovens and these can also be used for making Swiss rolls.

  46. Pie-dishes and casseroles

  47. These can be of heat-resisting glass or china, enamel, aluminium or steel. The most useful casseroles are those which can be used on top of the stove as well as in the oven and which are sufficiently attractive to be sent to the table. The lids should fit well. Sometimes the lids are suitable for using alone as baking dishes for fish, tomatoes and other similar foods.

  48. Electric cooking utensils

  49. These include power-driven beaters, blenders (or liquidisers), sieves, mincers, potato peelers, juice extractors, shredders, coffee grinders and knife sharpners. Portable frying pans, stew pans and others are useful for table-cooking and to extend the range of your cook-top. Which of these utensils will be really useful to you depends on the kind and range of cooking you do.

    As a beginning I think a good portable electric beater is the most useful. This does all the beating jobs such as creaming fat and sugar, beating eggs, sauces and batters and, being portable it can be used in any mixing bowl and in saucepans on the cooker. It will not mix dough or do heavy jobs like adding flour and fruit to large cakes.

    For other jobs there are either separate machines for particular uses or you can buy a basic mixing machine with the attachments you need. Two or three specialist machines can, however, bet better than one large one which is never fully used.

  50. The care of cooking utensils

    • Always wash and rinse well, as dirty utensils spoil the favour of the food cooked in them. To make cleaning easy put all the utensils to soak as soon as they are finished with. Those use for flour mixtures, fish, egg and milk should be soaked in cold water, as hot tends to make the food stick.
    • If food sticks or burns, soak the dishes well before attempting to clean them. Then use fine steel wool or a nylon pot scraper.
    • Never pour cold liquid into a very hot pan or dish. Either cool the pan or heat the liquid.
    • To obtain a smooth surface on frying-pans, for omelets and pancakes, rub the dry pan with cooking salt and a piece of paper.

    ALUMINIUM. Do not use soda or strong washing powders as these tend to pit the surface, as does failure to dry the pans properly. Fine steel wool is the best thing for cleaning aluminium, or use nylon pads.

    GLASS, EARTHENWARE AND CHINA. If food sticks, soak until it can be removed easily and avoid scratching by scouring. Do not plunge a hot dish into cold water.

    ENAMEL. Avoid scouring as this scratches the enamel. If the pan has burnt, boil salt water in it several times until the burn has softened enough to remove without scratching. Once the surface has been scratched, foods burn more readily. Do not use chipped enamel utensils as small bits are likely to come off into the food. An empty pan should never be put on a hot stove, or the enamel will chip.

    STEEL. Avoid scratching with scourers and always dry well.

    TIN. Avoid harsh scouring which scratches the tin and always dry well to prevent rust. Dry with a cloth and then stand in a warm place.

    WOOD. Scour well and dry thoroughly. Fine steel wool is good for cleaning wood.

    NON-STICK PANS. It is important to follow the maker's instructions for their use and care, otherwise the non-stick coating may be damaged.

  51. Pressure cookers

  52. These are time- and fuel-savers and can be a great help to the busy housewife. There are many different types, each sold with detailed instructions for use. These should be followed carefully.

    Though many people use pressure cookers for cooking vegetables, the greatest saving in time is made with dishes which usually take ¾ hour or longer to cook; for example making soups and stock, boiling beetroot, stewing, braising, boiling meat and cooking dried peas, beans and lentils.

    In a number of such recipes I have indicated the times I use for pressure cooking. These are intended and a guide only and may need adjusting with different cookers. As a general rule the time required in a pressure cooker is ¼-⅓ of that needed for boiling in a saucepan.

    Chapter 5 - Stocks and soups

  53. Food value

  54. Soups range from clear consommeé - a well-flavoured stock with various garnishes to thick Scotch broth and American chowders. In between are the vegetable soups and the very useful cream soups suitable for the first course of a light meal or for a supper dish for the children, being an excellent way of giving them more milk and vegetables.

    The food value of soups depends on the ingredients used. A soup made only of stock has very little food value, but does serve to stimulate the appetite. On the other hand, soups containing milk, cheese, meat or fish and vegetables can be nourishing enough to make a meal in themselves.

  55. General information

  56. The old method of making household stock from meat and bones has been replaced in many modern homes by the use of meat cubes, meat or vegetable extract, bone stock, vegetable stock or canned consommeé. A stock which is suitable for most dishes can be made by using meat or vegetable extract mixed with either vegetable or bone stock. It is important, however, to choose a good extract, as some have such a pronounced flavour that they spoil the flavour of the stock, instead of improving it. There are some excellent extracts on the market and it is worhtwhile spending the extra money to buy one of good quality.

    Stocks and soups do not keep well in hot weather. They will keep for some days in the refrigerator but should be covered to prevent the flavour from mixing with other foods and to prevent evaporation.

    Stock which has been boiled to concentrate it can be frozen in an ice-cube tray and the cubes stored in polythene bags in the freezer. Soups, too, can be stored in the freezer.

    Always taste a soup before serving, to make sure it is well seasoned and serve it hot. If it is a white soup, such as potato, it can be made more attractive by adding small cubes of fried-bread or toast, chopped parsley, paprika pepper or other garnish.

  57. Bone stock

  58. Cooking time 2-3 hours or ¾ hour pressure cooking.

    Use any kind of bones, cooked or uncooked. Put them in a saucepan with cold water to cover. Bring to the boil and skim. For each pint of water add 1 onion, 1 carrot and a bouquet garni, see No. 12. Cover the pan and simmer very slowly or pressure cook. Strain, and, when cold, remove the fat. Add this to your stock of fat for clarifying.

  59. Quickly made stock

  60. Dissolve meat of soup cubes or meat or vegetable extract in boiling water or vegetable water. Generally allow 1 cube or 1 level tsp. extract to ½ pt. water (1 c.) but for extract amounts follow the instructions of the maker.

  61. Vegetable stock

  62. Cooking time 20-30 minutes or 5-10 minutes pressure cooking.

    Use any mixture of vegetables, such as the outside leaves of cabbage, cauliflower stalks, outside celery stalks and leaves, green tops of leeks, watercress stalks, mushroom stalks and peelings and any other vegetables available. Chop or shred them finely and add boiling water to come three-quarters of the way up the vegetables. Add a few bacon rinds, a bouquet garni, a few peppercorms and one or two cloves. Cover and boil or pressure cook. Strain and use.

  63. Fish stock

  64. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Use fish bones, heads, skin and other trimmings. Cover with cold water and for each ½ lb. (250 g.) of trimmings add 1 small onion, 1 clove, ¼ bay leaf and a small sprig of parsley. Cover the pan and boil for 20 minutes. Strain and use for fish soups, or sauces to serve with fish.

  65. Mushroom stock

  66. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Use the stalks and pealings of mushrooms. Wash them well and put in a pan with water to cover. Boil for 10-15 minutes and then strain.

  67. Recipe for mixed vegetable soup

    Cooking time about ¾ hour or 10 minutes pressure cooking.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:
    1 lb. mixed vegetables (500 g.)
    (e.g. 1 onion, 1 carrot, 2 or 3 cabbage leaves, piece of swede or turnip, 1 stalk of celery, 1 small parsnip)
    1 oz. dripping (25 g.)
    2 pt. stock (4 c.)
    2-3 tsp. salt
    Pinch of pepper
    4 Tbs. grated cheese
    Measures level.

    1. Prepare and slice the vegetables. Cabbage should be sliced finely and the cut across in two or three places to give short pieces.
    2. Melt the dripping in a saucepan and add the vegetables. Put on the lid and cook gently for 15 minutes without browning. Shake the pan occasioanlly to prevent sticking.
    3. Add the stock and seasoning and boil gently until the vegetables are tender.
    4. The soup may be served as it is or with the vegetables rubbed through a sieve or put in a blender. Taste for seasoning and serve the cheese separately, to be sprinkled on at the table.
  68. Minestrone

  69. Make in the same way as mixed vegetable soup, No. 36, adding one or two tomatoes or ½ c. tomato joice or purée and ¼ c. spaghetti or broken macaroni with the stock. Serve with cheese.

  70. Artichoke Soup

  71. Cooking time ½-¾ hour or 10 minutes pressure cooking.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:
    1½ lb. Jerusalem artichokes (6 large)1½ pt. vegetable stock (3 c.)
    1 onion½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    1 stalk celery1-2 tsp. salt
    1 oz. fat or dripping (25 g.)
    Measures level.

    Cook in the same way as mixed vegetable soup, No. 36. When cooked rub through a sieve or put in a blender and reheat with milk and seaoning. Taste for seasoning. Serve with chopped parsley sprinkled on, or with croûtons of fried or toasted bread.

  72. Mock oyster Soup

  73. Make in the same way as artichoke soup, No. 38 but use fish stock, No. 34, instead of the vegetable stock.

  74. Leek Soup

  75. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:
    8 oz. leeks (4 small or 2 large)1 tsp. salt
    ½ oz. dripping (1 Tbs.)Pinch of pepper
    2 pt. stock (4 c.)2 oz. breadcrumbs (1 c.)
    1 oz. grated cheese (25 g.)
    Measures level.

    Cook as described for mixed vegetable soup, No. 36, adding the breadcrumbs and cheese just before serving. Taste for seasoning

  76. Lentil Soup

  77. Cooking time 2 hours or ½ hour pressure cooking

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:
    1 oz. dripping (2 Tbs.)Pinch of dried thyme or little chopped savory
    1 carrot, diced1-2 tsp. salt
    1 onion, slicedPinch of pepper
    1 turnip, diced½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    2 pt. stock (4 c.)
    3 or 4 bacon rinds
    8 oz. lentils or split peas (1 c.)
    Measures level.

    Cook in the same way as mixed vegetable soup, No. 36, adding the lentils and flavouring with the stock. Cook gently for 2 hours or until the lentils are tender. Rub through a sieve or put in a blender. Return to the pan and add the milk. Heat, without boiling and taste for seasoning. Serve with croûtons or fried or toasted bread.

  78. Onion Soup

  79. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 oz. onions (4 small)1-2 tsp.salt
    ½ oz. dripping (1 Tbs.)Pinch of pepper
    2 pt. stock (4 c.)4 slices thin toast
    4 Tbs. cheese
    Measures level.

    Cook as described by mixed vegetable soup, No. 36, slicing the onions very thinly. Serve the toast and cheese separately or put a slice of toast sprinkled with cheese in the bottom of the soup plate before pouring in the soup.

  80. Potato and mint Soup

  81. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. potatoes (4 medium)½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    1 oz. margerine (25 g.)1-2 tsp. salt
    1½ pt. water (3 c.)Pinch of pepper
    3-4 sprigs of mint
    Measures level.

    Cook as described by mixed vegetable soup, No. 36, adding the mint with the water. When the potatoes are tender rub through a sieve or put in a blender. Add the milk and reheat. Taste for seasoning.

  82. Potato and watercress Soup

  83. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. potatoes (4 medium)2 oz. chopped watercress (⅔ c.)
    2 oz. leek or onion sliced (1 small)1 pt. water (2 c.)
    2 bacon rinds1-2 tsp. salt
    ½ oz. fat or droppingPinch of pepper
    ½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    Measures level.

    Cook as described by mixed vegetable soup, No. 36, adding the bacon rinds with the potato and the watercress with the water. When the potatoes are tender rub through a sieve or put in a blender and reheat with the milk. Taste for seasoning.

  84. Vichyssoise

  85. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    4 leeks1 pt. chicken stock (2 c.)
    2 oz. butter (50g.)¼ pt. double cream (½ c.)
    3 small potatoes, peeled and dicedChopped chives
    Salt and pepper
    Measures level.

    Use only the white part of the leeks. Cut them in quarters lengthwise and wash well. Drain and chop. Melt the butter in a pan and cook the leeks gently until softened but not brown. Add potatoes, salt and pepper, and water barely to cover. Simmer for 15 minutes. Add the stock and cook until the potatoes are tender. Rub through a sieve or put in a blender.

    When the soup is to be served cold, chill it thoroughly and beat in the cream just before serving. To serve hot, add the cream and re-heat without boiling. Serve sprinkled with chives in season or other green herbs.

  86. Cream of vegetable soup

  87. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 pt. thin sauce No. 69, made with milk (2 c.)Salt and pepper to taste
    ½ pt. vegetable purée, see Nos. 46-53 (1 c.)2 Tbs. chopped parsley or watercress
    Measures level.

    To make the purée, prepare and chop or slice the vegetables and cook them in ½ pt. boiling, salted water or in a pressure cooker, until they are quite tender. Alternatively use canned vegetables. Then rub through a sieve or put in the blender and, if necessary make up to ½ pt. (1 c.) with water or vegetable stock. Return to the pan and heat. Add the hot purée gradually to the hot sauce. Taste for seasoning and serve at once. The soup should be the consistency of thin cream. If it is too thick, add some milk or some vegetable stock. If cream soups are allowed to stand they tend to curdle, so do not combine puree and sauce until just before serving. Have the plates well heated. Sprinkle with parsley or watercress.

  88. Cream of celery soup

  89. Use 3 c. celery cut in half-inch lengths and 1 slice of onion to make the purée for recipe No. 46.

  90. Cream of tomato soup

  91. Use ¾ lb. (375 g.) tomatoes to make the purée for recipe No. 46 or use ½ pt. (1 c.) tomato from bottled or canned tomatoes. Add a pinch of paprika for extra flavour and ½ tsp. sugar.

  92. Cream of pea soup

  93. Soak 6 oz. dried peas (¾ c.) and cook them to make the purée for recipe No. 46. For the way to cook dried peas see No. 550 or use canned peas.

  94. Cream of spinach soup

  95. Use ¾ lb. (375 g.) spinach to make the purée for recipe No. 46.

  96. Cream of carrot soup

  97. Use 1 lb. carrots (4 medium) and slice 1 onion to make the purée for recipe No. 46, or use canned carrots.

  98. Cream of artichoke soup

  99. Use 1 lb. artichokes (4 large) and 1 sliced onion to make the puré for recipe No. 46.

  100. Cream of swede soup

  101. Use 1 lb. (500 g.) of swedes and 1 sliced onion to make the puré for recipe No. 46.

  102. Creamed oyster or mussel soup

  103. Measure the fish and liquid and make 1½ times that amount of thin sauce, No 69, using milk, or part milk and part fish stock, No. 34. Chop the shell fish and add to the hot sauce with their liquid. Season with salt and pepper, a pinch of ground mace and a squeeze of lemon juice. Heat without boiling. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

  104. Chestnut soup

  105. Cooking time 1 hour or 15-20 minutes pressure cooking.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:
    1½ lb. chestnuts (4 doz.)2 tsp. sugar
    1 oz. chopped bacon (25 g.)1 pt. water (2 c.)
    1 large potatoSalt and pepper to taste
    1 large carrotAbout 1 pt. hot stock (2 c.)
    1 bay leafCroûtons of fried bread
    Measures level.

    Cut the tops of the chestnuts and bake them in the oven or grill them for 20 minutes. Remove the shells and the skins. Slice the vegetables. Put chestnuts, bacon, vegetables, sugar and water in a pan and cook gently until tender - about ¾ hour. Rub through a sieve of put in the blender and add sufficient hot stock to make it the right consistency for serving, or like thin cream. Heat for a minute or two longer and taste for seasoning. Serve with croûtons of fried bread.

  106. Tomato soup (using fresh tomatoes)

  107. Cooking time ½-¾ hour.

    Quantities for 3 helpings:
    1 onion sliced½ tsp. sugar
    1 small carrot, chopped1 tsp. salt
    1 oz. dripping (25 g.)Bouquet garni
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)Pinch of pepper
    1 lb. tomatoes, chopped (½ kg.), or 14 oz. canned (2 c.)1 Tbs. flour
    2 or 3 Tbs. milk
    Measures level.

    Fry the onion and carrot in the dripping, using a saucepan. Add the stock, tomatoes and flavourings. Cook gently until the tomatoes are soft, the run through a sieve. Return to the pan. Mix the flour to a smooth cream with the milk, mix well and return to the pan. Stir until it boils and cook for five minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve.

  108. Mushroom soup

  109. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 oz. mushrooms (250 g.)Salt and pepper
    1½ pt. water or chicken stock (3 c.)4 Tbs. cream
    1 slice onion4 Tbs. milk
    2 oz. butter (50 g.)Nutemeg
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)
    Measures level.

    Chop the mushrooms, including the stalks. Add to the hot stock or water with the chopped onion. Boil gently for 20 minutes and then sieve or put in the blender. Melt the butter and mix in the flour. Cook for a minute of to and then add the mushroom liquid. Stir until boiling and boil for a few minutes. Season to taste, add the milk and cream, and a little lemon juice and grated nutmeg to taste. Serve at once.

  110. Fish chowder

  111. Cooking time ½-¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 oz. fish fillets (250 g.)¾ c. diced carrots
    ½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.)¾ c. diced potatoes
    1 rasher bacon or 2 rinds1 c. milk
    1 small onion, chopped1 tsp. salt
    1½ c. water or fish stock, No 34Pinch of pepper
    Chopped psrsley
    Measures level.

    Cut the fish in small pieces, removing any skin. Chop the bacon and brown in the fact with the onions, using a saucepan. Add the fish stock or water and bring to the boil. Add the carrots and boil until nearly tender. Then add the potatoes and seasoning and cook until tender. Add the fish and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the milk and reheat. Taste for seasoning. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

  112. Mussel soup

  113. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    2 doz. mussels (about 2 pt.)1 clove
    1½ pt. water (3 c.)1 oz. margarine (25 g.)
    1 onion, sliced2 Tbs. flour
    2 or 3 peppercorns½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    Sprig parsleySalt and pepper
    1 bay leafChopped parsley
    Measures level.

    Wash the mussels in several waters, taking care to scrub off the sand. Put in a saucepan with the water, onion and seasonings. Simmer for 15 minutes, when the mussel shells should be opened. Strain through fine muslin, keeping the stock. Remove the mussels from the shells, taking off the small beard under the black tongue. Melt the margarine and add the flour. Stir in the milk and cook for 5 minutes. Add the mussel stock gradually. Season well and, when boiling, add the mussels and serve at once, sprinkled with chopped parsley.

  114. Gaspacho (Spanish cold soup)

  115. Quantities for 4 helpings:
    ¾ pt. canned tomato juice (1½ c.)Pinch of dried garlic
    ½ lb. cucumber (250 g.) peeled and grated coarsely2 Tbs. olive oil
    Pinch of pepper
    2 Tbs. wine vinegar1 Tbs. red wine
    Sprig parsleySalt and pepper
    Sugar and salt to taste
    Chopped parsley
    Measures level.

    Mix all the ingredients together except the parsley. Chill thoroughly in the refrigerator and serve with chopped parsley to garnish.

  116. Bortsch

  117. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    2 medium onions, shredded6 oz. shredded cabbage
    8 oz. raw beetroot,
    peeled and shredded (250 g.)
    2 Tbs. tomato paste
    1 Tbs. sugarSalt and pepper
    1 Tbs. vinegarSour cream or yogurt
    2 pt. beef stock (4 c.)
    Measures level.

    Put onion, beetroot, sugar, vinegar and stock in a pan and boil gently for 20 minutes. Add the cabbage and boil for a further 20 minutes. Add the tomato paste, season to taste and add more stock or water as needed. Cook until the cabbage is tender. Put a spoonful of cream or yogurt in each plate as the soup is served.

  118. Canned consommé

  119. Quantities for 4 helpings: 1½ pt. (3 c.)

    This is suitable for serving in any of the traditional ways for consommé, as well as to replace stock for making soups, sauces and other recipes requiring beef stock.

    When refrigerated for several hours it makes an excellent jellied consomm&eactute; for summer meals.

  120. Consommé julienne

  121. Quantities, as above

    To each qt. (4 c.) of consomm%eacture; add ½c. mixed, cooked vegetables cut into fine strips. Suitable vegetables are carrots, celery, French beans, turnips or swedes. In addition add 1 Tbs. minced or finely chopped leek or onion.

  122. Consommé parmesan

  123. Quantities, as above

    Add 2 level Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese to each pint of hot consommé. Stir until melted. If no Parmesan is available use dry Cheddar instead but add 3 level Tbs. to a pint.

  124. Consommé with egg and sherry

  125. Quantities for 4-6 helpings
    1½ pt. consommé (3 c.)1 Tbs sherry
    4 eggs

    Heat consommé to boiling point, remove from the heat, add unbeaton eggs and sherry and beat well, using a rotary or electric beater. Serve at once in soup cups or bowls.

    1. Curried zucchini soup

      2 Tbsp coconut oil
      1 onion, coarsely chopped
      2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
      1 Tbsp ginger, peeled and grated or chopped
      ½ to 1 jalapeno, seeded and chopped
      1½ tsp sea salt
      2 tsp yellow curry powder
      1 kg zucchini or yellow squash, cut into chunks
      4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
      ¼ cup coriander leaves and stems, roughly chopped
      ¼ cup mint leaves, roughly chopped

      • In a heavy bottomed pot, sauté onion, garlic, ginger and jalapeno in coconut oil, over a medium heat for about 5 mins until tender and fragrant.
      • Add the salt, zucchini and curry powder. Sauté a few minutes more.
      • Add 2 cups of the broth. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the squash is tender, about 5-10 minutes.
      • Add 2 cups of cold broth to the blender along with all the simmered ingredients. (Be so careful as hot liquids tend to burst out in a blender, making an incredible mess, and can burn you- so cover firmly with a kitchen towel.
      • Blend with the lid vented, until smooth. Add fresh mint and coriander, blend until incorporated. We like seeing the green flecks of herbs but your choice on how smooth to blend.
      • Reheat to serve.
      • Garnish with coriander and mint and maybe a blob of cream or creme fraiche.

    Chapter 6 - Sauces

  126. Food value

  127. The chief value of sauces is that they improve the flavour and appearance of other foods. Otherwise their usefulness depends on the choice of ingredients. For example, milk, eggs or cheese ad protein, minerals and vitamins; fat, flour and sugar add calories; while the use of vegetable stock can add vitamins.

    Sauces can be used to turn vegetables and pasta into main dishes suitable for for lunch or supper; for example cauliflower au gratin and macaroni cheese.

  128. General information

  129. The two main methods of making sauces are the 'roux' method and the 'blending' method. I have given each of these in detail followed by a variety of recipes using the method. Once you have learnt the basic methods all the other sauces can be made easily and quickly.

    Most sauces can be made in advance and kept over hot water until required and so you avoid having to attend to them at the last minute. A small double boiler is ideal for this purpose but a good alternative is either to stand the pan in another pan of hot water or put the sauce in a basin over hot water.

    If the roux has been properly cooked, see No. 69, there should be no danger of a skin forming on top; but stir the sauce occasionally just to make sure it will stay smooth.

    To prevent a skin forming on sweet sauces made by the blending method, see No. 95, sprinkle a little sugar over the top.

    If you have a blender there is no need to worry about lumpy sauces or skin on top. Simply put the sauce in the blender for a few seconds and it will become fine and smooth. A good alternative is to beat the sauce with a small wire whisk.

    Ready prepared canned and packet sauces are useful for emergency stores and for saving time. They can be improved by the addition of a little butter, cream, evaporated milk or wine as well as by additional seasoning and fresh herbs. Concentrated canned soups are suitable for replacing sauces in casseroles but need to be used with discretion or they may be too salty and strong in flavour for all tastes and can mask the natural flavour of the other ingredients in the recipe.

    Throughout this book, recipe numbers of appropriate sauces are given in recipes but packet or canned sauces will do as time-savers. If you have a freezer it is worhwhile making double the amount of sauce you require for one recipe and freezing the remainder. Most recipes, except those of the mayonnaise type, are suitable for freezing.

  130. Thickenings used for sauces

  131. The most common thickenings are flour, cornflour, custard powder, arrowroot, potato flour, eggs and vegetable or fruit purées.

    To improve their flavour, all sauces thickned with flour or other starchy foods should be thoroughly cooked. Five minutes is the shortest possible cooking time for flour and cornflour and longer will improve them. After a sauce has thickened you can put it over boiling water to continue cooking. It will then not need watching and stirring in case it should burn and can safely have 10 minutes or longer cooking.

    Arrowroot and potato flour or fécule are the only starch thickenings that are cooked as soon as they thicken.

    The amount of thickening required depends on the kind of sauce and the way it is to be used. Not all flours thicken to the same extent - for example, 1½ Tbs. wholemeal flour, 1 Tbs. white flour and ⅔ Tbs. cornflour or arrowroot are about equal in thickening.

    A THIN OR POURING SAUCE is used for general purposes.

    A THICK OR COATING SAUCE is used when the sauce is intended to coat the food and stay on.

  132. The Roux method of making a sauce

    Cooking time 10 minutes or longer.

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings: (When making only half a recipe use a little less than half the thickening or thin as necessary before serving; a small quantity of sauce is always thicker because there is greater evaporation during cooking.)

    IngredientsThin or pouring sauceThick or coating sauce
    Butter, margarine, fat or oil1 oz. (25 g.)2 oz. (50 g.)
    Flour1 oz. (3 Tbs.)2 oz. (6 Tbs.)
    Liquid (milk, stock or half and half)1 pt. (2 c.)1 pt. (4 c.)

    Measures level

    1. Melt the fat and stir in the flour. Mix well and cook very gently for 1-2 minutes or until it looks mealy for a white sauce or until brown for a brown sauce. This mixture of fat and flour is called a 'roux'.
    2. Add the cold or warm (not hot) liquid and whisk vigourously until the sauce is smooth and boiling. Boil it gently for 5 minutes or cook for 10-20 minutes over boiling water stirring occasionally. If the sauce shows any tendency to be lumpy, either beat it hard with a small wire whisk or put it in the blender for a few seconds. Whisking or blending very much improves the texture and appearance.
    3. If the sauce is to be kept hot for any length of time it must either be put in a double boiler or the saucepan stood in another pan of simmering water; stir occasionally to prevent a skin from forming or run a think layer of melted butter or margarine over the top. Stir this in before serving the sauce.
  133. The one-stage method of making a sauce

  134. This is similar to using a packet sauce mix. The method is suitable for any recipe using the roux method and is specially useful with a blender or liquidiser. Put the flout, liquid and seasoning in the blender and mix. Soft fat or oil may be added too, otherwise melt it in the pan before adding the blended mix. Stir until it boils.

    Without a blender, melt the fat and add the other ingredients, beating with a rotary beater or hand electric mixer until the sauce boils.

  135. Sauce for boiled vegetables

  136. 1 oz. fat (25 g.)Salt and pepper to taste
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)Pinch of nutmeg or mace
    ½ pt. vegetable stock or milkChopped parsley or other green herbs

    Measures level. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69. Optional additions, 2 Tbs cream or 1 egg yolk.

  137. Anchovy sauce (for fish)

  138. 1-2 oz. margarine (25-50 g.)1 pt. liquid (2 c.)
    Pepper to taste
    1-2 oz. flour (3-6 Tbs.)2-3 tsp. anchovy essence.

    Measures level. For the liquid use fish stock or the liquid from boiled fish, or milk. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69, adding the anchovy essence when the sauce is cooked. Add pepper to taste.

  139. Brown sauce (for meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, macaroni)

  140. 2 oz. fat (50 g.)¼ bay leaf
    2 onions, slicedSprig of parsley
    2 small carrots, slicedSalt and pepper to taste
    1 oz, flour (3 Tbs.)Gravy browning (if necessary)
    1 pt. stock

    Measures level. Fry the vegetables and fat in a saucepan until they are lightly browned. Add the flour and cook until light brown. Then add the bay leaf and parsley and finish in the same way as for the Roux method, No. 69. Strain before using and add gravy browning if a darker colour is required. Season to taste.

  141. Caper sauce (for mutton, lamb or herrings)

  142. 2 oz. margarine (50 g.)1½ Tbs. vinegar from the capers
    2 oz. flour (50 g.)Salt and pepper to taste
    1 pt. liquid (2 c.)2 Tbs. chopped capers

    Measures level. For the liquid use begetable stock, fish stock or the liquid from boiling fish or meat. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69, adding the capers and the vinegar when the sauce is cooked. Season to taste.

  143. Cheese sauce (for fish, vegetables, macaroni etc.)

  144. 1-2 oz. margarine (25-50 g.)3-4 oz. grated cheese (75-100 g.)
    1-2 oz. flour (3-6 Tbs.)Pinch of mace or nutmeg
    1 pt. liquid (2 c.)Salt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. For the liquid use begetable stock, fish stock or milk. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69. Add the cheese just before serving and do not allow the sauce to boil afterwards or the cheese will become stringy. Stir until the cheese is melted. Season to taste.

  145. Curry sauce (for eggs, fish, vegetables, meat)

  146. 2 oz. fat (50 g.)1 tomato, chopped
    2 onions, chopped1 tsp. brown sugar
    2 oz. flour (6-7 Tbs.)1 tsp. salt
    2 Tbs. flourRind and juice ½ lemon
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)1 bay leaf
    2 apples, chopped1 Tbs. chutney

    Measures level. Fry the onion in the fat and add the curry powder with the flour, finishing as for the Roux method, No. 69. Add all the other ingredients and cook for 20 minutes. Strain and reheat before serving.

  147. Egg sauce (for fish and poultry)

  148. 1 oz. margarine (25 g.)2-3 hard-boiled eggs
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)Pinch of nutmeg
    1 pt. stock or milk (2 c.)Salt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69. Add the chopped eggs and seasoning when the sauce is cooked

  149. Fennel sauce (for herrings, mackerel and boiled mutton)

  150. 1 oz. margarine (25 g.)Salt and pepper to taste
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)4 Tbs. chopped fennel
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)1 Tbs. sugar
    1½ Tbs. vinegar1 egg yolk

    Measures level. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69. Add the chopped fennel, vinegar, sugar and egg and heat for another minute. Season well.

  151. Gravy

  152. 3 Tbs. drippingSalt and pepper
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)Gravy browning
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)

    Measures level. Remove the roast from the pan and pour off all the dripping except the amount needed for the gravy. Add the flour and proceed as in the Roux method, No. 69, browning the flour slightly. Add gravy browning if a darker colour is required. Season to taste.

  153. Horse-radish sauce (for beef, herrings or mackeral)

  154. 1 oz. margarine (25 g.)1 tsp. sugar
    2 tsp. dry mustard½ c. grated horse-radish or bottled sauce
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)3 Tbs. vinegar
    ½ pt. stock or milk (1 c.)1 tsp. salt

    Measures level. Make by the Roux method, No. 69, adding the mustard with the flour. When the sauce is cooked stir in the salt, sugar, vinegar and horse-radish, which should be finely grated - thisis easiest to do sideways and not across the end of the root. Serve hot or cold.

  155. Shrimp or lobster sauce

  156. 1-2 oz. margarine (25-50 g.)1-2 oz. flour (3-6 Tbs.)
    ½ pt. shelled shrimps or
    chopped lobster meat (1 c.)
    1 pt. fish stock (2 c.)
    2 tsp. anchovy essenceLemon juice
    Cayenne pepper

    Measures level. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69. When the sauce is cooked add the fish and the seasonings to taste.

  157. Mushroom sauce (for meat, poultry, omelets)

  158. 1 pt. brown sauce No. 73 (2 c.) or
    Espagnole sauce, No. 93
    2 doz. small mushrooms

    Measures level. Chop the mushrooms and cook them in the sauce for 5 minutes. For extra flavour the mushroom stalks and peelings should be boiled with the brown sauce before it is strained.

  159. Mussel or oyster sauce (for fish)

  160. 2 oz. margarine (50 g.)Pinch of mace
    2 oz. flour (6 Tbs.)2 dozen mussels or oysters
    1 pt. milk or fish stock (2 c.)1 tsp. anchovy essence
    Salt and pepper to taste1 tsp. lemon juice

    Measures level. Make the sauce according to the Roux method, No. 69. Open the mussels as described in No. 301, or open oysters (No. 305). Either canned oysters or mussels can be used. Add the fish to the sauce with the flavourings. Heat for a minute or two without boiling. Serve hot.

  161. Mustard sauce (for fish)

  162. 2 oz. margarine (50 g.)1 Tbs. dry mustard
    2 oz. flour (6 Tbs.)1 Tbs. vinegar
    1 pt. milk or fish stock (2 c.)Salt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. Make the sauce according to the Roux method, No. 69. Mix the mustard and vinegar together and add to the cooked sauce. Season well.

  163. Onion sauce (for mutton, lamb, tripe, rabbit, chicken, etc.)

  164. 8 oz. chopped onions (250 g.)½ pt. stock or milk (1 c.)
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)Pinch sugar
    1 Tbs flourSalt and pepper to taste
    Pinch of mace or nutmeg

    Measures level. Heat the fat and stew the onions slowly in it until they are soft but not browned. Add the flour and mix well. Add the liquid and stir until it boils and then simmer until the onion is quite tender, 10-15 minutes. Season to taste and either serve as it is or rub through a sieve or put in a blender to make a smooth sauce. Serve hot.

  165. Paprika sauce (for fish, meat, poultry and sausages)

  166. 2 oz. fat (50 g.)2 tsp paprika
    8 oz. chopped onions (4 small)1 pt. stock (2 c.)
    2 oz. flour (6 Tbs.)2 Tbs. vinegar
    Salt to taste

    Measures level. Fry the onions in the fat before adding the paprika and the flour. Then finish by the Roux method, No. 69. Add the vinegar with the stock. Add salt to taste.

  167. Parsley sauce (for fish, meat, sausages, rissoles etc.)

  168. 1-2 oz. margarine (25-50 g.)Salt and pepper
    1-2 oz. flour (3-6 Tbs.)4 Tbs. chopped parsley
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)For fish add 1Tbs lemon juice or vinegar

    Measures level. Make according to the Roux method, No. 69. Add the parsley just before serving and season well.

  169. Sour-sweet onion sauce (for fish, meat, sausages, rissoles etc.)

  170. 2 oz. fat (50 g.)Salt and pepper
    8 oz. onion finely sliced (4 small)2 tsp. sugar
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)2 Tbs. vinegar
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)Gravy browning

    Measures level. Fry the onions in the fat until brown and then finish by the Roux method, No. 69. Add the seasonings and vinegar at the end, and gravy browning if ncessary.

  171. Tomato onion sauce (for poultry and vegetables)

  172. 1 oz. fat (25 g.)½ pt. tomato juice or 2 Tbs. tomato paste made up to ½ pt. with water (1 c.)
    1 onion chopped½ pt. stock
    2 or 3 bacon rinds½ tsp. sugar
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)Salt and pepper to taste
    ½ bay leaf

    Measures level. Fry the onions and the bacon rinds and then add the flour and finish as for the Roux method, No. 69, adding the bay leaf with the stock and tomato. Boil for ½ hour. Strain before using and add the sugar and seasonings to taste.

  173. Bechamel sauce (French white sauce)

  174. 1 pt. milk (2 c.)1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)
    1 shallot or small onion1 oz. cornflour (3 Tbs.)
    Piece of carrotSalt
    1 bay leaf4 Tbs. cream
    10 peppercorns

    Measures level. Heat the milk, vegetables, bay leaf and peppercorns to boiling, remove from heat and leave for 3 minutes to infuse. Strain, allow to cool a little and then finish the sauce by the Roux method, No. 69, adding the cream just before serving.

  175. Velouté sauce (for poultry and vegetables)

  176. 1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)Ground nutmeg or mace to taste.
    1 oz. cornflour (3 Tbs.)Salt and pepper
    1 pt. chicken or veal stock (2 c.)

    Measures level. Make accoriding tothe Roux method, No. 69.

  177. Suprême sauce (for poultry and vegetables)

  178. 1 pt. Velouté saurce, No. 91 (2 c.)¼ pt. single cream (½
    Chicken stock3 egg yolks
    Seasoning

    Measures level. Use chicken stock to make the sauce thinner. Mix egg yolks and cream and add a little of the hot sauce, mix well, return to the pan and stir until the sauce thickens without boiling. Taste for seasoning.

  179. Espagnole sauce (for meat and game)

  180. 2 oz. butter (50 g.)1 oz. cornflour (3 Tbs.)
    2 oz. chopped ham or bacon (50 g.)1 pt. brown stock (2 c.)
    1 medium onion, chopped2 Tbs. tomato paste
    1 small carrot, chopped¼ c. sherry or Madeira
    4 oz. mushrooms, chopped (125 g.)Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Heat the butter and fry the ham or bacon, onion, carrot and mushrooms until they negin to brown. Then finish as with the Roux method, No. 69, adding the tomato paste with the stock. Simmer for 1 hour. Strain. Add the sherry and seasoning just before serving and thin with stock as necessary.

  181. Hollandaise sauce

  182. 3 oz. butter (75 g.)2 Tbs. boiling water
    ½ tsp. flour2 Tbs. lemon juice
    2 egg yolksFew grains cayenne pepper

    Measures level. Cream the butter and the flour. Beat the egg yolks until thick and light and add them to the butter. Gradually mix in the boiling water. Put the sauce over a low heat or in a double boiler or basin over boiling water and stir until the sauce thickens. Add lemon juice and seasoning. The sauce may be made in advance, stored in the refrigerator and re-heated, adding a little hot water if it is too thick. Serve warm.

  183. Blending method for sauces with little or no fat

    This is the method used for most sweet sauces. The thickening is usually cornflour, arrowroot, custard powder or potato flour and sometimes egg as well. Cooking time about 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 4-8 helpings:

    IngredientsThin or pouring sauceMedium or coating sauce
    Cornflour, arrowroot custard powder or potato flour1 Tbs.2 Tbs.
    With egg½ Tbs. cornflour etc. and 1 egg yolk1 Tbs. cornflour etc. and 1-2 egg yolks.
    Liquid (milk, stock or fruit juice)1 pt. (2 c.)1 pt. (4 c.)
    Butter or creamTo tasteTo taste

    Measures level.

    1. Mix the dry ingredients (i.e. thickening, sugar, spices, cocoa etc.) to a smooth paste with a little of the liquid. This is called blending.
    2. Bring the remaining liquid to the boil in a small saucepan and put it into the blended ingredients. Mix well and return to the pan.
    3. Stir until the mixture boils and boil gently for five minutes or longer. If the sauce is put over boiling water it will cook without fear of burning.
    4. To add egg, remove the sauce from the heat, beat the egg to mix and either beat in a little of the sauce or mix the egg with the cream. Add this to the rest of the sauce and heat gently until it thickens. It is better not to allow it to boil again. Butter or cream added without eggs should go in just before serving.
  184. Butterscotch sauce (for steamed or baked puddings and moulds)

  185. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour½ oz. butter (1 Tbs.)
    ¼ tsp. salt4 oz. brown sugar (½ c.)
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)Vanilla essence to taste.

    Measures level. Make the sauce by the blending method, No. 95. Heat the butter and sugar together until liquid. Stir this into the hot sauce and mix until melted. Add vanilla essence to taste and serve hot or cold.

  186. Butterscotch sauce (for steamed or baked puddings, ices and moulds)

  187. 2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)1-2 Tbs. cornflour
    2 Tbs. water¼ tsp. salt
    1 pt. milk (2 c.) Vanilla essence to taste.

    Measures level. Caramalise the sugar and water by boiling together in a small heavy pan until toffee coloured. Dissolve the caramel in the hot milk and make the sauce by the blending method, No. 95. Add vanilla essence to taste. Serve hot or cold. If necessary thin with milk or cream.

  188. Cinnamon or nutmeg sauce (for steamed or baked puddings)

  189. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour½-1 tsp. cinnamon or nutmeg
    ¼ tsp. salt1 pt. milk or water (2 c.)
    2-4 Tbs. sugar

    Measures level. Make according to the blending method, No. 95, adding the spice with the flour. Serve hot.

  190. Chocolate sauce (for steamed or baked puddings, ices, fruit and moulds)

  191. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour3 Tbs. sugar
    ¼ tsp. salt1 pt. milk (2 c.)
    2 Tbs. cocoaVanilla essence to taste

    Measures level. Make according to the blending method, No. 95. Add vanilla essence to taste and serve hot or cold.

  192. Fruit sauce (for puddings and ices)

  193. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour, arrowroot or potato flour1 pt. fruit juice
    1 Tbs lemon juiceSugar to taste

    Measures level. The fruit juice can be bottled, stewed or canned fruit. Make by the blending method, No. 95, adding sugar according to the tartness of the fruit juice and lemon juice to bring out the flavour. Serve hot or cold.

  194. Jam or marmalade sauce (for puddings and ices)

  195. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour4 oz. jam or marmalade (4 Tbs.)
    ½ pt. water (1 c.)2 tsp. lemon juice

    Measures level. Make according to the blending method, No. 95. Add the lemon juice and jam or marmalade, which may be sieved or not according to taste. Serve hot or cold.

  196. Lemon sauce (for puddings and ices)

  197. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour1 pt. water (2 c.)
    4 Tbs. sugar2 lemons, rind and juice

    Measures level. Make according to the blending method, No. 95, adding the grated lemon rind to the water. Add the lemon juice when cooking is finished. Serve hot or cold.

  198. Orange sauce (for puddings and ices)

  199. 1-2 Tbs. cornflour1 pt. water (2 c.)
    4 Tbs. sugar2 oranges, rind and juice
    1 Tbs. marmalade

    Measures level. Make according to the blending method, No. 95, adding the orange rind to the water. Add the orange juice and marmalade when cooking is finished. Serve hot or cold.

  200. Sherry sauce (for steamed puddings)

  201. Add 2-4 Tbs. sherry to custard sauce, No. 105. Serve hot.

  202. Custard sauce (for puddings and fruit)

  203. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)1 Tbs. sugar
    2 eggs or 4 yolksFlavouring to taste

    Measures level. Heat the milk to just below boiling. Beat the eggs and sugar together slightly and pour on the hot milk, stirring well. Cook over boiling water until the custard coats the back of the wooden spoon used for stirring. Stir frequently to keep the custard smooth. Flavour to taste and serve hot or cold.

    N.B Care must be taken to remove from the heat as soon as it is cooked because overcooking causes curdling.

  204. Savoury sauces without fat

  205. Some people are advised to avoid fatty sauces or use very little fat but still want to have savoury sauces. Any of the recipes from Nos. 69-89 may be made by the blending method described in No. 95, except those where the vegetables have to be fried at the beginning.

  206. Syrup or honey sauce (for puddings, fritters, dough-nuts)

  207. Cooking time 1 minute.

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
    8 oz. syrup or honey (½ c.)Rind and juice of 1 lemon or pinch of ground ginger
    ½ pt. water

    Measures level. Heat the syrup or honey and water together in a small saucepan and add the lemon or ginger. Serve hot.

  208. Apple sauce (for pork, game or sausages)

  209. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. cooking apples (500 g.)2 oz. sugar (¼ c.)

    Measures level. Peel, core and slice the apples and cook in a saucepan with just enough water to prevent burning. When cooked to a pulp rub through a sieve, add sugar and re-heat. Serve hot.

  210. Cranberry sauce (for roast turkey)

  211. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    8 oz. cranberries (250 g.)4 oz. sugar (½ c.)
    ¼ pt. water (½ c)

    Measures level. Boil the cranberries and water in a saucepan, crushing them with a spoon during cooking. When quite tender, rub through a sieve. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour into a small mould and leave 12 hours before using. The contents will then turn out like a jelly. If a hot sauce is preferred, use enough hot water to make the purée the desired consistency for serving, like hot apple sauce.

  212. Melba sauce (for ices and fruit)

  213. Quantities for 4 helpings:
    ¾ lb. fresh or frozen raspberries (375 g.)Sugar
    ½ Tbs. cornflour or potato flourLemon juice

    Measures level. Cook the fruit gently without water until it is reduced to a pulp. Sieve. Blend the thickening with a little cold water and add to the fruit. Stir and heat until it boils, when potato flour will be cooked but cornflour should be simmered for 2-3 minutes. Add sugar and lemon to taste. It may be served hot or chilled.

  214. Brown butter sauce

  215. Melt butter in a small saucepan allowing ½-1 oz. (25 g.) per person. Cook it gently until it turns brown. Then add ½ tsp. chopped parsley and ½ tsp. vinegar for each ounce of butter and pur quickly over the food.

  216. French mustard

  217. 3 Tbs. mustard1½ tsp. vinegar, malt or tarragon
    ½ tsp. sugar1½ tsp. oil
    ½ tsp. saltPinch of pepper

    Measures level. Mix the mustard to a very stiff paste with a little cold water. Add the other ingredients and mix well.

  218. Mayonnaise

    Time to make, about 20 minutes

    Quantities for about ¼ pt. (1½ c.)
    2 egg yolksPinch cayenne pepper
    1 tsp. salt1½ Tbs. vinegar
    ½ tsp. mustard½ pt. oil (1 c.)

    Measures level.

    1. Mix the egg yolks with the salt, mustard, pepper and 1 Tbs. vinegar. Beat well with a rotary beater or wire whisk.
    2. Be sure the oil is room temperature and not cold, or the mayonnaise will curdle. While beating hard, add the oil ½ tsp. at a time and make sure it is well blended in before adding more. When a quarter of the oil has been used add 1 Tbs. at a time.
    3. When all the oil is in, add the rest of the vinegar.
    N.B. Great care must be taken to add the oil very gradually, especially at first. Mayonnaise curdles if the oil is added too quickly or if too much oil is used for the amount of egg; or if the oil is too cold. If it does curdle, beat the curdled mayonnaise into another egg yolk. Cover and keep in a col place.
  219. Economical salad dressing

  220. (This uses far less oil than real mayonnaise and is therefore cheaper to make and easier to digest. It may be use in the same way as mayonnaise)

    Quantities for ½-¾ pt. (1-1½ c.)
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)1 egg
    1 tsp. dried mustard½ pt. water (1 c.)
    Few grains cayenne pepper4 Tbs. vinegar
    1 tsp. salt3 Tbs. salad oil
    1 Tbs. sugar

    Measures level. Mix the first six ingredients together and stir in the water gradually. Add the vinegar and cook over boiling water until it thickens and then beat for 5 minutes more. Cool and beat in the oil.

  221. Quick salad dressing

  222. Quantities for 4 helpings
    ½ tsp. dried mustardPinch of sugar
    ½ tsp. salt1 Tbs. lemon juice or ½ Tbs. vinegar
    ¼ pt. evaporated milk (½ c.)4 Tbs. olive oil

    Measures level. Mix the mustard, salt sugar and pepper in a small basin. Add the milk, lemon or vinegar and the oil. Beat until smooth.

  223. Yogurt salad dressing

  224. Quantities for 4 helpings
    1½ Tbs. lemon juice¼ pt. yogurt (1 small carton or ½ c.)
    ¼ tsp. French mustardChopped fresh herbs (optional)
    Pinch of pepper¼ tsp. salt

    Measures level. Mix lemon juice and seasonings and slowly stir in the yogurt and herbs. Mix thoroughly and chill for ½ hour before serving.

  225. Tartare sauce (for fried and grilled fish, meat and salads)

  226. Quantities for 4 helpings
    ½ pt. mayonnaise, No. 113 (1 c.)1 tsp. finely chopped onion
    2 Tbs. chopped gherkins or capers

    Measures level. Mix well.

  227. French dressing (for salads)

  228. Quantities for 1 large bowl (salad for 4-6 helpings)
    1½ Tbs. oilPinch dry mustard
    Pinch pepper½ Tbs. malt or wine vinegar
    ½ tsp. salt

    Measures level. Mix the oil and seasoning and add the vinegar. Stir before using, as the ingredients separate out on standing. If preferred, as large amount can be mixed and kept in a coveered jar. Shake before using.

  229. Vinaigrette sauce (for calf's head, asparagus, artichokes etc.)

  230. Time about 5 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings
    4 Tbs. salad oilSalt and pepper
    2 Tbs. tarragon or malt vinegar½ tsp. made mustard
    1 each of finely chopped gherkin, shallot and parsley

    Measures level. Mix well, and again before serving.

  231. Mint sauce (for roast lamb)

  232. Quantities for 4 helpings
    ¼ c. chopped fresh mint¼ pt. wine or malt vinegar (½ c.)
    1 Tbs. sugar

    Measures level. Mix the ingredients together and allow to stand for 2 hours before using, so that the flavours will be well blended. The min can often be choped more easily if the sugar is sprinkled over it first.

  233. Bread sauce (for poultry and sausages)

  234. Cooking time 25 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings
    1 onion1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)
    4 clovesSalt and pepper
    ½ pt. milk (1 c.)2 oz. breadcrumbs (1 c.)

    Measures level. Slice the onion. Heat the onion, cloves and milk together for about 10 minutes, or until the milk is well flavoured. Strain. Add the breadcrumbs and cook slowly without boiling until the crumbs swell. Add the butter or margarine. Season well and serve hot. The sauce may be kept hot for some time if put over hot water.

  235. Basting sauces for grills

  236. These are brushed over food before and during grilling to keep the surface moist and add flavouring. Sometimes the food is steeped or marinaded in the sauce for several hours before grilling. The sauce ingredients are mixed together and left to stand a while before use. Stir and then sppon or brush over the food.

    Quantities for 4 helpings

    BASIC SAUCE
    1 tsp. dry mustard3 Tbs. oil or melted butter or margarine
    2 tsp. Worcester sauce2 Tbs. vinegar or lemon juice.

    For additional flavour add crushed or dried garlic or garlic salt and chopped or dried herbs.

    WINE SAUCE.
    Use red or white whine, sherry or vermouth. Mix equal quantities of oil and wine with chopped marjoram, thyme or rosemary, garlic and bay leaf. Leave to infuse for several hours before use.

    FOR FISH
    1 Tbs. oil or melted butter¼ tsp. salt
    1-2 tsp. lemon juicePinch pepper

    For flavouring add one of the following: 1 Tbs. minced onion; 1 tsp. made mustard; 1Tbs. chopped olives; 1-2 Tbs. wine; 1 tsp. anchovy essence.

  237. Parsley butter (for grilled fish and meat)

  238. Quantities for 2-4 helpings
    1 oz. butter (25 g.)Salt and pepper
    2 Tbs. chopped parsleyFew drops lemon juice

    Measures level. Work the ingredients well together. Leave to set and then mould into small pats to put on top of the meat or fish before serving.

  239. Watercress butter

  240. Make in the same way as parsley butter but use chopped watercress instead of parsley and onion juice in place of lemon.

  241. Hard sauce (for steamed puddings or cake fillings)

  242. Quantities for 4 helpings
    2 oz. butter (50 g.)½ tsp. vanilla essence or 1 Tbs. sherry or rum
    4 oz. icing sugar (¾ c.) or caster sugar (½ c.)

    Measures level. Cream the ingredients together and flavour to taste. This sauce is served separately. When put on hot puddings it melts and forms a coating.

    CUMBERLAND RUM BUTTER is made in the same way, but using light brown sugar instead of icing sugar, adding nutmeg to taste and flavouring with rum.

    Chapter 7 - Stuffings and Forcemeats

  243. Food value

  244. As most stuffings consist of a basis of either bread, potato or chestnuts with some fat added, they serve the same purpose as potatoes or bread eaten with the meat, that is, to provide calories. The addition of egg to bind the ingredients adds protein, but the quantity is generally small.

  245. General information

  246. Although stuffing is often used to add bulk to small joints of meat, its real purpose is to add flavour and for this reason it should always be very well seasoned. Fresh or dried herbs are used, as well as various spices. Onion juice or fried onion is better than raw onion unless the meat has very long and thorough cooking. Other ingredients used are lemon rind, apple, celery, bacon, sausage meat, prunes, chestnuts, and, with poultry, the cooked giblets. Stuffed meat and fish should be cooked very thoroughly to ensure the destruction of any bacteria introduces from the hands during boning and stuffing.

    Packet stuffings are made from dried crumbs and good brands form a useful standby for an emergency.

    The best stuffings are made from fresh breadcrumbs, see No. 876, although soaked, stale bread may be used instead. The bread is soaked in stock or water until quite soft, then all surplus moisture is squeezed out and the bread mashed until smooth. Sometimes it is heated in a pan to drive off the moisture. Stuffings should be dry enough to keep their shape but not enough to be solid and hard when cooked. The amount of moisture needed depends on the method of cooking. If the mixture is to be formed into balls and cooked separately from the joint it will need to be firmer than when used inside meat or poultry.

    If a blender is available, the bread and onion, cut into small pieces, and the herbs can be processed together. This saves a great deal of preparation time.

  247. Lemon butter stuffing (for poultry and fish)

  248. Quantities for 1 small chicken
    2 oz. melted butter (50 g.)2 Tbs. chopped parsley
    2 oz. breadcrumbs (1 c.)Pinch dried thyme or marjoram
    Grated rind ½ lemonPinch salt and pepper
    ½ Tbs. lemon juice1 small egg

    Measures level. Mix ingredients thoroughly using enough egg to bind.

  249. Chestnut stuffing (for turkey)

  250. Quantities for a 12-14 lb. (5-6 kg.) turkey:
    2 lb. chestnuts (1 kg.)1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    4 oz. butter or dripping (melted)2 tsp. salt
    4 oz. breadcrumbs (2 c.)Pinch of pepper
    1 lb. sausage meatStock to moisten

    Measures level. Shell the nuts as for chestnut soup, No. 55. Barely cover with stock and cook slowly until they are tender and almost dry. Rub them through a sieve and miz with melted fat and other ingredients.

  251. Fish stuffing (for baked fish)

  252. Quantities for a 3-4 lb. (1½-2 kg.) fish:
    3 oz. breadcrumbs (1½ c.)½ tsp. salt
    1 Tbs. chopped parsleyPinch of pepper
    1 tsp. onion juice½ tsp. anchovy essence
    1 Tbs. chopped capersEgg or milk to bind
    ½ oz. butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together.

  253. Mint or watercress stuffing (for lamb or mutton)

  254. Quantities for a shoulder:
    8 oz. breadcrumbs (4 c.)3 Tbs. chopped parsley
    ½ c. chopped mint or 1½ c. chopped watercress1 tsp. salt
    4 Tbs. chopped onionPinch pepper
    3 oz. margarine or dripping (75 g.)

    Measures level. Fry the onion in a little of the fat and mix all the ingredients together.

  255. Prune and apple stuffing (for roast goose)

  256. Quantities for a shoulder:
    1 lb. prunes (500 g.)3 oz. sugar (6 Tbs.)
    2 lb. apples (1 kg.)1 Tbs. water
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)

    Measures level. Soak the prunes and then remove the stones. Peel, core and slice the apples. Place all the ingredients in a pan and cook very gently for 2-3 hours until the mixture is the consistency of jam. Stir frequently.

    ALTERNATIVE RECIPE. Use equal quantities of prunes and dried apple rings. Blanch the prunes by soaking them in boiling water for 5 minutes or by placing them in a moderate oven. Remove the stones. Fill the bird three-quarters full, allowing room for the fruit to swell.

  257. Sage and onion stuffing (for goose, duck or pork)

  258. Quantities for a 1 goose or 2 ducks:
    4 large onions4 oz. breadcrumbs (2 c.)
    10 fresh sage leaves or 1 tsp. dried sage2 tsp. salt
    1 oz. melted butter (25 g.)Pinch of pepper

    Measures level. Peel the onions and boil them for 5 minutes. Dip the sage in the boiling water for a minute. Chop or mince the onions and sage and mix all the ingredients together.

  259. Turkey stuffing

  260. Quantities for a 14-16 lb. (6-7 kg.) turkey:
    2 rashers bacon, chopped¼ tsp. each of nutmeg, thyme and marjoram
    4 oz. melted fat (125 g.)2 tsp. salt
    Liver, heart and gizzardPinch of pepper
    ¼ small clove garlic, chopped2 o3 Tbs. wine vinegar
    1 lb. hot mashed potatoes or canned chestnut purée (2 c.)8 oz. prunes, soaked and chopped
    2 c. breadcrumbsStock from giblets for mixing
    2 Tbs. chopped parsley

    Measures level. Chop the bacon and fry it for a few minutes in a little of the fat with the chopped liver and garlic. The other giblets should be cooked according to No. 332. Chop them finely. Mix all the ingredients together with the rest of the dripping and enough stock to moisten. This tuffing is good either hot or cold and should be a rich plum colour.

  261. Veal forcemeat (for meat, chicken, duckling or fish)

  262. Quantities for 1 chicken:
    2 oz. stale breadcrumbs (1 c.)½ tsp. grated lemon rind
    2 oz. suet (6 Tbs.)Pinch of mace
    Liver, heart and gizzardPinch of pepper
    1 Tbs. chopped parsley½ tsp. salt
    1 tsp. dried thyme or savory1 egg
    Milk to mix

    Measures level. Prepare the bread and grate the suet finely. Mix all the ingredients together. If stuffing is to be used for poultry, add the liver, chopped and fried as in No. 134. Also suitable for forcemeat balls. Roll the mixture in floured hands.

    Chapter 8 - Fats and frying

  263. Food value

  264. Fat is a concentrated form of energy giving twice as many calories per gram as starches and sugars. It is therefore, important in the diets of those who live very active lives as it helps to give energy without bulk. As people become more affluent they tend to eat more fat but there is medical evidence that this is not a wise thing to do and that people leading sedentary lives should be careful not to eat too many fried foods, cream, butter or margarine.

    Other foods that contain fat are meats, bacon, ham, poultry, game, whole milk, cheese, eggs, nuts and oily fish such as herrings and salmon; but by far the greatest amount of fat consumed comes from that used in cooking and for spreading on bread.

    Two very important vitamins are found in some fats ‐ vitamins A and D in butter, margarine, fish-liver oils and oily fish such as herrings and sardines. The only other good source of vitamin D is sunshine, so in winter it is advisable to have liberal amounts of foods containing vitamin D or take regular doses of cod-liver oil or its equivalent. Vitamin D is essential for building and maintaining strong bones and teeth.

  265. Keeping fats

  266. Fats readily pick up other flavours and affected by warmth and light. The should always have a protective cover (foil is ideal) and be kept cool. They will keep several weeks in a cold larder or refrigerator, longer in a freezer. Oil keeps better when it is in either a tin or a coloured bottle and should be kept cool but not refrigerated. Dripping should be kept in a covered jar and if it is to last any length of time, should be clarified (see No. 139), as pieces of food and gravy soon become mouldy and spoil the fat.

  267. Rendering fat

  268. A good supply of clean dripping suitable for all cooking purposes can be obtained by rendering down suet and pieces of fat cut from raw or cooked meat. Rendering is merely heating in some way to melt the fat from the surrounding tissues. Care must be taken to see that it is not overheated in the process or the fat will be spoiled.

    Method 1. Cut the fat in small pieces or mince it, put in a pan in a slow to moderate oven and cook until the fat has melted and only pieces of the brown tissue are left. Strain into a clean basin.

    Method 2. Prepare the fat as before and place in a pan without a lid and with a very little water. Boil until the water has been driven off and then heat very gently until the fat has melted. Strain as before. A safer way of heating is to put the fat in a double boiler. In this case the initial water will not be needed.

  269. Clarifying dripping

    Used dripping is generally full of pieces of food and gravy and this makes it unsuitable for frying or for most cooking purposes. It can be cleaned, or clarified, quite easily. It is a good idea to keep one jar for used dripping and another for clarified dripping. When the used dripping jar is full, clarify it and you can go on using the same fat a number of times.

    1. Put the dripping in a pan without the lid and cover with cold water. If two or three pieces of raw potato are added they will absorb the flavours. Bring to the boil and boil gently for 2 to 3 minutes.
    2. Strain into a clean basin and leave until cold.
    3. Lift the fat off the top of the water and scrape any particles of the bottom of the fat.
    4. This fat is now ready for cakes, pastries and spreads but if it is wanted for keeping or frying, all the water must be evaporated by melting the fat in a pan and heating until it stops bubbling. Pour into a clean, dry jar.
  270. Fats for spreading

  271. Butter and margarine are most people's choice, with good beed dripping to spread on hot toast. Goose dripping can be used for the same purpose and in some countries pork fat or lard is used.

    For economical spreading a fat should be soft, so warm it slightly if it is very cold and beat well. Butter may be made to go much farther by beating in warm link or water, 4 oz. (125 g.) butter taking 2-3 Tbs. of liquid.

  272. Fats for pastry, cakes and puddings

  273. BUTTER. Because of the excellent flavour of all goods baked with butter, it is still considered the ideal fat to use for cakes, pasty and puddings.

    MARGARINE. Suitable for all purposes. A soft margarine (spreading when cold) creams more readily and makes shorter pastry than a firm one. A firm margarine is better for puff pastry.

    LARD. This is the 'shortest' of all fats and in pastry making less need be used than with other fats. It is excellent mixed with butter or margarine. It may be used in cakes, but less is required than when butter or margarine is used and, because lard has a pronounced flavour, it should be used alone only in cakes which have flavouring or spices added.

    DRIPPING. Clarified beef dripping is excellnt for cakes and pastry but mutton dripping is not satifactory, as it is too hard. A mixture of the two fats is very good. Warm the mutton fat and beat in the beef dripping.

    COOKING FATS. These are usually soft fats which cream readily and make good short pastry. They are suitable for cakes, puddings and pastry but are usually flavourless and lack the vitamins A and D found in butter and margarine.

    SUET. When rendering down, suet can be used in the same way as dripping but in its natutal state it is suitable only for suet pastry and certain types of steamed puddings. To prepare suet for pastry remove any skin and grate or chop finely. dredge with flour to prevent the flakes from sticking together. Packet suets have already been grated and mixed with a starchy substance to keep the flakes separate.

    OIL. This is suitable for mixing cakes, pastry and similar foods. 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) oil will replace 2 oz. (50 g.) of other fat. The oil is used to mix the dry ingredients, together with any additional liquid needed to make the cake the right consistency. Hard fripping is very much improved if beaten with a fork to soften it and 2 tsp. of oil to each 4 oz. (½ c.) fat is then beaten in thoroughly.

  274. Fats for frying

  275. The best fats to use for frying are those which have what is known as a high 'smoking temperature' ‐ which means they can be heated to a very high temperature without burning. Oils have the highest smoking temperature and are by far the best for deep-fat frying. Butter is often used for shallow frying because of the flavour it gives the food, and clean dripping or cooking fat is suitable for browning meat or vegetables as the preliminary stage in cooking.

  276. How to fry

  277. Fried foods are probably responsible for more indegestion than any others. The reason for this is that unless the food is very carefully fried it soaks up a lot of fat. Fat forms a coating round the starch and protein in the food and hinders its proper digestion. In addition, fat which has been allowed to smoke contains a substance irritating to the intestine.

    There are two ways of avoiding this danger: first, see that the food is properly coated before frying and second, see that the fat used is very hot and do not try to fry too much at once.

    Of the two methods of frying given, No. 148 and No. 149, deep-fat frying is the best to use but this needs plenty of fat. If deep-fat frying is out of the question, grillling or baking is recommended as being better that the more usual shallow frying, especially for foods which tend to soak up fat.

  278. Coating food for frying

  279. The only foods that can be fried satisfactorily without a coating of some kind are raw meat, raw potatoes, mushrooms, tomatoes, bacon, eggs, fish, sausages, doughnuts, pancakes and fritters.

    The coating must be something that will set hard as soon as it comes in contact with the hot fat, thus preventing fat from soaking through the food inside. Incidentally, it also saves d=fat, for less is used in frying well-coated food.

  280. Flour and milk coating (suitable for shallow frying)

  281. Dry the food and dip it in seasoned flour (see No. 12) then in milk and then coat well in flour a second time.

  282. Egg and breadcrumb coating (suitable for deep or shallow frying)

  283. Dry the food well and dust it with seasoned flour (see No. 12). Then dip it in beaten egg and make sure that the whole surface is evenly covered. A pastry brush is a great help with this. The egg should be beaten up lightly and mxed with 2 Tbs. cold water to each egg. One egg coats eight or more rissoles.

    After coating with egg dip the food in fine fresh or dried breadcrumbs (see No. 876) and pat well to make the crumbs stick. Coarse crumbs should not be used, as they fall off during frying and make the fat dirty. Fresh breadcrumbs give a better colour and flavour to fried foods than the dried. Put the crumbs on a piece of greaseproof paper, place the food in the crumbs and shake well until coated.

  284. Batter coating (suitable for deep frying)

    Use the fritter batter, No. 865. Dip the food in seasoned flour. Use a skewer or fork to hold it and dip it in the batter, which should be thick enough to coat the food evenly. Drain for a moment and then lower into the hot fat.

  285. Shallow or dry frying (or to sauté)

    1. It is difficult to fry with a cheap, thin pan. Buy the thickest and heaviest you can find. It will be a good investment.
    2. Use clean or clarified fat or oil (see No. 139) and it should be free from moisture as water in fat makes it splutter when heated and you will have a greasy mess all over the stove. If the fat has water in it, heat the pan and fat very, very slowly at first, to drive off the water and if you are careful you will manage to do this without any spluttering. There should be enough fat to cover the bottom of the pan.
    3. Heat the fat until a very faint blue haze rises. Then put in the prepared food and cook as directed. For details of different fried foods consult the index. If the food is thick and requires some time to cook though, lower the heat after it has browned on both sides. With thick veal and pork chops it is a good plan to cover the pan with a lid, as the steam helps to make the food tender (see No. 382).
    4. Fat bacon and oily fish such as herrings and sprats may be fried without any fat in the pan, but heat it before adding the food. Overlap rashers of bacon so that only the fat parts touch the pan.
  286. Deep fat frying

    1. A good supply of suitable fat is essential for this method. It is not much good trying to do deep far frying with less than 1½ lb. (750 g.) of fat or 1 pint (½ l) of oil.
    2. Use a deep, heavy pan made of aluminium, iron or steel. A deep pan is essential, as there must be room for the fat to cover the food well and at the same time the pab must not be more than half full.
    3. Some utensil is needed for lifting cooked food out of the pan. There are special frying baskets made for the purpose or you can use a perforated spoon or small strainer. If you are buying a frying basket, choose one a little smaller than the pan, as it will swell on heating. When frying food coated in batter do not put it directly on the hot wires of the basket, or it will stick. Have the basket in the pan and drop the coated food in gently, using a fork or skewer.
    4. Heat the fat slowly to begin with. It will bubble at first, showing that water is being evaporated. When it stops bubbling the heat may be increased until frying temperature is reached. It is quite wrong to say food should be cooked in 'boiling hot fat', as fat does not bubble or boil when it is hot enough for frying. While it is bubbling the temperature is only 212° F (100° C). A candy or fat thermometer can be used for testing the temperature and it is a very useful piece of kitchen equipment to have. If you have no thermometer cut a one inch cube of stale bread and drop it into the fat. The time this takes to brown tells you the temperature of the fat (see table below). Some people recommend looking for a pale blue haze but as different fat produces a haze at different temperatures this is a very rough-and-redy method and will not always give good results.

      TEMPERATURE AND TIME GUIDE FOR FRYING

      FoodTime for
      bread to turn
      light brown
      °F°CCooking
      time
      Choux pastry2 mins32016015 mins.
      Croquettes, fish cakes and rissoles30 secs3902002-3 mins.
      Cutlets,whole or thick pieces of fish, or doughnuts1 min3751905-10 mins.
      Fish fillets, small, thin fish1 min.3751902-3 mins.
      Fritters, uncooked filling1 min.3751902-3 mins.
      Fritters, cooked filling40 secs.3751902-3 mins.
      Potato chips30 secs3902008-10 mins.
      Potato crisps30 secs.3902001 min.
      Whitebait30 secs.3902002 mins.

      N.B. Some fats burn at 400° F so be careful when heating beyond 390° F.

    5. Make sure the food is dry before putting it in the fat. This is to reduce spluttering and bubbling. Do not try to fry too much at once or the temperature will fall and, instead of frying crisp and dry, the food will be flabby and greasy. 1 pint (½ l.) of oil will not take more than 3 fish cakes or a good handful of potato chips. The amount largely depends on the degree of heat you are able to maintain under the pan to keep the fat hot. Food which require 15 minutes cooking should be finished at a lower temperature. The fat should always be re-heated before a fresh lot of food is put in.
    6. Have ready a flat tin covered in crumpled, absorbent paper and place the drained food on this, keeping the pieces apart so that they will stay crisp and keeping them really hot in the oven or warming cupboard.
    7. When frying is finished, let the fat cool and then strain into a clean jar. Provided it is not allowed to burn, the same fat can be used many times and added to as required. If there is any fine sediment on the bottom of the cake of fat scrape it off and put it with other fat to be clarified.
  287. Potato cakes, or rissoles

  288. Frying time 2-3 minutes

    Fat temp. 390° F (200° C)

    Quantities for 8 cakes:
    1 lb. mashed potato (2 c.)¼ tsp. mace or nutmeg
    2 Tbs. milk1 egg
    ½ tsp. saltCrumbs for coating
    Pinch of pepperFat for frying
    2 Tbs. chopped parsley
    1 tsp. onion juice or grated onion

    Measures level. These are easier to make if the potatoes are mashed while still hot and nicer if the potatoes are freshly cooked. Mix with the milk and flavourings and leave until cold. Then mould into required shapes, cylinders, balls or flat cakes and coat with egg and breadcrumbs (see No. 146). Fry in shallow or deep fat or bake with a small knob of fat on each one. They will take about 10 minutes to grill and 15-20 minutes to bake in a hot oven, 450° F (230° C) Mark 8. It will be found that all the mixyures of this kind keep their shape better if they are left to stand for half an hour after coating and before cooking.

    Serve with fried or grilled meat or fish, poached egg or bacon with breakfast.

  289. Meat cakes, or rissoles

  290. ¾ lb. mashed potato (1½ c.)¼ tsp. mace or nutmeg
    3 oz. cooked, minced meat (½ c.)1 tsp. Worcester sauce
    1 tsp. salt, or to tasteCrumbs for coating
    Pinch of pepperFat for frying

    Measures level. Mix and cook as for No. 150. Serve with a brown sauce, No. 73 or tomato sauce No. 89.

  291. Fish cakes

  292. 8 oz. mashed potato (1 c.)1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    8 oz. cooked or canned flaked fish (1 c.)1 tsp. Worcester sauce
    1 tsp. salt, or to taste1 egg
    Pinch of pepperCrumbs for coating
    Pinch of mace or nutmegFat for frying
    1 tsp. onion juice

    Measures level. Mix and cook as for recipe No. 150. Serve with tomato sauce, No. 89 or anchovy sauce, No. 72.

  293. Cheese cakes

  294. ¾ lb. mashed potato (1½ c.)Pinch of ground mace
    4 oz. grated cheese (125 g.)1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    ½ tsp. salt1 egg
    Pinch of pepperCrumbs for coating
    Fat for frying

    Measures level. Mix and cook as for recipe No. 150. Serve with tomato sauce, No. 89 and lettuce salad, No. 563.

    Other recipes for frying are:

    • Fritters, Nos. 865-70
    • Fish, Nos. 263-9
    • Meat, Nos. 378-89
    • Omelets, Nos. 201-13
    • Pancakes, Nos. 859-61

    Chapter 9 - Milk, Cream and Cheese

  295. Food value

  296. MILK is a cheap source of many nutrients, the most important being protein of excellent quality, calcium, and vitamins A, D, riboflavin and thiamine (B1) It is a specially important food for chlidren, expectant and nursing mothers, adolescents, the sick and the aged. Aim to have 1 pint of milk a day for each adult in the family and 1½-2 pints (1 l.) a day for children, adolescents, expectant and nursing mothers. This includes milk used for cooking as well as drinks and need not be fresh bottled milk.

    Canned and dried milks are usually cheaper than fresh milk and are very suitable for most purposes as well as being an emergency store. The canned and dried whole milks contain the same nutrients as fresh milk but the skimmed milks lack fat and vitamins A and D. This loss can be made good by the addition of a little matgarine or butter during cooking.

    CREAM is simply the fat removed when milk is skimmed or separated. It also contains vitamins A and D.

    CHEESE contains all the important nutrients found in milk but is a very concentrated food; 1 pint (½ l.) of milk makes 2 ounces (50 g.) of hard cheese. It is a cheap alternative to meat and fish in main meals, 2 ounces (50 g.) of cheese being equal in protein to 4 ounces (100 g.) of meat. Cottage and soft cheese are less concentrated, while cream cheese has the same nutritive value as cream.

    MILK

  297. Pasteurising and scalding

  298. Milk is an ideal medium for the growth of disease-producing bacteria and care is therefore essential to see that it is kept free from infection.

    Milk for drinking should be heat treated to make sure it is safe. Pasteurised, homogenised, sterilised and Ultra Heat Treated (UHT) milks have all been heated but the grades known as untreated and Untreated Farm Bottled do not have any heat treatment.

    Unpasteurised milk can be scaled in the home to make it safe for drinking. Heat it over boiling water until it reaches a temperature of 162° F (72° C). Keep it at that heat for 15 seconds and then stand the container in cold water to cool the milk quickly.

    If you have no thermometer, heat the milk in an uncovered pan until bubbles begin to appear round the edges. It is possible to do this over boiling water. After heating, pour the milk into a jug which has been scalded by rinsing it out with boiling water. Cool the milk quickly by standing the jug in cold water.

    Keep the scalded milk covered from dust and flies and in a cold place.

  299. Keeping milk fresh

  300. Milk should be kept in as cool a place as possible. If you have no refrigerator or very cold larder, stand the jug or bottle in a basin of cold water with a piece of clean, damp muslin over the top, with the ends in the water. Stand it in a draught to encourage the evaporation of the water, for this keeps the milk cool.

    If milk comes in bottles, it is best to leave it there until you are ready to use it, but wipe the outside of the bottles.

    All jugs and containers for milk should be kept very clean. After ordinary washing with first cold and then hot water, rinse out with boiling water and turn upside down to dry. Do not dry with a cloth as this may introduce germs and undo the good done by scalding.

    Always keep milk covered from dust and flies and, as it absorbs odours readily, keep it away from any food with a strong flavour.

    Do not mix new milk and old unless it is to be used at once and even then, you should be sure the old milk is still quite sweet.

  301. Dried milk

  302. Full-cream dried milk is the best but it does not keep as long as dried skim milk because the fat or cream tends to become rancid, especially after the container has been opened.

    Mix dried milk according to the directions on the container but after mixing, do not try to keep it longer than fresh milk.

    For cakes, puddings and sauces the milk may be mixed dry with the other ingredients and so save trouble of reconstituting.

    Store dried milk in an airtight jar or tin in a cool, dry place, away from foods which have a strong flavour. The time it will keep depends on its age when you bought it.

  303. Evaporated milk

  304. This is full cream or skim milk from which some of the water has been eveporated. To bring it to the consistency of fresh milk, add water according to the directions on the can, generally an equal amount. It can then be used in any recipe requiring fresh milk, except junket. After the can has been opened evaporated milk will not keep any longer than fresh milk.

  305. Condensed milk

  306. This is like evaporated milk but with still more water removed and some sugar added. It should be diluted according to the directions on the can and used for swett sauces and puddings. Because of the sugar, it will keep longer than evaporated milk after the can has been opened.

  307. Sour milk

  308. Milk that has been pasteurised or scalded will not sour, but does eventually go bad. Milk which has not been heated sours because it contains bacteria which feed on the small amounts of sugar in the milk and produce lactic acid. This acid makes the milk clot.

    Sour milk may be used in place of fresh milk for mixing cakes, scones and puddings. The curd alone may be used for cottage cheese. The whey can be used in place of fresh milk for mixing.

    TO SEPARATE THE CURDS AND WHEY. Put the sour milk in a basin and heat it over hot water until the curd separates. Scald a piece of butter muslin in boiling water. Wring out well. Place it in a strainer and pour the sour milk gently into the centre. Gather the ends together into a bag, tie with string and hang the bag over a basin to drip for 24 hours.

    TO MAKE COTTAGE CHEESE. Remove the curd from the bag and mash it with a fork, seasoning well with salt and pepper. A few chopped chives may be added for extra flavour. In some countries cottage cheese seasoned with salt is eaten with jam and hot rolls for breakfast, and very good it is too. Cottage chees may be used for sandwich fillings, see No. 890. It may also be made from fresh milk set with rennet or be warming 1 pt. of fresh milk with the juice of ½ lemon.

    YOGURT. This is milk that has been fermented by the use of heat and different bacteria from those causing ordinary souring. many people claim medicinal properties for yogurt but it is doubtful whether it has any advantages over ordinary milk as a source of nutrients. In cooking, plain or natural yogurt can be used to take the place of sour cream, giving an excellent flavour to the dish without increasing the fat content to the same extent.

  309. Cream

  310. By law single cream must contain not less than 18 per cet butterfat; double cream not less that 48 per cent; canned and sterilised cream not less than 23 per cent; and clotted cream not less that 48 per cent.

    For whipping there should be about 35 per cent fat; too much tenfs to produce a buttery cream, while if the cream is too thin it will not whip at all. Two parts double cream to one part single cream makes a very good mixture. Have the cream as cold as possible, use a rotary mixer and stop beating as soon as it as thick as you want it, being particularly careful as it begins to thicken.

    Reconstituted cream made from butter and milk, using a cream machine, can be whipped after it has been refrigerated for 24 hours.

    Undiluted evaporated milk makes a good substitute for cream in cooking and when chilled and whipped it may be used in place of whipped cream. It whips to a greater volume than cream and less is usually needed.

    Cultured or soured cream is prepared from pasteurised cream with a special culture added to give an acid flavour traditional in many continental recipes. It can be used in sauces, salad dressings and in cooking and can replace double cream in most recipes, though it has a lower fat content. Yogurt is a low-fat alternative to cultured cream in cooking and evaporated milk made acid with lemon juice is another alternative.

    UHF cream with a long shelf life is available as single or double cream cand can be used to replace ordinary fresh cream.

    Cream machine.

  311. Reconstituted cream

  312. Using a cream machine to reconstitute butter and milk to cream can be a real economy as well as providing the means rto have cream at hand whenever you want it. You can work out the saving for yourself. The thin cream recipe makes about ¾ pint (1½ c.) of coffee cream while the thick cream recipe makes ½ pint (1 c.) of whipping cream, both indistinguishable from fresh cream. For soups and savoury sauces margarine can replace butter.

    Thin cream: 4 oz. unsalted butter (125 g.) and ½ pint milk (1 c.)

    Thick cream: 4 oz. unsalted butter (125 g.) and ¼ pint milk (½ c.)

    Warm the butter and milk together until melted. Then cool it a little by pouring it backwards and forwards between the pan and a jug. Then pour it into the cream machine in small lots and pump quickly until it is all through. It is not necessary to screw the nozzle of the machine so tight that it is hard work to do the pumping. A little experience soon shows the right position.

    Stir the cream with a fork and put aside to cool before storing in the refrigerator. After 24 hours the thick cream can be whipped and, provided it is thoroughly whipped, will keep its shape for some hours.

  313. Cream Chantilly (for decorating sweets and serving with fresh fruit or fruit salad)

  314. ½ pt. whipping cream (1 c.)Vanilla or other essence or liqueur
    1 oz. sifted icing sugar (¼ c.)

    Measures level. If the cream is for piping use double cream, otherwise use a mixture of half double cream and half single cream. Whip until the cream is thick but not buttery. Fold in the icing sugar and flavouring.

  315. Milk topping (a low-fat garnish to use in place of cream)

  316. Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 Tbs. cold water3 oz. dried skim milk powder (75 g.)
    1 Tbs. lemon juiceVanilla or other flavouring
    1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Put the water and lemon juice in a bowl and sprinkle in the sugar and milk powder. Beat until thick and light, preferable with a machine. Flavour to taste. Use within half an hour as it tends to become runny after this.

  317. Junket

    Time to set, 20 minutes - ½ hour

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 pt.milk (2 c.)Rennet, junket powder or tablets according to the maker's instructions
    Pinch of saltFlavouring to taste

    Measures level.

    1. Heat the milk until it is just lukewarm (90-100° F or 30-35° C). Fresh milk is best for junket but dried milk may be used if it is mixed a little thicker than usual and if 1½ times the normal amount of rennet is used. Evaporated ot condensed milk is not suitable because heat used in the canning process destroys the power of the milk to clot.
    2. Pour the milk into the serving dish and stir in the salt, sugar and flavouring.
    3. When the sugar is dissolved add the rennet. Leave in a warm place and do not disturb until set.
  318. Chocolate junket

  319. Mix 2 level Tbs. cocoa and 2 Tbs. boiling water. Add to the milk and warm as in No. 165. Use vanilla essence for the flavouring.

  320. Coffee junket

  321. Add 2 tsp coffee or ½-1 Tbs. soluble coffee to the milk. Add vanilla essence for flavouring. Make as for No. 65.

  322. Coloured junkets

  323. For children who are difficult about taking milk puddings it is a good plan to disguise the milk by adding a little vegetable colouring, such as a few drops of cochineal and by flavouring with fruit essence. If the junket is set in a small, individual dish it is made still more attractive to the child.

  324. Jam junket

  325. Spread 2 Tbs. of red jam in the bottom of the dish before pouring in the junket. In this case the rennet should be mixed into the milk first, as the milk should not be disturbed after it has been poured on the jam.

    CHEESE

  326. General information

  327. In the past there has been much confusion over the naming of cheese, especially the use of the terms 'cottage', 'curd' and 'cream' cheese but the labelling of cheeses is now controlled by law.

    The main types are: hard cheeses such as Cheddar and Cheshire and other less hard such as Caerphilly; blue vein cheeses; soft cheeses which have a higher water content and a softer texture; cottage cheese which is softer still and is made from specially prepared pasteurised milk (it may be fat free); curd cheese which is similar to cottage cheese but is made from naturally soured un-pasteurised milk and may be skimmed, whole or with added cream; cream cheese which is made from either single cream and is like a rich curd cheese, or dfrom double cream when it resembles butter in texture; and processed cheese.

    The most useful cheese for cooking are Parmesan, a strong, dry Cheddar or a hard Dutch or Swiss cheese. These can bre grated finely and will blend with other ingredients and give a better flavour. The less hard and processed cheeses can be added to sauces and used for Welsh rarebit if they are first cut into small pieces.

    When cheese is served as a course by itself it is usually eaten with bread, biscuits, toast or rusks according to personal preference. Some use butter, others prefer not to. Some people like to eat pickles with mild cheese; others prefer a little green salad or some watercress, celery, radishes or fruit.

    To keep cheese in a cupboard or larder for short periods, either store it in the box in which it was purchased or put in a loose polythene bag and keep it cool. For longer storage put cheese in a polythene bag and keep it in the refrigerator; but take it out some hours before using it, otherwise it will lack flavour.

    A supply of ready-grated cheese can be stored in a covered jar and will keep some weeks in a refrigerator. If grated cheese is to be stored in an ordinary larder it must be very dry, or the cheese will quickly become mouldy.

    Cheese melts at a fairly low temperature and if made very hot it soon becomes tough, stringy and indigestible. When making cheese dishes for childern care should be taken to cook the cheese very lightly. In some cheese dishes the recipe calls for cooking at a very high temperature to brown the cheese. This should be done as quickly as possible.

  328. Welsh rarebit

  329. Cooking time about minutes.

    Quantities for 3 helpings:
    ½ oz. butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)1 tsp. made mustard or Worcester sauce
    4 oz. grated Cheddar cheese (125 g.)2 Tbs. milk or ale
    3 slices toast

    Measures level. Melt the butter or margarine in a small pan. Mix the other ingredients into the melted fat and cook very gently until smooth and creamy. Spread on hot toast and serve at once or brown under the grill according to taste.

  330. Buck rarebit

  331. Serve a poached egg on top of each portion of Welsh rarebit.

  332. Cheese tart

  333. Temperature 400° F (200° C) Mark 6 for 15 minutes, then 325° F (160° C) mark 2 for ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour4 oz. grated Swiss cheese
    2 eggsPinch grated nutmeg
    ¼ pt. single cream (½ c.)Few grains cayenne pepper

    Measures level. Roll the pastry to line a 7-8 inch (18-20 cm.) flan ring. Put to chill. Beat the eggs and mix in the other ingredients. Pour into the pastry case and bake until the filling is golden brown and set. Serve hot or cold.

  334. Chutneyed cheese

  335. Cooking time 5 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 slices toast2 Tbs. chutney
    Margarine to spread3-4 oz. cheese (4 thin slices)

    Measures level. Spread the toast thinly with margarine. Cut the cheese into wafer-thin slices and place on the toast. Spread with chutney and heat under the grill or in a hot oven, 450° F (230° C) Mark 8, until the cheese melts. Serve hot.

  336. Cheese fondue

  337. Cooking time 5 minutes

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    2 fresh eggs1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)
    2 oz. grated Emmenthal or Gruyère (50 g.)Salt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. Beat the eggs thoroughly and add the butter cut in small pieces and the grated cheese. Season well. Put in a small saucepan and stir over a fairly quick heat until the mixture begins to thicken. It should be thick enough to eat with a fork. Serve in small, hot dishes with bread or toasted handed separately.

  338. Cheese pudding

  339. Cooking time ½-¾ hour

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    3 oz. fresh breadcumbs2 fresh eggs
    1 pt. milk, scaldedPinch of pepper
    4 oz. grated cheese (125 g.)

    Measures level. Soak the breadcrumbs in the milk for a few minutes. Then add the cheese, seasonings and beaten egg yolks. Beat the whites stiffly and fold them into the mixture. Pour into a well-greased baking dish. Bake until risen and set.

  340. Potted cheese spread

  341. Cooking time 5 minutes

    Quantities for about ¼ pt. (½ c.):
    2 Tbs. flour½ tsp. salt
    6 Tbs. water⅛ paprika pepper
    2 oz. grated cheddar cheese (50 g.)1 Tbs. tomato purée or tomato juice
    1 oz. margarine (25 g.)

    Measures level. Mix the flour and water to a smooth cream in a small saucepan and stir until it boils. Cook gently for 3 minutes. Add the cheese, margarine, seasonings and tomato purée. Mix well and keep in small jars. the mixture may be used as a sandwich spread or as a savoury on toast.

  342. Quiche lorraine

  343. Cooking time 1 hour

    Temperature 450° F (230° C) Mark 8 then 375° F (190° C) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    Short pastry, No 807 using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)½ pt. hot milk (1 c.)
    2 eggs2 oz. grated cheese (50 g.)
    ½ tsp. salt3 rashers bacon, grilled
    Pinch of pepper½ oz. butter (1 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Roll the pastry to line a 7-8 inch (18-20 cm) flan ring or sandwich tin. Bake blind, see No. 812. Beat the eggs and seasoning slightly, add the milk and cheese and the chopped, cooked bacon and butter. Pour into the cooked pastry and bake in a moderate oven for 30-40 minutes or until the filling is set. Serve hot or cold.

    For other recipes using cheese see index.

    Chapter 10 - Eggs

  344. Food value and general information

  345. Eggs are nutritionally one of the most valuable foods we have as they contain protein of a very good quality, are a good source of vitamins A and B and also of iron. Two eggs are equivalent in protein value to 4 oz. (125 g.) meat.

    In all recipes given in this book, standard size eggs have been used unless otherwise stated. Average weights for standard eggs are about 2 oz.; large about 2¼ oz.; medium 1¾ oz. and small 1½ oz. Thus a recipe requiring 3 standard eggs can have 4 small ones substituted.

    Ducks' eggs may be used for making cakes and puddings, when one will be equivalent to 1½-2 hens' eggs. Care must be taken to see that they are thoroughly cooked ad they are more likely to be infected with harmful bacteria than hens' eggs and are therefore not suitable for light cooking - e.g. poached and coddled. Other eggs may be hard-boiled and used in salads or used in place of hens' eggs for cakes and puddings.

    A fresh egg is heavy in proportion to its size and becomes lighter with age. It sinks in water, while a stale egg floats. When broken, a frsh egg smells good, the yolk is firm and the white is viscid, while a stale egg will be known by its smell, a yolk that breaks easily and a watery white.

    It is advisable to break each egg separately into a cup or saucer, to make sure it is fresh. Hold the egg over the cup and give it a sharp tap with a knife to break the shell. Put the thumbs into the crack and break the egg apart. If the yolk and white are to be separated, tip the yolk from one half of the shell to the other until all the while has falled into the cup below. Care must be taken not to let any yolk get in with the white or it will not beat up well.

    Eggs set, or 'coagulate', as it is called, at a temperature well below boiling point and when heated above 160° F (70° C) become hard and tough. When adding eggs to a hot sauce ot ro milk for a custard you must be careful to see that the sauce or milk is below boiling point or the eggs may set in small hard bits and 'curdle' the mixture.

  346. Keeping eggs

  347. Because the shells are porous, eggs should be kept away from any food with a strong odour. They will keep a week in a cool larder but otherwise it is safer to keep them in the refrigerator. Egg yolks should be covered with a little cold water, plus a lid and stored in a cold place. Before using them the water can either be poured off or mixed in. Egg whites should be covered and stored in a cold place. Both whole eggs (out of the shell) and egg yolks and whites can be stored in the freezer.

  348. Beating eggs

  349. They should be a room temperature for best results. If you have taken them straight out of the refrigerator, warm the bowl first. An electric beater is the easiest tool to use for beating a number of eggs but for just one a small wire whisk is ideal. Beating will be quicket when the bowl is of such a size and shape that the blades of the beater are at least half covered by egg. Do not beat them in advance as they tend to lose air with standing.

  350. Boiled eggs

    1. Do not use eggs with cracked shells. You can test this by tapping the eggs lightly together when the sound will tell you if one is cracked. Put the eggs in a pan with cold water to cover, bring to the boil, lower the heat and boil gently to prevent cracking. Do not use a lid.
    2. Count the time from boiling point:

      Soft boiled (soft whites, liquid yolks)
      Large 3 minutes, standard 2¾ minutes, medium 2½ minutes.

      Medium boiled (firm whites, soft yolks)
      Large 4½ minutes, standard 4 minutes, medium 3½ minutes.

      Hard boiled (firm whites and yolks)
      Large 8-10 minutes, standard 7 minutes, medium 6 minutes.

      Less time is required for eggs that are not so fresh and for those below average size.

    3. If the eggs have been hard-boiled, crack the shells as soon as they are cooked, plunge them into cold water and leave until quite cold. This helps to prevent the dark ring that sometimes shows around the yolk and which is generally due to overcooking.
  351. Coddled eggs

  352. This is the best way of cooking eggs for children and invalids, as there will be no danger of the white being tough and indigestible.

    Proceed as before but when the water boils turn down the heat and cook below boiling. The time required will be longer e.g. for larger eggs allow:

    Soft boiled, 4 minutes
    Medium boiled, 6-7 minutes
    Hard boiled, 15-20 minutes

  353. Curried eggs

  354. Cooking time ½ hour

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 hard-boiled eggs4-8 oz. rice (½-1 c.)
    ½ pt. curry sauce, No. 76 (1 c.)

    Measures level. Cut the eggs in half and pour the sauce over them. Serve with boiled rice, see No. 613.

  355. Eggs Lyonnaise

  356. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 hard-boiled eggsSalt and pepper
    ½ pt. onion sauce, No. 852 oz. cheese, grated (½ c.)

    Measures level. Slice the eggs and heat them in the sauce. Place in a fireproof dish and cover with the grated cheese. Place in the oven or under the grill to melt the cheese. Serve very hot.

  357. Scotch eggs

  358. Cooking time 7-8 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 eggs, hard-boiled and shelled1 beaten egg
    Seasoned flourFine white breadcrumbs
    8 oz. sausage meat or skinned sausages (250 g.)Oil for frying

    Measures level. Make sure the outside of the eggs are dry and dust them with seasoned flour. Divide the sausage meat into four pieces, flatten each piece and mould it round an egg to coat it evenly and smoothly. Brush with beaten egg and roll it in the crumbs to coat it thoroughly. fry, see No. 149. Do not try to hurry the frying process as it is important to allow time to cook the sausage thoroughly. Drain on absorbent paper and serve hot with a sauce or cold with salad.

  359. Fricassée of eggs

  360. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 hard-boiled eggs4 rashers streaky bacon
    ½ pt. brown sauce, No. 73 (1 c.)1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    Toast

    Measures level. Cut the eggs in half and heat them gently in the sauce. Roll the rashers of bacon and fasten them on a skewer. Grill or bake. Put the eggs and sauce on a hot dish, garnish with the bacon and parsley and serve hot with toast.

  361. Stuffed eggs

    Fresh eggs only should be used, as stale eggs are apt to have the yolk lying to one side and that spoils the shape of a stuffed egg. Hard boil the eggs and allow to become cold. Shell, cut in half and remove the yolks. Mash the yolks and mix with one of the stuffings given below, season highly and then press back into the whites. Serve with a salad or as a savoury for a supper party, or press the halves together for carrying in a picnic basket.

    1. For 4 eggs allow 2 level Tbs. grated cheese, 1 Tbs. vinegar, ¼ level tsp. mustard, salt and pepper and 1 tsp. melted butter or margarine.
    2. For each egg allow 1 level Tbs. minced ham. Season well and add some chopped parsley.
    3. Beat in anchovy essence and a little lemon juice to taste.
    4. Mix with an equal amount of minced, cooked chicken or veal and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add mayonnaise to moisten.
  362. Poached eggs

    1. Place enough water in a frying pan or saucepan to cover the eggs. Bring to the boil.
    2. Break the egg into a saucer and slide it gently into the water. Only fresh eggs should be used for poaching, as it the whites are watery they will spread badly.
    3. Turn down the heat so that the water is just below boiling. Leave 5 minutes or until the egg is lightly set - that is, when the white becomes opaque.
    4. Lift out with a fish slice and rest the slice on a clean cloth for a second to drain off the water. Then slide on to buttered toast. Serve at once.
  363. Eggs mornay

  364. Allow 5(?) pt. (2 Tbs.) cheese sauce, No. 75 ,for each egg or use a packet of sauce.

    Place the very lightly poached eggs on a fireproof dish and cover with the cheese sauce. Brown under the grill.

  365. Poached eggs on anchovy toast

  366. Spread the toast with anchovy sauce, No 72, or paste.
  367. Poached egg with potato cake

  368. Use any of the potato cake recipes, Nos. 150-53 and shape into flat cakes about the size of a poached egg. Fry in shallow fat and serve a poached egg on each one. Cover with tomato sauce, No. 89, or brown sauce, No. 73.
  369. Poached eggs in Aspic

  370. Poach the eggs lightly, drain and trim thrm to a round. Place in cold water to chill them. Trim thin slices of lean ham, allowing two per egg. Arrange hlf of these on a flat dish and put an egg on each. Cover with the second slice of ham. Cover with just-melted Aspic jelly, No 716, or with ready-prepared Aspic jelly, which can be bought from most stores. When firmly set cut out each with a large round cutter the size of the pieces of ham. They may be served plain, or with a green salad. The yolks should be still soft inside.
  371. Steamed eggs or eggs en cocotte

    Special egg steamers are sold for the purpose, also little earthenware dishes called 'cocottes'. Small round patty tins may be used too. Grease the dishes before adding the eggs and then stand them in a frying pan with water coming half-way up the sides. Keep the water just below boiling and cook for the same time as poached eggs. Serve in the same way, or, if cocottes are used, leave the eggs in the dishes and serve toast or bread separately.
  372. Scrambled eggs

  373. Cooking time 5 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 or 5 eggs1 oz. margarine or butter (25 g.)
    ½ tsp. salt4 slices of toast
    Pinch of pepper6 Tbs. milk

    Measures level.

    1. Beat the eggs enough to mix them well and add the milk and seasoning.
    2. Melt the fat in a small saucepan but do not allow it to become hot. Add the eggs and cook over a very low heat or over hot water. Do not stir the eggs more than is necessary to keep them from sticking to the pan because stirring make them granular instead of letting them set in large creamy clots.
    3. Serve as soon as they are set. If allowed to cook longer they will become tough and hard with a water liquid separating out. Serve on the hot toast.
  374. Cheesed eggs

  375. Add 1 oz. grated cheese (25 g.) and 1 Tbs. chopped parsley to scrambled eggs, No. 195, before cooking.
  376. Curried scramble

  377. Use recipe No. 195 for scrambled eggs and fry 1 small chopped onion in the fat. Then add 1 level Tbs. curry powder, mix well and allow to cool a little. Then add the egg and finish in the usual way.
  378. Portuguese eggs

  379. Cut 1 lb. tomatoes in pieces (500 g.) and cook them gently in ½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.). Season well. Scramble eggs as described in No. 195 and dish them in a ring on a hot dish. Pour the tomatoes in the centre and serve hot, sprinkled with chopped parsley.
  380. Scrambled eggs with bacon

  381. Chop one rasher of bacon and fry gently in the fat before adding the eggs. Cook as described for scrambled eggs, No. 195.
  382. Scrambled eggs Lyonnaise

  383. Chop one medium-sized onion finely and fry it in margarine. Add the eggs and proceed as for scrambled eggs, No. 195.
  384. French omelet

    Cooking time 2 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 eggsPinch of pepper
    1 tsp. salt1 0z. butter (25 g.)

    Measures level.

    1. Beat the eggs just enough to mix them thoroughly and add the seasoning.
    2. Be sure that the pan is perfectly clean and dry. The ideal is to keep a pan just for omelets and to wipe it out instead of washing. If yours is a general-purpose pan you will find it a help to heat the pan at first in order to draw off any moisture. A damp pan causes omelets to stick. Heat enough butter to cover the bottom of the pan. It is nicer to make individual omelets but for a family it is more practical to make a large one. This recipe is about right for a pan 10 inches (25 cm.) across and the omelet may then be divided into four for serving.
    3. When the butter begins to brown, pur in the eggs and keep a good heat under the pan to cook the omelet quickly. As soon as the underside begins to set, start lifting the edge first in one place and then in another, tilting the pan slightly to let liquid egg run underneath. The omelet is done when no more liquid will run under but it should still be quite moist on top.
    4. Using a knife, roll the omelet over away from the handle and tip it out on a hot plate. It should be golden brown on the outside and still moist inside, unless you prefer it dry, when you will naturally cook the omelet a little longer. If the omelet is a stuffed one, the filling should be put on before it is rolled up.
  385. Bacon omelet

  386. Add 1 level Tbs. chopped parsley to omelet, No. 201 before cooking and fry one or two rashers of chopped bacon in the fat before adding the eggs. If the bacon is very salty this method may make the omelet stick to the pan, so it is better to cook the bacon separately and mix it with the eggs before pouring them into the omelet pan
  387. Cheese omelet

  388. Mix 2 oz. grated cheese (50 g.) with the eggs before making omelet, No. 201.
  389. Herb omelet

  390. Add 2 level Tbs. chopped parsley and 2 level Tbs. chopped chives to the eggs before cooking omelet, No. 201. If no green herbs are available add 1 tsp. dried herbs instead.
  391. Kidney omelet

  392. Chop 2 sheep's kidneys into small pieces and cook them for a minute or two in a separate pan with ½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.). Add 1 level Tbs. flour, mix well and pour on ¼ c. stock. Stir until it boils and cook gently for 5 minutes. Make the omelet according to No. 201 and spread the kidney mixture on before rolling up.
  393. Mushroom omelet

  394. Peel and chop 4-6 oz. mushrooms (125-175 g.) and cook for a few minutes in the fat before adding the eggs and cooking as for No. 201.
  395. Onion omelet

  396. Peel and cop two small onions finely. Cook in the fat until brown before adding the eggs and cooking as for No. 201.
  397. Sweet omelet

  398. Half recipe No. 201 is enough for 4 helpings. Leave out the salt and pepper and spread on 2 or 3 Tbs. hot jam before rolling it up.
  399. Rum omelet

  400. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    Use half recipe No. 201, leave out the salt and pepper. When the omelet is served sprinkle with 2 tsp. sugar and pour over 2 Tbs. rum. Set light to the rum and baste the omelet with it.

  401. Omelette à la crème

  402. Cooking time 15 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1-2 oz. mushrooms (25-50 g.)1 Tbs thick cream
    1 oz. butter (25 g.) 2 eggs
    ¼ pt. cheese sauce, No. 75 (½ c.)salt and pepper

    Measures level. Wash the mushrooms and chop coarsely. Stew in ½ oz. butter in a small pan until tender. Add the cream to the sauce and keep hot. Make the omelet as in No. 201 adding the mushrooms before cooking. Fold onto a hot, fire-proof dish and put the sauce over. Brown lightly under the grill.

    N.B. This omelet may be made twice of four times the size in a large pan and cut in portions for serving.

  403. Soufflé omelet

    Cooking time 15 minutes

    Quantities for 1 large or 4 small omelets:
    4 fresh eggsPinch of pepper
    ¼ c. water½ oz. melted butter (1 Tbs.)
    ½ tsp. saltChopped parsley

    1. Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs and beat the yolks with the water until thick and lemon-coloured. Add the seasonings.
    2. Beat the egg whites stiffly
    3. Melt the fat in the pan
    4. Fold the egg yolks into the whites very gently and pour into the pan. Cook very slowly for about 5 minutes when the omelet should be golden underneath and beginning to rise up in the pan. If the heat is too great it will rise up quickly and then collapse and be tough.
    5. Continue cooking in a moderate oven or under a slow grill for 8-10 minutes, until the top looks dry. Do not cook too long or it will shrivel and be tough.
    6. Fold in half and turn on to a hot dish. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve at once.

    N.B. For variety this omelet may be served with a sauce poured over - e.g. onion sauce, No. 85; tomato sauce, No. 89; cheese sauce No. 75; mussel sauce No. 83; or mushroom sauce No. 82.

  404. Spanish omelet

  405. Cooking time about 5 minutes

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    3 eggs½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.)
    ½ tsp. salt½ c. mixed vegetables or canned vegetables, diced
    Pinch of pepper1 Tbs. chopped parsley

    Measures level. Beat the eggs. Add seasoning and parsley. Heat the fat and toss the vegetables in it. Any vegetables are suitable and may include some sliced raw tomato or chopped pimentos. Pour the eggs over the vegetables and cook, without stirring until the egg is brown underneath. Place it in the oven or under the grill to set the top lightly. Fold over and serve at once.

  406. Swedish omelet

  407. Cooking time 25-30 minutes

    Temperature 350° F (180 ° C) Mark 3.

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings:
    2 oz. diced bacon (50 g.)½ pt. milk
    2 eggsSalt and pepper

    Measures level. Grease a shallow baking dish. Add the bacon. Beat the eggs and season well. Add the milk and pour over the bacon. Bake in a moderate oven until set. This may be varied by using chopped smoked fish in place of the bacon.

  408. Fried eggs

    Cooking time 2-3 minutes

    1. Heat enough fat to cover the bottom of the frying pan
    2. When it is melted but not very hot, add the eggs which should each be broken separately into a saucer and slid into the fat.
    3. Cook gently - much more slowly than ordinary frying - basting the egg with hot fat until the white is set. Lift out with a fish slice. If the fat is too hot and the cooking too fast, the egg will be tough and unpleasant to eat.
  409. Eggs with brown butter

    Cooking time 3-4 minutes

    Quantities for 2-4 helpings:
    1 oz. butterSalt and pepper
    4 eggs1 Tbs. vinegar

    Heat the butter in a frying-pan until it turns nut-brown. Break in the eggs and season each with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook gently until the whites are firm. Place on a hot dish. Add vinegar to the butter and pour over the eggs.

  410. Custards

  411. The true custard is made from egg, milk and a little flavouring and depends entirely on the eggs to thivken it.

    When making custards, care must be taken to have the proportions of eggs and liquid correct or the custard will not set. Adding too much sugar also prevents setting and cooking too fast or for too long produces curdling.

    It is recommended that hot milk be used as this hastens the cooking process.

    Soft custard or custard sauce.

    See sauces, No. 105.
  412. Baked custard

    Cooking time ¾-1 hour

    Temperature 250-350° F (120-180 ° C) Mark ¼-3.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    2 large or 3 standard eggsPinch of salt
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)Flavouring to taste
    1 Tbs. sugarNutmeg

    Measures level.

    1. Beat the eggs, salt and sugar enough to mix well
    2. Heat the milk. Pour the hot (not boiling) milk on to the eggs and stir well. Add flavouring to taste.
    3. Pour into a greased pie-dish. When using the higher temperature, place the pie dish in a baking tin with hot water to come half-way up the sides of the pie-dish. Sprinkle a little nutmeg on top of the custard.
    4. Bake until set. To test for stting, slip the blade of a knife into the custard half-way between the centre and the side and if it comes aout clean with no custard sticking to it, the baking is finished. The custard may not be quite done in the middle but there will be sufficient heat in it to finish the cooking, and taking it out at this stage prevents over-cooking and curdling.

    The time required depends to some extent on the type of dish used. It will take longer in a narrow, deep dish than in a shallow, wide one. In a pressure cooker allow 4 minutes; reduce pressure slowly.

  413. Caramel custard

  414. User recipe No. 217, omitting the sugar. Boil 2 oz. sugar (4 level Tbs.) and 2 Tbs. water together until coffee coloured. Add the hot milk and stir until dissolved. Then add to the eggs and proceed as usual. Add 1 tsp. vanilla for flavouring.
  415. Caramel mould or crème caramel

    Cooking time 30-45 minutes

    Temperature 250-350° F (120-180 ° C) Mark ¼-3.

    Quantities for 4-6 small moulds:
    4-5 eggsCaramel
    1 Tbs. sugar4 oz. sugar (8 Tbs.)
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)4 Tbs. water
    Vanilla essence

    Measures level.

    1. Individual moulds are the most satifactory to use, as the mould is less likely to break on turning out. The moulds may be metal or earthenware. Grease them well.
    2. Boil the sugar and water without stirring until it goes a good toffee colour. Pour quickly into the moulds. Hold the moulds in a cloth and twist round to coat well with caramel.
    3. Mix the custard as for baked custard, No. 217 and pour into the moulds.
    4. Bake according to No. 217 or place in a saucepan with hot water coming half-way up the side of the moulds. Cover the moulds with greased paper and put a lid on the pan. Cook genntly below boiling until the custard is set.
    5. It is advisable to leave the custards in the moulds to cool. They will then turn out more easily and the caramel will coat the mould. It turned out hot there is a tendency for some of the caramel to stay in the mould.

    N.B. An eggless mould may be made using recipe No. 645 for a cornflour mould. Pour into the caramel-lined and leave to set overnight.

  416. Coffee mould

  417. Flavour the milk with coffee essence or strong black coffee and make recipe No. 219 leaving out the caramel. Turn out and decorate with whipped cream and chopped milk.
  418. Orange baked custard

  419. Cooking time 1-1½ hours

    Temperature 250-350° F (120-180 ° C) Mark ½-4.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    3 eggsFine light brown sugar
    Pinch of saltSmall tin mandarin oranges or 2 fresh oranges
    1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)1 pt. hot milk (2 c.)
    Grated rind 1 orange

    Measures level. Beat the eggs, salt and sugar slightly. Add the hot milk and the orange rind. Pour into a pie dish, 1½-2-pint size (1 L.) and bake (see No. 217) until set. Sprinkle the top thickly with brown sugar and place under the grill to melt the sugar. Arrange overlapping slices of mandarins or oranges on top and leave to become cold. Serve plain or with cream.

  420. Soufflés

  421. Cooking time: large ones: frac12;-¾ hours; small ones 15-20 minutes

    Temperature 375° F (190 ° C) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)3 eggs or 3 yolks and 4 whites
    1 oz. plain flour (3 Tbs.)Flavouring see Nos. 223-8
    ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)

    Measures level. Grease a 2-pint (1 L.) soufflé dish or 4-5 small ones. Use the fat, flour and milk to make a sauce by the Roux method, No. 69. Add the egg yolks beaten with 1 Tbs. cold water and the flavouring. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites and pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Bake until the soufflé is risen and brown. It should still be soft inside and should be served at once or it will begin to shrink as it cools. Serve in the soufflé dish with the sauce handed separately.

  422. Cheese soufflé

  423. Add 3 oz. finely grated cheese (75 g.), preferably Parmesan, and a pinch of salt, nutmeg, mustard and cayenne pepper.
  424. Fish soufflé

  425. Add 4-6 oz. (125-175 g.) finely flaked cooked fish to the sauce. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and 1 Tbs. lemon juice. To make a smoother soufflé, the fish can be rubbed through a sieve before adding the egg whites. Coat the soufflé with parsley sauce, No. 87 or anchovy sauce, No. 72.
  426. Chocolate soufflé

  427. Dissolve 1 oz. (25 g.) grated chocolate in milk before making the sauce. Add 1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.), a pinch of salt and 1 tsp. vanilla essence. Serve with chocolate sauce, No. 99, flavoured with a little rum.
  428. Vanilla soufflé

  429. Add 2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.), a pinch of salt and 1 tsp. vanilla. Serve with jam sauce, No. 101, or custard sauce, No. 105.
  430. Lemon soufflé

  431. Add a pinch of salt, the finely grated rind of 1 lemon and 2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.). Serve with sliced fresh a purée of fresh raspberries, see No. 602 or melba sauce, No. 110.
  432. Strawberry soufflé

  433. Add a pinch of salt, 5 Tbs. strawberry purée (see No. 602) and 2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.). Serve with sliced fresh strawberries with caster sugar and chilled.
  434. Zabaglione

  435. Cooking time about 10 minutes

    Quantities for 4-6 glasses:
    3 egg yolks¼ pt. Marsala, Madeira or Sherry (½ c.)
    1½ oz. sugar (3 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Put the egg yolks and the sugar in a quart-sized pudding-basin. Beat with a rotary egg whisk until thick and light. Add the wine and mix well. Place the basin over a pan of boiling water and continue beating until the mixture has risen well and is thick. Pour into individual glasses and serve hot or cold with small macaroons.

  436. Chocolate mousse

  437. Cooking time 10 minutes

    Quantities for 4-6 glasses:
    4 oz. chocolate (125 g.)Vanilla essence to taste or 1 Tbs. rum or brandy
    3 Tbs. water4 eggs

    Measures level. Melt the chocolate in a pan over hot water or a very gentle heat. Add the water and miz well. Add the egg yolks, beaten with another tablespoon of water until light. Remove from the heat and add the flavouring. Then fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites (beaten with a pinch of salt). Pour into small glasses. This is very much improved by being kept in the refigerator for 12 hours.

  438. Pink foam

  439. Cooking time 10 minutes

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings:
    ½ lemon1 Tbs. red currant jelly
    ¼ pt. burgundy (½ c.)2 egg yolks
    2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Grate the lemon rind finely and put in the top of a double boiler or in a basin to fit in the top of a saucepan. Add the other ingredients and mix well. Cook over boiling water, beating hard all the time with an egg-whisk until the mixture is thick and white and has increased in volume. Pour into individual glasses and chill for several hours. Serve with biscuits or macaroons made with the egg-whites, see Nos. 785-6.

    Chapter 11 - Fish

  440. Food value

  441. Fish is an excellent food for protein. Some fish, such as herrings, kippers, bloaters, mackeral, sardines, sprats, pilchards, eels and salmon are a good source of vitamin D. These are generally known as 'oily' fish because they contain fat. White fish, such as sole, plaice, halibut, etc. do not contain fat and are not a good sauce of vitamin D, though the livers of some are - for example cod liver and halibut liver.

    Because vitamin D is needed to build strong bones and teeth, children and expectant mothers are always advised to take cod-liver oil or one of the other fish-liver oils rich in this vitamin. Everybody needs some vitamin D and it is wise to serve oily fish as often as possible.

    The same fish are also a good source of vitamin A, one of the vitamins which protect the body against ill-health. The most important nutrients in fish are not affected by preserving.

  442. Choosing fish

  443. The ideal is to have fish straight from the sea, lake or river but very dew of us are able to do that. However, modern methods of keeping and transporting fish have very much improved the quality of fish available inland.

    When buying fish there are some points to wach out for to ensure that you buy it as fresh as possible. It should have a pleasant smell of the sea or fresh water. Whole fish should have bright clear gills, difficult to open, and the eyes should be full and bright, not dull and sunken. The flesh should be firm and no impression left when pressed. Fillets and steaks should be firm with a pleasant colour and odour. Avoid any which is flabby and watery. Do not buy packets of deep frozen fish if the wrapper is damaged or if there is a lot of frost inside the package. Frozen fish of poor quality will have white or brown patches on the surface and be stringy, tasteless and dry when cooked.

    For the best flavour cook fresh fish on the day of purchase; smoked fish will keep up to three days in the refrigerator. Put the fish in a polythene bag or other container in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Both fresh and smoked fish purchased from the fishmonger are perfectly satifactory if stored for a week or so in the home freezer. Cook it either frozen or thawed.

  444. Suggestions for cooking various kinds of fish

    • BLOATERS. Grilled.
    • BREAM. Boiled, steamed, grilled, baked (stuffed or plain).
    • BRILL. Boiled, baked, grilled.
    • CARP. Boiled, stuffed, baked.
    • COD and COLEY. If fresh, any method. Also good for 'made-up' dishes. If salt, soak for 24-48 hours, then boil and use in 'made-up' dishes. If smoked, grill, boil, bake or steam.
    • CONGER EEL. If large, use for soup. If small, fry or stew like fresh water eels.
    • CRAB. Salads, sandwich fillings. Generally sold cooked.
    • DAB. Boiled, steamed, fried or baked.
    • EELS. If fresh, boiled, fried, stewed, jellied, pies. If smoked, raw.
    • FINNAN HADDOCK. Grilled, baked.
    • FLOUNDER. Fried, grilled.
    • GRAY MULLET. As mackeral.
    • GURNET. Stuffed, baked, boiled (stuffed or plain), stewed.
    • HADDOCK. Boiled, stuffed, baked, stewed, fried.
    • HAKE. As haddock.
    • HALIBUT. Boiled, baked, fried, grilled.
    • HERRING. Steamed, grilled, stuffed, baked, soused.
    • JOHN DORY. Boiled, steamed, baked.
    • KIPPERS. Grilled.
    • LING. As cod.
    • LOBSTER. Generally sold cooked and used in salads, sauces and sandwich fillings.
    • MACKEREL. Boiled, steamed, soused, stuffed, baked.
    • MUSSELS. Boiled, fried, soups, stews.
    • PERCH. Fried, boiled, stewed.
    • PIKE. As carp.
    • PILCHARDS. Fresh, as herrings.
    • PLAICE. Fresh, boiled, steamed, grilled, stuffed, baked.
    • PRAWNS. Generally sold cooked and used in salads and curry.
    • RED MULLET. Grilled or baked.
    • ROCK SALMON. As cod.
    • SALMON. Boiled, steamed, grilled. If smoked, uncooked.
    • SCALLOPS. Fried, creamed.
    • SKATE. Steamed, boiled.
    • SMELTS. Fried, soused.
    • SOLE. As plaice.
      Lemon sole.
      Sole.
    • SPRATS. Grilled, fried, soused.
    • TROUT. Boiled, fried, grilled, stuffed, baked, soused.
    • TURBOT. Boiled, steamed, fried, grilled.
    • WHITEBAIT. Fried.
    • WHITING. Grilled, fried.
  445. Using frozen fish

  446. When fish is to be thawed before cooking this is best done slowly in the refrigerator, allowing about 6 hours per pound (½ kg.). It is essential to thaw at least partially fish required for coating with batter, otherwise the batter will be liable to fall off.

    Fillets and steaks to be cooked by other methods are better if used while still frozen or partially thawed. If allowed to thaw completely these small pieces tend to lose a lot of moisture and flavour.

    Whole fish are better if completely thawed.

    Methods of cooking are the same as for fresh fish, although it is better to cook frozen fish more slowly, at a lower temperature and about double the normal time if it is still frozen. Test a piece in the centre to make sure that it is cooked right through.

  447. Preparing fish for cooking

  448. SCALING

    Do this on a piece of paper, to catch the scales. Hold the fish by the tail and, with a knife in the other hand, scrape firmly from the tail towards the head. Wash to remove any loose scales. With certain fish, such as perch, the scales are very difficult to remove and in this case the fish should either be cooked with the scales on and skinned before serving, or plunged into boiling water for a minute or two and then the scales removed.

    CLEANING

    ROUND FISH (e.g. cod, whiting, mackeral etc.). With kitchen scissors or a sharp knife slit the belly from the head towards the vent, remove the entrails: keep the roe. The black skin lining the inside of the fish can be removed by rubbing with a little cooking-salt. Wash well and drain.

    Small fish such as herrings may be cleaned without cutting the belly. Cut behind the back of the head, not quite through to the belly and pull away from the fish, when the inside should come away with the head.

    Red mullet and smelts are cleaned by pulling out the gills, when the inside should come with them.

    FLAT FISH (e.g. soles, plaice etc.). Cut away the gills and make a small opening just behind the head. Pull out the inside and wash the fish well. Remove any dark skin as described above.

    SKINNING

    FILLETS. Place, skin down, on a board. Hold the tail-end in one hand but first rub salt on the fingers to prevent them from slipping. Take a knife in the other hand and use it to scrape and roll the fillet from the skin.

    ROUND FISH. Remove the fins and cut off a thin strip of skin from the back. Slit the skin along the belly from the vent to the tail. Cut the skin by the gills and pull off gradually, first one side and then the other.

    FLAT FISH. Slit the skin across the tail end. Rub salt on the fingers to prevent slipping and grap the skin firmly. Pull quickly towards the head. Do the other side the same way.

    EELS. Hold the head in a cloth and cut through the skin round the neck. Turn back about an inch and then pull the head with one hand and the skin with the other. It should pull off easily.

    FILLETING

    It is essential to have a sharp knife. Cut the fish down the backbone and slide the knife along close to the bones, cutting off the flesh. A flat fish will give four fillets, a round fish two. Use the bones and trimmings for fish stock, No. 34. With herring, after cutting down the back-bone, open the fish with the finger and thumb and lift up the bone with the knife. If care is taken the small bones will come away with the backbone.

    When carving or eating a whole cooked fish, the same method of cutting down the backbone should be followed. The cooked flesh can then be easily removed from the bone.

    Boiling and steaming

  449. Boiled fish

    Cooking time 7 minutes per lb. (500 g.) plus 7 minutes for thin fish; 10 minutes per lb. plus 10 minutes for thick fish. Fillets, steaks, small whole fish: 10-15 minutes.

    Quantities: ½-¾ lb. (250 g.) per person.

    1. For suitable fish see list, No. 234. Whole fish or cuts of large round fish are suitable but thick steaks may also be boiled, although steaming, No. 246, is the more satisfactory way for these.
    2. Use a pan just large enough to hold the fish and only enough water to cover. To each pint (2 c.) of water add ½ Tbs. vinegar, 1 tsp. salt, 2 peppercorns, 1 sprig parsley, ½ bay leaf, 1 small sliced carrot and 1 small sliced onion.
    3. For small pieces of fish the water should be boiling, but whole fish should go into warm water, as the shrinkage caused by boiling water weill cause the fish to lose its shape.
    4. The water should not be allowed to boil after the fish has been added, for this needs to be 'poached' like an egg. You will find it easier to handle the fish if it is placed on a rack (sold for the purpose) or tied in a clean cloth.
    5. To see if the fish is cooked, test it at the thickest point with a fork and if the flesh seems to come away easily from the bone it is done. Try not to overcook the fish as this makes it dry and tasteless and the flakes fall apart, spoiling the appearance. Lift out carefully and drain very thoroughly.
    6. Serve with a sauce made with some of the fish stock, e.g. parsley sauce, No. 87; cheese sauce, No. 75; anchovy sauce, No. 72; egg sauce, No. 77; hollandaise sauce, No. 94; lobster or shrimp sauce, No. 81; mussel sauce, No. 83.

      Plain boiled potatoes are generally considered the best and any of the following vegetables are suitable: parsnips, green peas or beans, carrots, spinach, celery, tomatoes, green salad, beetroot or cucumber salad. Left-over boiled fish may be used in recipes Nos. 248-50 and 152.

  450. Fish boiled in milk

    Cooking time, see No. 237

    Quantities: see No. 237.

    1. Suitable for steaks, fillets or small whole fish. This method is generally the one to use for smoked fish.
    2. Allow about ½ pt. milk (1 c.) for 1½ lb. fish (750 g.). Add salt and cook the fish very gently below boiling point until the flakes begin to show signs of separating.
    3. drain well and use the milk to make a sauce to serve with the fish, as for boiled fish, No. 237. Use any of the vegetables given for boild fish. Mustard sauce, No. 84, is good with smoked fish.
  451. Boiled cod

  452. The head and shoulders make the best piece for boiling. Slices may be steamed. It keeps its shape better and is not so inclined to be watery if sprinked with salt and left to stand for a couple of hours before cooking.
  453. Boiled eels

  454. Skin the eels and cook them as directed in No. 237. Serve with parsley sauce, No. 87, or anchovy sauce, No. 72.
  455. Boiled finnan haddock

  456. Cook in milk or water according to No. 238. Keep hot and use the milk to make parsley sauce, No. 87 or the water for mustard sauce, No. 84.

    For smoked haddock with poached eggs, the eggs should be poached in the milk in which the fish has been cooked. Serve on top of the fish, allowing them to break over it.

  457. Boiled fresh haddock

  458. Cut four or five gashes about an inch deep on the sides of the fish and sprinkle well with salt. Leave for two hours, then boil according to No. 237. Serve with boiled parsnips, sprinked with chopped parsley and serve egg sauce, No. 77, separately.
  459. Boiled mackerel

  460. These must be very fresh. Boil according to No. 237 and serve with fennel sauce, No. 78.
  461. Boiled salmon

  462. This may be boiled in slices or in a whole piece. The latter is better for serving cold, as it keeps more moist. Serve with cucumber salad, No. 561 and boiled potatoes. The best sauces are hollandaise, No. 94; lobster or shrimp sauce, No. 81; tartare sauce, No. 117 or brown butter sauce, No. 111.

    Cold boiled salmon may be served with mayonnaise, No. 113 or tartare sauce, No. 117. For salmon salad see No. 570.

  463. Boiled skate

  464. Skate needs to be very fresh and the thick pieces are the best to buy. It should be boiled according to No. 237 and served with caper sauce, No. 74 or brown butter sauce, No. 111.
  465. Steamed fish

    Cooking time: see No. 237

    Quantities: see No. 237.

    1. For suitable fish see list No. 234. Steaming is suitable for whole fish, cuts of fish, steaks or fillets.
    2. If no steamer is available, steaks or fillets may be cooked in a soup plate or deep dish over a pan of boiling water, using the lid of the pan to cover the fish.
    3. Place the fish in the steamer or plate, sprinkle with salt and cook until the flesh leaves the bones easily or until the flakes begin to separate.

    Serve with a sauce and any of the vegetables given for boiled fish, No. 237. Any liquid with the fish should be added to the sauce.

  466. Steamed herrings

  467. Cook the herrings according to No. 246 and serve with mustard sauce, No. 84; or caper sauce, No. 74; or fennel sauce, No. 78.

    Steamed herrings are very good cold with a salad.

  468. Fish pie

  469. Cooking time ¾-1 hour

    Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) mark 6.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. smoked fish fillet (500 g.)1 hard-boiled egg, chopped
    ½ pt. milk (1 c.)Lemon juice
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)Pepper
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)Little milk
    1 Tbs. chopped parsleyMargarine

    Measures level. Poach the fish in the milk. Drain and flake fish, making the milk up to ½ pt. (1 c.). Melt the butter or margaine in a pan. Add the flour and mix and cook for a minute. Add the milk and whisk until it boils. Boil 5 minutes. Add the fish, parsley, egg, lemon juice and pepper to taste. Put in a greased pie-dish. Mash the potato with milk to make it soft enough to spread or pipe on top of the fish. Dot with margarine and bake until hot and brown.

  470. Fish au gratin

  471. Cooking time 30-40 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. boiled, steamed or canned fish, flaked1½ oz. greated cheese (6 Tbs.)
    ¾ pt. parsley sauce, No. 87 (1½ c.), or use packet sauce3 Tbs. dried breadcrumbs
    1 lb. freshly cooked mashed potatoes (500 g.)Margarine

    Measures level. Mix the fish and sauce and make sure it is well seasoned. Make a border of mashed potato on a fireproof dish; pour the mixture into the centre and sprinkle the cheese and breadcrumbs over it. Dot with a little margarine and brown under a hot grill or in a hot oven.

  472. Dry fish curry

  473. Cooking time 5-10 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    3 small onions1 Tbs. chutney
    2 oz. butter (50 g.)1 lb. cooked fish or shell-fish (500 g.)
    1 Tbs. desiccated coconutJuice of ½ lemon
    1 apple, finely choppedBoiled rice
    Pinch of salt½ Tbs. curry powder.

    Measures level. Peel and slice the onions. Fry them brown in butter. Add the coconut, apple, salt, curry powder and chutney. Stir and heat until it is deep brown. Add the fish and heat gently for a few minutes. Add lemon juice and serve with boiled rice.

  474. Fish fillets with lemon sauce

  475. Cooking time ½ hour

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1½ lb. fillets of sole or plaice (750 g.)Juice of ½ lemon
    1 oz. margarine (25 g.)1 egg yolk
    1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)2 Tbs. cream
    ¼ pt. milk (½ c)2 Tbs. chopped parsley
    ½ pt. fish stock (1 c.)½ pt. shelled shrimps or prawns (1 c.)
    Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Use the fish trimming to make fish stock, No. 34. Roll the fillets and fasten with a tooth-pick. Poach them in a little stock, see No. 237, then drain and place on a hot dish. Remove the tooth-picks. Make a sauce by the Roux method, No. 69, adding the lemon, egg and cream at the end and cooking until thivk without boiling. Pour over the fish and decorate with parsley and shrimps or prawns.

  476. Sole or plaice mornay

  477. Cooking time ¾ hour

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    1 medium-sized sole1 oz. butter (25 g.)
    About ½ pt. white wine and water (1 c.)3 Tbs. flour
    1 sprig parsley3 oz. finely grated cheese (75 g.)
    1 slice onionLemon juice
    Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Skin and fillet the fish. Put the bones and skin in a pan with white wine and water to cover, about half and half. Add parsley, onion and some salt and pepper. Boil gently for ½ hour. Strain and use for poaching the fillets for 5-6 minutes or until tender. Keep them hot. Make a sauce by the Roux method, No. 69, with the remaining ingredients, using about ½ pt. (1 c.) of the fish stock. If necessary make up with more water, or milk. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the fish. Grease a heat-resisting serving dish and coat the bottom with a thin layes of sauce. Arrange the cooked fillets in a single layer and cover with the remaining sauce. Bake under a grill or in a hot oven.

  478. Sole or plaice with cream and grapes

  479. Cooking time ½ hour

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    1 large sole or 8 oz. fillets (350 g.)Salt and pepper
    About ½ pt. dry white wine (1 c.)¼ pt. double cream (1 c.)
    ½ small chopped onion½ oz. butter (1 Tbs.)
    Sprig of parsley

    Measures level. Skin and fillet the fish. Place in a shallow pan with white wine to cover and add the onion and parsley. Cook very gently until the fish is done, about 6 minutes. Remove fish and keep hot in the serving dish. Add salt and pepper to the wine and boil until reduced by half. Strain through a fine sieve. Return to the pan and add the grapes and cream. Boil until it thickens and then add the butter in small pieces. Mix well and pour over the fish.

    Stewing

  480. Stewed fish

    This is a very good method of using thick fillets of cod or other fish.

    1. Cut the fish in 2-inch pieces and put in a deep dish. Sprinkle with salt and leave for half an hour or longer. This draws out some of the moisture and makes the flesh firmer. Drain well.
    2. Stewed fish is usually a very savoury dish, the foundation being some fried onions or leeks. Fry them brown in a little dripping, then add any other flavouring and a very little stock.
    3. Add the fish and cook, below boiling, until the fish is tender. It may then be served with the cooking liquor, thickened if necessary.
  481. Hungarian fish stew

  482. Cooking time 15 minutes

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    1½ lb. fillets of fish (750 g.)2-3 Tbs. tomato purée or juice
    1 oz. dripping (2 Tbs.)½ tsp. paprika pepper
    4 oz. onions, sliced (125 g.)

    Measures level. Make according to No. 254, adding the tomato and paprika just before the fish. Shake the pan occasionally and take care not to overcook, or the liquid will be watery. It should not need thickening. Serve with boiled potatoes and any green vegetable.

  483. Soused fish (suitable for herrings, mackeral, trout, pilchards, sprats, smelts)

    < Cooking time 1½-2 hours

    Temperature 275° F. (140° C.) Mark ½

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    8 herrings or similar amount of other fish1 tsp. salt
    1 onion, sliced1 tsp. sugar
    6 cloves1 bay leaf
    1 tsp. peppercorns½ pt. vinegar

    Measures level.

    1. Clean the fish, removing the heads and tails but leaving the roes inside. Pack into a casserole.
    2. Sprinkle with seasonings and pour over the vinegar.
    3. Cover and bake for at least 1½ hours in a slow oven. Longer cooking improves the flavour and makes the bones soft, so that they can be eaten.
    4. Leave the dish to become cold and serve with some of the strained liquor as a sauce Serve with boiled potatoes and lettuce salad.
  484. Grilling

  485. Grilled fish

    Cooking time 5-25 minutes according to thickness

    Quantities: One steak or a small fish per person

    1. If small whole fish are being cooked, cut two or three deep gashes on either side to allow the heat to reach the centre. For suitable fish see No. 234.
    2. The fish may be dipped in seasoned flour or left plain.
    3. Heat the grill and grease the grid. Cutlets or white fish should be brushed with melted fat or basted with fat during cooking. Oily fish, such as herrings, mackeral, trout and salmon need no fat.
    4. Grill gently until brown on one side, turn, and finish cooking. The fish is done when the flesh easily leaves the bones.
    5. Serve at once with tartare sauce, No. 117, ot brown butter, No. 111 or parsley beutter, No. 123. Garnish with parsley or watercress and slices of lemon. Serve with fried ot boiled potatoes; the best vegetables are parsnips, carrots, greeen peas or beans, grilled tomatoes, cucumber, beetroot or green salad.
  486. Grilled bloaters

  487. Slit down the backbone and grill for about 6 minutes; or remove the heads, slit down the backbone, open out and remove roes and bone. Grill out flat until brown on both sides. Fry the roes golden in alittle fat and serve with the bloaters.
  488. Grilled finnan haddock

  489. Serve hot with oatcakes and butter.
  490. Grilled kipper

  491. Steep in hot water for 1-2 minutes. Drain well. Place the fish on the grill skin-side down, put a little margarine on top and cook for 5-8 minutes. Sprinkle with pepper and serve with lemon and brown bread-and-butter.
  492. Grilled salmon

  493. the steaks should be cut 1-1½ inches (2-4 cm.) thick and will need about 20-25 minutes to cook. Serve with parsley butter, No. 123 and cucumber salad, No. 561.
  494. Grilled sprats

  495. Quantities: 1 lb. (500 g.) for 3 people

    Thread onto skewers, run through the eyes and grill quickly for 3-4 minutes. Serve very hot with lemon and brown bread-and-butter.

    Frying

  496. Fried fish

  497. General directions for frying fish will be found in chapter 8, Nos. 142-9. Sauces and accompaniments should be the same as for grilled fish, No. 257.

    In addition to the ordinary methods, there are the two famouse French methods of frying fillets and small fish called 'doré' and 'à la Meunière'. In both these the fish is fried in butter, which naturally gives a delicious flavour. For 'doré' the fish is dipped in flour and then fried brown in a little butter. For 'à la Meunière', after frying in this way, the fish is sprinkled with lemon juice, salt and pepper, and chopped parsley. Then a little more butter is cooked until it goes brown and quickly poured over the fish, which should be served at once. This is the best way of cooking trout and fillets of sole.

  498. Fried eel

  499. Skin the eel and cut it in 3-inch (8 cm.) pieces. Egg and crumb and fry. Serve with tartare sauce, No. 117.
  500. Fried herrings with oatmeal

  501. The herrings may be boned and opened up flat or fried whole. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss in coarse oatmeal until thoroughly coated. Fry in hot dripping until brown on both sides - about 10 minutes. Garnish with parsley and lemon. Serve with boiled potatoes.
  502. Fried smelts

  503. To clean, pull out the gills, the insides should then come too. Coat with egg and crumbs and fry brown.
  504. Sole meunière with orange

  505. Cooking time 8-10 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 fillets sole, skinned1 large orange
    2 oz. butter (50 g.)Flour
    Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Sprinkle the sole with salt and pepper and then with flour to coat lightly. Heat half the butter in a pan and fry the fillets until lightly browned. Place on a hot dish. Arrange slices of orange on each, the orange being very carefully peeled and as much white pith removed as possible. Heat the rest of the butter until light brown, pour over the fish and serve at once.

  506. Fried whitebait

  507. Toss the fish in a mixture or flour and fine breadcrumbs until the fish are well separated. Fry for 1 minute in deep fat. Serve with lemon and brown bread-and-butter.
  508. Fried whiting

  509. Cooking time about 10 minutes.

    Cut three gashes in each side of the fish. Dip in milk and then in flour to coat evenly. Fry until golden brown in hot lard or oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and chopped parsley and serve lemon separately.

    Baking

  510. Baked stuffed fish

    This method is most suitable for whole fish. Steaks or fillets may be stuffed but do not look as attractive as the whole fish. For names of suitable fish turn to No. 234.

    Cooking time ¾-1 hour for large fish, 20-30 minutes for small fish.

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities: ¾ lb. (375 g.) per person for whole fish

    1. Clean the fish in the usual way but leave the head on, merely remove the eyes.
    2. Make a well seasoned stuffing, such as No. 130 or 128. Fill the cleaned belly of the fish and sew up with a needle and coarse thread. Do not fill too full as the stuffing swells during cooking and may burst the fish. If you are stuffing a flat fish such as sole or plaice, cut the fish down the backbone as if you were going to fillet it and push the stuffing in under the fillets. In this case the fish is not sewn up afterwards and the stuffing allowed to show through the centre.
    3. The fish may ether be brushed with melted fat or coated with egg and breadcrumbs; see No. 146.
    4. Place in the baking dish in a little hot fat and cook in a moderate oven until tender. Before baking the fish is sometimes skewered into the form of a letter 'S', or the tail is twisted round and fastened to the mouth.
    5. Remove the skewer and thread and garnish with lemon. Serve a sauce separately. Suitable ones are No. 73 or No. 89. Boiled or baked potatoes are best and any of the following vegetables: parnips, carrots, celery, spinach, tomatoes, green beans or peas, green salad, beetroot or cucumber salad.
  511. Baked fish au gratin

    This method is most suited to fillets, steaks and small whole fish. The dish does not necessarily contain cheese, as 'gratin' really means the crisp crust formed on top by the crumbs and fat.

    Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities: One steak or small fish per person.

    1. Prepare the pieces of fish and place them in a fireproof dish. A shallow dish is best, as the fish will be served in it.
    2. Cover with the sauce, which can be cheese sauce, No. 75; tomato sauce, No. 89; parsley sauce, No. 87; anchovy sauce, No. 72; brown sauce, No. 73; egg sauce, No. 77; mustard sauce, No. 84; or sour-sweet onion sauce, No. 88. With herrings and mackerel, horse-radish sauce, No. 80. Packet sauces or condensed soups may be used instead.
    3. The sauce should be of coating consistency and there should be just enough to cover the fish. Sprinkle the top with browned breadcrumbs and dot with butter, margarine or dripping.
    4. Bake in a moderate oven until the fish is cooked. Test with a fork to see if the flakes separate easily.
    5. Serve with fried or mashed potatoes and any of the vegetables given in No. 270.
  512. Fish baked in stock or wine

    (Suitable for fillets or small whole fish). Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities: One small fillet or whole fish per person.

    1. Prepare the fish and season it well. Whole fish may be stuffed with No. 270. Fillets may be spread with a thin layer of stuffing and then rolled up tightly. Fillets of sole and plaice are generally folded in two before baking.
    2. Use a shallow baking dish. Place the fish in a single layer. For extra flavour, it may be put on a bed of finely chopped or minced shallots and parsley with some chopped mushrooms, if available.
    3. Pour over very little liquid - only just enough to moisten, as it should be nearly all evaporated by the time cooking is finished. Suitable liquids are: fish stock, No. 34, red or white wine, cider, mushroom stock, No. 35 or lemon juice and melted butter.
    4. Bake in a moderate oven until the flesh is tender and the flakes part when tested. Baste once or twice during cooking.
    5. Drain the fish and add any liquid to the sauce. This fish is always served with a sauce poured over it and may be decorated with a border of duchess potatoes, No. 518, or small stuffed tomatoes, No. 541 or other vegetables. Suitable sauces are the same as for No. 271 or use oyster or mussel sauce, No. 83 or shrimp or lobster sauce, No. 81.
  513. Smoked fish hot pot

  514. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    ¾ lb. smoked fish fillets (375 g.)¼ tsp. pepper
    ¾ lb. tomatoes (375 g.)1 Tbs. water
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)2-4 thin rashers bacon

    Measures level. Put the fish in a greased pie-dish and cover with tomatoes, sliced. Sprinkle with pepper and dot with butter. Add the water and cover with the rashers of bacon. Bake until the fish is tender. Serve with mashed potatoes.

  515. Fish en papillote

  516. Cooking time 30 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities 1 small fish or 1 stek per person

    This method is suitable for herrings and other small fish or for steaks of salmon, turbot,hake, code and other fish. It is the best method of keeping small pieces of fish moist and retaining their flavour.

    The fish may be baked just with salt and pepper for seasoning or can have additional flavourings such as chopped mushrooms, parsley, lemon juice and a knob of butter.

    Clean and remove heads and tails of small fish. Put seasonings inside small fish and on top of steaks. Wrap each portion in a loose parcel of foil, put on a tray and bake. Remove from the foil and serve with any cooking liquid; or add the liquid to an accompanying sauce.

  517. Whiting à la Bercy

  518. Cooking time 15-20 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 small whiting2 oz. butter or maragine (50 g.)
    2 shallots, finely chopped½ lemon
    ¼ c. white wine and fish stock, No. 341 Tbs. chopped parsley

    Measures level. Remove the heads and fins from the whiting and slit them down the backbones to allow the heat to penetrate easily. Grease a shallow baking dish and sprinkle in the shallots. Add the liquid and the butter and bake in a moderate oven, basting frequently with the juice. Bu the time the fish is done all the liquid should have evaporated. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and serve at once.

  519. Swedish baked herrings

  520. Cooking time 20-25 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 herringsPinch of pepper
    2 tsp. saltPinch of ground cloves
    2 Tbs. vinegar2 Tbs. browned bread-crumbs
    2 Tbs. water1½ Tbs. sugar

    Measures level. Fillet the herrings and run them well with the salt. Put in a baking dish letting the fillets overlap slightly. Mix the vinegar, water, sugar, pepper and cloves together and pour over the fish. Sprinkle the crumbs on top. Bake until the flesh flakes easily. Serve with boiled potatoes.

  521. Fish à la Bretonne

  522. (Suitable for mackerel, whiting, herrings and sole). Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 small fishPinch of pepper
    Flour to coat2 oz. butter (50 g.)
    1 tsp. salt½ lemon

    Measures level. Slit the bellies and flatten the fish, after removing heads and fins. Dry and coat in the flour and seasoning. Melt the butter in a casserole and when very hot, add the fish, skin side up. Cook for a few minutes. Turn the fish over and the put the lid on the casserole and cook until the fish is tender. Sprinkle with lemon juice before serving.

    Canned fish

  523. General information

  524. Canned fish should keep for several years in a cool, dry place but the tins must not be allowed to become damp or rust will eat through and make them leak. Turn the cans over occasionally to keep the contents well mixed with the liquid. Discard any tins which are 'blown' - that is, bulge at the ends instead of being flat.

    After opening, canned fish will not keep any longer than cooked fresh fish.

    The bones of canned fish are soft and can be eaten. They contain calcium, which the body needs for strong bones and teeth.

  525. Suggestions for using canned crawfish or crab

    • Salad, No. 293
    • Patties, No. 294
    • Curry (heat fish in sauce, No. 76)
  526. Suggestions for using canned herrings or pilchards

    • Fish cakes, No. 152
    • Salad, No. 562
    • Open sandwich, No. 892
  527. Herrings or pilchards for breakfast

  528. Method 1. Place the fish on slices of toast and heat under the grill.

    Method 2.Heat the fish in a frying-pan and serve on slices of fried bread.

  529. Suggestions for using canned oysters or mussels

    • Sauce for fish, No. 83
    • Soup, No. 54
    • Hors-d'œuvre, No. 961
    • Fried in batter, Nos. 147-9
  530. Suggestions for using canned prawns

    • Hors-d'œuvre, No. 310
    • Heat in curry sauce see No. 76
    • Salad, No. 309
  531. Suggestions for using canned salmon or tuna

    • Fish cakes, No. 152
    • Fritters, No. 867
    • Fish pie, No. 248
    • Sandwich, No. 890 and No. 892
    • Au gratin, No. 249
    • Salad, No. 570
    • Flan, No. 834
    • Mousse, No. 286
  532. Salmon or tuna loaf

  533. Cooking time ¾ hour

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 oz. mashed fish (1 c.)1 tsp salt
    ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)1 tsp lemon juice
    2 oz. breadcrumbs (1 c.)Pinch of pepper
    2 eggsPinch of mace

    Measures level. Mash the fish, including the bone, which is quite soft. Heat the milk and pour onto the breadcrumbs. Soak for a minute or two. Add the egg yolks, fish and the seasonings. Add the beaten egg whites. Pour into a well greased 1 lb. (500 g.) loaf tin and bake in a moderate oven until set. Turn out.

    Serve with boiled or mashed potatoes and green peas or baked tomatoes. Mask with parsley sauce, No. 87, or tomato sauce, No. 89.

  534. Fish mousse

  535. (For salmon, tuna, cooked smoked fish or fresh or smoked cod's roe)

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    ½ oz. gelatine (1½ Tbs.)Pinch of paprika pepper
    ⅛ pt. hot water (5 Tbs.)⅛ pt. whipping cream (5 Tbs.)
    8 oz. fish (250 g.)1 Tbs tarragon vinegar

    Measures level. Dissolve the gelatine in the hot water and mash it with the fish, vinegar and pepper; or put in the blender. Whip the cream and fold it into the fish mixture. Taste for seasoning and pour into a mould. When set, unmould and serve with salad and lemon wedges. Suitable for a main dish, hors d'œuvre or buffet meal.

  536. Suggestions for using canned sardines

    • Fish cakes, No. 152
    • Hors d'œuvre, No. 965
    • Sandwich, No. 892
  537. Sardines on toast with cheese sauce

  538. Cooking time 10 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    6-8 sardinesChopped parsley
    4 slices toast
    ½ pt. cheese sauce, No. 75 (1 c.) or use packet sauce

    Arrange the sardines on the toast and warm under the grill. Pour the hot sauce over and decorate with chopped parsley.

  539. Suggestions for using canned anchovies

    • Fish stuffing, No. 130 (use 1 or 2 anchovies instead of the essence)
    • Hors d'œuvre, No. 948
    • Cauliflower mayonnaise, No. 560

    Shell-fish

  540. General information

  541. With the exception of oysters and mussels, shell fish are usually sold cooked. The live fish is thrown into boiling water, the boiling time varying with the size: 5 minutes for shrimps, 7-8 minutes for prawns, 15-20 minutes for lobsters or crabs. Frozen cooked shell-fish should be allowed to thaw completely and then used as soon as possible.

    Crabs, lobsters, prawns and shrimps are all regarded as rather indigestible. Vinegar or a sauce containing vinegar, or lemon juice, is generally served with them, as the acid present in these help to soften the fish fibres and stimulate the digestive juices, making for better digestion.

  542. Crabs

  543. Medium sized crabs (6-10 inches (15-25 cm.) across in the widest part) are generallt regarded as the best buy. They should have large claws and all the claws should be on, because if a claw comes off during cooking, water weeps in and makes the inside damp. Another indication of good quality is for the crab to be heavy in proportion to its size and for the shell to be rough and bright in colour. The claws should be stiff.

    To prepare crabs pull off the claws and crack them using a hammer or nut-crackers, and pick out the flesh.

    Turn the crab on its back and, with a sharp pointed knife, remove the 'apron', the small pointed piece at the lower part of the shell. Separate the lower and upper shells.

    Pick out the flesh from the shell, taking out any hard pieces of tendons. The yellow liver is used as well as the white flesh but the gills, stomach and green intestine should be discarded.

  544. Dressed crab

  545. Quantities for 3 helpings:
    1 medium sized crabSalt, mustard and cayenne pepper
    1 Tbs. vinegarLemon and parsley
    2 Tbs. oil

    Measures level. Mix the flesh with the oil and vinegar and season well. Wash the shell, dry it thoroughly and put the flesh back inside. Decorate with slices of lemon and the parsley. If preferred, the crab may be prepared in individual portions and served in small scallop shells or in a nest of lettuce leaves.

  546. Crab salad

  547. Use the same mixture as No. 292 and serve it on a bed of lettuce and decorate with cress and tomatoes.
  548. Crab patties

  549. Mix 1 c. crab meat with 1 c. parsley sauce, No. 87. Season well and add a little lemon juice or vinegar to taste. Serve in patty-cases, No. 810.
  550. Hot buttered crab

  551. Cooking time 5 minutes.

    Quantities for 3 helpings:
    1 medium sized crab2 tsp. lemon juice
    1 Tbs. cream or top milk2 Tbs. vinegar
    2 tsp. chopped parsleyPinch of cayenne pepper
    3 Tbs. breadcrumbs½ tsp. anchovy essence
    ½ oz. butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)paprika pepper
    Toast

    Measures level. Mix the crab meat with the other ingredients and heat in a pan. Serve in hot scallop-dishes and ecorate with paprika pepper. Serve hot toast separately.

  552. Lobsters

  553. A good lobster should be heavy in proportion to its size and the tail should feel springy, if pulled back a little.

    To prepare a lobster for serving break off the claws. If there is any spawn 'coral' under the tail, keep it for decorating the dish. Crack the claws with a hammer.

    Remove the small intestinal vein that runs down the centre of the tail. Cut the body and tail lengthwise through the middle and remove the flesh, discarding the stomach and the green liver, also the gills at the sides of the body. The shell of the body and the tail may be washed and dried and used to hold the meat for serving.

  554. Cold lobster

  555. This is usually served split in half and decorated with the claws arranged neatly round and with parsley or lettuce heart. A French dressing, No. 118, or mayonnaise, No. 113 is served with it.
  556. Lobster mayonnaise

  557. Arrange pieces of lobster on a nest of fresh, crisp lettuce and cover the lobster with mayonnaise, No. 113. Decorate with the coral.
  558. Lobster au gratin

  559. Cooking time ¼-½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 medium lobster (about 2 lb. or 1 kg.)Salt to taste
    1½ oz. butter or margaine (3 Tbs.)2 Tbs. chopped parsley
    2 tsp. chopped onion2 tsp. lemon juice
    2 Tbs. flour½ tsp. anchovy essence
    ½ pt. milk1 egg yolk
    Cayenne pepper3-4 Tbs. fresh breadcrumbs

    Measures level. Save the four pieces of lobster shell and clean them for serving. Cut the meat in slices. Melt the butter or margarine and cook the onion for a minute or two without browning. Add the flour, mix well and then add the milk. Stir until it boils. Boil for 5 minutes. Then add the seasonings and the egg and cook for another minute or two. Mix in the lobster. Fill the lobster shells and cover the top with breadcrumbs. Dot with a little butter and bake in a moderate overn for 20 minutes or brown under the grill.

  560. Lobster patties

  561. Mix 1 c. lobster meat with 1 c. thick tomato soup, No. 89. Use to fill patty cases, No. 810.
  562. Mussels

  563. The shells should be closed tightly. Discard any which are even slightly open as this indicates staleness.

    Wash the mussels in several waters, brushing off as much sand as possible. To make the shells open put the mussels in a pan with a very little water and put the lid on. Cook gently until the shells open. Then strain the liquor and keep it for the sauce. Remove any weed there may be under the black tongue.

  564. Mussels served cold

  565. Cook as decribed in No. 301. Leave in one half of the shell. Serve vinegar and brown bread-and-butter with them.
  566. Mussels served hot

  567. Cooking time 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 2 helpings:
    1 qt. of mussels (1 l.)Salt and pepper
    1 oz. butter or margaine (25 g.)1 Tbs. lemon juice
    1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

    Measures level. Prepare the mussels as described for No. 301. Mix the liquor with the other ingredients and pour over the mussels. Serve hot with brown bread-and-butter.

  568. Moules marinières

  569. Cooking time 15 minutes.

    Quantities for 3 helpings:
    3 pt. of mussels (1½ l.)2 Tbs. fine breadcrumbs
    2 oz. butter or margaine (50 g.)1 c. water and liquid from fish
    1 tsp. chopped chivesJuice of ½ lemon
    chopped parsley

    Measures level. Prepare the mussels as described for No. 301 saving the liquor. Remove half the shells leaving the mussels attached to the other halves. Make the liquor up to 1 cup with water and mix in a pan with the butter, chives, parsley and breadcrumbs. Boil for 2 minutes with the mussels. Squeeze over the lemon juice and serve hot with breand-and-butter.

  570. Oysters

  571. If oysters are fresh they should be difficult to open and should close hard on the knife when inserted for opening.

    To open, hold the oyster in a cloth with the deep shell at the bottom to catch the juice. Slide the knife with a see-saw motion.

  572. Oysters au naturel

  573. Prepare as described in No. 305 and leave the oysters in the deep shell with their juice. Stand on crushed ice for an hour before serving. Serve with vinegar or lemon, pepper and brown bread-and-butter.
  574. Prawns

  575. If fresh they have a sweet smell.

    When cooked prawns are stale, the tails are limp and the fish pale and clammy with a pungent smell.

    Shelling is very difficult if the prawns are at all stale. Hold the head and part of the body in the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. Hold three joints of the tale with the left hand and bend back a little. Then pull the end os the tail and the tail-shell should come off. Hold the body and gently pull out of the head and body-shell.

  576. Curried prawns

  577. Cooking time ½ hour

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    3 pt. prawns (2 c.)4 oz. rice (½ c.), boiled
    ½ pt. curry sauce, No. 76 (1 c.)

    Measures level. Make the curry sauce and heat the prawns in it. Let them stand for 5 or 10 minutes to absorb the flavour of the curry. Serve with the boiled rice.

  578. Prawn salad

  579. Arrange prawns on a bed of chrisp lettuce. Squeeze lemon or lime juice over them and cover with mayonnaise, No. 113.
  580. Prawn for hors-d'œuvre

  581. Sprinkle with lemon juice or lime juice and serve very cold with brown bread-and-butter.
  582. Scallops

  583. These are generally sold already opened but must be very fresh. Cut off the beards but leave the black, white and orange parts. The deep shells are useful for serving various savoury dishes.
  584. Fried scallops

  585. Allow two scallops per person. Dry them well, dip in seasoned flour and then in fritter batter, No. 865. Fry in deep fat until brown: see No. 149. Serve with lemon or with tomato sauce, No. 89.
  586. Scalloped scallops

  587. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 scallopsChopped parsley
    ¼ pt. white sauce, No. 69 (½ c.)Lemon juice
    Cayenne papper and saleBreadcrumbs

    Measures level. Grease four deep scallop shells and strew on a few breadcrumbs. Put two scallops in each and sprinkle in a few grains of cayenne pepper, a little lemon juice and chopped parsley. Cover the scallops with the well-seasoned sauce and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Put a small knob of butter of margarine on top of each. Bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve hot.

  588. Scampi

  589. Also known as Norway lobster, Dublin Bay prawn, scampo, scampolo (Italy), langoustine (France).

    They are sold fresh-cooked or deep frozen (raw or cooked). The fleshy tails are the part eaten. Frozen raw scampi should be thawed before separating from each other. To fry, dry well, coat with flour and batter and deep fry, see No. 149. Otherwise poach them for 3-4 minutes in boiling salted water, taking care to avoid over-cooking. Then serve in the same way as prawns.

  590. Shrimps

  591. Prepare and use in the same way as prawns, Nos. 307-310.
  592. Potted shrimps

  593. Shell the shrimps and mash them with just enough butter to bind them well, or, an alternative method, put the the shrimps in small jars and pour over melted butter to cover. Serve with toast or brown bread-and-butter.

    Fish roes

  594. Fried

  595. (Suitable for herrings or other small roes)

    Hard or soft roes may be used. Dip in flour or in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in shallow fat until light brown. Serve on toast with lemon.

  596. Creamed soft roes

  597. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    8 soft roesSalt and pepper
    ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)Lemon juice
    4 slices toastChopped parsley
    1½ Tbs. flour

    Measures level. Stew the roes in the milk until they are opaque and firm. This takes about 10-15 minutes. Place two roes on each piece of toast and keep hot. Mix the flour to a paste with a little cold water. Add the hot milk. Return to teh pan and stir until it boils. Cook for 5 minutes. Season well, add lemon juice and pour over the roes. Garnish with chopped parsley.

  598. Fried cod's roe

  599. Cod's roe is usually sold cooked or canned and ready for frying but if raw roe is purchased, proceed as follows.

    Tie the roe in a thin cloth to keep it in shape. Put into boiling salted water and cook very gently for half an hour. Lift out of the pan but leave in the cloth until quite cold. Cut in ½-inch slices and dust with flour. Fry in hot fat until well browned and crisp. Serve with slices of lemon.

    Chapter 12 - Meat, poultry and game

  600. Food value

  601. As a group, meat, game and pultry are all important sources of protein, vitamins of the B group and iron. Liver is one of the richest sources of vitamin A as well as of B vitamins and iron, while beef (particularly corned beef) is noted for its iron content and pork and chicken as sources of B vitamins.

    The only nutrients lost to any significant extent when meat is canned are the B vitamins and these are also lost through the action of preservatives used in sausages. The loss of nutrients during the curing of ham and bacon or the freezing of meat is small.

    Because meat can be a source of infection there is always a health hazard when it is eaten raw or under-done. It is particularly important that sausages, minced meat and pork be cooked thoroughly.

  602. General information

  603. Lean meat is made up of bundles of fibres or long cells which contain protein, water, salts and extractives. Extractives are the substances which give meat its particular flavour and the meat from old animals contains more than that from young. Therefore beef has more flavour than veal.

    These bundles of fibres are held together by a substance called connective tissue. Muscles which have a great deal of use, such as leg muscles, have more connective tissue than others and it can easily be seen as gristle. The less connective tissue meat has, the more tender it is. Heat and moisture soften connective tissue, allowing the muscle fibes to fall apart and thus the meat becomes tender. Cuts of meat containing a lot of gristle must always be cooked by one of the moist methods, such as stewing or braising, so that they will be sure to be tender. Only the cuts of meat that do not contain much connective tissue are suitable for 'dry' methods of cooking, such as roasting, grilling and frying.

    The alternative method of making tought meat tender is by mincing, which breaks up the connective tissue and the same idea lies behind the custom of beating steaks before cooking.

    During the process of hanging meat after slaughter, softening of the connective tissue takes place naturally due to the presence of lactic acid and makes the meat more tender. The process can be helped by treating the meat with a 'tenderizer' which contains the juice of pawpaw with its tenderising enzyme. Preparations containing this enzyme are sold under various trade names.

    Another effect of cooking is to make the meat shrink and in shrinking it squeezes out juice. With the juice go some of the extractives, or flavour, and some of the salts and water. These are not lost as they help to form the gravy. With dry methods of cooking, such as roasting and grilling, some of the extractives and salts stay on the outside of the meat to form a crust, which gives the particularly attractive flavour to meat cooked in this way.

  604. Quantities of meat to buy

    • Meat without bone, 4-6 oz. per person (125 g.)
    • Meat with bone, 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.)
    • Brains, 1 small per person
    • Ears, pig's, 2 per person
    • Kidney, sheep's and pig's 1 per person
    • Kidney, calf's, serves 2
    • Liver, 4 oz. per person (125 g.)
    • Ox-tail serves 3-4
    • Sausages, 4 oz. per person (125 g.)
    • Sweetbreads, 1 per person
    • Tongue, sheep's, 1 per person
    • Tongue, ox, serves 6 or more
    • Tripe, 4 oz. per person (125 g.)
    • Blackcock and widgeon serve 3-4
    • Chicken, oven-ready, allow ½ lb. per portion (250 g.)
    • Feet, calf's and pig's, 1 per person
    • Head, sheep's serves 2-3
    • Head, calf's serves 10 or more
    • Head, pig's, serves 7-8
    • Heart, calf's, serves 4-5
    • Heart, sheep's, serves 1
    • Duck, oven-ready, allow ½ lb. per portion (250 g.)
    • Duckling serves 4-5
    • Goose, oven ready, allow ¾ lb. per person (375 g.)
    • Grouse serves 3
    • Guinea-fowl serves 4-5
    • Hare serves 5-6
    • Partridge serves 2-3
    • Pheasant serves 2-4
    • Pigeon serves 2-3
    • Plover serves 2
    • Quail and ortolan, allow 1 each
    • Rabbit serves 4-5
    • Teal, ptarmigan, snipe and woodcock serve 1-2
    • Turkey, oven ready allow ¾ lb. per portion (375 g.)
  605. Carving

  606. Good carving is not difficult if you have a really sharp carving-knife. The important thing to remember is that meat must always be carved ACROSS the grain and not with it. One cut with the knife should be sufficient to show if it going in the right direction. If you are cutting the wrong way - that is, with the grain - you will clearly see the long fibres of meat, instead of the fine surface produced by cuttin across the fibres. A little experience will soon tell you which way to start tacking any joint.

    Beef is nice if cut in very thin slices but lamb and pork are generally cut a little thicker.

    When carving game and poultry, begin by cutting off the legs at the joint closest to the body. The breast is then cut in slices upwards.

    With a calf's or pig's head the cheek is the meaty part and should be carved from mouth to ear.

    Choosing meat

  607. General information

  608. The ideal is to be able to make up your mind in advance exactly what cut you want to buy and how you are going to cook and serve it but in practice it seldom works out like that. If you are new to shopping the best thing to do is ask the butcher's advice. Either ask him the name of the cut you are buying and then look in your cookery book for the best way of treating it, or else ask him whether it is suitable for roasting or stewing. If he says it will roast, 'but cook it slowly', you will be well advised to treat it like a tough cut and braise or pot roast it.

    The ideal place to keep meat, poultry and game is on the refrigerator; otherwise in a cold larder or a safe hung in a cool, airy place. It must always be protected from flies. Do not wrap raw meat for storage in the refrigerator unless the wrap is close-fitting wrap or foil. Enclosed air tends to make raw meat become slimy and bad smelling. A better way is to put it on a plate with a piece of foil on top. Wrap bacon or cooked meat in foil or polythene.

  609. Choosing beef

  610. Good-quality beef is light red, fine in grain and elastic to touch and marbled with fine, cream-coloured fat. Poor quality beef is flabby, dark and coarse with yellow fat.

    If the meat contains any gristle it is not suitable for grilling, frying or ordinary roasting.

    CUTS SUITABLE FOR GRILLING AND FRYING: Rump, fillet, sirloin.

    SUITABLE FOR ROASTING: Round, rump, top side, sirloin, fore ribs, wing ribs, standing ribs.

    SUITABLE FOR POT ROASTING AND BRAISING: Aitch-bone, middle rump, ribs, shoulder, chuck, brisket.

    SUITABLE FOR STEWING, BOILING, PIES AND PUDDINGS: Leg, shin, flank, skirt, neck, shoulder. Sirloin Round Rump steak Rib Brisket

  611. Choosing lamb and mutton

  612. Lamb should be red with white fat and the bones should be moist and red at the joints.

    Mutton should be bright red with yellowish fat and the bones white.

    SUITABLE FOR GRILLING AND FRYING: Best end of neck, loin.

    SUITABLE FOR ROASTING: Leg, loin, best end of neck, shoulder.

    SUITABLE FOR BOILING AND STEWING: Leg, neck, scrag, breast (stuffed and rolled).

  613. Choosing pork

  614. Good quality pork should be pale brownish-red with firm flesh and white, firm fat.

    SUITABLE FOR GRILLING AND FRYING: loin chops (thorough cooking needed).

    SUITABLE FOR ROASTING: leg, lons.

    SUITABLE FOR POT ROASTING AND BRAISING: spare ribs, best end of neck, blade bone.

    SUITABLE FOR BOILING AND STEWING: leg, spare ribs, best end of neck, blade bone, belly, hand and spring, head. Loin Leg

  615. Choosing veal

  616. Good quality veal should be pale-pink with clear, firm, white fat.

    SUITABLE FOR GRILLING AND FRYING: Fillet, loin, best end of neck (thorough cooking needed). Fillet Chop

    SUITABLE FOR ROASTING: Leg, loin, shoulder or oyster.

    SUITABLE FOR POT ROASTING AND BRAISING: Best ebd of neck, breast (rolled and stuffed).

    SUITABLE FOR BOLILING AND STEWING: Breast, scrag, shoulder, knuckle.

  617. Choosing offal and sundries

    • BRAINS: Suitable for boiling and may be fried
    • FEET: Suitable for stewing, braising, soups, brawn
    • HEAD: Suitable for boiling, brawn, soups
    • HEARTS: Suitable for stewing (cut up and mix with other meat) and brasing (stuffed or plain)
    • KIDNEYS: Suitable for stews, puddings, pies, soups. Lamb's kidneys suitable for frying and grilling
    • LIVER (LAMB'S AND CALF'S): Suitable for frying, stewing, braising
    • OX LIVER: Suitable for stewing and braising
    • OX-TAIL: Suitable for soups, stewing and braising
    • SAUSAGES: Suitable for frying, grilling, stewing, loaves and pies
    • SWEETBREADS: Suitable for braising, frying, grlling
    • TONGUES: Suitable for boiling, braising, brawn
    • TRIPE: Suitable for stewing, boiling, braising
  618. Choosing poultry and game

  619. Most 'oven-ready' poultry is labelled as suitable for either frying, roasting or boiling. Otherwise it is best to buy it from a reliable butcher, first telling him how you want to cook the bird.

    CHICHENS are roasted or fried if very young.

    FOWLS are stewed, braised or boiled but may be steamed and then roasted.

    DUCKS OR DUCKLINGS are roasted or braised.

    GEESE are roasted.

    GUINEA-FOWL are roasted

    PIGEONS are stewed or grilled (if young).

    TURKEYS are roasted.

    Young hares and rabbits have smooth, sharp claws, ears that are tender and easily torn and a short, stumpy neck. Cultivated rabbit is usually tender.

    Roasting is the favourite method of cooking all game, but if it is old, stewing or braising is advisable. Venison is usually hung for 14 days and then roasted. Neck chops may be grilled as veal or pork chops. Venison may also be stewed.

    Preparing meat, poultry and game for cooking

  620. Preparing meat

  621. FRESH MEAT. Trim off surplus fat and keep it for rendering down (see No. 138). In warm weather, if the meat has a slight smell wipe the surface with a cloth soaked in vinegar.

    FROZEN MEAT. Thaw all meat completely unless you know it has been specially prepared for cooking without thawing. Well hung home-frozen meat can be cooked without thawing.

    SALT MEAT. If very salt, soak in cold water 3-4 hours or longer.

    BRAINS. Soak in cold water until all the blood is removed. Remove skin and fibres.

    EARS (pig's). Soak in cold water for 5-6 hours.

    FEET (cow's and calf's). Usually sold ready for cooking.

    FEET (pig's and sheep's). Wash well.

    HEAD (calf's). Ask the butch to cut in half lengthwise. Remove the brains and soak the head and brains in cold water until all the blood is removed. Change the water several times. Then blanch the head by boiling 15 minutes. See No. 12.

    HEAD (pig's). If salted, soak in cold water.

    HEAD (sheep's). Wash in several waters and then soak in salt water for 1 hour. Then blanch by just bringing to the boil. See No. 12.

    HEART. Wash in several waters and leave to soak in cold water for 1 hour. Squeeze out all blood.

    KIDNEYS. Remove fat, skin and hard core.

    LIVER. Wash and dry.

    SWEETBREADS. Soak in cold water for 1 hour to remove the blood. Blanch as in No. 12, just bringing lamb's sweetbreads to the boil but boiling calf's sweetbreads for 10-12 minutes. Leave to become cold. Remove all gristle and tissue before completing the cooking.

    TONGUE (ox). Soak in cold water for 2-3 hours; (sheep's and pig's): soak in cold water for 2 hours and then blanch, see No. 12; (calf's): cooked with the head.

    TRIPE. Uusually sold ready for cooking.

  622. Preparing poultry

    1. Either pluck the bird directly after killing and while it is still warm, or else put it in a bucket and pour boiling water over it, when the feathers will be found to come out quite easily. Be careful not to tear the skin. Remove the short pin-feathers with the aid of a knife. Singe off the hairs by holding the bird over a gas-flame, lighted taper, or spill of paper.
    2. Cut off the head. Cut the neck-bone off close to the body but first pull back the skin as you want this left long to fold over neatly. The neck should be kept to cook with the other giblets for stock. Remove the crop and the wind-pipe from the neck and loosen the top of the entrails by working round the body with your forefinger.
    3. Turn the bird on its back. Lift up the skin just above the vent and make a long cut in it. Then cut round the vent. Loosen the fat and then loosen the entrails by passing the right hand gently inside the walls of the body and the entrails. Hold the bird firmly with the other hand while you do this. Then take hold of the gizzard, which can easily be felt, as it is big and hard, and gently draw aout the entrails. Try not to damage the gall-bladder attached to the liver, it make it bitter and unusable. You will be able to tell if this has happened, as there will be a green patch on the liver. The lungs and kidneys do not always come out with the entrails, so put in your hand again and feel for then in the hollows by the backbone. Wash the inside in cold running water and drain thoroughly.
    4. Break the legs at the lower joint and bend them back. This exposes the tendons. Lever up the exposed parth with a skewer and pull out the tendon taking care not to tear the flesh.
    5. Stuff from the neck end until the breast is plump. Draw the skin back over the neck-opening and sew or skewer it firmly to seal the opening. For sewing use a coarse needle and thick white cotton. Stuff the body from the tail end. Push the tail through the slit and skewer it there firmly.
    6. To truss, draw the thights close to the body and cross the legs over the tail. Tie them together with string. Fold the wings backwards and inwards over the neck-skin and tie or skewer them.
    7. the giblets consist of the neck, feet, heart, liver and gizzard. Clean them in the following way. Cut through the thick muscle of the gizzard, lengthwise. Peel it off the rough, wrinkled lining and discard the lining and contents. Cut the heart open lengthwise. Remove the gall-bladder very carefully from the liver and if it should be broken, cut away any discoloured liver. Scald the feet in boiling water for a minute or two and then peel off the skin. Wash all the giblets and boil them in water with an onion, a carrot and seasonings for 1-2 hours and use the liquid for gravy or stock.
  623. Frozen poultry

    Joints mey be cooked without thawing but whole birds should be completely thawed, preferably in the refrigerator or cold larder. Chickens, ducks and gees will need 24-36 hours and turkeys 2-4 days depending on the size. They take less time in a warm room.
  624. Preparing hares and rabbits

    1. Cut off the legs at the first joints.
    2. Slit the skin all along the belly and loosen it from the body.
    3. Slit the belly and draw out the entrails. Keep the liver and heart to use for making stock. Wash the animal well in cold water. Truss for roasting by skewering or tying the legs close to the body, or joint as follows.

      Cut off the head. Cut out the eyes and split the head in half lengthwise. Use it for stock,

      Cut off the hind legs close to the body. The joints are quite easy to find.

      Cut the body in three or four pieces through the back-bone. The piece with the forelegs should be cut in half lengthwise.

    Boiling

  625. General information

  626. Boiling is best suited to whoe joints, breast of lamb or veal, rabbits ot fowls, tongues, salt meat and similar foods. Smaller pieces of meat lose so much flavour to the liquid that they are better cooked by one of the other methods unless they are boiled with the deliberate idea of flavouring the liquid for soup. This method is popular in many countries, the Scotch broth being one example and the French pot au feu another. The boiled meat is served as one course with the vegetables cooked in the same liquid and the stock used to make a soup.

    You will find a list of suitable cuts of meat for boiling in Nos. 325-330.

    N.B. Boiled meat may be cooked in a pressure cooker when ¼-⅓ the normal times will be required.

  627. Boiled fresh meat, game or poultry

    1. It is advisable to choose a pan just bitg enough to hold the meat, as the less liquid you have the better will be the flavour of both meat and stock.
    2. Boil the liquid and add a bouquet garni and an onion stuck with 3 or 4 cloves.
    3. Add the meat and boil rapidly for 5 minutes. Skim well and cover the pan.
    4. Lower the heat and cook just below boiling (simmering) until the meat is tender. For times see No. 338. A fine skewer will go in easily if the meat is tender.
    5. If the vegetables are being cooked with the meat they should be cut in large pieces and added ½-1 hour before the end of the cooking, depending on the kind of vegetable. Add about 1 level Tbs. salt with the vegetables. Dumplings should be added ½ hour before serving.
    6. Use the liquid for a sauce to serve with the meat and the remainder of the stock for soup.
  628. Boiled salt meat

    (bacon, ham pork, beef, tongue etc.)

    This differs from fresh meat in that it is started in cold water in order to draw out the salt. If the meat is very salty it should be soaked in cold water for 3-4 hours or longer before cooking. If the meat is to be served cold, cool it as quickly as possible and store it in the refrigerator or cold larder.

  629. Boiling time table

    • Bacon and ham: Pieces under 1 lb. (½ kg.) 45 minutes; pieces of 1-2 lb. (½ kg.) 1-1½ hours; pieces of 3 lb. and over (1½ kg.) allow 30 minutes per lb. Pressure cooking allow 12 minutes per lb.
    • Beef, salt: 1 lb. (½ kg.) or less 1 hour; 2-3 lb. (1-1½ kg.) 2-3 hours; 4-5 lb. (2-2½ kg.) 3-4 hours; more than this 20 minutes per lb. (½ kg.) plus 20 minutes.
    • Beef, fresh: as for salt. Pressure cooking allow ¼-½ these times.
    • Brains, calf's: 20 minutes, or 10 minutes if to be fried afterwards.
    • Brains, ox: 30 minutes.
    • Brains, sheep's and pig's: 15 minutes.
    • Ears, pig's: 1½ hours.
    • Feet, calf's and cow's: 2-3 hours.
    • Feet, pig's: 2 hour.
    • Fowl: 1-2½ hours depending on age and size.
    • Head, calf's: 3-4 hours.
    • Head, pig's (half): 1½-2 hours.
    • Head, sheep's: 1½-2 hours.
    • Mutton or lamb: 15-20 minutes per lb. (500 g.) (breast, rolled, 1-1½ hours).
    • Pork, salt: 25-30 minutes per lb. (500 g.).
    • Rabbit: 40-60 minutes.
    • Tongue, calf's: Cooked with the head or 2-3 hours.
    • Tongue, ox: 3-3½ hours.
    • Tongue, sheep's and pig's: 1½-2 hours.
    • Veal: 20-25 minutes per lb. (500 g.) (breast, rolled, 1-1½ hours).
  630. What to serve with boiled meat, poultry or game

    BEEF. Boiled potatoes. Onions, carrots, swedes, turnips, cabbage (cut in quarters), beetroot (cooked separately). Dumplings, tomato sauce, No. 89; parsley sauce, No. 87; Horse-radish sauce, No. 80.

    BOILED BACON OR SALT PORK. Boiled potatoes. Cabbage, carrots, turnips, beetroot (cooked separately), beans. Pease pudding, No. 553; parsley sauce, No. 87; Tomato sauce, No. 89.

    BRAINS. After boiling these are often sliced and fried. They should be allowed to become cold and then sliced and dipped in egg and crumbs. If served boiled, make a parsley sauce, No. 87, with some of the stock. Any vegetables may be served.

    CALF'S FEET. The bones are removed after cooking, the feet cut in pieces and served in a parsley sauce, No. 87, made from the cooking liquor, with some chooped cooked ham or bacon in it. Serve with any vegetables.

    CALF'S HEAD. Boiled potatoes, vinaigrette sauce, No. 119, with the cooked, mashed brains added. Slices of the tongue are served with slices of the meat. A lettuce salad, No. 563, is generally served afterwards.

    FOWL. Boiled potatoes. Any green or root vegetables. Onion sauce, No. 85; bread sauce, No. 121; egg sauce, No. 77; parsley sauce, No. 87.

    LAMB AND MUTTON. Boiled jacket potatoes. Swedes, carrots, turnips, onions and any green vegetables. Caper sauce, No. 74; parsley sauce, No. 87; onion sauce, No. 85; fennel sauce, No. 78; red-currant jelly.

    PIG'S EARS: These are generally cooked with the feet, the cut in strips and served with parsley sauce, No. 87, made from the cooking liquor. Any vegetables are suitable.

    RABBIT. Boiled jacket potatoes. Onions, carrots, turnips and any green vegetable. Dumplings. Boiled salt pork or bacon. Parsley sauce, No. 87; mint sauce, No. 120.

    SHEEP'S HEAD. The brains are added 15 minutes before the end of the cooking and then mashed and added to a sauce made from some of the cooking liquor. Root vegetables are cooked and served with the head. Boiled potatoes are the best.

    TONGUE. These are generally served cold with salad. After cooking they are pressed in a basin or mould with a weight on top until quite cold. If served hot, a parsley sauce, No. 87 or tomato sauce, No. 89 is suitable and any vegetables.

  631. Boiled breast of lamb or veal

    Ask the butcher not to chop the breast in pieces. Remove the small bones and any surplus fat. Place the meat skin-side down and spread the inside with veal forcemeat, No. 135 or mint stuffing, No. 131. Roll up tightly and tie with fine string. Boil as in No. 336.

    Serve hot with a sauce made from the liquid, for example, Parsley sauce, No. 87; caper sauce, No. 74; brown sauce, No. 73; tomato sauce, No. 89; paprika sauce, No. 86; or (with lamb) fennel sauce, No. 78.

    Serve cold after pressing between two plates with a heavy weight on top. Leave until cold, remove the string and glaze, see No. 717. Cut in slices to serve.

  632. Boiled beef with horse-radish sauce

    Cooking time 2 hours

    Quantities for 8-10 helpings:
    1½-2 pt. water (3-4 c.)1 parsnip
    2-2½ lb. brisket beef (1 kg.)1 stalk of celery
    ½ Tbs. salt1 onion
    1 carrot5 whole allspice

    Measures level. Heat just enough water to cover the meat and when it is boiling add the meat and other ingredients. Cook until tender. Serve the meat sliced and surrounded by the vegetables. Use the stock to make horse-radish sauce, No. 80 or use half stock and half milk. Serve with boild potatoes and some extra vgetables.

  633. Chicken blanquette

    Cooking time ¾ hour

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    1 boiling fowl, cookedBouquet garni, see No. 12
    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)8 small onions
    2 oz. flour (6 Tbs.)¼-½ lb. button mushrooms (125-250 g.)
    1 pt. stock (2 c.)2 Tbs. chopped parsley
    Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Make a sauce by the Roux method, see No. 69, using the fat, flour, stock and seasonings. Add the onions and the mushrooms, including the chopped stalks. Cook gently for ¾ hour. Add the chicken which has been jointed and, if preferred, removed from the bone. Heat gently without boiling until the chicken is heated through. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

  634. Creamed rabbit

    (for vol-au-vent, patties or to serve in a border of potato). Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Quantities for 6 helpings:
    1 boiled rabbit, see No. 336.4 Tbs. flour
    1 medium onion, chopped¾ pt. rabbit stock (1½ c.)
    2 rashers bacon, choppedSalt and pepper
    2 stalks celery, chopped1 Tbs. lemon juice
    1 oz. margarine or dripping (25 g.)2 Tbs. chopped parsley

    Measures level. Fry the vegetables and bacon in the fat for a few minutes without browning. Add the flour and mix well. Add the stock and stir until it boils. Boil for at least 10 minutes. Cut the meat off the bone and dice it. Season the sauce well, add the meat and heat for 10 minutes without boiling. Add the parsley and serve.

  635. Veal galantine

    Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Quantities for 12 helpings:
    3 lb. breast of veal (1½ kg.)1 lb. pork sausage-meat (500 g.)
    ½ tsp. salt3 hard-boiled eggs
    Sprig of parsley2 Tbs. gelatine
    Sprig of thymeGravy browning
    ½ bay leaf½ lb. gammon bacon (250 g.)

    Measures level. Bone the veal. Put the bones in a pan with cold water and cover. Add the salt, parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. Cut the bacon in cubes and mix with the sausage meat. Put the veal on a board, skin-side down and spread with half the sausage-meat. Add the sliced aggs and the rest of the sausage-meat. Roll up and tie in a clean cloth. Place in the stock and simmer for 2-3 hours or until tender. Take out the meat, tighten the cloth and press betwen two dishes with a weight on top. Leave until cold. Dissolve the gelatine in 1½ pt. (3 c.) of the stock and boil quickly until reduced to ½ pt. ( 1c.). Add a few drops of browning and cool. Brush thickly over the galantine.

    Stews and casseroles

  636. General information

    Stews and casseroles are amongst the simplest and most useful meat dishes. They are economical because the cheapest cuts of meat can be used and although the cooking time is long, very little fuel is required; and yet they can be rich and savoury and you need not be ashamed to serve them at any meal. Stews and caseroles include ragoûts, curries, hot pots, goulash, jugged hare and many other well-known dishes. They all depend for their success on the following three impotant points.

    1. The use of very little liquid so that the gravy is rich and full of flavour.
    2. Good flavouring. The use of vegetables, herbs and spices combine with the meat for a savoury flavour.
    3. Long, slow cooking. A stew should never be allowed to boil. It should simmer, which is below boiling and just keeps the surface of the liquid agitated, with an occasional bubble showing. Most stews need at least 2 hours cooking, preferably 3 hours or longer, as the long cooking gives a rich flavour. This is most easily done in a casserole in the oven, 300°F (150°C) or Mark 1. You can arrange to cook other dishes with it and not waste the oven space. Most casseroles are sufficiently attractive to go to the table, so you save on washing-up too.
    4. If you cook the stew in a saucepan on top of the stove you may find a thickened liquid tends to catch, unless you have a thick pan and gentle heat. In that case it is better to thicken the liquid by the blending method, No. 95, after cooking is finished.

    Any of the recipes for stews are suitable for a pressure cooker, allowing about 20 minutes or according to the instructions for stewing given with the cooker. It is always better to thicken these stews after cooking is finished, otherwise they will stick and burn.

  637. Quickly prepared casserole or stew

  638. To save time in preparation use condensed soups and/or canned vegetables in place of fresh vegetables, stock and thickening. Wine, beer, cider, herbs and other seasonings can be added to taste. The fresh meat is cut up and browned in hot oil or fat in the usual way, then the condensed soup, diluted with half a can of stock, water or milk is added and the whole stewed gently as in No. 345. Canned vegetables are either added with the soup or put in near the end of the cooking. Frozen peas and other frozen vegetables make a useful addition, as so canned tomatoes, juice or paste and canned red peppers, beans or mushrooms.

    Suggestions:
    BEEF: with condensed oxtail, vegetable, beans with bacon, minestrone ot tomato soup.
    LAMB: with tomato, cream of celery, Scotch broth or green pea soup.
    CHICKEN: with cream of mushroom, asparagus, cream of tomato soup

  639. Basic brown or white stew

    Cooking time 3 hours or longer.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. meat without bone (500 g.) or 1½ lb. meat with bone (750 g.)¾ pt. stock or water (1½ c.) or use some beer, wine or cider
    3 Tbs. flourPinch of thyme
    1 lb. mixed vegetables (500 g.)1 bay leaf
    2 oz. fat or oil (50 g. or 4 Tbs.)Sprig of parsley
    1 Tsp. saltPinch of pepper

    Measures level.

    1. Cut the meat in pieces, removeing as much fat as possible.
    2. Prepare and slice or dice the vegetables.
    3. Put the flour in a paper or polythene bag and shake the meat in it until well coated.
    4. Heat the fat or oil and fry the meat brown; add the vegetables and fry for a dew minutes longer.
    5. Add any remaining flour andthne stir in the liquid and seasonings. Cook slowly until the meat is tender. Add gravy browning if necessary for a good rich colour.
    6. If dumplings are added they should go in half an hour nefore serving, see No. 806.
    7. Serve with boild or mashed potatoes and a green vegetable.

    White stew

    1. Melt the fat in a saucepan and stir in the flour, cooking until it turns yellow.
    2. Add the liquid and mix well.
    3. Add the remaining ingredients and cook very slowly until tender.
  640. Casserole of tripe

  641. Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. dressed tripe (500 g.)½ tsp. mixed dried herbs
    1 oz. lard or dripping (25 g.)¼ tsp, each of ground ginger, nutmeg and cloves
    2 Tbs. flourPinch of cayenne pepper
    ¾ pt. stock (1½ c.)1 tsp. salt
    2 carrots1 tsp. chopped marjoram
    2 turnips2 Tbs. grated cheese
    2 sticks celery1 onion

    Measures level. Cut the tripe in pieces about 2 inches (5 cm.) square and cook as for white stew, No. 347. Serve with the marjoram and cheese sprinkled on top. Boiled potatoes go with it.

  642. Goulash

  643. (beef, veal or lamb). Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    2 onions, slicedPinch of carraway seeds
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)½ c. stock
    1 lb. lean meat (500 g.)1-1½ lb. potatoes (4-6 medium)
    2 tsp. paprika pepper1 tsp. salt
    ¼ c. tomato juice or 2 tomatoes

    Measures level. Fry the onions and fat in a saucepan. cut the meat in 1-2 inch (2-5 cm.) cubes and add to them onions. Cook until brown and then add all the other ingredients except the potatoes. Cover and cook very slowly fo 2-3 hours. It may need a little more stock during cooking. Boil the potatoes for 15-20 minutes and cut them in quarters. Add them to the ghoulash for the last 10 minutes cooking. Mix carefully. Serve with boiled cabbage.

  644. Curry

  645. Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
    2 lb. beef or mutton (no bone) (1 kg.) or 1 rabbit2 oz. fat (50 g.)
    6 Tbs. flour2 Tbs. curry powder
    6 Tbs. flour¾ pt. stock (1½ c.)
    2 tsp. saltRind and juice of ½ lemon
    2 medium-sized onions1 tsp. brown sugar
    ½ clove garlic1 Tbs. dessicated coconut
    2 apples1 tomato

    Measures level. Cut the meat in pieces and roll them in the flour and salt mixed together.

    Chop the onions, garlic, apple and tomato. Heat the dripping in a saucepan and fry the vegetables and meat. Pour off any excess fat. Add the curry powder and any flour left. Mix well and stir in the stock. Add gravy browning if a darker curry is preferred. Add the lemon juice, cocnut, fruit and sugar and cook slowly for 2-3 hours. Serve with boiled rice and chutney. Follow with salad.

  646. Jugged hare, rabbit, venison or pigeons

  647. Cooking time 3-4 hours

    Temperature 300°F (150° C) Mark 1

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
    1 hare or 2 small rabbits or 2-3 pigeons or 2 lb. venison ( 1kg.)1 tsp. grated lemon rind.
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)
    2 onions, sliced4 Tbs. flour
    Bouquet garni½ pt. stock (1 c.)
    2 onions, sliced¼ pt. vinegar (½ c.)
    6 cloves½ pt. red wine, cider or beer (1 c.)
    3 whole allspiceForcemeat balls, No. 135 or used packet stuffing
    Pinch of pepper2 tsp. salt

    Measures level. Joint the meat and fry the pieces brown in the dripping. Put in a casserole with the onion and seasonings. Melt the butter or margarine and add the flour. Mix well and stir in the liquid. Stir until it boils and pour over the hare. Cover and cook in a slow oven for 3-4 hours.

    Serve with fried forcemeat balls, boiled potatoes, red currant jelly and any vegetable.

  648. Les carbonnades flamandes

  649. (steak stewed with beer). Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
    2 lb steak (1 kg.)¾ pt. beer (1½ c.)
    4 Tbs. flour¼ clove garlic, chopped
    3 tsp. saltBouquet garni
    Pinch of pepper1 tsp. sugar
    2 oz. fat (50 g.)2 Tbs. vinegar
    1 lb. onions, sliced (500 g.)

    Measures level. Cut the steak in slices about ½ inch (1 cm.) thick and 3 inches (8 cm.) square. Coat them well in the flour, salt and pepper. Fry the meat in the fat until bown. Transfer to the casserole and fry the onions. Add the rest of the flour and mix well. Pour the beer into the frying pan and stir until it boils. Pout over the meat and add the garlic, bouquet garni and sugar. Cover and cook slowly for 2-3 hours. Add the vinegar just before serving.

    Serve with boild potatoes. Follow with a salad.

  650. Stewed ox-tail

  651. Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Quantities for 5-6 helpings:
    1 ox-tail1 carrot, sliced
    4 Tbs. flour1 stick celery, chopped
    2 tsp. saltBouquet garni
    Punch of pepper1 small turnip, sliced
    2 oz. fat (50 g.)1 pt. stock or water (2 c.)
    1 onion, sliced

    Measures level. Joint the ox-tail and cook as for brown stew, No. 347. Cook slowly for 2-3 hours or until the meat will easily leave the bones. Serve with boiled popatoes and a green vegetable.

  652. Liver provençale

  653. Cooking time 35 minutes

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    2 oz. bacon (50 g.)2 Tbs. flour
    1 lb. onions (500 g.)½ pt. stock (1 c.)
    2 tsp. salt1 lb. sheep's liver (500 g.)
    PepperChopped parsley

    Measures level. Cut the bacon in small pieces and fry it gently, adding a little fat if the bacon is lean. Remove the bacon. Slice the onions and fry them in the fat until they are just beginning to colour. Add the seasoning, using less salt if the bacon is salty. Add the flour and mix well. Add the stock and stirt until it boils. Return the bacon and add the liver cut in small pieces. Cover and simmer for ½ hour. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

  654. Ragoût of kidneys

  655. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    6 lamb's or 4 veal kidneys½ Tbs. chopped onion
    Salt and pepper¾ pt. stock (1½ c.)
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)2 oz. mushrooms (50 g.)
    3 Tbs. flour

    Measures level. Skin and trim the kidneys and cut in slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt the fat and fry the kidneys for 5 minutes. Remove and keep hot. Brown the onion in the fat, add the flour and mix well. Cook for a few minutes and add the stock. Stir until it boils and then add the sliced mushrooms. Return the kidneys and cook for a few minutes longer. Serve in a border of mashed potatoes.

  656. Beef-steak stewed with olives

  657. Cooking time 1½-2 hours

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1½ lb. stewing steak (750 g.)½ a red or green sweet pepper, chopped
    1 oz. fat or oil (25 g. or 2 Tbs.)¼-½ pt. tomato juice (½-1 c.)
    1 onion, chopped3 oz. olivs, sliced (75 g.)

    Measures level. Cut the steak in small pieces, removing fat. Fry the meat and onions in the fat or oil until they begin to brown. Add the olives and sweet pepper and enough tomato juice to moisten. Cover and cook gently on top of, or in the oven until the meat is tender, adding more tomato juice as necessary. No salt or pepper is needed but garlic may be added to taste. Serve with either boiled potatoes, rice or noodles.

  658. Beef rolls

  659. Cooking time about 1 hour.

    Temperature 350° F. (180° C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
    1 lb. topside beef, cut in thin slices (500 g.)¼ pt. red wine (½ c.)
    4 bacon rashers¼ pt. stock (½ c.)
    Fresh sage leaves or dried sage2 Tbs. tomato paste
    2 oz. fat or oil (50 g. or 4 Tbs.)Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Cut the beef slices in 8-12 pieces and cut the bacon pieces slightly smaller. Put a piece of bacon on each slice of beef and a sage leaf or pinch of dried sage on top. Roll it up and secure with string or a cocktail stick. Heat fat or oil and fry the rolls brown. Put the rolls in a casserole with the wine, stock, tomato paste blended with 2 Tbs. water and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer until the meat is tender. Remove the strings before serving.

  660. Casserole of pork with apple sauce

  661. Cooking time 1½ hours.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    1½ lb. boneless pork (750 g.)Pinch of fresh or dried rosemary
    2 onions, peeled and sliced2 chopped fresh or dried sage leaves
    2 Tbs. flour¼-½ pt. white wine (½-1 c.)
    1 tsp saltApple sauce, No. 108, or use canned
    ½ tsp. dried mustardPinch of dried ginger

    Measures level. Trim any fat from the meat, cut meat in small pieces and coat in in the flour, salt, pepper and mustard mixed. Heat the pieces of fat in a pan until the fat flows, or heat some lard. Fry first the onion and then the meat until brown. Transfer to a casserole and add the herbs. Swill out the pan with the wine and pur it over the meat. Cover and cook until tender. Serve with apple sauce.

  662. Veal olives

  663. Cooking time 1¼ hours.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. fillet veal (500 g.)3 Tbs. flour
    Veal forcemeat, No. 135⅔ pt. stock (1½ c.)
    2 Tbs. flour1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)1 tsp. salt
    Pinch of pepper

    Measures level. Have the veal cut in 4 thin slices about 4 x 3 inches (10 x 8 cm.). Spread each with some of the forcemeat and roll up tightly. Fasten with a wooden toothpick or tie with fie white string. Melt the fat in a pan and fry theonion and meat until brown all over. Remove and place in a casserole. Add the flour and mix well. Add the stock and stir until it boils. Add parsley and seasoning and pour over the olives. Cover and cook very gently until tender, about 1 hour. Remove string or tooth-picks and arrange on a dish. Pour the sauce over and serve with mashed potatoes and spinach or peas.

  664. Chicken casserole

  665. Cooking time 2½-3 hours.

    Temperature 300°F. (150°C.) Mark 1

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    1 chicken or boiler, jointed2 sticks celery, chopped
    3 Tbs. flour2-3 carrots, sliced
    2 tsp. salt2 Tbs. tomato paste
    Pinch of pepper½ pt. water or stock (1 c.)
    1-2 oz. fat (25-50 g.)8 oz. rice (250 g.)
    12 small onions

    Measures level. Dredge the pieces of chicken with flour and seasoning. Fry in the fat until brown. Place in a casserole with the onions, celery and carrots. Add the tomato and liquid. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Serve with the rice, boiled, see No. 613.

  666. Paprika chicken

  667. Cooking time 1-2 hours.

    Quantities for 4-6 portions:
    1 oz. oil or lard (2 Tbs. or 25g.)2 tomatoes or 2 tsp. purée
    1 large onion, sliced2 Tbs. sour cream or yogurt
    1 tsp. paprika pepper1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    1 tsp. salt1 small chicken

    Measures level. Melt the lard and fry the onion in it for a few minutes. Cut the chicken in pieces and add to the onions, together with the paprika. Fry for a few minutes. Add salt and tomatoes. Cover and cook until tender, adding a little water if necessary. It will take 1-2 hours, depending on the age of the chicken. Add the cream or yogurt and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

  668. Veal blanquette

  669. Cooking time 1½-2 hours.

    Quantities for 6 helpings:
    2 lb. breast of veal or pie veal (1 kg.)1 oz. cornflour (3 Tbs.)
    6 small onions or shallots1 pt. water (2 c.)
    Bouquet garni1 egg yolk
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)2 Tbs. cream
    2 Tbs. lemon juiceChopped parsley

    Measures level. Cut the meat in small pieces and skin the onions. Melt the flour or margarine in a stew-pan and add the cornflour. Mix and cook for a few minutes. Add the water and stir until it boils. Add the meat, onions and bouquet garni, cover and cook gently on top or in the oven until the meat is tender. Remove the bouquet garni. Mix egg, cream and lemon. Add to it a spoonful of the source from the meat, mix and stir intol the meat, stirring until it thickens but do not allow to boil. Serve with chopped parsley to garnish.

  670. Mutton or lamb casserole

  671. Cooking time 1½-2 hours.

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings:
    1 lb. lean lamb or mutton without bone (500 g.)1 Tbs. parsley
    Seasoned flour⅛ pt. stock (¼ c.)
    1 oz. butter or maragine⅛ pt. cider (¼ c.)
    1 small chopped onion2 tsp. Worcester sauce
    ½ clove chopped garlicSalt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. Cut the meat in small pieces and coat it with seasoned flour. Heat the butter or margarine and fry the meat until brown. Remove meat to a casserole and add the onion, garlic and parsley. Add stock, cider and sauce to the frying pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour over the meat and cook gently until the meat is tender. Taste the sauce for seasoning.

  672. Spanish cutlets

  673. Cooking time ½-¾ hours.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 oz. fat1 onion, sliced
    4 lamb cutlets1 lb. tomatoes, sliced (500 g.)
    Salt and pepper8 small sausages
    1 rasher bacon, chopped

    Measures level. Trim the cutlets, removing as much fat as possible. Fry brown in the dripping. Place in a casserole and season with salt and pepper. Fry the onions and bacon in the same fat and, when the onion begins to brown, add the tomatoes. Cook for 10 minutes. Add to the cutlets and cook in a moderate oven for ¾ hour, with the lid on the casserole. Bake the sausages separately and serve with the meat and tomatoes. Serve with baked or mashed potatoes.

  674. Spiced steak

  675. Cooking time 1½ hours.

    Temperature 325° F. (160° C.) Mark 2.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 lb. beef steak (500 g.)1 onion, sliced
    Salt and pepper¼ bay leaf
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)½ tsp. grated nutmeg

    Measures level. Beat the steak well to flatten it and then season with salt and pepper. Fry in the dripping until well browned on both sides. Add the onion, bat leaf and nutmeg. Cover with a fitting lid and cook slowly for 1½ hours. If necessary, add a very little water during cooking. Cooking may be in the oven or on top. Serve with mashed potatoes and any green vegetable.

    Grilling

  676. General information

  677. As already mentioned in No. 321, only the most tender cuts of meat are suitable for grilling. For suitable meat see Nos. 325-30.
  678. Grilled beef steak

    1. The meat should be cut across the grain and not more than an inch thick. It is generally grilled in pieces weighing about 6 oz. (175 g.), but it is also often cut in pieces about 2 inches (5 cm.) square. These are called tournedos, mignons or noisettes and may be tied with string to keep them in shape. Fat should be left on as this helps to keep the meat moist during cooking. The fat should be cut through at intervals and so should any skin round the meat. This is because the fat and the skin shrink more than the meat and, if not cut, will make it curl up instead of staying flat. Beating well with the handle of a rolling pin, or the edge of a saucer, a couple of hours before grilling helps to make the steak tender. If the meat is very lean it should be brushed with melted butter or olive oil. For marinated steak see No. 369.
    2. Heat the grill very thoroughly and, if using an open fire, it should be clear and red. Grease the bars of the grilling rack.
    3. Place the prepared steak on the rack and cook 1 minute each side. The heat should be fierce enough to give the meat a good coating of brown in this time. Then reduce the heat slightly and continue to cook, turning it every 2 minutes. Do not pierce with a fork during turning or the juice will escape.
    4. The steak will take from 10 to 20 minutes, depending on its thickness and whether you like it well or lightly done. The usual test is to press the steak lightly and if it resists the pressure but still feels spongy, it is ready. Another indication is given by small beads of blood which appear on the surface when the steak is done.
    5. Serve at once on a very hot dish with the vegetables and garnish, which you will have prepared in advance so as not to keep the steak waiting. If a sauce is to be served with it, put it in a sauce-boat, not over the steak, as this makes the meat flabby. The only garnish which goes straight on the meat is parsley butter, No. 123, or a grating of horse-radish.
    6. The following are suitable accompaniments for grilled steak: fried or mashed potatoes, fried onions, fried or grilled mushrooms or tomatoes, watercress, lettuce, peas, beans, diced carrots, spinach, cauliflower, spaghetti, noodles, parsley butter, No. 123; watercress butter, No. 124; grated horse-radish; mushroom sauce, No. 83; onion sauce, No. 85.
  679. Tournedos vert pré

  680. Grill tournedos as described in No. 367 for steak and serve with parsley butter, No. 123, on top. Surround with alternate heaps of straw potatoes, No. 517, and watercress.
  681. Marinated beef steak

  682. For each pound (500 g.) of steak allow 1 Tbs. olive oil, 1 Tbs vinegar, salt and pepper.

    Mix the oil, vinegar and seasoning and let the steak lie in this for 24 hours, turning occasionally. Then grill in the usual way. see No. 367.

  683. Grilled white meat (veal, lamb, pork, chicken)

  684. The only difference between these and grilled beef steak is that white meat needs cooking more slowly and thoroughly and the browning and cookingshould be finished together.

    Lamb cutlets, 7-10 minutes.
    Lamb chops, 10-20 minutes.
    Pork or veal chops, 10-20 minutes.
    Spring chicken (skewered out flat), 20 minutes.

    White meat needs constant basting with melted fat or oil or with a basting sauce, No. 122. It is served with the same garnishes and vegetables as steak.

  685. Lamb chops with cucumber

  686. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 medium sized cucumber½ tsp. salt
    1 oz. margarine or butter (25 g.)Pinch of pepper
    4 lamb chops

    Measures level. Peel the cucumber and cut in dice. Melt the fat in a saucepan, add the cucumber, cover and cook gently until tender. Add the seasoning. While the cucumber is cooking, grill the chops, see No. 370. Put the cucumber in the centre of a serving-dish and arrange the chops round it.

  687. Lamb shashlik

  688. Cooking time 15 minutes.

    Quantities for 3 helpings:
    1 lb. lamb from leg or shoulder (500 g.)Juice of 1 lemon
    1 small onion1 Tbs. wine or cider
    ½ tsp. salt6 or 8 small tomatoes
    Pinch pepper6 or 8 small mushrooms

    Measures level. Cut the meat in 1½ inch (4 cm.) cubes, trimming off most of the fat. Place in a bowl with the sliced onion, seasoning, lemon juice and wine. Stand overnight. Put the meat on skewers, alternating pieces of meat with a small, whole tomato or mushroom. Grill for 15 minutes and serve on the skewers. Serve with vegetables and potatoes or savoury rice (Risotto, No. 615)

  689. Grilled liver and kidneys

  690. Cooking time 5-10 minutes.

    Cut the liver in slices and leave the kidneys whole, or, if large, cut in half and skewered out flat. Grill fairly slowly and keep basted with fat. They are cooked when small beads of blood appear on the surface. Serve with grilled bacon or as part of a mixed grill.

  691. Kidneys en brochette

  692. Slice and thread on skewers, alternately with bacon and mushrooms. Grill and serve with fried potatoes and water-cress.
  693. Grilled bacon

  694. Cooking time 3-5 minutes. Gammon rasher 10-20 minutes, depending on thickness.

    Remove the rind. With a gammon rasher cut the fat at intervals to prevent the rasher from curling up during cooking. Grill fairly slowly until the fat is clear.

  695. Grilled sausages

  696. Cooking time 10-20 minutes.

    Grill fairly slowly, turning frequently, until well browned. Serve with grilled bacon, mashed or fried potatoes, any vegetable and apple, onion or bread sauce.

  697. Kebabs

  698. Cooking time 20 minutes more or less according to ingredients. Meat is grilled on skewers of a special kind, and is similar to shashlik No. 372. The kebabs can be cooked under a grill, over an open fire or on a rotisserie. The meat, which should be tender, is cut in pieces about an inch (3 cm.) or more cubed. Suitable meats are lamb, beef, pork, liver, kidney, bacon, ham, sausages or chicken. Pieces of fruit or vegetable are alternated with the meat, for example, tomatoes, sweet pepper, pineapple, onions, bay leaves, mushrooms, pieces of apple. The kebabs are brushed with oil or with one of the basting sauces, see No. 122. They can be served with vegetables but the tradistional accompaniment is rice.

    Frying

  699. General information

  700. As already mentioned in No. 321, only the most tender cuts of meat are suitable for frying. For suitable meat, see Nos. 325-30. You will also find general instructions for frying in the chapter on fats, Nos. 148-9.
  701. Fried beef steak

    1. Prepare the steak as described for grilling, No. 367, except that there is no need to brush with oil or fat and the meat can be cut in thinner slices.
    2. Use a thick frying-pan and heat in it a very little lard, dripping or oil. When it is very hot put in the steak and brown for 1 minute each side. Keep cooking over a fierce heat, turning every minute or two. Cooking times are the same as for grilling. Minute steaks 1 minute each side.
    3. Serve on a hot dish with any of the vegetables and garnishes given for grilled steak. The frying-pan is generally swilled out with a little liquid, such as wine, lemon juice or mushroom stock and the liquid poured over the meat.
  702. Fried steak and onions

  703. Cooking time 10-15 minutes for the onions and 5-15 minutes for the steak depending on its thickness and whether it is preferred well-done or rare.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1-2 lb. rump steak (½-1 kg.)Salt and pepper
    1½ lb. onions (750 g.)Butter

    Cut the meat in four portions. Trim off excess fat and cut the fat in small pieces. Skin and slice onions thinly. Season the meat. Put the chopped fat in a heavy frying pan dand heat gently until the fat runs, or use other frying fat. Remove fat and add onions. Reduce the heat and cook slowly, stirring frequently until the onions are tender and lightly browned. Remove and keep hot. Put a small knob of butter in the pan and turn up the heat. When the butter begins to brown add the steaks. Brown each side quickly and continue to cook over a good heat, turning every minute, until the meat is cooked to taste. Put on a hot dish with the onions. Add a little water or stock to the pan and simmer until all the sediment is dissolved. Pour over the meat and serve.

  704. Fried lamb cutlets

  705. These are trimmed from the best end of neck and all the surplus fat should be trimmed off, leaving about an inch of clean bone. Beat the cutlets to flatten them a little and then dip in eff and breadcrumbs and fry in deep fat as described in No. 149.

    Serve with any vegetables and a sauce, such as onion, No. 85; tomato, No. 89; brown, No. 73 or mushroom No. 82.

  706. Fried chops (veal, lamb or pork)

  707. These are fried in the same way as steak, but the cooking should be much slower, taking at least 20 minutes. After the meat has browned on both sides, reduced the heat and finish the cooking mre slowly. It is oftn an improvement to cover the pan with a lid and let the steam help to cook the meat. When the meat is cooked, gravy may be made in the pan by the Roux method, as decribed for roast meat in No. 79.

    With pork chops serve: mashed or fried potatoes. Onions, carrots, celery, tomatoes or turnips. Fried apple rings or tart jelly.

    With lamb chops serve: mashed or fried potatoes. Spinach, peas, beans, tomatoes or mushrooms.

    With veal chops serve: mashed or fried potatoes, macaroni or spaghetti. Tomatoes, carrots, celery or beans. Tomato sauce, No. 89; apple sauce, No. 108 or lemon.

  708. Fried liver, kidneys, bacon and sausages

  709. The same rules apply as for grilling, see No. 373. Gravy may be made in the pan in the same way as for roast meat, see No. 79.
  710. Escalopes of veal

  711. These are very thin slices of meat cut from the fillet and are delicious fried, either plain or coated with agg and bread-crumbs. The veal should be pounded well to flatten it before cooking and it is then fried in butter or oil until brown on both sides.

    Serve with any of the vegetables and accompaniments given for veal chops, No. 382.

  712. Escalopes of veal with lemon

  713. Fry the uncoated veal in butter. Remove from the pan and keep hot. Add a very little hot water to the pan and boil hard for a minute or two. Then for every four escalopes, add the juice of ½ lemon and pour over the meat.
  714. Wiener schnitzel

  715. Coat veal escalopes in egg and bread-crumbs and fry in butter or hot fat. Serve with slices of lemon and anchovy on each escalope. Other garnishes sometimes used are oilves, hard-boiled eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes.
  716. Chicken sauté

  717. Cooking time 40-45 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    4 pieces of frying chicken1 Tbs. chopped green pepper.
    Seasoned flour2 sliced tomatoes
    Butter or oil for frying1 rasher bacon, chopped
    ⅛ pt. red wine1 small onion, chopped
    2 oz. sliced mushrooms (50 g.)

    Wash and dry the chicken pieces. Coat them in seasoned flour. Fry in a little butter or oil until the pieces are brown on both sides. Pour off surplus fat, add the other ingredients and simmer for 30 minutes or until the chicken is tender. It helps to cover the pan with a lid of foil and if the pan becomes too dry moisten with a little stock or wine.

  718. Liver and onions with red wine

  719. Cooking time 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 onion, thinly slicedSalt and pepper
    4 Tbs. oli1 oz. flour (3 Tbs.)
    1 lb. lamb's or calf's liver (500 g.)¼ pt. red wine

    Measures level. Heat the oil and fry the onion until tender, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the liver with salt and pepper and toss in flour to coat it well. Remove the onion and keep hot. Fry the liver quickly, 2-3 minutes each side. Return the onion, add the red wine and cook at high heat for a minute. Serve at once with boiled potatoes and lettuce salad, No. 563.

  720. Pork cutlets à la charcutière

  721. Cooking time 30-49 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:
    1 oz. lard or butter (25 g.)½ tsp. salt
    1 large onion, chopped4 peppercorns
    1 Tbs. flour4 Tbs. chopped gherkins
    ½ pt. stock (1 c.)1 tsp. French mustard
    ¼ white wine or cider (½ c.)4 pork cutlets

    Measures level. Melt the fat in a saucepan and add the onion. Cook until tender without browning. Add the flour and mix well. Cook until yellow. Add the stock and wine or cider and the salt and peppercorns. Boil gently for 30-40 minutes. Just before serving add the gherkins and mustard. Grill or fry the cutlets for 20-25 minutes. Put on a dish and pour the sauce over. Serve with mashed potato, No. 511.

    Roasting

  722. General information

  723. There are many different methods used for roasting meat but the two most useful are low-temperature and high-temperature roasting.

    Low temperature roasting 350°F (180 °C) Mark 3.

    This is the best method because it gives tender, juicy results, even with less expensive cuts such as those listed as suitable for pot roasting and braising, see Nos. 325-30. In addition the oven is not splashed by the fat.

    Put the meat in a roasting pan; if it is lean add some extra fat or dripping. Very lean meat like veal, game and poultry needs to have either a piece of pork or bacon fat put on top or a loose lid of foil. Remove this for the last half hour to allow browning.

    When the meat is cooked (for times see No. 391), lift it out and put to keep hot while making gravy by the Roux method as in No. 79.

    To cook Yorkshire pudding and brown roast potatoes raise the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C) Mark 8 for the last half hour of cooking. It is better to have the potatoes in a separate tin and not round the meat. If desired the meat can be left in during this high-temperature cooking.

    High temperature roasting 425-450°F (220-230 °C) Mark 7-8.

    This is the best method to use when pastry and pies are being cooked with the meat. Fot this kind of roasting it is advisable to use a covered roasting pan or to wrap the meat in foil or cooking film. This prevents fat from the meat from splashing on the oven walls, which is inevitable at high temperatures. The cover may need to be removed for the last half hour to allow browning.

    When the meat is cooked make gravy by the Roux method, see No. 79.

    High temperature roasting is also used when the meat is preferred under-done but with a well browned exterior. In this case the meat is not covered. The method is ony suitable for the more expensive cuts of beef such as rump roasts and sirloin on the bone.

    Roasting pork 375°F (190 °C) Mark 5.

    Pork needs special treatment to ensure good, crisp crackling. It should not be covered during roasting and should be placed on a rack in such a way that the skin is kept above the drippings. Rubbing the skin with salt or brushing it with oil helps to give crisp crackling.

    Roast potatoes should brown readily at this temperature.

    Using a rôtisserie or spit-roasting

    This method is suitable for boned and rolled ribs of beef, thick pieces of steak, legs of lamb, chicken and other birds, and any cuts of an even shape. It is also excellent for kebabs, No. 377 and Shashlik, No. 372. The meat does not need to be basted unless it is very lean and then the better method is to tie a piece of fat over the lean meat to act as a self-baster. Alternatively, brush the meat with melted butter or oil, or with basting sauce, No. 122, at the beginning of cooking and during cooking too if it seems necessary.

    Cooking times recommended by the makers of rôtisserie should be followed but are generally the same as for low-temperature roasting.

  724. Roasting time table

  725. The times given below are for joints between 3 and 8 lb. in weight (1½-4 kg.). With boned joints weighing less than 3 lb. you should allow 1½-2 hours. With the exception of small chickens and game birds and small loin roasts of lamb, veal or pork, very small pieces of meat are not really satisfactory roasted and I would advise instead braising, No. 404 or pot roasting, No. 403. All boned and rolled or stuffed meat should be cooked very thoroughly to avoid any danger of food poisoning caused by infection introduced during boning. Pork should always be thoroughly cooked and lamb and veal are usually considered indigestible and unpalatable if under-done. Chicken and other birds should also be thoroughly cooked particularly when spit-roasted.

    Cooking times
    (for wrapped and unwrapped meat)

    • BEEF: Unboned ribs and thin pieces, 40 minutes per lb. (½ kg.). Boned and rolled and thick pieces, 45 minutes per lb. For under-done meat, use about two thirds of these times.
    • LAMB or MUTTON: 45 minutes per lb. (½ kg.).
    • PORK: Spare ribs and loin 35 minutes per lb. (½ kg.). Leg 20 minutes per lb, (½ kg.).
    • VEAL: Pieces with bone 35 minutes per lb, (½ kg.). Boned and rolled pieces 40 minutes per lb, (½ kg.).
    • CHICKEN, RABBIT, DUCK, BLACKCOCK, GUINEA FOWL: 2 hours.
    • GROUSE or PHEASANT: 1½ hours.
    • TURKEY: Drawn weight 7-10 lb. (3½-5 kg.) 1 hour 40 minutes, 10-12 lb. (5-6 kg.), 4 hours, 15-20 lb. (7½-10 kg.) 4½ hours.)

    Smaller game birds such as teal, quail and woodcock are best cooked at 400°F (200&deag;C) Mark 6 for about 30 minutes. Do not cover.

  726. What to serve with roast meat, poultry, game

    • BEEF. Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetables. Baked parsnips, marrow, pumpkin. Brown gravy, No. 79; horse-radish sauce, No. 80; Yorkshire pudding, No. 79.
    • LAMB or MUTTON. Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetables. Mashed turnips or swedes. Savoury stuffing. Currant jelly, brown gravy, No. 79; onion sauce, No 85.
    • PORK. Boiled, roast or mashed potatoes. Any green vegetables. Celery, onions, tomatoes. Brown gravy. Sage and onion stuffing, No. 133. Baked or fried apples, or apple sauce, No. 108; cranberry sauce, No. 109. Tart jelly.
    • VEAL. Boiled, roast or mashed potatoes. Spinach, tomatoes, onions or beetroot. Veal forcemeat, No. 135; brown gravy, No. 79; boiled or grilled bacon or salt pork.
    • CHICKEN. mashed, fried or roast potatoes. Cauliflower, celery, peas, beans, onions, watercress, green salad. Stuffing, No. 135. Currant jelly. Bread sauce, No. 121; brown gravy, No. 79. Bacon rolls.
    • DUCKLING or DUCK: Boiled or roast potatoes. Peas, carrots, turnips, orange salad, No. 564. Apple sauce, No. 108; Sage and onion stuffing, No. 133; or veal stuffing No. 135. Tart jelly.
    • GOOSE: Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetable. Onions or carrots. Sage and onion stuffing, No. 133; or prune and apple sauce, No. 108; brown gravy, No. 79; currant jelly. Cranberry sauce, No. 109.
    • RABBIT or HARE: Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetable. Onions, carrots. Red-currant jelly. Brown gravy, No. 79. Savoury stuffing.
    • TURKEY: Boiled, fried or roast potatoes. Onions, peas, pumpkin, sprouts. Sausages. Grilled bacon rolls. Cranberry sauce, No. 109; brown gravy, No. 79, stuffing, No. 134; bread sauce, No. 121.
    • GAME: Any of the accompaniments already given for poultry. Game is not usually stuffed for roasting.
    • VENISON: Any potatoes and vegetables. Brown gravy, No. 79. Red-currant jelly.
  727. Re-heating roast meat

  728. Slice the cold meat very thinly and place the pieces, overlapping, ona hot dish. Pour over well-seasoned boiling gravy or sauce. There will be sufficient heat in the sauce to warm the meat. The flavour is spoiled if the meat is re-cooked. Serve at once.
  729. Roast stuffed veal

  730. The most suitable cut to use are the loin or shoulder, which should be boned. Veal forcemeat, No. 135, gives the best flavour. The stuffed loin should be skewered or tied into a roll.

    Another method of stuffing loin is to separate the meat from the bone just enough to make a pocket for the stuffing. Fasten up the opening.

  731. Roast stuffed pork

  732. The most suitable cut sot use are loin or leg. Sage and onion stuffing, No. 133, is the usual one but prune and apple, No. 132 is also very good. The leg should be boned for stuffing but the loin can be boned or not as described for veal, No. 394. To make crisp cracking, rub salt into the skin before roasting.
  733. Roast stuffed lamb

  734. The most suitable cuts are loin, leg or shoulder. The following stuffings are the best: veal forcemeat, No. 135, or mint or watercress, No. 131. The joint is usually boned for stuffing but the loin may be treated as for veal, No. 394.
  735. Savoury roast pork

  736. Score the skin of a 4 lb. (2 kg.) roast in lines ¼ inch (½ cm.) apart. Mix the following seasonings together and rub them well into the pork before roasting in the usual way.

    Measures level.
    ½ tsp. powdered sage¼ tsp. pepper
    ½ tsp. mustard1 finely chopped onion
    ½ tsp. salt

  737. Roasting a boiling fowl

  738. Stuff in the usual way, then roast in a very hot oven, 375°F. (250°C.) Mark 9 until brown. Then steam for 1-2 hours or pressure cook for 15-20 minutes, or until tender. Keep the roasting-pan and fat to make gravy by the Roux method as in No. 79.
  739. Baked bacon or gammon

  740. Specially prepared cuts of gammon or bacon are sold ready for baking and usually with cooking instructions attached; but any cut can be used if it is first boiled for ½ the cooking time, see No. 338. Drain, removed the rind and score the fat in a diamond pattern using the point of a sharp knife. Stick a clove in each diamond, pressed into the fat. Put the meat in a baking dish with a thin layer of treacle, syrup, honey or brown sugar on top, and pour round the meat ½ pt. (1 c.) of either cider, stout or orange juice. Bake at 325°F. (160°C.) Mark 3 for the remainder of the time, basting frequently with the liquid. Serve the liquid as sauce.
  741. Roast pork or veal with orange sauce

  742. Roast a 3½-4 lb. (1½-1¾ kg.) piece of pork or veal. Remove it from the pan and put to keep hot. Pour the fat from the pan leaving the juice behind. Add the juice of 2 oranges to the pan before making the gravy in the usual way, see No. 79.
  743. Baked lamb with rosemary

  744. For a 4-5 lb. (1¾-2¼ kg.) joint of lamb put 2 sprigs of rosemary and 2 bay leaves under the meat. Seasin the meat with salt and pepper and put ¼ pt. stock (½ c.) or white wine in the pan. Baste the meat frequently with the juices to make sure the flavour of the herbs penetrates. Make gravy in the pan in the usual way, see No. 79.

    Pot roasting and braising

  745. General information

  746. These are both useful meathods for treating a joint which is not sufficiently tender for ordinary roasting. For suitable cuts, see Nos. 325-30. They are also very useful ways of cooking the not-so-young gams ena poultry or doe steaks and chops, especially those which require thorough cooking such as veal or pork chops.

    Although both pot roasting and braising were originally carried out in saucepans on top of the stove, they may equally well be done in a slow oven. In both cases the meat is browned in a little fat and then cooked slowly with the lid on. If you want to cooki it in the oven and have no casserole which will stand frying heat, brown the meat ina frying pan and then transfer it to the casserole. If cooking is done on the top of the stove, a heavy pan must be used, otherwise the meat will stick and burn.

    Using a covered roasting pan, see No. 390, gives very similar results to pot roasting.

  747. Pot roasting

    Temperature 325-350°F. (160-180°C.) Mark 3.

    1. Melt enough fat to cover the bottom of the pan. Then fry the meat over a good heat until it is well browned.
    2. Put on the lid, which should be a good fit, and reduce the heat. Cook slowly until tender, turning the joint over occasionally. Allow the same times as for slow roasting, No. 390 with a minimum time of 2 hours for joints weighing less than 3 lb. (1½ kg.). potatoes and vegetables may be cooked round the meat but will not brown.
    3. Lift out the meat and pour off the surplus fat, making the gravy by the Roux method, as described in No. 79. Serve with any of the accompaniments given for roast meat, No. 392.
  748. Braising

    Temperature 325-350°F. (160-180°C.) Mark 3.

    1. Begin by trimming off all surplus fat. You can render this down as described in No. 138. The reason for cutting off the fat it to avoid having the finished dish too greasy, which would make it unappetising and indigestible.
    2. Peel, and dice or slice enough vegetables to make a layer about 2 inches (5 cm) thick on the bottom of the pan. If you want the dish to have a special flavour, use just one vegetable alone, for example onions or tomatoes; or use a mixture of vegetables such as onions, carrots, celery, turnips, tomatoes, parsnips, peas and swedes.
    3. Heat enough fat to cover the bottom of the saucepan. Put in the meat and cook over a good heat until brown all over.
    4. Lift out the meat and fry the vegetables until they are slightly brown. Then pour off the fat.
    5. Put the meat on the bed of vegetables and add just enough stock to moisten, or to come almost level with the top of the layer of vegetables. Add salt and pepper and herbs such as bay leaf, sprig of parsley, and thyme, or their equivalent dried herbs.
    6. Put on a lit which fits tightly and cook very gently until the meat is tender. The times are the same as for roasting, low temperature, No. 390, with a minimum time of 2 hours for a joint weighing less than 3 lb. (1½ kg.), ¾-1 hour for chops, 1½-2 hours for pieces of steak.
    7. Braised meat looks best if cut in slices and arranged on a dish with vegetables round it. Put in a wwarm place while gravy is prepared. First skim off as much fat as possible. The liquid may then be used as it is or thickened with flour by the blending method, see No. 95. Colour with gravy browning according to taste. The same vegetables and accompaniments as for roast meat, No. 392, are suitable for braised meat, game and poultry.
  749. Continental pot roast of beef

  750. Pot roast beef as in No. 403, using olive oil instead of fat. When the meat is cooked, lift it out and pour off the fat. To the remaining juices add ¼ pt. (½ c.) of white or red wine, 1 tablespoon tomato paste, ¼ pt. (½ c.) stock and 12 olives. Boil for a few minutes. Slice the meat and serve with the sauce poured over it.
  751. Pot-roasted chicken

  752. Temperature 350°F. (180°C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    1 chicken1 tsp. salt
    2 oz. butter (50 g.)pinch of pepper

    Measures level. For extra flavour put a sprig of rosemary or tarragon inside the chicken. Melt the butter in a casserole. When hot add the chicken and fry until brown all over. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook gently until tender. Cook the chicken lying on its side and turn two or three times during cooking. Pour the juice and the butter over the chicken before serving. The best way to serve is to carve the chicken and arrange it on a large platter before pouring over the juice. Serve with green peas and new potatoes.

    Minced meat

  753. General information

    Mincing is s very usedful way of making tough meat tender without long, slow cooking. The mincer breaks up tough connecting tissue making the meat easy to chew. An interesting fact about mincing is that the smaller the meat is minced the less natural flavour it has. On the other hand, fine mincing makes a smoother and more tender mixture and herbs ans seasoning can be added for flavour. Either buy lean, ready-minced meat or ask the butcher to mince a piece for you. Unless you have a very efficient or a power-driven mincer, it is very hard work to do it yourself.

    One kind of meat may be used alone, or a mixture of two or more kinds. Fat bacon goes very well with beef and veal, and a mixture of beef, pork and veal is very good. Liver, heart, sausage etc. may be mixed witth the meat to make up the weight.

  754. Minced meat

  755. Cooking time 15 minutes or longer depending on how used.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
    1 lb. lean raw meat (500 g.) (see No. 407)¼ tsp. ground mace
    ½ c. fresh breadcrumbs or 4 Tbs. dried crumbs4-8 Tbs. milk or wine
    1 tsp. saltChopped or dried herbs (marjoram, basil,thyme etc.) to taste
    Pinch of pepper2 Tbs. onion chopped and fried

    Measures level.

    1. Put the meat once or twice through the mincer, or until it is fine enough to hold together smoothly, or buy ready-minced meat.
    2. Add the bread and flavourings. There is no need to fry the onion first if the meat is to be cooked in a loaf or mould for some time although frying does improve the flavour. It is essential to fry the onion for meat cakes and meat balls, otherwise it will not cook in time and there will be raw onion in the middle of the meat cake. Flavourings can be added according to taste and any fresh or dried herbs are suitable, also spices, which can be blended to give individual flavours, or a minute speck of garlic.
    3. Mix well, using a wooden spoon and working until the mixture is smooth, adding liquid as needed. The mixture should be moist without being difficult to handle.
    4. Shape on a board with floured hands and use in any of the ways suggested in Nos. 409-412.
  756. Grilled or fried meat rissoles

  757. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Divide the mixture, No. 408 into eight equal portions and pat and shape each into a flat rissole ½-1 inch thick (1-2 cm.). Do not make them too thick or the outside will be hard before the insides are cooked.

    GRILLED. Cook under a fierce heat until brown and then slowly to finish.

    FRIED. Brown in a little hot fat and finish the cooking more slowly. Keep hot while making gravy in the pan according to No. 79.

    Serve either fried or grilled rissoles with fried or mashed potatoes and any vegetable. Brown gravy, No. 79 or tomato sauce, No. 89. Fried onions.

  758. Baked meat rissoles

  759. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Temperature 450°F. (230°C.) Mark 8.

    Use recipe No. 408. The nicest way of baking is to wrap a thin rasher of streaky bacon round each rissole, fastening it with a toothe-pick or small skewer. Place on slices cut from a large onion and pre-cooked in a little fat for 5 minutes. Serve with fried potatoes and spinach, peas, beans or tomatoes. Gravy may be made in the pan in the same way as for roast meat, see No. 79.

  760. Casserole of pork rissoles

  761. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Temperature 375°F. (190°C.) Mark 5.

    Use pork for the meat in No. 408 and flavour with a pinch each of gound nutmeg, ginger, cloves and mace. Fry brown and put in a casserole. Fry in the same fat:

    1 sliced onion
    2 stalks celery, chopped
    2 tomatoes, chopped

    Add 2 Tbs. flour and mix well and then stir in ½ pt. (1 c.) stock, 1 tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pepper and 2 Tbs. white vinegar. Pour over the meat and cook in a slow oven for ¾ hour. Serve with boiled or baked potatoes and cabbage or other green vegetables.

  762. Meat rissoles jardinière

  763. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Fry the meat rissoles as in No. 409. and serve surrounded with heaps of two different vegetables, such as diced carrots, peas, diced turnip, beans etc.

  764. Swedish meat balls

  765. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Quantities for 20-30 balls

    1 lb. lean raw beef or beef and pork mixed (500 g.)Pinch of pepper
    1 large boiled potato2 Tbs. onion, chopped and fried
    1 tsp. salt¼ ground mace
    4-8 Tbs. milk or water

    Measures level. Mince the meat three times to make it very smooth, or buy ready minced. Add the other ingredients and shape into small balls. Fry in a little hot fat, taking care not to crowd them in the pan and turning until brown all over. Put in a dish to keep hot. Pour 2-3 Tbs. water into the pan and swill it round. Pour over the meat balls. Serve with boiled or browned potatoes and any vegetable.

  766. Meat balls in tomato sauce

  767. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Make according to No. 413 and, when cooked put in ¾ pt. (1½ c.) tomato sauce, No. 89 and heat for a few minutes. Serve with mashed or boiled potatoes and spinach, peas, beans or any green vegetable.

  768. Grilled meat balls with cheese

  769. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Make meat balls from recipe No. 413, leaving out the onion, but adding 2 0z. (50 g.) grated cheese. Thread these on skewers alternately with mushrooms and small tomatoes and grill for 10-15 minutes. Serve with fried potatoes or risotto, No. 615.

  770. Meat loaf

  771. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Temperature 375°F. (190°C.) Mark 5.

    Make according to No. 408, adding a tiny speck of garlic for extra flavour. Shape into a loaf and bake in a moderate oven with a little fat round and a piece of greased paper on top. Remove the paper for the last 10 minutes to allow the top to brown. Make gravy in the pan in the same way as for roast meat, No. 79, or serve the loaf with tomato sauce, No. 89. For serving, cut in slices about ¾ inch (2 cm.) thick. Any vegetables are suitable. Cooking time 2 hours.

  772. Meat shape to serve cold

  773. Make according to recipe No. 408 and put the mixture in a greased basin or stone jar or tin with straight sides. Cover with greased paper and steam for 2 hours. Turn out and roll in dried breadcrumbs and cut in thin slices when cold. This cold shape is nicest if a little bacon is used with the meat. Pork mixture No. 411 also makes a very good loaf and so does a mixture of liver, sausage and bacon.

  774. Moussaka

  775. Cooking time 1 hour.

    Temperature 375°F. (190°C.) Mark 5.

    2-4 oz. butter or margarine (50-125 g.)1½ lb. potatoes (750 g.)
    ¾ lb. minced raw meat (375 g.)4 Tbs. wine
    8 oz. chopped onions (250 g.)2 Tbs. flour
    4 Tbs. chopped parsley½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    8 oz. chopped tomatoes (250 g.)1 egg
    4 Tbs. grated cheese

    Measures level. Melt about 2 oz. (50 g.) butter or margarine and fry in it the meat, onions, parsley and tomatoes. Season well. Grease an 8-inch (20 cm.) cake-tin. Peel and slice the potatoes very thinly. Put a layer of potatoes on the bottom of the tin, add a layer of meat and repeat layers, finishing with potato. Sprinkle with the wine. Melt ½ oz. (1 Tbs.) butter or margarine in a small pan. Add the flour, mix and cook for a minute. Add the milk and stir until it boils and thickens. Remove from the heat and add the slightly beaten egg and grated cheese. Pour over the potato and meat. Bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour. Cut in wedges or squares for serving.

    Using cooked and canned meat

  776. General information

  777. Always bring re-heated meat to boiling point, otherwise there is a danger of food poisoning. Re-heated meat is apt to be tasteless and needs additional flavourings, best provided by a well-seasoned sauce. I have already suggested, in No. 393 how to re-heat roast meat. Cold roast, braised or boiled meat and canned meat such as corned beef or other whole meat may be served with salad or hot vegetables such as browned potatoes, No. 510, or roast potatoes and a vegetable mixed with a well-flavoured sauce. This is an opportunity to use some of the more elaborate vegetable dishes. Chutney, pickles, sweet pickled pears, pickled walnuts ot gherkins all add zest to this sort of meal.
  778. Cold meat hash

  779. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ c. brown sauce, No. 73; or curry sauce, No. 76; or tomato sauce, No. 89, or use a packet sauce or condensed, canned soup
    2 c. minced cooked meat

    Measures level. Make the sauce and heat the meat in it without boiling. Make sure it is well seasoned. A little Worcester sauce or mushroom ketchup improves the flavour. Serve with boiled potatoes and any vegetable.

  780. Shepherd's pie

  781. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Temperature 450°F. (230°C.) Mark 8.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    Meat and sauce as for No. 420
    1½ lb. mashed potatoes (750 g.)

    Measures level. Put the meat and sauce in a pie-dish and cover with the mashed potatoes. Decorate the top by roughing with a fork or piping potato through a forcing tube. Bake in a hot oven until brown on top. This is always nicer if the potatoes are freshly cooked.

    If the sauce and meat are heated before putting the mixture in the dish it can be finished off under the grill instead of going into the oven.

  782. Corned beef hash

  783. Cooking time 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    1 c. diced corned beef1 small onion, sliced
    2 c. diced cooked potatoes1 Tbs. milk
    Fat for frying

    Measures level. Mix the meat and potatoes. Fry the onion brown with the fat. Add the meat mixture and sprinkle over the milk. Stir well and then leave on a very low heat until brown underneath. Fold over. Turn out and serve hot. Follow with a salad.

    Red flannel hash

    Add ½ c. diced cooked beetroot to the mixture No. 422.
  784. Fricassée of cooked veal or poultry

  785. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

    &frac32; lb. cooked diced meat (3 c.)Pinch of nutmeg
    ½ pt. sauce, No. 69 made with meat stock or milk (1 c.)2 egg-yolks
    Salt and pepper to tasteJuice of ½ lemon
    1 Tbs. chopped parsley3 or 4 rolls fried or grilled bacon

    Measures level. Heat the meat in the sauce and season well. Just before serving stir in the eggs and cook for a minute or two longer. Add the lemon and parsley and garnish with the bacon rolls. Serve with mashed potatoes and spinach, peas or carrots.

  786. Fried chicken with almonds

  787. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ¾ lb. cooked chicken without bone (375 g.)4 oz, sliced mushrooms (125 g.)
    Oil for frying1 Tbs. cornflour
    2 oz. blanched almonds (50 g.)¼ pt. stock (½ c.)
    1 small sliced onion or shallot1 tsp. Worcester or soya sauce
    Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Cut the chicken in small pieces. Fry the almonds in a little oil until they are lightly browned. Remove from the pan and fry the chicken, mushrooms and onion until the onion is cooked. Remove from the pan. Mix the cornflour into the remaining fat in the pan, add the stock, sauce and seasoning and stir until it boils. Return the almonds and chicken and make sure it is hot before serving. Rice is a good accompaniment.

    Other recipes using cooked meat are:

    • Meat cakes or rissoles, No. 151
    • Stuffed pancakes, No. 861
    • Meat fritters, No. 867

    Chapter 13 - Vegetables, herbs and salads

  788. Food value

  789. Vegetables are important foods for a number of reasons; they give variety and colour to meals; they are bulky and filling but of a lower carbohydrate and calorific value than many other foods; they contain cellulose which helps maintain peristalsis and prevent constipation and may have a high vitamin and mineral content.

    Green leafy vegetables provide vitamins B and C and carotene while watercress is a good source of calcium and iron. Iron is also found in parsley, mustard and cress and the majority of green vegetables. Carrots are valuable for carotene, peas, beans and lentils for vitamin B and protein and potatoes, especially new ones are a useful source of vitamin C.

    Unfortunately when vegetables are badly cooked a lot of their value is lost. They are drowned in water, over-cooked and the water-soluble nutrients poured down the sink. Quite apart from the loss of food value, this is a foolish method of cooking for it destroys the natural flavour and makes the vegetables unpalatable.

    Canned vegetables lose some of their vitamins and minerals to the liquid and some of the vitamins B and C are destroyed by the high temperatures used in canning. However, canned carrots are still a good source of carotene, canned beans of protein, canned tomatoes of vitamin C and carotene and the others will provide at least some of the nutrients of the original vegetable and probably more than stale and badly cooked fresh vegetables.

    If deep-frozen vegetables are cooked carefully according to the manufacturer's directions their nutritive value compares very favourably with that of fresh ones.

  790. Choosing and keeping fresh vegetables

  791. For maximum flavour and food value take the vegetables straight from the garden to the kitchen. The next best thing is to take care to buy only fresh vegetables and to use them as soon as possible. Good-quality vegetables are crisp and firm but not hard. Those of a medium size are the best, as if too small the flavour will not be fully developed; if too large they will be inclined to be coard and tough. Cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce should be heavy in proportion to their size and should feel solid to the touch.

    If you have to keep green vegetables for any length of time they can be prevented from wilting by putting them in a covered saucepan or other container and standing it on a cool floor. If you have a refrigerator, wash the vegetables, drain well and put them in the drawer provided for this purpose or in a polythene bag. Care must be taken not to freeze them or they will be spoiled. Wilted green vegetables can be revived, if not too far gone, by soaking in cold water for ½ hour and then hanging up in a draught in a wire salad-backet or clean cloth. Some of the goodness and flavour will be lost, so avoid soaking too long. Sometimes washing and putting in the refrigerator will revive them.

    Root vegetables should be kept in a dark, cool, airy place and, if to be stored for any length of time, should be put on ventilated shelves or racks.

  792. Recipe for boiling all fresh vegetables

    (except potatoes, artichokes, whole beetroot and asparagus)

    1. Wash green vegetables thoroughly, separating the leaves of cabbages so as to get them clean without soaking. Cut cauliflower and broccoli into sprigs. Scrub root vegetables and then peel thinly or scrape with a sharp knife. Keep outer leaves of cannage and trimming from other vegetables for the stock-pot, see No. 33.
    2. Slice root vegetables or dice them. Shred green vegetables, except spinach.
    3. Heat about an inch (2½ cm.) of water in a saucepan with one level tsp of salt to each pount (500 g.) of vegetables. When the water is boiling add the vegetables and cover with a lid, which should fit well to keep in the steam needed to help cook the vegetables.
    4. Boil for 10-20 minutes giving the pan an occasional shake to avoid sticking. Do not boil too rapidly or the water will boil away and the pan will burn. Just keep a good, steady boil.
    5. When the vegetables are tender but not mushy, drain off any liquid, keeping for stock.
    6. Serve the vegetables at once, as keeping spoils the flavour and destroys vitamin C.
    7. Melt a little margarine, butter or dripping in the pan and return the vegetables, tossing them for a few minutes to dry out any moisture and mix them well with the fat. They may also be served with sauce, No. 71 made with the vegetable stock alone or with milk added.
  793. Pressure cooking vegetables

  794. All vegetable may be cooked under pressure according to the instructions provided with the cooker. The greatest saving is with vegetables which normally require fairly long cooking. Care must be taken not to exceed the time recommended or the vegetables will be over-cooked, with loss of vitamin C and flavour.
  795. Cooking frozen vegetables

  796. Instructions are usually fiven on the packet, but if not, proceed as follows. Vegetables should be cooked while frozen, the only exception being corn-on-the-cob, whole green peppers and vegetables in large solid packs where partial thawing is necessary to separate the pieces. Use the minimum amount of water for cooking, ¼-½ pint (½-1 c.) for each pound of vegetables (frac12; kg.). Put the vegetables in the slightly salted boiling water and keep the pan on a high heat until the water comes back to the boil. Cooking times are less than with fresh vegetables because frozen vegetables have already been blanched before freezing. Cook until just tender.

    Approximate boiling times are:

    • 3-4 minutes: Brussels sprouts, loose corn, spinach
    • 5-8 minutes: Asparagus, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower sprigs, corn-on-the-cob, peas, sliced runner beans or chopped green beans
    • 12-15 minutes: Broad beans, whole French beans

    Frozen vegetables are also suitable for cooking in fat, No. 433, in a caserole, No. 434, au gratin, No. 432 and in place of fresh vegetables in most recipes.

  797. Using canned vegetables

  798. To serve them as separate vegetables, tip into a pan and heat gently in their own liquid, drain and dress with butter or margarine. Better still, thicken the cold drained liquid as for suace for vegetables, No. 71 or Macedoine, No. 437, and heat the vegetables in the sauce. Also use them for soups, for recipes needing cooked vegetables and in stews and casseroles.

    With some canned peas and beans, the flavour may be better if the vegetables are drained and rinsed before being used. Heat either with a little butter or maragine or in a sauce.

  799. Using dehydrated and accelerated freeze dried vegetables

  800. These are sold in packets with the cooking instructions. The vegetables may be added to soups and casseroles without previous cooking and cooked with the other ingredients. Dried onions and dried mushrooms are particularly useful for this purpose.
  801. Vegetables au gratin

  802. Cooking time ½ hour.
    Temperature 450° F (230° C.) Mark 8.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 - 1½ lb, any vegetable (500-750 g.) fresh, canned or frozenButtered breadcrumbs, No. 876
    ½ pt. cheese sauce No. 75 (1 c.) or use packet sauce

    Boil the vegetables as in No. 427, saving any liquid for the sauce. Put vegetables and sauce in layers in a pie-dish, finishing with a layer of sauce. Cover with buttered breadcrumbs. Brown in a hot oven or under the grill.

  803. Recipe for stewing vegetables in fat

    (suitable for all except potatoes, beetroot and asparagus)

    1. Prepare the vegetables as for No. 427.
    2. Heat sufficient fat (butter, lard, dripping or oil) to cover the bottom of the pan and, when hot but not smoking add the vegetables. Add ½ level tsp. salt for each pound (500 g.) vegetables. Cover with a tightly fitting lid.
    3. Cook over a moderate heat, shaking the pan occasionally. When the vegetables are tender - i about 10-20 minutes - serve with any liquid in the pan. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
    Brown in a hot oven or under the grill.
  804. Baking in a covered dish or casserole

    (suitable for all except green vegetables and potatoes)

    1. Prepare the vegetables as for No. 427.
    2. Put in a casserole with ½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.) to each pound *500 g.) of vegetables, ½ level tsp. salt and a pinch of pepper. Add 1-2 Tbs. water and cover with a fitting lid.
    3. Cook in a slow-moderate oven, 275°-375° F. (140-190°C.) Mark 2-5 for ½-1 hour or until tender. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
  805. Roast vegetables

    (suitable for potatoes carrots, parsnips, pumpkin, turnip, onions, artichokes and swedes )

    1. Peel the vegetables and cut them in pieces or leave whole. Place in the hot fat around a roast joint or in a little hot fat in a separate pan.
    2. Bake in a hot oven, 450° F. (230° C.) turning occasionally. They will take 40 minutes to 1 hour, depending on size. Drain the fat.
  806. Vegetable ragoût or stew

  807. Cooking time ¾-1 hour.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:

    1 0z. fat (25 g.)2 lb. mixed vegetables, sliced or diced (1 kg.)
    2-4 oz. bacon, chopped (50-125 g.)Bouquet garni
    1 onion, diced2 Tbs. wine vinegar
    1 Tbs. flourSalt and pepper
    ½-¾ pt. stock (1-1½ c.)Chopped parsley

    Measures level. The vegetables may be any in season. If mostly root vegetables are used, the larger amount of stock will be needed, otherwise use ½ pt. (1 c.) only. Melt the fat in a soaucepan and fry the onion and bacon until they are just beginning to brown. Add the flour and cook until it turns yellow. Then add the stock, stir until it boils and add the vegetables and flavourings. Boil gently, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are tender. Add the vinegar and taste for seasoning. Serve with chopped parsley sprinkled over.

  808. Macedoine of vegetables

  809. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ pt. diced carrots (1 c.)1 egg yolk
    ¼ pt. diced turnips (½ c.)Chopped parsley
    ½ pt. peas (1 c.)
    ½ pt. vegetable sauce, No. 71 (1 c.)Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Boil the vegetables and make the sauce. Add the egg to the sauce and cook for a minute or two. Combine the sauce and vegetables and serve with chopped parsley sprinkled over.

  810. Vegetables jardinière

  811. Cooking time 1½ hours.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:

    ½ lb. lean salt pork or bacon, diced (250 g.)2 lb. green peas, shelled (1 kg.)
    ½ oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)1 lb. new potatoes (500 g.)
    1 lb. young carrots, sliced (500 g.)1 tsp salt
    5 small onions1 tsp. salt
    ½ Tbs. flourPinch of pepper
    Bouquet garni

    Measures level. Fry the bacon or pork. Add the carrots, onions and flour and fry for 5 minutes. Add water to cover and slowly cook for ½ hour. Add peas, potatoes and seasonings and cook slowly for 1 hour or until all the vegetables are tender. The cooking may be done in a casserole in a moderate oven and the vegetables served in the casserole.

    Suggestions for cooking and using different kinds of vegetables and herbs

  812. Artichokes, globe

  813. Allow 1 small, or half a large one, for each person.

    Artichokes must be very fresh. They are no good if they have hard, sharp, brown tips.

    Prepare by cutting off the stalk and removing the outer row of tough leaves. Trim the tops pf the leaves with scissors to make a neat shape. Wash in several changes of water or soak in salt water for an hour, removing any insects. Drain well, upside down.

    Cook in boiling, salted water for ½-¾ hour for small ones and up to an hour for large ones. They are done when the leaves pull out easily. If over-cooked they become tasteless. Drain upside down.

    To serve, revove the 'choke' - that is, the bunch of small fluffy leaves in the centre. The centre may then be filled with hollandaise sauce, No. 94, or serve the sauce separately. Cold artichokes are generally served with vinaigrette sauce, No. 119.

    Artichoke bottome are obtained by pulling off all the leaves. When the whole artichoke is served, the juice bits at the end of each leaf are dipped in the sauce and eaten.

  814. Artichokes, Jerusalem

  815. Allow ½ lb. per person.

    Prepare by scrubbing and then scraping or peeling thinly. Put at once in cold water to cover, with 1 Tbs. vinegar to every quart (4 c.). This helps them keep a good colour. Leave in the water for &drac12; hour. They may also be boiled in their jackets and peeled afterwards.

    Cook by putting in boiling salted water to cover and boil until tender when pierced. Over-cooking makes them soggy. Time 20-30 minutes. They may also be roasted as in No. 435 or fried like potato chips, No. 516.

    to serve make sauce, No. 71, with some of the vegetable water, or serve au gratin, No. 432, or use for soup, No. 38 and No. 52.

  816. Asparagus

  817. Allow 6 or 8 medium-sized pieces per person.

    Prepare and use as soon as possible after cutting. Stale asparagus has very little flavour and is inclined to be bitter. Never buy it with drooping or dry heads. Wash well, scrubbing the white ends and scraping them downwards with a sharp knife. Place in bundles of twelve large or twenty-four small heads with the tops level and trim the ends. Use the ends for vegetable stock.

    Cook in boiling salted water to cover the thick ends but leave the heads in steam. If possible use a tall, deep pan so that they can stand upright. If you cook asparagus often it is worth while buying a special asparagus boiler. The asparagus takes anything from 15 to 30 minutes to cook, depending on its condition. It should be crisp at the thick ends. If over-cooked the tips will fall off. Drain carefully.

    To serve, place on a hot dish and serve either with Hollandaise sauce, No. 94 or brown butter sauce, No. 111, separately. It may be served cold with vinaigreete sauce, No. 119 or rolled in sandwiches, No. 886, with grated cheese or cheese sauce, No. 75, or the tips mixed with sauce may be used to fill patties, No. 810.

  818. Balm

  819. The finely chopped raw leaves are used for flavouring salads, soups and stews. Allow 2 Tbs. chopped balm to 1 pt. liquid ( 2 c.).
  820. Basil

  821. Small amounts of the fresh leaves are used for flavouring soups, salads, stews and savoury meat dishes. It can be bought and used dried. A little is very good in minced-meat patties or loaves.
  822. Bay leaves

  823. A bay leaf forms part of the bouquet garni used for flavouring savoury dishes, see No. 12. Bay leaves are fairly strong in flavour and a piece of a leaf is generally sufficient for flavouring a dish for 4 people. Alternatively a whole leaf may be used and removed when the desired flavour is obtained.
  824. Beans, broad

  825. Allow ½-1 lb. per person (250-500 g.), depending on the fullness of the pods.

    Prepare by shelling. If the pods are young and tender, they can be sliced and cooked with the beans; if old, use them for vegetable stock, No. 33.

    Cook in a little boiling salted water as in No. 427.

    To serve, toss in alittle melted butter or margarine and sprinkle with chopped parsely or savory; or serve with sauce No. 71, made with some of the cooking liquid and some chopped parsley or savory. For a supper dish garnish with rolls of fried or grilled bacon.

    Serve cold for salads or hors-d'œuvres.

  826. Broad beans and bacon

  827. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    3-4 lb. beans (1½-2 kg.))2-4 oz. chopped bacon (50-100 g.)
    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)Salt and pepper to taste
    3 Tbs. flour1 tsp. sugar
    ¾ pt. vegetable water (1½ c.)2 Tbs. chopped parsley
    2 Tbs. vinegar

    Measures level. Shell the beans. Melt the fat in a saucepan and mix in the flour. Add the water and stir until it boils. Add the chopped bacon and the beans, and cook gently until the beans are tender. Season to taste. The amount of salt required will dpend on the saltiness of the bacon. Add the sugar, parsley and vinegar and serve hot.

  828. Beans, french or runner

  829. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare by removing tops and tails. If they are old, remove the stringy vein that develops along the rib. Small, young beans should be cooked whole, otherwise break them into 2-inch (5 cm.) lengths or slice them.

    Cook by boiling in a little salted water, as in No. 427.

    To serve, drain well and toss in a little melted fat. Use cold boiled beans for salads or hors-d'œuvres.

  830. Beans Béarnaise

  831. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. runner beans (500 g.)2 tomatoes, chopped
    ½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.)Salt and pepper to taste
    1-2 oz. chopped bacon (25-50 g.)

    Measures level. Prepare and cook the beans as in No 447. Drain and keep hot. Fry the bacon and tomatoes in the fat for a few minutes. Add the beans and mix well. Season to taste and serve hot.

  832. Beetroot

  833. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare by scrubbing well to remove all the soil, but taking care not to break the skin or they will lose their colour during cooking. Leave the root on but cut the stalks to about 2 inches.

    Cook by putting in boiling water to cover with 1 Tbs. salt to 2 lb. (1 kg.) vegetables. Boil until tender. Test by pinching the skin and if it comes off easily the beetroot is done. They are excellent cooked in a pressure cooker for 10-40 minutes, depending on size.

    To serve, removed the skins and slice or dice. They may be served cold for salad or hot with a sauce.

  834. Harvard beets

  835. Cooking time 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. cooked beetroot (500 g.)1 Tbs sugar
    1 oz. margarine (2 Tbs.)½ tsp. salt
    2 Tbs. flourPinch of pepper
    3 Tbs. vinegar made up to ½ pt. with water

    Measures level. Skin the beetroot and cut in cubes. Use the other ingredients to make a sauce by the Roux method, No. 69, adding the sugar and the seasoning at the end. Add the beetroor and cook gently for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

  836. Broccoli

  837. Prepare and cook in the same way as cauliflower, see No. 464-7.
  838. Brussels sprouts

  839. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare by trimming off any damaged outer leaves and washing well in salted water. Do not buy badly blighted sprouts, as it is very difficult to get them clean. Cut large sprouts in half before cooking.

    Cook by boiling in a little salted water, as in No. 427.

    To serve, toss in a little melted margarine or butter or serve with sauce, No. 71, made with the cooking liquid, or au gratin, No. 432.

    Raw, finely shredded sprouts are very tender and sweet in salads.

  840. Sprouts Lyonnaise

  841. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ lb. sprouts (750 g.)1 oz. butter or dripping (25 g.)
    2 Tbs. chopped onion

    Measures level. Boil the sprouts in a little salted water, as in No. 427. Drain well. Fry the onion in the fat and then add the sprouts and fry for a minute or two longer.

  842. Cabbage and savoys

  843. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare and boil in a little salted water, as in No. 427, or cook in fat as in No. 433.

    To serve boild cabbage or savoy, add a little melted margarine or butter and toss well. The addition of a little vinegar is an improvement. Cabbage may also be served au gratin, or shredded raw in salads.

  844. Fried cabbage

  845. Cook in a little fat as in No. 433, adding one medium-sized chopped onion for each pound (500 g.) of cabbage and a pinch of mace or nutmeg. A little chopped bacon may also be added with the onion.

  846. Sweet-sour cabbage

  847. Cooking time ½ hour..

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ lb. cabbage, shredded (750 g.)6 Tbs. vinegar
    1 oz. bacon fat or dripping1 Tbs. sugar
    Pinch of ground cloves

    Measures level. Boil the cabbage in a little salted water, as in No. 427. Drain well.

    Boil the other ingredients in a small pan for a few minutes. Pour over the cabbage and serve at once. This is very good with pork sausages.

  848. Cabbage and bacon

  849. Cooking time ½ hour..

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ lb. cabbage, shredded (750 g.)1 tsp meat extract
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)1 leeks chopped, or small onions
    3 Tbs. flour4 rashers bacon.chopped
    ½ pt. stock (1 c.)Salt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. Boil the cabbage, leeks and bacon in about ½ pt. water (1 c.) for 15-20 minutes or until tender. Drain and keep hot. Use ½ pt. (1 c.) of the liquid, fat and flour to make a saouce by the Roux method, No. 69. Season and add the extract. Pour over the cabbage.

  850. Stuffed cabbage leaves

  851. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 large cabbage leaves

    For the stuffing use half the risotto recipe, No. 615, or half the minced meat recipe, No. 408.

    Serve with ½ pt. (1 c.) cheese sauce, No. 75 or tomato sauce, No. 89.

    Pour boiling water on the cabbage leaves to soften them. Place some stuffing on each and roll up tightly. Pack closely in a pan and add a very little stock or water. Cook gently for 20 minutes to ½ hour. Add any liquid to the sauce and serve with the sauce poured over.

  852. Red cabbage

  853. Cooking time ½-¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 oz. fat (25 g.)2 Tbs stock or water
    1 lb. red cabbage, shredded (500 g.)2 Tbs. vinegar
    1 large onion, sliced1 tsp. salt
    1 large apple, sliced1 Tbs. brown sugar

    Measures level. Melt the fat in a saucepan and add all the other ingredients. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and boil gently for ½-¾ hour or until the cabbage is tender. Stir occasionally and do not cook too quickly or the pan will boil dry. There should be hardly any liquid left at the end of the cooking. This is very good served with pork or sausages.

  854. Carrots

  855. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare by scrubbing well and then scraping. If the carrots are freshly dug and young, they will only need washing. Young ones may be cooked whole, otherwise slice or dice them.

    Cook by boiling in alittle water, as in No. 427, or stew in fat as in No. 433, or cook in a casserole as in No. 434 or use one of the recipes given below.

    Serve according to the method of cooking, sprinkling with chopped parsley. Cold, cooked, diced carrots may be used in salads, or use raw grated carrot. A favourite method of serving boild carrots is with parsley sauce, No. 87.

  856. Carrots Vichy

  857. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)½ tsp. salt
    1 lb. young carrots, sliced (500 g.)1 tsp sugar
    1 Tbs. chopped parsley

    Measures level. Melt the butter or margarine in a saucepan and add the other ingredients, except the parsley. Cover and cook gently until tender. Serve with chopped parsley sprinkled over.

  858. Carrot purée

  859. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ lb. carrots, sliced (750 g.)½ oz. dripping (1 Tbs.)
    1 small onion, chopped very finelySalt and pepper

    Measures level. Boil the carrots in a little water, as in No. 427. Fry the onion in the dripping until brown. Rub the carrots through a sieve or put in the blender. Add to the onions and heat well, stirring all the time. Season to taste.

  860. Carrots and sprouts

  861. Boil equal quantities of sliced carrots and whole sprouts together in a little water, as in No. 427.
  862. Cauliflower

  863. Allow one large head for 4 portions.

    Prepare by removing the outer leaves and stalk, which should be used for vegetable stock, No. 33. Divide the cauliflower into sprigs or leave whole and wash well. When left whole a cauliflower takes longer to cook and has a stronger flavour.

    to cook, boil in a little water as in No. 427.

    To serve, make a sauce with the vegetable water, as in No. 71. Cauliflower may also be served au gratin, No. 432, cooked or raw in salads or with Hollandaise sauce, No. 94.

  864. Cauliflower with bacon sauce

  865. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 large cauliflower2 oz. flour (6 Tbs.)
    2 oz. fat (50 g.)1 pt. stock (2 c.)
    2 oz. chopped bacon (50 g.)Salt and pepper
    1 Tbs. chopped onion4 Tbs chopped parsley

    Measures level. Boil the cauliflower in a little salted water as in No. 427. Fry the bacon and onion in the fat in a small saucepan. Add the flour and finish the sauce according to the Roux method, No. 69. The outside leaves and the stalks of the cauliflower should be used to make the stock and add milk to make up to a pint. Season to taste, add parsley and pour over the cauliflower.

  866. Cauliflower Lyonnaise

  867. Boil the cauliflower in a little water, as in No. 427. Drain well. For 1 large cauliflower melt 1 oz. dripping (2 Tbs.) in a pan and fry in it 1 large chopped onion, together with the drained cauliflower. Serve when brown.
  868. Cauliflower Milannaise

  869. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 large cauliflower2 oz. grated cheese (50 g.)
    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)

    Measures level. Boil the cauliflower in small pieces as in No. 427. Drain well and place in a shallow, greased, fireproof dish, which has been sprinkled with a little of the cheese. Sprinkle the cauliflower with the rest of the cheese and halfthe butter cut in small pieces. Place in a hot oven or under the grill to melt and brown the cheese. Heat the rest of the butter in a small pan until light brown and pour over the cauliflower. Serve at once.

  870. Celery

  871. Allow 1 large head for 2-3 people.

    Prepare by removing any damaged outside stalks and the green leaves. Use these in a vegetable stock, No. 33. Pull off the stalks and trim the root. Wash very throroughly in cold water, using a small brush if necessary.

    To cook, cut in pieces and boil in a little water, as in No. 427, or stew in a little fat, as in No. 433, or cook in a casserole, as in No. 434.

    To serve, make a sauce, No. 71, from the cooking liquid or serve au gratin, No. 432. The tender centre stalks are used raw in salads or eaten with cheese.

  872. Celeriac

  873. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare be scrubbing and peeling. Cut in slices or dice.

    To cook, boil in alittle water, as in No. 427, or cook in fat, No. 433, or casserole, No. 434.

    To serve, make a sauce from the cooking liquid, as in No. 71. They may also be used raw, grated in salads.

  874. Chicory

  875. Allow 4 oz. per person (125 g.).

    Prepare by cutting off any damaged leaves and washing well.

    To cook, put in hot water to cover, bring to boil and boil for 5 minutes. Drain well. Then boil in a little water as in No. 427, or cook in fat, No. 433, squeezing alittle lemon juice over to help keep a good colour. Cooking takes about 30-35 minutes. To serve, drain well.

    Chicory is also used sliced in salads, but may sometimes be found too bitter to eat raw. It is advisable to try a little first.

  876. Chicory with cheese and ham

  877. Cooking time 1 hour.

    Temperatue 400°F (200°C) Mark 6

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. chicory (500 g.)4 oz. cooked ham (125 g.)
    1 Tbs lemon juice4 Tbs. buttered crumbs
    ½ pt. cheese sauce, No. 75 (1 c.)

    Measures level. Boil the chicory until tender in a little salted water with the lemon juice. Drain and put in a baking-dish in layers with the sauce and ham, finishing with a layer of sauce. Cover the top with crumbs and bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes.

  878. Chives

  879. Chives are used to replace onion where a milder flavour is desired. They are chopped finely and used in salads, omelets, scrambled eggs, mashed potatoes, cottage cheese and sandwich fillings.
  880. Chervil

  881. Chervil is a very delicate herb, which wilts quickly and is seldom on sale in a greengrocer's. It is used chopped with cucumber salad and in soups and sauces.
  882. Corn salad

  883. Use in green salads in the same way as lettuce.
  884. Cucumbers

  885. These are usually served raw in salads, see No. 561, but when cheap and plentiful may be cooked and served in the same way as vegetable marrow, Nos. 544-7.
  886. Eggplant or aubergine

  887. FRIED. Peel and cut in ¼-inch (6 mm) slices. Coat the slices in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce, No. 89.

    BAKED STUFFED. Boil 5 minutes in salted water. Cut in half and scoop out the centre. Discard the seeds if they are big. Mix the pulp with an equal amount of chopped tomato cooked in fat with a little onion. Season well and put back in the shells. Cover the tops with browned breadcrumbs and bake in a hot oven until brown on top.

    GRILLED. Peel and cut in slices. Mix 1 Tbs. oil with ¼ level tsp. salt and pinch pepper. Dip the slices in this and grill 3 minutes each side. Serve with fried eggs, or tomato sauce, No. 89.

    STEWED. peel, slice and stew in tomato sauce, No. 89.

  888. Endive

  889. This is generally used raw in salads in the same way as lettuce. Wash thoroughly, removing any damaged leaves and then drain well.
  890. Fennel

  891. Use the chopped leaves in sauce with fish or boiled mutton. It may also be used to flavour stews and soups.

    Floremce fennel has a swollen leaf-base which is used raw, or cooked in salad, sliced finely. It is also used as a vegetable boiled in water, or stock and served with a white sauce (No. 69, No. 90) or tomato sauce (No. 89).

  892. Garlic

  893. As it is very strong, only minute amounts should be used. Each bulb of garlic consists of a number of cloves, as half a small one of these is plenty to flavour a soup or stew for 4 people. It is specially good in dishes made with lamb or mutton and a cut clove of garlic rubbed round the salad bowl gives a slight flavour which is very pleasant. Also available dried or as garlic salt.
  894. Gherkins

  895. Immature cucumbers of a special variety used for pickling. Small ridge cucumbers are also pickled. Gherkins are used for garnishing purposes and in sauces such as tartare, No. 117 and vinaigratte, No. 119.
  896. Horse-radish

  897. Grated horse-radish is used to make sauce, No. 80, to serve with roast beef or with fatty fish such as herrings. A little is nice on grilled steak and in sandwich fillings. For the best flavour it should be grated just before use and grate the sides, not across the cut end, which is very difficult.
  898. Kale

  899. Allow ½ lb. per person (250 g.).

    Prepare by washing well and stripping the green from the coard stalks, unless the kale is very young, when the stalks will be tender enough to eat.

    To cook, shred the leaves and cook in the same way as cabbage, see No. 454.

  900. Kohl rabi

  901. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare by removing the green leaves and stalks and peeling fairly thickly, to remove the outer skin.

    Cook and serve in the same way as turnips, see No.542.

  902. Leeks

  903. Allow ½-¾ lb. per person (250-375 g.).

    Prepare by removing the roots and coarse outer leaves. Cut the tops off about 2 inches above the white part and use them for vegetable stock, No. 33. Cut the leeks in half lengthways and wash thoroughly, opening up the outer leaves to remove all the dirt. Drain well.

    To cook, boil in a little salted water, as in No. 427.

    to serve, drain well and serve with sauce, No. 71, made with some of the cooking liquid, or with cheese sauce, No. 75, or with tomato sauce, No. 89, or with caper sauce, No. 74. Cold, boiled leeks with French dressing, No. 118, or vinaigrette sauce, No. 119, make an excellent salad or hors-d'œuvre.

  904. Lettuce

  905. Allow 1 medium-sized lettuce for 3 people.

    Prepare by removing any damaged leaves and then washing the rest in cold water. Drain well and hang up in a towel in a cold place to get crisp, or put in a covered dish in the refrigerator.

    To serve, see salad recipes, Nos. 554-579.

  906. Maize or sweetcorn

  907. Allow 1 ear per person.

    Prepare by boiling in a little salted water until tender. This will take anything from 10 to 20 minutes depending on the age of the corn. It may also be stripped from the cob before cooking, but only if the corn is fairly well developed. It is nicest when fairly young and freshly picked. If it takes more than 20 minutes to cook it is too old to be nice. It my also be baked in the oven with a little fat.

    To serve add a little butter or margarine, toss well and season with salt and pepper. Or it may be served with a well-seasoned sauce, No. 69, made with milk or used to make fritters, see No. 865, using 6-8 oz. corn (250 g.).

  908. Corn and tomatoes

  909. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 oz. butter or maragine (25 g.)1 small sprig thyme
    2 c. cooked or canned corn¼ bay leaf
    2 c. chopped tomatoes1 tsp. sugar
    1 sprig parsleySalt and pepper to taste.

    Measures level. Melt the butter or margarine in a saucepan and add the tomatoes and chopped herbs. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the corn and cook for 20 minutes. Season well and serve hot.

  910. Marjoram

  911. The fresh or dried heb is used for flavouring sauces, stews, soups, meat rissoles and other savoury dishes.
  912. Mint

  913. Use to make mint sauce, No. 120, and to cook with new potatoes and green peas. It should be used with discretion or the flavour will drown the natural flavour of the vegetables. It is excellent for salads and for stuffing lamb or mutton, see No. 131, and to serve sprinkled over cooked carrots or peas. Mixed with jam or dried fruit it makes an unusual filling for sweet patties.
  914. Mushrooms

  915. Allow 2-4 oz. per person (50-125 g.).

    Prepare by removing the stalks and peeling off the outer skin, using a small sharp knife. Discard any which have worm holes or are old and blackened. The stalks and peelings should be used to make mushroom stock, No. 35.

    Cook by grilling with a small knob of fat in the centre or frying; or use to make mushroom sauce, No. 82, or for flavouring soups and stews.

  916. Mousseline of mushrooms

  917. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ medium sized onion, chopped&frac; pt. thick cream (1 c.)
    2 oz. butter (50 g.)½ tsp. salt
    1 lb. mushrooms (500 g.)Pinch of cayenne

    Measures level. Heat the butter and cook the onions in it without browning. Peel the mushrooms and chop them coarsely. Add to the onions and cook until tender. Add the cream and cook very gently until thickened. Add the seasoning and serve.

  918. Mustard and cress

  919. This is generally used in salads, or served plain with brad-and-butter. It should be thoroughly washed and any split seeds removed. Drain well.
  920. Nasturtiums

  921. Young nasturtium leaves are very good in salads or for a sandwich filling. Wash the leaves well before using. The seeds may be pickled and used in place of capers.
  922. Okra or gumbo or ladies' fingers

  923. The immature green pods of the plant are the parts eaten, available fresh or canned. Fresh okra are boiled whole in a little salted water, drained and dressed with melted butter or cream. They can also be stewed in a little butter with water to moisten. Mixed with jam or dried fruit it makes an unusual filling for sweet patties.
  924. Onions

  925. Allow 4-6 oz. per person (125-175 g.).

    Prepare by peeling off the brown skin. If this is done under water it helps to prevent the eyes from watering.

    Cook by boiling in salted water to cover, until tender. This will take anything from ¾ to 1½ hours, depending on the size. Drain well and use the water for stock. They may also be roasted in fat, see No. 435, or baked in their jackets by standing them on a baking-shelf in a moderate oven 100° F (200° C) Mark 6, and cooking them until they are soft when squeezed. This will take 40-60 minutes. They may also be cooked in a pressure cooker for 5-10 minutes, or longer if very big.

    To serve boiled onions make sauce, No. 71, using some of the cooking liquid, or serve au gratin, No. 432.

  926. Sugared onions

  927. (To serve with roast beef, lamb or pork)

    Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

    1 lb. small onions or shallots (500 g.)2 Tbs sugar
    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)

    Measures level. Peel the onions and boil until nearly done. Drain well. Melt the fat in a saucepan and cook the onions in it until they are brown. Then sprinkle on sugar and cover the pan. Cook gently for a few minutes longer until the onions are quite tender. Serve hot.

  928. Onion toast

  929. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 oz. fat (25 g.)Salt and pepper
    4 medium-sized onions, sliced4 slices cheese
    4 slices hot buttered toastFrench mustard

    Fry the onions in the hot fat until tender. Spread on the toast and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spread the slices of cheese with mustard and place on top of the onions. Grill, or bake in a hot oven until the cheese melts. Serve at once.

  930. Parsley

  931. Ordinary parsley may be used for decorating and flavouring all savoury dishes.

    Hamburg parsley leaves are used in the same way, but the roots are cooked like parsnips.

  932. Parsnips

  933. Allow 4-6 oz. per person (125-175 g.).

    Prepare by scrubbing and peeling.

    Cook by boiling in a little water, as in No. 427, or in a pressure cooker, stewing in fat as in No. 433, roasting in fat, No. 435 or cookining a casserole, No. 434.

    To serve boiled parsnips, mash well with a little butter or margarine and season with salt and pepper. Carrots and parsnips, cooked and mashed together are a very good mixture. Parsnips cooked by any method go well with fish.

  934. Parsnip balls

  935. (To serve with fish)

    Boil the parsnips in a little water, as in No. 427. Mash well and season with salt and pepper to taste. Dry over a gentle heat. Shap in balls and roll in breadcrumbs. Bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes, either with the fish or in a dish by themselves.

  936. Peas

  937. Allow ½ lb. per person (250 g.), but the amount varies according to the fullness of the pods.

    Prepare by shelling. If the pods are fresh and young, use them to make vegetable stock, No. 33.

    Cook in a little water, as in No. 427. It is traditional to cook a little mint with peas, but this is a pity when they are young, as the mint disguises the natural sweet flavour. In France they are cooked with lettuce leaves and a few small onions, which is an excellent method.

    To serve, add a little butter or maragine and toss well.

  938. French method of cooking peas

  939. Cooking time ½ hour. Suitable for fresh or frozen.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 lb. peas (1 kg. or 2½ c. shelled)4 or 5 small onions
    1 oz. butter or dripping½ tsp. salt
    4 or 5 outside leaves of lettucePinch of pepper
    2 rashers of bacon, chopped2 or 3 Tbs. water

    Put all the ingredients in a saucepan and cook gently until the oeas are tender. Add more water if necessary to prevent burning.

  940. Carrots and peas

  941. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ lb. young carrots, diced (250 g.)1 Tbs sugar
    ¼ pt. water (½ c.)1 oz. butter or magarine (25 g.)
    1 tsp salt1½ lb. peas (750 g.)

    Measures level Place the carrots in a saucepan with all the other ingredients except the peas. Cook gently for 5 minutes and then add th peas and continue cooking until the peas and carrot are tender. There should be hardly any water left in the pan.

  942. Spanish peas

  943. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 lb. peas (1 kg. ot 1 c. shelled)2 Tbs tomato purée
    1 oz. lard or dripping (25 g.)2 Tbs. water
    A speck of garlic1 tsp. salt
    Punch of pepper2 oz. bacon (25 g.)
    2 Tbs. chopped parsley8 oz. chipolata sausages (250 g.)
    1 Tbs flour

    Measures level Put all the ingredients, except the bacon and sausages, in a pan. Put on the lid and cook gently until the peas are tender. Ten minutes before serving add the bacon, which has been grilled or fried and cut in small pieces, and the sausages, which has been fried or grilled and cut in slices. Mix well and serve hot.

  944. Sugar peas or edible-podded peas or mangetout

  945. These are eaten whole while the pods are still very young and flat. Wash, cut off the stem end and cook and serve in the same way as french beans.
  946. Peppers or capiscums

  947. These may be the very small hot ones known as chillies, from which Cayenne pepper is made, and which are used dry in pickles; or the large sweet ones, which may be green or red in colour and are used as a vegetable.

    These are prepared by cutting in half and scraping out the seeds and membranes. They are generally served stuffed, or sliced and used in stews and vegetable soups, or raw in salads.

  948. Stuffed sweet peppers

  949. Cooking time ¾-1 hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 peppers1 egg
    1 small onion, choppedSalt and pepper
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    1½ oz. rice (1½ Tbs.), boiled or ½ c. breadcrumbs½ pt. tomato sauce, No. 89 (1 c.)
    4 oz. minced meat or ham (125 g.)

    Measures level Prepare the peppers as in No. 506. Fry the onion in the fat and add the meat, rice or breadcrumbs, egg and seasonings. Fill the peppers and place them in a baking dish or saucepan. Pour round the sauce and cook gently until they are tender, about ¾ hour. Serve hot with mashed potatoes and lettuce salad.

  950. Potatoes

  951. Allow ½ lb. per person (250 g.)

    Prepare by scrubbing well. New potatoes should be scraped, if the skins do not come off with scrubbing. Old potatoes are peeled thinly. Both new and old potatoes are very good cooked in their skins and have much more flavour than when peeled.

    Cook according to any of the methods given below.

  952. Boiled potatoes

  953. Peel, or leave the skins on and put in anough boiling, salted water to cover. Cook with the lid on and keep boiling gently, as rapid boiling makes the potatoes break and become mushy. When tender, drain carefully and shake over a low heat for a minute or two to make them floury and dry. New potatoes may be cooked with a sprig of mint for extra flavour.
  954. Browned potatoes

  955. Boil small or medium sized potatoes in their jackets, until almost cooked, as in No. 509. Peel while hot. Melt enough fat to cover the bottom of the pan and cook the potatoes in it until brown all over. Turn frequently.
  956. Mashed potatoes

  957. Boil according to No. 509. If unpeeled, remove the skin by holding the potaties on a fork and peeling with a sharp knife. Mash well or rub through a sieve. Return to the pan and beat with 1 Tbs. milk and 1 oz. (25 g.) margarine for each pound (½ kg.). Season with salt and pepper and add a little chopped parsley or chives for extra flavour. Beat well to make them white and smooth, keeping the pan over a gently heat to make sure the potatoes are still hot.
  958. Baked potatoes

  959. Choose medium or large potatoes without blemishes. Scrub them well, dry and rub the skins with greased paper. Place on a baking shelf in a moderate-hot oven 200-450 °F (200-230 °C) Mark 6-8, and cook for 45 minutes or until tender. They are done if they feel soft when squeezed in a cloth. Prick well to allow steam to escape and make them floury. The most attractive way of serving them is to prick the top in the shape of a cross. Then squeeze the sides of the potato gently and the cross will open into four points. Put in a knob of butter or margarine, a little salt and pepper or paprika pepper, and a sprig of parsley.
  960. Baked stuffed potatoes

  961. For each potato allow:

    1-2 Tbs. milk1 Tbs. chopped parsley or minced ham or corned beef or grated cheese or ½ Tbs chopped fried onion
    ½ tsp. butter or margarinePinch of pepper
    ½ tsp. salt

    Measures level Bake the potatoes as in No. 512. Cut in half lengthways and scoop out the inside carefully. Mash with the milk, fat and seasonings and chosen flavouring. Put back in the shells. Brown in a hot oven 450°F (230°C) mark 8 for a few minutes.

  962. Roast potatoes

  963. Cook in a little hot fat in the oven according to No. 435, rolling the potatoes in seasoned flour before putting them in the fat.
  964. Chip potatoes

    1. Choose large potatoes. Scrub and peel them and cut into ⅜-inch (1 cm.) slices lengthways and then again lengthways; or use a potato chipper.
    2. Put into cold water to cover until ready for frying.
    3. Drain well and dry thoroughly on a clean towel.
    4. Fry in hot, deep fat, see No. 149, or in shallow fat, No. 148. Drain well on absorbent paper and sprinkle with salt. Serve as soon as possible, as they become flabby with keeping.
  965. Potato crisps or game chips

  966. Cut the poatatoes in thin shavings on a vegetable slicer or with a sharp knife. Fry in deep fast, as in No. 149.
  967. Straw potatoes

  968. Cut the potatoes in very thin strips about ¼ inch ( 6 mm.) wide and about 3 inches (8 cm.) long. Fry in the same way as chip potatoes, No. 515.
  969. Duchesse potatoes

  970. Boil the potatoes, sieve while hot, return to the pan and dry over a gentle heat or in the oven. For each pound (500 g.) of potato add 1 oz. (25 g.) butter or margarine, 1 egg or 2 yolks, grated nutmeg, salt, pepper and hot cream or milk to make the mixture soft enough for piping. Beat thoroughly. Pipe in rosettes on a greased backing tray and bake in a hot oven until brown. The mixture may also be used for ornamenting savoury dishes.
  971. Parisian potatoes

  972. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

    Shape raw potatoes in balls with a vegetable scoop or cut in cubes and fry in shallow fat until well browned and cooked. Drain and sprinkle with chopped parsley, salt and pepper.

  973. New potatoes fried with mint

  974. Boil the potatoes according to No. 509, and let them cool a little. Then fry brown in shallow fat. Drain and sprinkle with chopped parsley and mint.
  975. Potatoes with cheese

  976. Slice cold boiled potatoes and fry them brown in shallow fat. Sprinkle liberally with grated cheese and allo the cheese to begin to melt before serving.
  977. Potato ragoût

  978. Cooking time ¾ hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 lb. small potatoes (1 kg.)Salt and pepper
    3 large onions1 sprig thyme
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)1 bay leaf
    2 Tbs. flour2 sprigs parsley
    1 pt. water or stock (2 c.)

    Measures level Peel the potatoes and onions and vut them into quarters. Heat the fat in a saucepan and stir in the flour. Stir and cook until it begins to turn yellow. Add the stock and stir until it boils. Add the rest of the ingredients, cover and boil gently for ¾ hour or until the potatoes are tender. Serve hot. This may be served as a separate dish for lunch or high tea.

  979. Paprika potatoes with smoked sausages

  980. Cooking time 40-50 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 oz. fat (25 g.)2 tsp. salt
    4 oz. chopped onion (1 medium)½ pt. stock or water (1 c.)
    2 Tbs. flour1½ lb. new potatoes (750 g.)
    1 tsp. paprika pepper1&farc12; lb. smoked sausages (750 g.)
    1 Tbs wine vinegar

    Measures level melt the flour and fry the onion in it. Add the flour and paprika and mix well. Add the vinegar, salt and stock and stir until it boils. Scrape the potatoes and cut in pieces, about half the size of an egg. Add to the sauce. Cover the pan and boil gently, stirring occasionally until tender. Cook the sausages separately or heat them with the potatoes during the last 10 minutes of cooking.

  981. Pumpkin or squash

  982. treat the same way as marrow, see No. 544, except that to have the best flavour, pumpkin should be really ripe.
  983. Radishes

  984. Wash well and serve very cold. They are generally eaten as hors-d'œuvre at the beginning of a meal or with cheeses at the end; but may be used in salads and for decorations. To cut radish roses, uses a sharp-pointed knife and cut slashes from the root end to within ¼ inch (6 mm.) of the stalk and ⅛ inch (3 mm.) deep, cutting to make petal shapes. Ease the red skin away from the rest and put in iced water until required.

    BLACK RADISH is grated or sliced very thinly and used in salads or eaten with cheese. Large ones may be cooked in the same way as turnips.

  985. Sage

  986. This is a stronly flavoured herb and should be used in small amounts. It is used for a stuffing for pork or duck, in lentil soup and with dried beans.
  987. Salsify

  988. Allow 1 lb. for 3 people (500 g.)

    Wash and scrape the roots and treat in the same way as Jerusalem artichokes, see No. 440.

  989. Savory

  990. This herb is used in stuffings for veal or poultry, in sausages and meat rissoles and with lentil soup or broad beans.
  991. Seakale

  992. Allow 1 lb. for 3 people (500 g.)

    Prepare by cutting off any discoloured leaves and peeling the stump.

    To cook, tie in bundles, put in boiling salted water and cook for 20-30 minutes.

    To serve, use the liquid to make sauce, No. 71, ot serve with Hollandaise sauce, No. 94.

  993. Seakale beet, silver beet or Swiss chard

  994. Cook and serve in the same way as cabbage, No. 454. The leaves and chopped stalks may be cooked together, or separately to make two different dishes but the former method gives the best flavour.
  995. Shallots

  996. Treat in the same way as onions, see No. 495.
  997. Spinach

  998. Allow ½ lb. per person (250 g.)

    Prepare by removing any decayed leaves and weeds and washing in several changes of water until the last water is clean. Lift the spinach out each time to allow the sand to collect in the water. Let the water away, run in fresh and add the spinach again.

    Cook without adding water, as there is sufficient left on the leaves after washing.

    When tender, drain well, pressing out all the moisture. Return to the pan and heat gently to dry it further. Add a little butter or margarine, pepper and a pinch of ground mace or nutmeg.

  999. Creamed spinach

  1000. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 lb. spinach (1 kg.)Pinch of ground nutemeg or mace
    2 oz. butter or magarineSqueeze of lemon juice
    2 Tbs. flour1½ lb. new potatoes (750 g.)
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Boil the spinach as directed for No. 532. Drain well. Rub through a sieve. Melt the fat and add the spinach and other ingredients. Heat gently until thick.

  1001. Spinach and poached eggs

  1002. Boil the spinach as in No. 532. Drain well. Make a bed of it and put a poached egg on top. If liked, pour over a little cheese sauce, No. 75, and brown under the grill.
  1003. Spinach au gratin

  1004. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    1 lb. spinach (500 g.)4 oz. grated cheese (125 g.)
    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)Pinch of pepper

    Measures level. Cook the spinach as described in No. 532. Drain and chop. Return to the pan with half the butter and cook quickly until well dried. Add three-quarters of the cheese and mix well. Place in a greased, fireproof dish and sprinkle with the rest of the cheese and butter, melted. Put in a hot oven or under the grill for the cheese to melt and brown.

  1005. Spring onions

  1006. Cut off the roots and trim off any damaged leaves. Wash well and use in salads, with cheese, to flavour mashed potatoes, or in place of onions in stews and savoury dishes. Welsh onions are used in the same way.
  1007. Swedes

  1008. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.)

    Prepare by scrubbing and peeling thickly to remove the outer skin. Cut in chunks, slices or dice.

    Cook by boiling in alittle water, as in No. 427, or in a casserole, No. 434, or stwe in fat, No. 436.

    To serve, mash well with a little pepper and butter or margarine.

  1009. Tarragon

  1010. Use the finely chopped leaves in salads (especially tomato), sauces, stews and pickles.
  1011. Thyme

  1012. Use in small amounts in stuffings and savoury dishes. It forms part of the traditional bouquet garni, used extensively in cooking, see No. 12.
  1013. Tomatoes

  1014. Allow 4-6 oz. per person (125-175 g.)

    Prepare by removing the green flowers and washing well. If they are to be skinned, plunge them in boiling water for a minute or two and then into cold water, then the skins should peel off quite easily.

    Cook by stewing without any liquid. Season with salt, pepper and sugar; or prick well to prevent bursting and bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes; or cut in half and grill for 15-20 minutes; or dip the cut sides in seasoned flour and fry in shallow fat until tender.

  1015. Stuffed tomatoes

  1016. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    temperature 400°F (200° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for 6 helpings:

    6 large tomatoes (about 1 lb. or 500 g.)1 tsp. chopped parsley
    ½ oz. fat (1 Tbs.)¼ tsp. salt
    ½ onion, choppedPinch of pepper
    1 oz. chopped bacon (25 g.)Pinch of sugar
    1 Tbs. grated cheesetd>½ c. fresh breadcrumbs

    Measures level. Cut a slice off the stem end of the tomatoes. Remove the pulp carefully using a small teaspoon and rub it through a sieve. Fry the bacon and onoin in the fat and mix with the pulp and other ingredients (except the breadcrumbs). Stuff the tomatoes with this and sprinkle the tops with crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Serve hot.

  1017. Turnips

  1018. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.)

    Prepare by scrubbing well and peeling thickly to remove the outer skin. Small turnips should be left whole, others cut in chunks, slices or diced.

    Cook according to Nos. 427-435.

    Serve as cooked, or mash with a little pepper and fat.

  1019. Ragoût of turnips

  1020. Cooking time 45 minutes.

    Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    10 small, turnips½ tsp. salt
    ½ oz. dripping (1 Tbs.)Pinch of pepper
    1 Tbs. flour2 tsp. sugar
    1 oz. chopped bacon (25 g.)Pinch of sugar
    ½ pt. stock (1 c.)

    Measures level. Peel the turnips. Melt the fat and add the flour, cooking until it turns yellow, stirring well all the time. Add the stock and stir until it boils. Add the turnips and seasonings and cook gently until tender, about 45 minutes.

  1021. Vegetable marrow

  1022. Allow 1 medium sized marrow 2-3 lb. (1-1½ kg.) for 4 people or use 1 lb. courgettes (½ kg.)

    Marrows about 9 inches (24 cm.) long are delicious cooked whole with the skin on and the whole marrow may be eaten. Smaller marrows, called courgettes, are grown in France specially for the purpose. The bigger a marrow is allowed to grow the less flavour it has.

    Prepare large or medium marrows by cuttin in pieces and removing the seeds. The skin may be left on.

    Cook by boiling in a little water, as in No. 427, cooking in a casserole, No. 434, roasting in fat, No. 435, stewing in fat, No. 436.

    To serve, season with pepper and put a small knob of fat on top, or mash well. They may be served with a vegetable sauce, No. 71, or au gratin, No. 432.

  1023. Stewed marrow and tomatoes

  1024. Cooking time 35 minutes.

    Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    2 lb marrow (1 kg.) or i lb, courgettes (½ kg.)Salt and pepper
    8 oz. tomatoes, sliced (250 g.)Pinch of mixed herbs
    1 medium onion, sliced½ tsp. sugar
    1 oz. fat (25 g.)¼ pt. stock (½ c.)
    2 Tbs. parsley

    Measures level. Prepare the marrow or courgettes and cut in small pieces. Fry the tomatoes and onions in the dripping for 5 minutes using a saucepan. Add the other ingredients, except the parsley. Cover and cook gently for 30 minutes or until the marrow is tender. Turn into a hot dish and sprinkle with parsley.

  1025. Stuffed marrow

  1026. For 1 medium marrow allow 1 lb. (500 g.) sausage meat or minced meat, No. 408. Peel the marrow and cut a slice off the top. Scoop out the seeds and fill with stuffing. Tie on the end again. Put in a baking-dish with a little fat and cook in amoderate oven 375° F (190° C.) Mark 5, until tender - about ¾ hour. baste often with the fat or cover the dish with a lid. Serve with brown sauce, No. 73 or tomato sauce, No. 89.
  1027. Marrow Lyonannaise

  1028. Mix cooked marrow or courgettes, but into small pieces, with half its bulk of onions, fried with a little fat.
  1029. Watercress

  1030. This is generally used for salads, either by iteself or mixed with other vegetables, or as a garnish for grilled or fried meats. It may also be chopped and mixed with with mashed potato, or used for soup, No. 44, stuffing, No. 131 or butter, No. 124.
  1031. Yams

  1032. Allow 6-8 oz. per person (175-250 g.).

    Prepare by washing and peeling. Cook by rolling in flour and baking in fat. Season well.

    Dried vegetables

  1033. Boiling dried vegetables

    (peas, beans, lentils and split peas)

    Allow 4 oz, (dry) (125 g.) per person. 1 lb. (500 g.) dried peas or beans gives 2 lb. cooked (1 kg.).

    1. The treatment to be given dried vegetables depends on their quality (age and condition before drying) and the hardness of the water to be used for cooking. Good-quality dried vegetables do not need soaking, nor do lentils and split peas, but poor quality peas and beans should be soaked in warm water for about 1½ hours before cooking. If the water is hard it pevents the vegetables from softening quickly and it is advisable to add a little bicarbonate of soda to soften it. 1 level tsp. of soda to each pound (500 g.) of dried vegetables is plenty. If too much is used, the flavour and colour are spoiled and the beans will fall to pieces on the outside before the inside is cooked. Dried vegetables need 2-4 times their bulk in water for cooking, depending on the length of time taken.
    2. Bring the vegetables and water to the boil and cover the pan. Cook very slowly until tender. Peas and beans take from 2 to 3 hours and lentils and split peas ½-¾ hour.
    3. For extra flavour cook a sprig of mint or a pinch of dried mint with peas. With beans, lentils or split peas cook an onion stuck with a few cloves, a carrot and some bacon rinds.
    4. Use the cooking liquid for soups, sauces and gravy.
      N.B. Much time is saved by cooking dried vegetables in a pressure cooker. Add four times their bulk of water and be careful not to fill the pan more than half full, to allow for swelling. Cook for 25-30 minutes.
  1034. Beans à la Bretonne

  1035. Cook the beans as directed in No. 550, or use canned beans. Drain well. For each pound of dried beans fry 2 medium sliced onions in dripping and when brown add the beans and mix well. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve hot.
  1036. Italian beans

  1037. Cooking time 2 hours or longer.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    8 oz. beans (250 g.)2 Tbs. tomato purée
    4 Tbs. oil or drippingSalt and pepper
    1 medium onion, sliced½ tsp. sugar
    2 fresh sage leaves

    Measures level. Boil the beans according to No. 550, or use canned beans. Drain well. Heat the oil or dripping and the chopped sage leaves. When hot add the beans and cook until the fat is absorbed. Add the tomato and season well.

  1038. Pease pudding

  1039. To each pound (500 g.) of dried peas or split peas allow 1 oz. (25 g.) margarine and 1 egg. Cook the vegetables as in No. 550 and rub through sieve. Beat with the margarine and egg and season well. Put in a greased basin and steam for 1 hour. Turn out and serve with meat or with tomato sauce, No. 89, or brown sauce, No. 73.

    Salads

  1040. General information

  1041. Salads can be used to give variety all the year round and not just in the summer months. They are excellent in hors-d'œuvre, or as a first course and as an accompaniment to hot meat or fish and other savoury dishes, as well as with cold dishes. A salad containing meat, fish, cheese or eggs can make a substantial main course for lunch or high tea and is acceptable even in winter, especially if it is preceded by a good bowl of hot soup.

    Winter vegetables such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery, leeks, beetroot and celeriac all make good salads. The ideal is to make salads of raw vegetables to give crispness, but if you do not like raw winter vegetables the next best is to use them cooked or canned. A raw salad is not necessarily of higher nutritive value than a portion of cooked vegetables and it should be regarded as something to eat for pleasure and variety,

  1042. Salad ingredients

  1043. COOKED VEGETABLES. Potatoes, cabbage, sprouts, beetroot, turnip, parsnip, kohl rabi, swede, onions, leeks, peas, beans, cauliflower, broccoli, artichokes.

    RAW VEGETABLES. Lettuce, watercress, cabbage heart, sprouts, spinach, endive, chicory, radishes, cucumber, onions, celery, cauliflower, sweet peppers.

    FRUIT. Any fruit, fresh or dried, is suitable.

    MEAT AND FISH. use any kind, cooked ot canned.

    EGGS. Hard-boiled or scrambled are suitable.

    CHEESE. Use any kind grated or cut in slices or cubes.

    FLAVOURINGS. Use green herbs, chives, parsley, mint, spring onions, nasturtium leaves, young celery leaves, mustard and cress, garlic, gherkins, pickles.

    DRESSINGS. See Nos. 113-119.

  1044. Making salads

    1. All raw and green salad vegetables should be as fresh and crisp as possible. Wash well under running water and hang them up in a clean, damp cloth in a draughtly place to drain. If you have a refrigerator put them in a covered dish in the least cold part. They should be dried first and the best way of doing this is to use a wire salad-basket and shake or twirl the greens in it gently until all the moisture is thrown off.
    2. Cooked vegetable should be quite cold and well drained from all moisture. Cut cooked vegetables in slices or dice.
    3. Raw vegetables, with the exception of lettuce and watercress, should be finely shredded with a sharp knife or grated.
    4. Fish and meat are improved in flavour if mixed with the salad dressing and allowed to stand some time before using. Potatoes are better if mixed with the dressing while they are still slightly warm. Lettuce or similar raw green salads are better not dressed until just before serving, or they will become limp and slimy.
    5. Serve salads in a large bowl, or arrange on a big flat dish, or serve individual portions in nests of curly lettuce leaves.
  1045. Bean and apple salad

  1046. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    3 c. cooked or canned French or runner beans½ tsp. salt
    ½ c. diced raw appleSalad dressing
    ½ c. sliced raw or cooked cabbage

    Measures level. Mix the vegetables with the salt and moisten with salad dressing.

  1047. Beetroot and mint salad

  1048. make individual nests of lettuce leaves or line a salad bowl with them. In the centre arrange thin slices of beetroot. Sprinkle with finely chopped mint and serve with French dressing, No. 118.
  1049. Brussels sprouts salad

  1050. Quantities for 4-5 helpings:

    1½ lb. cooked sprouts (750 g.)1 small cooked beetroot
    French dressing, No. 118

    Toss the cold sprouts in the dressing in a salad bowl. Decorate with beetroot, cut in thin slices or diced.

  1051. Cauliflower mayonnaise

  1052. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 medium sized cauliflower6-8 strips anchovy fillets
    Mayonnaise, No. 113

    Boil the cauliflower sprigs in a little water, as in No. 427, cooking some of the small green leaves with it. Arrange these round a bowl with the flowers in the centre. Dress with mayonnaise and decorate with strips of anchovy.

  1053. Cucumber salad

  1054. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    1½ lb. cucumbers (1 large or 2 medium size1 Tbs. water
    1 Tbs saltPinch of pepper
    4 Tbs vinegar2 Tbs. sugar
    2 Tbs. parsley

    Measures level. The fat field, or ridge, cucumbers make the best salads. Peel the cucumbers and slice them very thinly, the thinner the better. Arrange them in layers in a deep dish and sprinkle with salt. Leave for 2 hours for the moisture to come out. Pour away the liquid. Runse and drain the cucumber. Mix the vinegar, water, pepper and sugar together and pour over the cucumbers. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

  1055. Herring salad

  1056. Quantities for 2-4 helpings:

    1 salt or 1 fresh herring4 Tbs. vinegar
    1½ c. diced cooked potatoes2 Tbs. water
    ⅓ c. chopped gherkins1 Tbs. sugar
    ½ c. chopped applesPepper to taste
    1½ chopped cooked beetrootHard-boiled egg
    1 Tbs. chopped onionChopped parsley

    Measures level. If salt herring is used, clean, removed the head and soak in cold water overnight. Drain. skin, fillet and dice. Skin, filled and flake cooked herring. Mix all the ingredients together and pack into a basin or mould. Unmould on the serving dish and decorate with egg and parsley.

  1057. Lettuce salad

  1058. The lettuce should be very dry, fresh and crisp, see No. 554. For best flavour ir should not be cut or broken, but the leaces left whole. French dressing is the best to use but should not be added until hust before serving, and use just enough to moisten. Turn the leaves over and over in the dressing, using a spoon and fork, until the lettuce is well coated. For eaxtra flavour the salad bowl may be rubbed with a cut clove of garlic or chopped mint or other herbs may be sprinkled on the leaves.
  1059. Orange salad

  1060. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 or 4 oranges1 c. chopped celery
    1 lettuce1 Tbs. chopped nuts
    1 c. chopped appleSalad dressing

    Measures level. Peel the oranges and remove the pith. Slice them or divide them into sections. Arrange in individual portions on the lettuce leaves. Cover with the apples and celery and sprinkle with chopped nuts. Serve with mayonnaise, No. 113, or French dressing, No. 118.

  1061. Potato salad

  1062. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ lb. potatoes (750 g.)1 Tbs. chopped mint, parsley or other green herbs
    1 Tbs. finely chopped onion¼ pt. Mayonnaise, No. 113 or vinaigrette sauce, No. 119 (½ c.)

    Measures level. Boil the potatoes in their jackets, see No. 509. Peel and slice or dice while still warm. The waxy type of potato is best for salads, as the floury ones do not cut in clean slices. Canned new potatoes may be substituted. Warm the before adding dressing. Add the chopped onion and mix well with the salad dressing. Sprinkle with the chopped herbs. Leave until cold. Instead of using onions the bowl may be rubbed with a cut clove of garlic before putting in the potatoes.

    N.B If the potatoes are floury it is better to dress the salad when cold.

  1063. Russian salad

  1064. Quantities for 3 helpings:

    1 c. cooked or canned diced potatoes2-3 Tbs. French dressing, No. 118
    1 c. cooked diced beetrootChopped parsley
    1 c. cooked haricot beans or canned peas

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

  1065. Spring salad

  1066. Quantities for 2 helpings:

    4 oz. watercress (125 g.)2 Tbs. French dressing, No. 118
    ½ cucumber6 spring onions

    Wash and dry the watercress and cut the cucumber in thin slices. Chop the onions. Mix all with dressing just before serving.

  1067. Stuffed egg salad

  1068. Use recipe No. 188, allowing one egg per person. Place in a nest of lettuce leaves and decorate with slices of tomato and cucumber and some thick salad dressing.
  1069. Waldorf salad

  1070. Quantities for 1 helping:

    3-4 lettuce leaves1 Tbs chopped walnuts
    1 red apple, diced1-2 Tbs. salad dressing
    1 stick celery, chopped

    Arrange the lettuce in a nest. Mix the other ingredients together and pile in the leaves. Decorate with a little red apple.

  1071. Salmon mayonnaise

  1072. Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

    8 oz. fresh or canned salmon (250 g.)1 lettuce
    1 small beetroot or 3 or 4 tomatoesChopped parsley
    3-4 Tbs. mayonnaise1 hard-boiled egg

    Make a nest of the lettuce leaves. Place the salmon in the centre and mask with the mayonnaise. Decorate with the other vegetables.

  1073. Swiss salad

  1074. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 c. diced cooked chicken or rabbit1 c. chopped walnuts
    1 c. peeled and diced cucumber1 c. cooked green peas
    Salad dressing

    Arrange nests of lettuce leaves on 4 plates. Mix the other ingredients with enough salad dressing to moisten. Pile in the centre of the lettuce and serve at once.

  1075. Carrot and apple salad

  1076. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 c. raw grated carrot1 lettuce
    2 c. raw grated appleSalad dressing
    ½ c. raisins or other dried fruitSome cheese

    Arrange nests of lettuce leaves on 4 plates. Mix the carrot, cheese (?) and fruit together and pile in the centre of the lettuce. Mask with salad dressing and serve at once.

  1077. Celery and cheese salad

  1078. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lettuce4 small tomatoes
    3 c. sliced celerySalad dressing
    1½ c. diced cheese

    Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves. Mix the celery and cheese with enough dressing to moisten and put in the centre. Decorate with sliced tomatoes. Serve at once.

  1079. Asparagus salad

  1080. Serve cold boiled sparagus with mayonnaise, No. 113, or vinaigrette sauce, No. 119. If liked, arrange each portion in a nest of lettuce leaves.
  1081. Ham roll salad

  1082. Spread thin slices of cold, cooked ham with cottage cheese. Roll up loosely. Arrange in a nest of lettuce leaves and serve with salad dressing.
  1083. Creole potato salad

  1084. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. potatoes (500 g.)1 tsp. salt
    2 c. shelled prawnsPinch of pepper
    4 Tbs. oil2 hard-boiled eggs
    2 Tbs. vinegar

    Boil the potatoes in their jackets. Peel and slice. Mix with the prawns. Mix the salt, pepper, oil and vinegar together and combine with the potato and prawns while still warm. Leave to cool and decorate with sliced eggs.

  1085. Curried salad

  1086. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    8 oz. cooked chicken or other meat (250 g.)3 hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped
    8 oz. canned or cooked diced carrots (250 g.)Pinch of pepper
    ½ tsp. chopped or grated onion1 Tbs. curry powder
    2 apples, peeled and choppedSalt to taste
    Lettuce8 Tbs. mayonnaise

    Measures level. Combine the chicken or meat, carrots, onion, apples and eggs. Mix the curry into the mayonnaise and add salt to taste. Combine this with the other ingredients and serve in a bowl lined with lettuce leaves. Also suitable for hors-d'œuvre.

  1087. Shrimp and egg salad

  1088. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lettuce, largeChopped chives or parsley
    4 hard-boiled eggs1½ pt. cooked shrimps (1½ c. shelled)
    ½ pt mayonnaise, No. 113 (1 c.)

    Measures level. Make a nest of crisp lettuce leaves on each plate. Cut the eggs in half and place in the centre, cut side up. Cover the eggs with mayonnaise and sprinkle with chives or parsley. Surround the eggs with shrimps and serve at once.

  1089. Tongue salad

  1090. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 hard-boiled eggs½ tsp. salt
    6 oz. cooked or canned tongue, diced (175 g.)½ tsp. mustard
    1 medium beetroot, diced2 Tbs. vinegar
    1 apple, peeled and diced2 Tbs. cream or evaporated milk
    Pinch of pepperLettuce or chicory leaves

    Reserve two of the egg yolks for the dressing and chop the remainder. Mash the yolks with the seasoning and mix to a smooth cream first with the vinegar and then the cream or milk. Combine with the other ingredients and serve in a bowl lined with lettuce or chicory. Also suitable for hors-d'œuvre.

    Fruit and nuts

  1091. Food value

  1092. For many genartions it has been known that certain fruits are valuable foods. Sailors knew how important it was to have lemon juice or other citrus fruits for medicinal purposes. We know now that many fruits contain vitamin C, which the body needs for good health and vitality. Fruits which are a good source of this vitamin are - oranges, lemons, grapefruit, rosehips, strawberries, black and red currants, gooseberries, loganberries, raspberries and some apples (espcially the skins). In addition the red and yellow fruits contain carotene, from which the body makes vitamin A and all provide roughage and bulk.

    While fresh fruits have the highest vitamin C content, some preserved fruits are also a useful source, for example frozen black currants, blackcurrant syrup and frozen strawberries. Canned fruits lose some vitamin C, but canned citrus fruits are a good source and tomato juice is useful for carotene as well.

    Nuts provide protein, okl, B vitamins, minerals and cellulose. Chestnuts are an important exception and they contain a higher proportion of carbohydrate and less protein and oil than most other nuts. Peanuts have a very high nutritive value and peanut butter is also good value. Nuts are important in vegetarian diets as a substitute for animal protein.

  1093. Suggestions for preparing different kinds of fruit

  1094. For detailed recipes using each different kind of fruit see index.

    APPLES. If they are to be used for dessert or to be cooked with their skins on, wash and dry well just before using. To prevent discolouring when peeling, use a silver or stainless steel knife and, if the apples are not to be cooked at once put them into salty water to cover. Allow 1 level Tbs. salt to each quart (4 c.) water. Put a plate on top to keep the pieces under water. Drain well and rinse before using.

    For stewing, peel, core and leave whole or cut in quarters.

    For puddings and pies, peel, core and slice.

    For purée, wash and cut in sections. The cores and skins are removed when the pulp is sieved.

    Dried apples, see No. 592.

    APRICOTS. Wipe and dry carefully. they are generally stewed with the stones in, but may be cut in half and the stones removed. Crack some stones and cook the kernels with the fruit.

    Dried apricots, see Nos. 592-4.

    BANANAS. Do not peel until they are to be used, as they turn brown very quickly. This may be prevented to some extent by covering the sliced bananas with lemon-, orange-, or pineapple-juice. They are genarally served raw in salads or with custard but may be used to make a purée or fried and served with bacon.

    BILBERRIES and BLUEBERRIES. Wash and use to make pies and puddings, and the purée or juice for fruit fools and other cold puddings.

    BLACKBERRIES. Pick over carefully, removing stalks, hulls and any grubs and mouldy berries. Just before using wash by putting the berries in a colander and gently running cold water through. Drain well.

    If the berries are not to be used at once, spread them on a shallow dish, as they keep better if not left in a heap. They may be put in a refrigerator. To serve raw, sprinkle with sugar and stand in a cool place or in the refrigerator for ½ hour.

    BOYSENBERRIES. Prepare and use in the same way as blackberries.

    CHERRIES. Wash well and leave the stalks on if the fruit is for dessert. For fruit salad remove stalks and stones. For stewing and pies remove the stalks.

    CHINESE GOOSEBERRIES (AKA KIWIFRUIT). Peel off the brown furry skin and use the soft inside as raw fruit, or in salads, or to make a flan.

    CRANBERRIES. Prepare in the same way as blackberries, removing the stalks and leaves.

    CURRANTS (black, white and red). Wash well while still on the stalks, using the same method as for blackberries, and store in the same way. Do not remove the fuit from the stalks until they are ready to use, as it keeps better this way. To stalk use a fork, holding the bunch in your left hand and using the fork in the right to pull off the berries.

    DAMSONS. Wash well and remove stalks, leaves and any damaged fruit.

    ELDERBERRIES. Prepare in the same way as currants.

    FIGS. fresh figs should be washed well and served whole or sliced.

    For stewing remove the stalks.

    Dried figs are treated in the same way as other dried fruit, see No. 592.

    GOOSEBERRIES. Wash well and remove the tops and tails, using a pair of kitchen scissors or a small knife.

    GRAPES. Wash carefully and drain well, removing the seeds if the fruit is to be used in a salad.

    GRAPEFRUIT. To prepare grapefuit sections peel the fruit, removing pith and skin at the same time. Hold the fruit over a dish to collect the juice. Remove the skin round the sections by cutting close to the membrane on each side. A very sharp knife is needed to do this. To prepare halves of grapefruit for serving, cut in half across. Remove the seeds. Using a sharp vegetable knife cut along each side of the membrane between the sections. Use the same knife or a special curved grapefruit knife and cut round and under the fruit, separating it from the skin. Then cut out the core with a pair of scissors or a knife and lift it out with the membrane. Rearrange the sections and sprinkle with sugar or a little honey.

    GREENGAGES. Wash well and remove the stalks. If they are to be used in fruit salad remove the stones.

    LEMONS. Wash the skin. Grate the rind before squeezing out the juice. Grate only the yellow part, as the white pith is bitter.

    Use a lemon squeezer or juice extractor to get all the juice out.

    LOGANBERRIES. Treat in the same way as blackberries.

    MELONS. Wash the outside. Cut in sections length-wise and remove all seeds. Serve very cold with a little caster sugar. Cantaloupe melons are sometimes served with a portion of vanilla ice-cream on top of each slice. To prepare melon for a fruit salad remove the skin and seeds and cut it in cubes.

    NECTARINES. Wash and dry carefully. For fruit salad or pies remove the stones and cut the fruit in slices.

    ORANGES. Use the rind and juice in the same way as for lemons. Serving in the skin prepare the same way as grapefruit.

    PASSIONFRUIT or PURPLE GRANADILLA. Cut in half and remove the seeds and pulp. Use together to flavour fruit salads or as a sauce for ice-cream. To remove seeds, boil and strain.

    PEACHES. Wash and dry carefully. To remove the skins plunge the fruit into boiling water for a minute and then into cold water, when the skins should peel off quite easily.

    PEARS. Prepare in the same way as apples.

    PINEAPPLES. Peel thickly to remove all the skin. Take out the hard core and cut the pineapple across in ½-inch (1 cm.) slices or in dice. Serve very cold with a little caster sugar sprinkled over or add to fruit salad.

    PLUMS. Prepare in the same way as greengages.

    POMEGRANATES. Cut in halves and serve with a spoon. The seeds and juice are eaten.

    QUINCES. Peel, core and slice thinly.

    RASPBERRIES. Prepare in the same way as blackberries.

    RHUBARD. Wash well and trim the ends. It keeps a better colour if the skin is left on.

    STRAWBERRIES. Prepare in the same way as blackberries. Serve very cold.

  1095. Suggestions for preparing different kinds of nuts

  1096. Uless you can purchase fresh, good-quality nuts at the beginning of the season it is usually better to buy shelled ones instead. About half the weight of most nuts is shell and the wastage can be much higher if there are many poor-quality nuts. Unfortunately the quality can rarely be judged by the shells and it is important to buy from a reliable source and to pay a fair price.

    To shell nuts, use a good strong pair of crackers or a small hammer.

    To chop nuts, use a sharp knife on a board, or one of the patent choppers or grinding machines. If finely chopped or ground nuts are required an electric blender is an ideal tool to use.

    For recipes using nuts see the index.

    ALMONDS are sold in the shells, shelled, blanched, salted, split, as nibs (small pieces), or ground to a powder. To skin or blanch almonds, put them in a basin and cover with boiling water, leave for a few minutes, strain and cover with cold water. The skins can then easily be removed. Dry the nuts before use.

    BRAZIL NUTS usually have the skin left on and may be chopped or ground and used in the same way as almonds or walnuts.

    CASHEW NUTS require no preparation. They may be used chopped or ground.

    CHESTNUTS (sweet) are sold fresh in the shell, dried, shelled or canned purée or glacé (marrons glacé). To shell chestnuts, cut off the pointed end and either bake them in a moderate oven for 20 minutes or grill gently until the shells split. Remove shells and skins. Do only a few at a time as they are easier to shell while hot. To cook dried chestnuts, cover them with water and simmer gently until they are tender.

    COCONUT or COCOANUT. Fully ripe coconuts are hollow inside but unripe ones contain 'milk' which can be drunk or added to curries or other cooked dishes. Fresh coconut is chopped in pieces and removed from the shell. It may be eaten in pieces or shredded or chopped. Dried coconut is sold coarsely shredded or as fine desiccated coconut, used for flavouring cakes, puddings and for making sweets.

    FILBERTS or KENTISH COBS are usually picked and sold green and served for dessert. The nuts are cracked, shelled and peeled which is quite easy to do when they are fresh. They can be prepared in the same way as salted almonds and, when ripe, used in the same way as hazel nuts.

    HAZEL NUTS or COB NUTS are sold ripe in the shell, or shelled and sometimes roasted as well. To skin the shelled nuts, spread them on a tray and bake in a moderate overn until the skins can easily be rubbed orr. This proces also toasts them and improves the flavour. They can be chopped or ground and used in the same way as almonds and walnuts, including for making marzipan.

    PEANUTS or GROUND NUTS are sold fresh or roasted, shelled or unshelled, salted, or as peanut butter. Roasted peanuts can be skinned by rubbing. They are excellent in cooking when used chopped or ground in the same way as almonds and walnuts.

    PECAN NUTS. Prepare and use as walnuts.

    PINE KERNELS are sold ready for use as dessert nuts or in cooking.

    PISTACHIO NUTS are usually reserved for garnishing because of their attractive green colour. Where they are cheap and plentiful they are often salted.

    WALNUTS are used green and whole to make pickled walnuts. With ripe nuts the flavour is better if the skins are left on but they may be removed by blanching in the same way as almonds. For cooking they are use sliced, chopped or ground.

  1097. Using frozen fruit

  1098. If the fuit is to be served raw, thaw it slowly in the refrigerator allowing 8 hours per pound (½ kg.). For quicket thawing, empty the fruit into a bowl and thaw at room temperature for 3-4 hours.

    Fruit for cooking can be used either frozen or partially thawed, the latter being preferable for pies and tarts.

    When a little frozen fruit is being added to a fruit salad, put it into the syrup with the other fruit amd leave it to thaw.

  1099. Fruit salad

    This may be with one kind of raw fruit or with a mixture of different kinds, either all raw, or with some frizen, bottles or canned fruit. Syrup from canned fruit will be used to moisten the salad.
    1. For a raw fruit salad make a syup by boiling together ½ pt. (1 c.) water or ½ cide and ½ water, and 2-4 oz. (4-8 Tbs.) sugar or honey. This is sufficient for a salad for 4 people. When the sugar is dissolved, allow to cool. In countries where brandy and other spirits are cheap, these are used instead of the syrup. The fruit is sprinkled with caster sugar and the spirit poured over.
    2. Fruit for a salad may be sliced or diced, but when mixed fruit is used it is better cut in small, even-sized pieces.
    3. Serve all salads very cold. They may be put in the refrigerator for half an hour or so beforehand. Serve with a sweet biscuit or custard.
  1100. Pear and ginger salad

  1101. Peel ripe pears and cover them with the syrup described in No. 584. Sprinkle with chopped, preserved ginger, or, if none is available cook some root ginger with the syrup until it is well flavoured.
  1102. Orange and apple salad

  1103. Use equal amounts of sliced, peeld oranges and sweet apples. Pour over syrup and if possible, add 1 Tbs brandy or rum to it.
  1104. Plum and melon salad

  1105. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. ripe plums (500 g.)1 oz. honey (1 Tbs.) or to taste
    ½ small ripe melon6 oz. orange juice (¾ c.)

    Wash and stone the plums and cut in small pieces. Remove seeds and pulp, peel and dice the melon. Mix the fuits and add the orange juice mixed with the honey to dissolve it. Chill before serving.

  1106. Frozen strawberries in orange juice

  1107. Quantities for 4-5 helpings:

    1 lb. frozen strawberries (500 g.)1 Tbs caster sugar
    ½ pt. canned orange juice (1 c.)

    Put the frozen berries in a bowl with the orange juice, sprinkling any exposed fruit with sugar. Cover the bowl and put in the refrigerator to allow the berries to thaw slowly. Serve when they are only just thawed. This will take about 4 hours.

  1108. Stewed fresh fruit or fruit compote

    1. For each pound of fruit heat together 4 oz. (½ c.) sugar and ½ pt. (1 c.) water. Stir until the sugar dissolves and bring to the boil. More or less sugar may be used according to personal taste.
    2. Prepare the fruit as described in No. 581 and add it to the boiling syrup. Reduce the heat to keep it just below boiling and cook until tender. If the syrup is allowed to boil hard the fruit will break and be unsightly. Cherries should be allowed to cook until the skin breaks, otherwise the sugar will not be absorbed.
    3. The time varies with the kind and ripeness of the fruit but the following table will be a guide:

      Berries and other soft fruit15-20 minutes
      Quartered apples, plums etc.20-30 minutes
      Cooking pears½-1 hour (2-3 hours for hard kinds)
      Quinces1½-2 hours

      When the fuit is just tender, drain from the syrup and place in the serving dish.

    4. Boil the syrup hard to make it thick. Then pour over the fruit and serve hot or cold.
    5. For variety, flavourings may be added to the syrup and the fruit. For example, lemon or orange peel, cloves, spices, ginger, or use some cider in place of the water.
    6. Serve stewed fruit with cream or custard, with milk puddings or with biscuit or a piece of cake.
  1109. Stuffed stewed apples

  1110. Peel and core small apples and cook them in syrup in a saucepan, as in No. 589, turning them occasionally and taking care not to over-cook or break them. Place in a serving dish and fill the centres with red jam mixed with chopped nuts or dried fruit. Boil the syrup to thicken it and pour round the apples. Serve cold with custard or cream.
  1111. Pears armandine

  1112. Cooking time 30 minutes or more.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ pt. water (1 c.)Toasted almonds
    4 oz. sugar (½ c,)8 oz. frozen or fresh strawberries
    Vanilla essenceWhipped cream
    4 pears, peeled, halved and cored

    Measures level. Boil the sugar and water for 3-4 minutes. Add the vanilla and poach the pears in this until they are just tender. Turn frequently. Put them in a serving dish, round sides up and stick with slivers of almonds. Boil the syrup to reduce by half. Add the strawberries and boil until tender and mashed. Sieve. Spoon over the pears and chill. Serve with cream.

  1113. Stewed dried fruit

    1. Wash the fruit well and soak for 24 hours in warm water. It will need 2-4 times its bulk in water.
    2. Cook very gently in the soaking water until tender, ½-1 hour. Lemon or orange peel or some cinnamon or cide may be used for extra flavour, and a little sugar added towards the end of cooking. If added too soon it prevents the fruit from softening properly.
    3. Serve in the same way as fresh fruit or use in recipes requiring cooked fruit.
  1114. Dried fruit salad

  1115. Quantities for 8 helpings:

    4 oz. dried apricots (125 g.)8 oz. prunes (250 g.)
    8 oz. dried figs (250 g.)Sugar to taste
    8 oz. dried peaches or pears (250 g.)

    Prepare and cook as in No. 592.

  1116. Mixed fruit compote

  1117. Quantities for 8 helpings:

    1 lb. dried apricots (500 g.)1-inch piece of lemon peel
    1 qt. water (4 c.)1 large or 2 small apples
    8 oz. seedless raisins (250 g.)

    Wash the apricots and put in a pan with the water, raisins and peel. Cook gently until tender. Core the apples and cut into eighths. Lay the sctions on top of the other fruit, cover the pan and cook until the appled are tender.

  1118. Stewing in a casserole

    1. Prepare the fruit as for ordinary stewing and put it in a casserole or any oven-dish with a lid.
    2. Add 2-4 oz. (4-8 Tbs.) sugar or honey to each pound (500 g.) of fruit and just enough water to moisten the bottom of the dish. With juicy fruits like berries, rhubard and ripe plums no water is needed; quinces and hard pears will need ½ pt. (1 c.) water per pound (500 g.) fruit.
    3. Cover the dish and cook in a moderate or slow oven 375-300 °F (190-150 °C) Mark 5-2 until the fruit is tender. The times are about the same as for stewing, see No. 589, but may take twice as long in a slow oven.
  1119. Rhubarb and orange compote

  1120. Cooking time 20-30 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. rhubarb (500 g.)2-3 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)
    2 oranges

    Cut the rhubard in 1-inch (2½ cm.) pieces and put in layers in a casserole with the sliced, peeled oranges and the sugar. Cover and cook in a moderate oven until the rhubarb is tender. Serve hot or cold with custard or cream.

  1121. Baked apples

    1. The apples may be peeled, or baked with their skins on. It is better to remove the core with an apple-corer. If the skins are left on, slit them in a ring about half-way down the apple, using the point of a sharp knife. This prevents the skin from bursting during cooking.
    2. The centres may be stuffed with any of the following: dates, honey and ground cloves, cinnamon, brown sugar, treacle or raisins. Place in a shallow baking-dish and add 1 level Tbs sugar dor each apple and about ¼ inch (6 mm.) water.
    3. Bake in a moderate oven 400° F. (300° C.) Mark 6 until the fruit is tender; basting occasionally with the liquid. They will take 40-50 minutes. Serve hot or cold.
  1122. Special baked apples with meringue

  1123. Cooking time about 1 hour.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 oz. syrup (2 Tbs.)1 egg white
    ¼ pt. water (½ c.)2 Tbs sugar
    ¼ tsp. cinnamon12 blanched and shredded almonds
    1 tsp. grated lemon rind4 glacé cherries, chopped
    ½ oz. margarine (1 Tbs.)4 cooking apples

    Measures level. Heat the first five ingredients together and bring to the boil. Core the apples and peel the upper half. Place in a baking dish with the syrup and cook as in No. 597. Beat the egg white until stiff and beat in the sugar. Put ¼ on top of each apple and decorate with almonds and cherries. Bake until lightly browned in a moderate ocen 350° F. (180° C.) Mark 4. Serve hot.

  1124. Baked bananas and prunes

  1125. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    2 bananas8 oz. cooked or canned prunes or red plums (250 g.)
    1 tsp. grated lemon rind2 Tbs. lemon juice

    Peel the bananas and cut in four lengthwise. Arrange in a shallow baking-dish. Sprinkle with the lemon rind and lemon juice. Drain and stone the prunes or plums and put on top of the bananas. Pour over enough juice barely to cover. bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Serve warm or chilled.

  1126. Baked pears

  1127. Cooking time 2-3 hours

    Temperature 300° F. (150° C.) Mark 3.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. stewing pears (500 g.)3 oz. syrup (3 Tbs.)
    1 c. buttered crumbs, No. 876¼ pt. water (½ c.)

    Peel and halve or quarter the pears. Remove the cores. Coat in the buttered crumbs and pack in a casserole. Add the syrup and water. Cover and cook slowly until the pears are tender. Serve with custard or cream.

  1128. Baked spiced rhubarb

  1129. Cooking time 25 minutes

    Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    2 lb. rhubarb (1 kg.)4 cloves
    6-8 oz. sugar (¾-1 c.)1 stick of cinnamon or a little ground cinnamon

    Measures level. Cut off the tops of the sticks and trim the root end. Wash rhubarb and cut in 1-inch pieces. Put in a casserole. Sprinkle on the sugar, add spice. Cover and bake until tender but not mushy. Leave it covered while cooling and serve cold.

  1130. Preparing fruit pulp or pureé

  1131. (1 lb. fruit gives about ½ pt. pureé or 1 c.)

    Fruit pulp may be made from fresh ripe fruit rubbed through a sieve. When cooked fruit is used, the oven method No. 595 is best for flavour. When the fruit is quite tender rub it through a fine sieve. If possible use a nylon sieve as metal sieves sometimes affect the flavour and colour of the fruit. Pulp may also be made from stewed dried fruit or canned fruit, straining off some of the juice before sieving. Raw or cooked frozen fruit is also suitable.

  1132. Fruit fool

  1133. Cooking time ½ hour

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ pt. raw or cooked fruit pureé, No. 602 (1 c.)Sugat to taste
    ½ pt. evaporated milk or cream, whipped (1 c.)Flavour with lemon or orange juice or with essence

    Sweeten the fruit pulp to taste and allow to become quite cold. If evaporated milk is used, scald the tin in a pan of boiling water for ½ hour, cool and then chill. Beat the milk and then fold in the fruit pulp. With whipped cream, fold the pulp into the cream. Flavour to taste and serve very cold in individual glasses. If necessary, a little colouring may be added.

  1134. Fruit soufflé

  1135. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ pt. fruit pureé, No. 602 (1 c.)Pinch of salt
    2 egg whites1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)
    ½ tsp. grated lemon rind

    Measures level. Beat the egg whites with the salt until they are stiff. Then beat in the sugar. Fold in the fruit pulp and the lemon rind. Pour into a baking dish and cook in a moderate oven until risen and lightly set. Serve at once with cream or custard made with the egg yolks. Serve a piece of cake or a biscuit separately.

  1136. Cinnamon apples

  1137. Make apple pulp according to No. 602. Sweeten to taste with sugar and add cinnamon (1 tsp. to 2 lb. (1 Kg.) apples) when cooking the apples. Serve cold in individual dishes with biscuit or cake and cream.
  1138. Apple crisp or crumble

  1139. Cooking time 1-1½ hours

    Temperature 350° F. (180° C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 lb. cooking apples (500 g.)3 oz. flour (⅔ c.)
    ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)
    ⅛ pt. water (¼ c.)1 oz. margarine or butter (25 g.)

    Measures level. Peel and slice the apples finely and put in a baking dish. Sprinkle with cinnamon and add the water. Mix the flour and sugar and rub in the fat until the mixture looks like fine crumbs.

    Sprinkle on top of the fruit and bake in a slow-moderate oven until golden brown. Do not have the oven too hot or the juice will bubble up and spoil the top.

    N.B. This recipe may be made with rhubarb and other fruits. If the fruit is very sour it should have extra sugar sprinkled on before the crumble.

  1140. Grilled grapefruit

  1141. Cooking time 5-6 minutes

    Allow half a grapefruit per person. Prepare the halves as described in No. 581. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Place about ¼ oz. (½ Tbs.) butter over the hole in the centre. Grill gently for 5-7 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve hot.

  1142. Banana and chocolate creams

  1143. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 bananasJuice of 1 lemon
    2 Tbs. caster sugar2 oz. grated chocolate (50 g.)
    ¼ pt. double cream (½ c.)Glacé cherries
    Vanilla essence

    Measures level. Mash the bananas with a fork and add the sugar, cream and vanilla essence to taste. Add the lemon juice and mix well. Put in individual dishes and cover the top with a layer of grated chocolate. Decorate with glacé cherries and serve cold but do not put in the refrigerator.

  1144. Caramel oranges

  1145. Cooking time about 5 minutes

    Quantities for 6 helpings:

    6 oranges¼ pt. water (½ c.)
    Caster sugar4 oz. gran. sugar (½ c.)
    Brandy or liquor (optional)Whipped cream
    Chopped nuts

    Measures level. Peel the oranges, taking car to remove all the pith. Cut in slices or divide into segments. Arrange in layes in a heat-resisting serving-dish, sprinkling each layer with a little caster sugar and liquor, if used. Heat the sugar and water, stirring until dissolved and then boil rapidly without stirring, until it turns a pale-brown caramel. Pour over the oranges and leave in a cold place for several hours. the caramel will gradually dissolve and form a syrup round the oranges. Decorate with whipped cream and chopped nuts.

  1146. Lemon delicious pudding

  1147. Cooking time about 45 minutes

    Temperature 350°F. (180°C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 eggs2 Tbs. flour
    1 tsp. grated lemon rind¼ pt. milk (&fra12; c.)
    2 Tbs. lemon juice2 tsp. melted butter
    5 oz. caster sugar (⅔ c.)

    Measures level. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs. Mix ingredients in this order: lemon rind, lemon juice, sugar, flour, beaten egg yolks, milk and butter. Mix thoroughly and fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into a greased baking dish and cook until set. The mixture separates into a frothy top and custardy base.

    Cereals and starch foods

  1148. Food value

  1149. Arrowroot, sago and tapioca consist almost entirely of starch. Cereals contain starch, protein, calcium, iron and B vitamins. Whole-greain cereals have the highest vitamin content but they contain phytic acid which hinders the absorption of calcium and iron. Refined cereals like white flour and white rice have a lower nutritive value than the whole grain. In the United Kingdom, white and brown flours are enriched with calcium, iron and B vitamins (thiamin and niacin). They contain more calcium than whole-grain flour but slightly less iron and B vitamins.
  1150. General information

  1151. CEREALS include:

    Wheat which is used for making flour, semolina, spaghetti, macaroni, vermicelli and for certain prepared breakfast foods.

    Oats which are used for making rolled oats and oatmeal.

    Rice which is used as the whole grain with outer husk removed, or as ground rice.

    Maize which is used to make maize flour (corn meal), hominy, polenta, and corenflour.

    Barley which is used as pearl barley to make barley flour and barley flakes.

    Rye is used to make flour for rye bread and for crisp breads.

    STARCH FOODS include:

    Arrowroot which is made from the root of a plant which grows in the West Indies and India.

    Potato starch, fecule or flour.

    Sago which is made from the pith of the sago plant.

    Tapioca which is made from the root of a tropical plant.

    As they readily absorb moisture and become mouldy, cereals must be kep in dry containers with airtight lids. Whole-grain cereals do not keep as long as the refined ones. Do not put fresh cereals on top of old ones in the container, as the old may spoil the new.

    When they are cooed, heat and moisture soften the starch grains in cereals and make them swell. As they well moisture is absorbed and we say they thicken the liquid. Cooking also makes the grains more digestible and improves the flavour. Many packet puddings made from cereals are very much improved by giving them longer to cook than the instructions generally advise.

  1152. Boiling rice

    Long grain rice is usually best for boiling but others are sometimes used. Some rice is specially treated for quick and easy cooking and sold in packets with cooking instructions. The method below is the best for cooking other types of rice.

    Quantities: allow 2 oz. (¼ c.) per person.

    1. Put the rice in a strainer and hold it under the cold tap allowing water to run through and wash away loose starch which tends to make the grains stick together during cooking.
    2. For each 2 oz. (¼ c.) rice allow ¼ pt. (½ c.) water and ¼ level tsp. salt.
    3. Put rice, water and salt in a pan, bring to the boil, stir, put on the lid and reduce the heat to simmering. Cook 15 mins, without stirring or lifting the lid. If more convenient, this part of the cooking can be done in a double-boiler or in a moderate oven.
    4. test a few grains by squeezing them between the thumb and fore-finger. If the rice is done there will be no hard code of starch. By this time all the water should have been absorbed.
    5. Remove the lid, fluff the rice up with a fork and keep it in a warm place for 5-10 minutes, to dry, but do not let it cook any more.
  1153. Re-heated and fried rice

  1154. Cold boiled rice keeps well in a tightly covered dish in the refrigerator for up to a week, or in the larder for 2-3 days.

    To re-heat it, put the rice in a covered saucepan with a few tablespoons of water and stand the pan over a low heat. Shake the pan occasionally until the rice is hot and fluffy.

    To fry the rice, first fry a little chopped onion in butter or oil until it begins to brown. Add the rice and heat until the fat is absorbed and the rixe is beginning to brown. Add chopped green herbs and season to taste. Option additions: chopped canned pineapple and chopped salted almonds; raisins and chopped almonds; chopped gren or red sweet peppers; chopped tomato; chopped celery and mushroom fried with the onion.

  1155. Risotto

  1156. Cooking time about 25-30 minutes

    Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    2 oz. fat (50 g.)2 oz. chopped cooked mushrooms, liver or tomatoes (50 g.)
    3 oz. chopped onions (½ c.)2 oz. grated cheese (50 g.)
    6 oz. rice (¾ c.)1 pt. stock (2 c.)

    Measures level. Use a thick frying pan and fry the onion in the fat until it begins to turn bown. Add the rice and cook for 3 minutes longer. Add a quarter of the stock and cook for 15-20 minutes or until the rice is tender, adding the rest of the stock gradually. All the stock should be absorbed by this time. Add the cooked mushrooms, liver or tomatoes a few minutes before serving. They should be fried in a little fat. Serve the grated cheese separately, to be sprinkled on at table.

  1157. Kedgeree

  1158. Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

    1-2 oz. butter or maragine (25-50 g.)1 hard-boiled egg
    2 c. cold boiled rice No. 613Salt and pepper to taste
    8 oz. cooked, flaked fish (fresh, smoked or canned) (1 c.)Pinch of nutmeg
    1 lemon

    Measures level. Melt the butter or margarine and stir in the fish and rice. Add the seasonings and chopped egg white. heat gently until thoroughly hot through. Pile on a dish. Rub the egg yolk through a sieve and sprinkle over the top. Serve with sliced lemon.

  1159. Raisin rice

  1160. (to serve with poultry or meat) Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    8 oz. long-grain rice (1 c.)2 oz. blanched almonds (¼ c.)
    1 oz. butter (25 g.)Salt
    1 small sliced onion2 oz. seedless raisins (¼ c.)

    Measures level. Boil the rice, see No. 613. Meanwhile heat the butter and fry the onion and almonds until brown. Add the raisins, rice and salt. Make sure it is hot before serving.

  1161. Liver pilaff

  1162. Cooking time 45 minutes.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    2 oz. butter (50 g.)8-12 oz. liver, diced (250-375 g.)
    1 pt. chicken stock (2 c.)1-2 oz. butter (25-50 g.)
    8 oz. long-grain rice (1 c.)Salt and pepper

    Measures level. Put 2 oz. (50 g.) butter and the stock in a large pan. Bring to the boil and add the rice. Stir, and then cook slowly until the rice is tender and all the stock absorbed, about 20-30 minutes. This can be done in a slow oven, 350°F (180°C) Mark 4. Season the rice to taste. Dish on a hot plate or pack into a ring mould. Keep hot. Heat 1-2 oz. butter (25-50 g.) in a frying pan and fry the liver very quickly, turning it frequently until it is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and either pile on the rice or put it in the centre of the un-moulded border. If preferred more moist, the liver may be mixed with a little hot brown or mushroom sauce.

  1163. Boiling macaroni, spaghetti, vermicelli and noodles

    1. Allow 4 oz. (125 g.) per person. Boil 1 qt. (4 c.) of water in a large saucepan with 1 level Tbs. salt.
    2. The macaroni or spaghetti may be cooked whole or broken in pieces. Other pasta are cooked as purchased. Add to the boiling water and cook rapidly without a lid on the pan, or it will boil over. With long pieces put one end in the pan and the rest will coil up as it softens.
    3. Boil until the pasta is tender. try to avoid overcooking as ths makes the piecese stick together in a mass, instead of being separate. The time varies from 5 to 15 minutes.
    4. Drain in a colander and pur boiling water through to separate the pieces.
    5. Reheat in a little melted butter or maragine or serve with tomato or cheese sauce.
  1164. Macaroni cheese

  1165. Cooking time 45 minutes.

    Temperature 375°F (190°C) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 oz, macaroni (125 g.)Buttered breadcrumbs, No. 876
    1 pt. cheese sauce, No. 75 (2 c.)

    Measures level. Boil the macaroni according to No. 619. Put in a pie dish in layers with the sauce, finishing with sauce. Sprinkle the top with breadcrumbs and bake in a moderate oven until brown on top or brown under the grill.

  1166. Macaroni cheese with ham

  1167. Make according to No. 620, adding 2 oz. (50 g.) cooked chopped bacon or ham to the sauce.
  1168. Noodles with cultured cream or yoghurt

  1169. Cooking time 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 oz. butter (50 g.)
    1 lb. egg noodles (500 g.)½ pt. cultured (soured) cream or yoghurt (1 c.)
    8 oz. cooked, sliced ham (250 g.)Salt and pepper
    Grated Parmesan cheese

    Measures level. Boil the noodles and drain. Put the slices of ham in a pile and cut in strips lengthways and then across to give small pieces. Melt the butter. Add the noodles and ham and mix. Add cream or yoghurt and seasoning. Make sure it is hot. Serve on a hot dish and hand the cheese separately.

  1170. Spaghetti and meat sauce

  1171. Cooking time 1 hour.

    Quantities for ½-1 lb. of spaghetti (250-500 g.):

    2 Tbs. olive oil14 oz. can of tomatoes (400 g.)
    8 oz. minced lean beef (250 g.)Garlic salt or fresh or dried garlic to taste
    1 chopped onionSalt and pepper to taste
    2 oz. chopped mushrooms (50 g.)Grated Parmesan cheese

    Heat the oil and fry the beef until it changes colour. Add the onion and mushroom and fry gently for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes and seasoning and simmer gently for 40 minutes or until the sauce is thick and the ingredients well blended. Either mix with the boiled spaghetti, see No. 619, or serve on top of it. Sprinkle with the cheese.

  1172. Boiling sago and tapioca

  1173. These are generally cooked in just enough liquid to be all absorbed by the end of the cooking. To wash the cereal, put it in a a basin with cold water, stir and then leave to settle. Pour off the water carefully. Add the cereal to the boiling liquid in a saucepan and cook gently until clear. Sago and small tapioca take about 15 minutes. If milk is used for the liquid, it is easier if the cooking is done over boiling water, allowing about 20 minutes. There is then no danger of boiling over or burning.
  1174. Sago or tapioca cream

  1175. Cooking time 25 minutes.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    2 oz, sago or small tapioca (4 Tbs.)1-2 oz. sugar (2-4 Tbs.)
    ¼ tsp. salt2 eggs
    1 pt. milk (1 c.)Vanilla essence to taste

    Measures level. Heat the milk in the top of a double boiler. Add the sago to the milk with the salt and sugar. Bring to the boil and then cook over boiling water until the sago is clear, about 20 minutes. Add the beaten egg yolks and cook for 5 minutes. Add the flavouring and fold in the stiffle beaten egg whites. Serve hot or cold with jam or fruit sauce.

  1176. Lemon sago or tapioca

  1177. Cooking time 15 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 oz, sago or small tapioca (4 Tbs.)Grated rind and juice 1-2 lemons
    1 pt. water ( 2c.)3 oz. syrup (3 Tbs.)
    Pinch of salt

    Measures level. Boil the sago as in No. 624 and add the meon and syrup at the end. Serve cold in individual dishes with cream or fruit salad. The mixture thickens on cooling.

  1178. Date butterscotch pudding

  1179. Cooking time 15 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 oz, sago or small tapioca (4 Tbs.)½ c. chopped dates
    1 pt. milk or water water ( 2c.)1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)
    2 oz. brown sugar (4 Tbs.)½ tsp. mixed spice
    Pinch of saltVanilla essence to taste

    Measures level. Boil the sago according to No. 624, adding the sugar,salt, dates, butter and spice during cooking. Flavour to taste and serve hot or cold with cream or custard.

  1180. Porridge

  1181. Traditional porridge is made with medium or coarse oat-meal. It must not be stale, or the flavour will be poor. Oat-meal enthusiasts often bur by mail order from the miller. Rolled oats or porridge oats, on the other hand, keep better because they have been heated during the rolling process. They also need a shorted cooking time. Instructions for making rolled oat porridge are usually given on the packet, otherwise use the recipe below.
  1182. Oatmeal porridge

  1183. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4-6 oz, medium or coarse oatmeal (½-¾ c.)2 pt. water
    2 tsp. salt

    If thick porridge is required use the larger amount of oatmeal. Soak the oatmeal overnight in the water. Add the salt, bring to the boil and cook for 15-20 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.

  1184. Porridge with rolled oats

  1185. Cooking time 1-10 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    6-8 oz, rolled oats (2-2½ c.)2 level tsp. milk
    2 pt. water (4 c.) or milk

    If thick porridge is required use the larger amount of cereal. Mix the cereal with a little of the cold water. Boil the rest and pour onto the cereal, stirring well. Add the salt. Return to the pan, stir until it boils, and occasionally during cooking.

  1186. Swiss breakfast dish (Muesli)

  1187. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 oz, rolled oats (1⅓ c.)2-4 tsp. sugar
    ½ c. cream or evaporated milklemon juice
    ½-¾ lb. raw grated apple (2 medium)Chopped nuts

    Measures level Soak the cereal overnight in barely enough water to cover. Beat up well with the other ingredients and serve without cooking. Add lemon juice and nuts to taste. This is specially suitable for summer breakfasts.

  1188. Prepared breakfast cereals

  1189. These include such things as wheat and cornflakes, puffed wheat and rice, and other similar preparations. Unless the packet is freshly opened and the cereal in good condition, it is improved by heating in a warm oven before serving. This makes it fresh and crispy again.

    Breakfast cereals are served with milk or cream and fruit, or may be served with fruit juices instead of milk. Wheat or cornflakes may be crushed and the crumbs used in place of breadcrumbs in puddings and meat loaves. Fold the flakes in a clean towel and crush with a rolling pin or use a blender. 4 c. flakes gives 1 c. crumbs.

  1190. Cereal topping

  1191. ½ c. cereal crumbs, see No. 6322 Tbs. brown sugar
    ¼ c. chopped nuts1 Tbs melted margarine

    Measures level Mix the ingredients together and use them to sprinkle on top of a bread pudding or instead of the flour mixture for apple crisp, No. 606.

  1192. Cooking semolina and ground rice

  1193. Fine semolina and ground rice may be used in the same way as cornflour. Either the fine or coarse semolina is suitable for puddings. Although coarse semoline can successfully be sprinkled into boiling liquid as directed in may recipes, I find the easier way with both fine and coarse is to mix it to a paste with a little of the cold liquid and then add the rest boiling, in the same way as using cornflour. Lumps are much less likely this way. Fine semolina will cook in about 5-8 minutes, coarse needs 15 minutes.
  1194. Semolina pudding

  1195. Cooking time 5-15 minutes

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4½ Tbs. semolina1½ pt. milk (3 c.)
    2 Tbs. sugarFlavouring
    Pinch of salt

    Measures level Mix the semolina, sugar and salt with a little of the cold milk. Boil the rest and pur it onto the blended mixture. Return to the pan and stir until it boils. Boil for 5-15 minuites, or cook over hot water for 15-30 minutes. The latter method is easier, as there is no danger of the pudding catching. Stir occasionally during cooking. Add flavouring to taste. This plain pudding may be served hot or cold with fruit or jam, or may have a little grated nutmeg sprinkled on top and be baked in a moderate oven 375°F (190°C) Mark 5, for 20 minutes or until brown on top.

  1196. Creamed semolina

  1197. Make according to No. 635, but do not add the sugar until near the end of cooking. Mix it with one egg and stir in for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Serve as before.
  1198. Baked milk pudding

    (using rice, tapioca, sago)

    Cooking time 1-2 hours for sago and tapioca; 2-3 hours for rice.

    Temperature 300°F. (150°C.) Mark 1.

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

    1½ oz. cereal (3 Tbs.)Pinch of salt
    1 Tbs sugarGrated nutmeg
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)

    Measures level

    1. Wash the cereal by putting it in a dish and covering with cold water. Stir well and leave to settle. Then pour off the water. Coarse cereals may be put in a strainer and cold water run through.
    2. Put in a pie-dish with the milk, salt, sugar and grate a little nutmeg on top.
    3. Bake in a slow oven. Long, slow baking gives a creamy pudding. The pudding should be stirred two or three times at the beginning of cooking and any skin mixed in, as this helps to make it creamy. The last part of cooking should be undisturbed to allow a final skin to settle and brown.
  1199. Baked chocolate milk pudding

  1200. Make according to No. 637, mixing 3 level Tbs. cocoa with a little of the cold milk and adding it to the rest of the milk, with a little vanilla essence and an extre 1 or 2 Tbs. sugar. Leave out the nutmeg.
  1201. Baked caramel milk pudding

  1202. Make according to No. 637 using a level Tbs sugar. Heat the sugar with 1 Tbs. water in a heavy saucepan until it turns a light caramel colour. Heat the milk and dissolve the caramel in the hot milk. Add a little vanilla essence and leave out the nutmeg.
  1203. Recipe for making a mould

    (using rice, small tapioca, sago)

    Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 oz. cereal (4 Tbs.)Flavouring to taste
    1 pt. liquid (2.c)½ oz. butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)
    3 Tbs sugarPinch of salt

    Measures level

    1. Milk, fruit juice, coffee etc. are suitable for the liquid. Wash the cereal as in No. 637 and add to the boiling liquid stirring well all the time.
    2. Cook until sago and tapioca are clear or the rice is tender. If milk is used it will be easier to prevent sticking and burning if you cook the mixture in a double boiler after it has come to the boil. In that case the cooking time will be half as long again.
    3. Add the sugar, salt and flavouring and stir in the fat which greatly improves the texture. Pour into a mould and leave to set.
  1204. Cereal mould with egg

  1205. Make recipe No. 640, adding 1-2 beaten eggs with the sugar. Cook for a few minutes longer without boiling. As the eggs help to thicken the mould, less cereal need be used, ½-1 oz. less depending on the number of eggs used.
  1206. Pear or peach condé

  1207. Make the mould accoding to No. 641, using rice. The mixture may either be set in a basin and then turned out, or formed into a mound on the serving dish. Cook the pears gently in syrup according to No. 589, adding vanilla essence to flavour; or use canned fruit. Arrange the fruit round the mound of rice and serve cold. Chopped preserved ginger is very good sprinkled on pears.
  1208. Banana meringue

  1209. Cooking time 1 hour.

    Quantities for 6 portions:

    1½ oz. rice (3 Tbs.)½ pt. water (1 c.)
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)Vanilla essence
    6 oz. sugar (¾ c.)4 large bananas
    2 eggsRed and yellow jam or jelly
    ½ oz butter (1 Tbs.)Salt

    Measures level Boil the rice in the milk with 2 Tbs. sugar, see No. 640. When tender add the egg yolks and the butter. Season with a pinch of salt and and spread in a shallow heat-resisting serving dish. Make a syrup with 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) sugar and the water. Flavour well with vanilla. Peel the bananas and slice in half lengthwise and the across. Poach until tender in the syrup. Drain and arrange on the rice. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt and, when stiff, fold in the remaining 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) sugar. Put in small heaps over the bananas and bake in a slow oven 350°F (180°C) Mark 3 until the merinue is set and very lighly browned. Decorate between heaps of meringue with alternating colours of jam. Serve hot or cold.

  1210. Lemon meringue pudding

  1211. Cooking time 30-40 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1½ oz. sago or small tapioca (3 Tbs.)Grated rind 1 lemon
    1 pt. milk (2 c.)1½ Tbs. lemon juice
    3 Tbs. sugarMeringue
    2 egg yolks2 egg whites
    ½ oz butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)2 Tbs. sugar

    Measures level Cook the cereal in the milk as in recipe No. 640, adding the egg yolks with the sugar. Add the lemon at the end and pour into a greased baking-dish. Cover the top with meringue, see No. 765. Bake in a slow over 350°F. (180°C.) mark 3, until the meringue is set. Serve hot.

  1212. Recipe for making a mould

    (using cornflour, arrowroot, fine semolina or ground rice). Cooking time 5-8 minutes.

    Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 Tbs. cerealFlavouring to taste
    2 Tbs. sugar½ oz. butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)
    Pinch salt1 pt. liquid (2 c.)

    Measures level

    1. Mix the first three ingredients to a smooth paste with a little cold liquid. This may be milk, fruit juice, coffee etc. Boil the rest of the liquid and pour into the blended mixture, stirring well.
    2. return to the pan and stir until it boils. Cook gently for 1 minute for arrowroot and 5-8 minutes for the other cereals. Care should be taken not to use too much cereal as this makes the mixture difficult to cook and unpleasant to eat.

      If milk is used for the liquid you will find it easier to cook over boiling water in a double boiler. In that case allow 20 minutes' cooking. Add flavour to taste and the fat.

    3. Grease the mould lightly with oil as this gives the finished mould a sheen. Pour in the mixture and leave until quite cold before turning out.

      Serve with stewed or bottled fruit, fresh fruit salad, No. 584 or jam sauce, No. 101.

  1213. Mould with egg

  1214. Use 1 Tbs. less cereal for each egg added. Make according to No. 645, adding one or two beaten eggs at the end of the cooking. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes longer without boiling. If preferred, the yolks only may be used and the whites beaten stiffly and folded in when cooking is finished.
  1215. Chocolate mould

  1216. Make according to No. 645, adding an extra Tbs. of sugar and 3 Tbs. cocoa with the cereal. Flavour with vanilla essence. Serve with stewed fruit or fruit sauce, No. 100. Rhubard, pears and plums are specially good with chocolate mould. For variety add 1 tsp. grated orange rind to the cooked mould.
  1217. Chocolate mould with raisins

  1218. Make as No. 647, and stir in 2 Tbs. raisins before pouring it into the mould. Turn out and serve with gooseberry or raspberry jam, or jam sauce, No. 101.
  1219. Coffee mould

  1220. Make according to No. 645, using half milk and half strong black coffee. Flavour with vanilla. Serve with cream or decorate with cream.
  1221. Fruit mould

  1222. Make according to No. 645, using milk for the liquid. Decorate the bottom of individual moulds with canned or stewed fruit drained from the liquid. Pour in the mould and leave to set. Serve with a sauce made with the fruit juice, see No. 100.
  1223. Ring mould with fruit

  1224. Make according to No. 645, using milk or fruit juice for the liquid. Pour into a greased ring or border mould and leave to set. Turn out and fill the centre with fresh fruit salad, No. 584 or with fruit compote, No. 589.
  1225. Desserts

  1226. These are made in exactly the same way as the mould, No. 645, except that less cereal is used and the dessert in served in individual dishes instead of being moulded. They may be decoradted by piping the top with whipped cream and adding cherries and chopped fruit.

    2-3 Tbs. cornflour, arrowroot, fine semolina, ground rice, or custard powder2 Tbs. sugar
    Pinch of salt1 pt. liquid ( 2 c.)
    Flavouring½ oz. butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)

    Method as for No. 645.

  1227. Butterscotch dessert

  1228. Make according to No. 652 but leave out the sugar and fat. Heat ½ oz. (1 Tbs.) butter with 4 oz. brown sugar (½ c.) until liquid. Add this to the cooked pudding and stir until is dissolves. Flaovour with vanilla essence and pour into individual dishes. Serve very cold. This is very much improved if you can spare 2 egg whites to beat stiff and add at the end. Fold them in gently. The yolks may be used, too, as in No. 646, or kept for some other dish.
  1229. Caramel dessert

  1230. Heat 4 Tbs. sugar and 2 Tbs. water in a small heavy pan until it has turned a light caramel in colour. Make the dessert according to No. 652, using milk for the liquid and dissolving the caramel in the hot milk before proceding in the usual way. Flavour with vanilla essence.
  1231. Chocolate peppermint dessert

  1232. Make according to No. 652. Divide in two portions. Mix 3 Tbs cocoa and an extra 2 Tbs. sugar with a little boiling water and stir into one half. Flavour with vanilla. Colour the other half pale green and flavour with peppermint essence. Put the two mixtures in alternative layers in individual glasses
  1233. Mocha dessert

  1234. Make accoring to No. 652, adding 2 Tbs. cocoa and an extra 2 Tbs. sugar with the cereal and using half milk and half coffee for the liquid. Flavour with vanilla. Less sugar may be used if a bitter-sweet mocha is preferred.
  1235. Dessert with fruit pureé

  1236. Use 1 lb. (500 g.) fruit to make a pureé as in No. 602. Make it up to 1 pt. (2 c.) with water and use this liquid to make the dessert. Any fruit may be used but some of the best are blackberries, elderberries, quinces, raspberries, loganberries, black or red currants, cranberries, damsons, apples flavoured with spice or lemon rind, and rhubarb. Some extra sugar may be needed with sour fruits.

    Sugar, sweets, icings and cake fillings

  1237. Food value

  1238. Sugar is chiefly a source of calories. It is more easily digested than foods like fats, cereals and starches and is specially useful when the body needs an immediate supply of energy. It also relieves fatigue after strenuous exertion. Unfortunately, sugar eaten in excess dulls the appetite for other important foods, which is a serious matter where children are concerned. If more sugar is eaten than is needed for the energy we expend, the surplus is stored in the body as fat.
  1239. Kinds of sugar and ways of using

  1240. BARBADOS SUGAR. A fine, dark brown sugar used in making fruit cakes and gingerbreads of certain kinds. Also used for sprinkling on porridge. The flavour is too strong for it to be used for sweetening fruit.

    CASTER SUGAR. A fine, white sugar useful for most sweetening purposes, especially for sprinkling on puddings and fresh fruit and for cake making, when it produces a finer texture than granulated sugar.

    DEMERARA SUGAR. A coarse, light-brown sugar, mainly used on porridge and for sweetening coffee. It is too coarse to be used successfully in cake making, but may be used to sweeten fruit.

    GLUCOSE. Sold in powder or liquid form. Generally used for medicinal purposes and mixed with other sugar to produce a fine texture in sweets and icings.

    GRANULATED SUGAR. A coarse, white sugar used for general cooking purposes.

    HONEY. Used mainly as a spread, but may be used in cakes in the same way as syrup and for sweetening fruit.

    ICING SUGAR. A powdered sugar used mainly for icings and for sprinkling on cakes and puddings for decoration. It is used in some kinds of cakes and biscuits where a specially fine texture is required.

    LOAF SUGAR. This is granulated sugar in lumps, convenient for serving with beverages, It is also useful for rubbing on to oranges and lemons to obtain a slight flavour for a sauce or pudding.

    MAPLE SUGAR OR SYRUP. This is made from the sugar maple tree and is very much used in Canada and the USA. Syrup can be used in the same way as golden syrup.

    PIECES. A fine, light-brown sugar used for general cooking purposes where brown sugar is specified. Also called soft brown sugar.

    GOLDEN SYRUP. Used for a spread and for making cakes, puddings, sauces and for sweetening fruit.

    TREACLE. Darker than syrup, but can be used in the same way in any dish where a stronger flavour is not a disadvantage. It is a good source of iron.

    JAM. Contains 60 percent sugar and can be used for sweetening sauces and puddings.

  1241. Sugar temperatures used in making sweets and icings

  1242. When sugar is heated, either alone or with a little water, it first of all melts or dissolves in the water and then comes to the boil. The longer it boils the hotter it becomes, until it turns brown or caramelizes, and finally chars or burns. Different kinds of sweet are made by stopping the cooking at different temperatures. Although these temperatures may be guessed at, it is much safer and more satisfactory to use a sugar thermometer. The same one is suitable for deep-fat frying, see No. 149.

    It is important to use the temperature recommended in the recipe if good results are expected.

    THREAD STAGE. 225°F. (110°C.). When a little syrup is dropped from a spoon a very fine thread is seen.

    SOFT BALL STAGE. 240°F. (115°C.). When a little syrup is dropped into a cup of cold water it can be gathered together in a small ball.

    HARD BALL STAGE. 250°F. (120°C.). As for soft ball, but instead the syrup forms a hard ball.

    CRACK OR BRITTLE STAGE. 290°F. (145°C.). When the syrup is dropped into a cup of cold water it immediately hardens and crackles. With a plain sugar and water toffee this stage is reached when the mixture turns pale brown.

    CARAMEL STAGE. 350°F. (180°C.). The syrup turns brown.

    If the sugar and water syrup is stirred during boling it forms crystals, therefore all sweets are made without stirring after the syrup has come to the boil. Some syrup crystallizes on the sides of the pan, and this can be washed down with a pastry-brush dipped in water. Lemon juice, glucose or cream of tartar is sometimes added to recipes to keep the texture of the sweet becoming coarse and granular.

    Fudges and similar sweets are stirred and beaten after cooking, then they have cooled to 110°F. (45°C.). If a fine texture is desired, the sweets should never be neaten during or immediately after cooking has finished.

  1243. Glazing with sugar

  1244. Certain swett dishes, such as custards and fruit dishes, are improved by being glazed with sugar after cooking. This may be done by sprinkling with icing sugar and heating under a fierce grill until the sugar caramelises.

    Buns and other yeast mixtures are glazed by brushing with a mixture of sugar and water as soon as they come out of the oven. To make the glaze mix 2 level Tbs. sugar with 3 Tbs. water and bring to the boil.

  1245. Coloured sugar

  1246. This is used for decorating cold sweets and cakes. It is made by putting granulated sugar on a plate and adding a few drops of the required colour. Work it into the sugar with the fingers and spread in a warm place to dry thoroughly before storing in a covered jar for use.
  1247. Lemon or orange sugar

  1248. Rub lumps of sugar over the rind of an orange or lemon until the sugar is well coloured. Crush and dry in a warm place before storing. Use for flavouring puddings and sauces.

    Toffees and sweets

  1249. Plain toffee

  1250. 8 oz. granulated sugar (1 c.)⅛ pt. of water (¼ c.)
    Pinch of cream of tartar

    Measures level. Heat together in a pan stirring until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture boils. Boil without stirring until the toffee reaches the crack stage (290°F., 145°C.), see No. 660. Pour into a greased flat tin and mark in squares. Break when cold. To make nut toffee, put the prepared nuts in a greased tin and pour the toffee over. Almonds and peanuts should be blanched and roasted.

  1251. Toffee apples

  1252. 6 medium-sized applesToffee recipe No. 664

    Wash the apples and wipe them dry. Fasten each one on a stick or wooden skewer. Make the toffee, remove from the heat and dip the spples quicly before it has time to set, twisting each one round to coat it well. Stand on greased tray to set, with the sticks upright.

  1253. Marzipan toffees

  1254. Roll marzipan, No. 685 into small balls. If walnuts are available press one half on each side of the marzipan, but the balls may be dipped alone. Make toffee, No. 664. Remove the pan from the heat and dip each sweet in the toffee, suing a cocktail stick or a small piece of wire with a loop on the end. Place on a greased baking tray and leave to harden. You must work quickly, or the toffee will set before the sweets are coated.
  1255. Cinnamon drops

  1256. Quantities for 24 drops:

    4 oz. granulated sugar (1 c.)2½ tsp. ground cinnamon
    ¼ c. water

    Measures level. Mix the cinnamon and sugar, add the water and cook as plain toffer, No. 664. Drop from the point of a teaspoon in small blobs on to a greased tray. Leave to harden.

  1257. Chocolate fudge

  1258. ½ pt. milk (½ c.)3 Tbs. cocoa
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)Punch of salt
    ¾ lb. sugar (1½ c.)½ tsp. vanilla essence

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together, except the vanilla. Stir and heat until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture boils. Boil gently until it reaches the soft ball stage, see No. 660. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to 110°F. (45°C.). Then add the vanilla and beat hard until the mixture is thick. Pour into a greased tin and mark in squares. Leave overnight before cutting.

  1259. Crumb fudge

  1260. 2 Tbs. syrup6 oz. cereal crumbs, No. 632 or sweet biscuit crumbs (1 c.)
    2 oz. margarine (50 g.)2 oz. cocoa (6 Tbs.)
    1 tsp. saltVanilla essence

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together very thoroughly and tunrn into a greased 7-inch tin (18 cm.), spreading the mixture out smoothly with a palette knife. Mark into fingers or squares and leave overnight before cutting. For variety a dozen chopped dates or nuts may be added to the other ingredients.

  1261. Coconut ice

  1262. 1 lb. sugar (2 c.)5 oz. coconut (1½ c.)
    ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)Colouring to taste

    Measures level. Mix the sugar and milk in a pan and bring to the boil, stirring until dissolved. Boil gently until it reaches the soft ball stage, see No. 660. Add the coconut and colour to taste or leave white. Pour into a shallow greased tin, mark in squares and leave to set. If desired the mixture may be divided in two after the coconut has been added. Pour one half into a tin, colour the other pink, and pour on top of the first lot to make two layers.

  1263. Marshmallows

  1264. 8 oz. granulated sugar (1 c.)1½ Tbs. gelatine
    ½ hot water pt. (1 c.) ½ tsp. cream of tartar
    Vanilla or other flavouring

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients except the flavouring and heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Pour into a basin and leave to cool until a skin begins to form on top. Then beat hard until the mixture is thick and white. Add flavouring to taste and pour into a greased tin which as been dusted with icing sugar. When quite set cut in cubes and roll in icing sugar. This may be varied by adding chopped dates, cherries, or nuts to the mixture before pouring it into the tin.

  1265. Turkish delight

  1266. 1 oz. gelatine (3 Tbs.)½ Tbs. lemon juice
    1 lb. sugar (500 g.)Flavouring and colouring to taste
    ½ pt. hot water (1 c.)

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients except the flavouring and colouring and heat until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil gently for 2 or 3 minutes. Add flavouring and colouring and pour into a dish which as been rinsed with cold water. Leave to set. Cut in squares and roll in crushed and sieved icing sugar.

    To make Crème de Menthe, flavour the mixture with a few drops of peppermint essence and colour a pale green.

    Icings

  1267. General information

  1268. The elaborate decorations that confectioners make for wedding cakes are learnt by much practice, but it is possible to produce very artistic effects with simple home decorations. Sets of icing tubes may be purchased either with a forcing tube to match or you can use a cone-shaped nylon bag with a hole in the end just large enough to take the icing tube. If you have not used these before it is a good plan to practice the design you want to make on a flat plate. The icing can be scraped off and used again on the cake. Suitable icings to are Nos. 677-84 or Nos. 686-7, and the mixture should be stiff enough to hold its shape, but not so stiff that forcing is difficult. For writing, water icing, No. 674 is the best to use, and a tube with a small round hole in the end. If you are not skilled in writing with icing you will find it a help to prick the letters lightly on the cake with the point of a fine skewer or darning needle and then follow the marking with the icing. In the same way you can mark the places for your decorations.

    Ready made decorations can be bought at most stores and only require to fe fixed in position with moist icing.

    The following are other useful decorations:

    • Coloured sugars, see No. 662
    • Candies fruits and marzipan fruits
    • Chopped or whole nuts
    • Crystallized cherries and other fruits
    • Angelica, greet for stems of flowers
    • Coconut, desiccated or shredded
    • Chocolate shavings made by warming a bar of chocolate slightly and cutting shavings with a knife
    • Coloured sweets

    Flavouring and colourings must be added very carefully. The easiest way with flavourings is to tip a little in a teaspoon and add drop by drop to the icing. Colours are generally stronger, and they should be added by dipping a metal skewer into the colour and letting a drop fall into the icing. Pale colours always look better than vivid ones.

    When making orange or lemon icings, use the juice for mixing and also some of the finely grated yellow rind.

    TO ICE WITH ROYAL ICING. Place the cake on an upturned plate, with a piece of clean paper under to catch any icing that drops. Pour the icing into the centre of the cake and let it flow over the top and round the sides. Take a palette knife and dip it in hot water. Run it round the sides of the cake to give a smooth finish. It is better to leave the top alone and it should be smooth with the icing which has flowed over.

    If a glacé icing is used this should be poured over and not smoothed with a knife. If a butter or fudge icing is used it is spread on with a knife dipped in hot water. The surface may be made smooth for decorating or roughed with the knife or a fork.

    Small cakes should be put on a flat knife or a clean cake rack and the icing poured over. Have a clean piece of paper under the knife or rack to catch icing as it falls. For putting a small blob of icing on biscuits or small cakes use a teaspoon and let the icing spread itself, or, dip the top os the biscuit in the icing.

  1269. Glacé or water icing

  1270. 8 oz. icing sugar (250 g.)Flavouring and colouring to taste
    Warm water or fruit juice - about 2 Tbs.

    Measures level. Cruch and sieve the icing sugar. Mix with warm liquid or mix over hot water. Add enough liquid to make the icing coat the back of a spoon without running off too freely. Beat well and add colouring and flavouring to taste. Pour over the cake as described in No. 673. The icing should dry with a shine but will lose the shine if overheated. ½ oz. ( 1Tbs.) butter or margarine may be added for each ½ lb. of icing sugar used.

  1271. Chocolate glacé icing

  1272. Add to No. 674 4-6 level Tbs. cocoa mixed with a little boiling water. Flavour with vanilla. It may also be made by adding 2 oz. (50 g.) chocolate melted over boiling water.
  1273. Coffee glacé icing

  1274. Make as No. 674, using coffee essence or strong black coffee for the liquid.
  1275. Butter icing

  1276. Quantities for inside and top of an 8-inch sandwich:

    8 oz. icing sugar (250 g.)Flavouring and colouring to taste
    1-3 oz. butter or maragine (25-75g.)Milk, water, or fruit juice.

    Measures level. Soften the fat and beat in the crushed and sieved icing sugar, adding enough liquid to give the desired consistency. It should be thick enough to hold its shape for piping or spreading, but thinner so spread over a cake. Flavour and colour to taste. This icing does not harden on standing.

  1277. Chocolate butter icing

  1278. Make as No. 677, adding 2 oz. (50 g.) melted chocolate or 6 level Tbs. cocoa mixed with a little boiling water. Flavour with vanilla.
  1279. Mocha butter icing

  1280. Make as No. 678, adding 1 tsp. soluble coffee.
  1281. Chocolate orange icing

  1282. Make as No. 678, adding the grated rind of half an orange and using the juice for mixing.
  1283. Coffee butter icing

  1284. Make as No. 677, adding soluble coffee to taste and flavouring with vanilla essence.
  1285. Orange or lemon butter icing

  1286. Make as No. 677, adding the grated rind of 1 orange or 1 lemon and using the juice for mixing.
  1287. Liqueur icing

  1288. Make according to No. 674 or No. 677, adding wine, brandy, rum or liqueur for the liquid.
  1289. Spicy icing

  1290. Make according to No. 674, adding ¼ level tsp. each of ground nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon.
  1291. Almond paste or marzipan

  1292. Quantities for inside and top of an 8-inch (20 cm.) cake:

    8 oz. ground almonds (250 g.)2 egg yolks
    8 oz. icing sugar (250 g.) or 4 oz. icing sugar and 4 oz. caster sugar2 tsp. lemon juice
    Few drops almond essence¼ tsp. rosewater

    Measures level. Mix the almonds and sugar together. Add the beaten egs and flavouring and mix and knead very thoroughly. To cover a cake, turn upside down and brush over with melted jelly or a thick sugar and water syrup to make the paste stick. Roll a piece of paste into a circle the size of the top of the cake and roll strips for the sides. Leave overnight to set before covering with white icing.

  1293. Royal icing

  1294. Quantities for inside and top of an 8-inch (20 cm.) cake:

    1 lb. icing sugar (500 g.)Juice of ½ lemon
    2 egg whitesWater if necessary

    Measures level. Roll and sieve the icing sugar. Beat the egg whites and mix in the sugar and the lemon, beating well until the mixture is thick and light. Use as described in No. 673.

  1295. Marshmallow icing

  1296. (May be used in place of royal icing.)

    Quantities for inside and top of an 8-inch (20 cm.) cake:

    3 tsp. gelatineFlavouring and colouring to taste
    ¼ pt. hot water (½ c.)8 oz. icing sugar (250 g.)

    Measures level. Dissolve the gelatine in the hot water. Allow to cool but not set. Roll and sieve the icing sugar. Beat in the liquid gradually and beat until the mixture is thick and shiny. Add flavouring and colouring to taste. This does not set hard like royal icing. It may be used for piping. This icing may also be made using granulated sugar. Boil it with the water and gelatine for 2-3 minutes until it begins to thicken, and then beat until thick enough to spread.

  1297. Fudge icing

  1298. Quantities for a 6-8-inch (15-20 cm.) cake:

    1 oz. margarine 25 g.½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    8 oz. granulated sugar (250 g.)Flavouring to taste

    Measures level. Mix the ingredients together and stir well until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture boils. Cook to the soft ball stage, see No. 660. Then beat until the right consistency for spreading. Flavour to taste.

  1299. White mountain icing

  1300. Quantities for a 8-inch (20 cm.) cake:

    8 oz. granulated sugar (250 g.)¼ c. hot water
    Pinch of cream or tartar1 egg white
    Pinch of baking powderPinch of salt
    1 Tbs. lemon juice

    Measures level. Mix the sugar, cream of tartar and baking powder in a small pan. Add the water and stir until it boils. Beat the egg white and salt until stiff and beat in the sugar syrup a spoonful at a time. When half has been added, add the lemon juice and the rest of the syrup. Put the basin over boiling water and beat hard until it reaches the desired consistency. If it becomes too thivk add a little boiling water and continue to beat over the hot water. Unlike royal icing, this does not set hard.

  1301. Milk chocolate icing

  1302. Quantities for a 6-8-inch (15-20 cm.) cake:

    1 oz. margarine (25 g.)1 c. sifted icing sugar
    2 Tbs. cocoa or 1 oz. chocolate (25 g.)Pinch of salt
    2½ Tbs. milk½ tsp. vanilla essence

    Measures level. Melt the margarine and cocoa or chocolate over hot water. Scald the milk and pour it hot into the icing sugar and salt. Stir until the sugar dissolves and add the vanilla. Add the chocolate mixture and cool a little. Beat until thick enough for spreading.

  1303. Butter cream

  1304. 4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)Milk
    2-4 oz. caster sugar or icing sugar (4-8 Tbs.)Flavouring

    Measures level. Cream the butter and sugar until very smooth and fluffy. Gradually beat in cold milk until it is the desired thickness. Flavour to taste. This is suitable for use as a cake filling or for piping and decorations

    Cake fillings

  1305. Confectioner's custard or crème pâtissière

  1306. 1 oz. cornflour(25 g.)1 egg
    1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    Pinch of saltVanilla essence to taste

    Measures level. Make a sauce by the blending method, No. 95, addint the egg yolk to the sauce during making, and folding the stiffly-beaten egg white in at the end. If necessary, thin with a little cream or top milk. Add the vanilla and cool before using, strirring occasionally as it cools.

  1307. Coffee filling

  1308. Add soluble coffee to taste to No. 692.
  1309. Lemon curd

  1310. Rind and juice of 2 lemons2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)
    3 eggs8 oz. sugar (1 c.)

    Measures level. Grate the lemon rind and strain the juice. Beat the egg slightly. Put all the ingredients in a pan and cook slowly over boiling water until the mixture thickens slightly. It will thicken more when it cools. If required for keeping pour at once into hot, sterilised jars and seal while hot.

  1311. Orange filling

  1312. 4 oz. sugar (½ c.)½ Tbs lemon juice
    1 Tbs. cornflour1 egg
    Rind ½ orange1 tsp. butter
    ¼ c. orange juice

    Measures level. Mix the ingredients in the order given and cook for 15 minutes over boiling water, stirring occasionally. Leave until cold before using. This makes enough for 2 or three cakes and will keep quite well in a cold place.

  1313. Butter cream filling

  1314. 2 Tbs. cornflour, custard powder or arrowroot2 oz. caster sugar (4 Tbs.)
    ½ pt. milk (1 c.)Flavouring to taste
    1 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)

    Measures level. Make the cornflour and milk into a sauce by the blending method, No. 95. Cook gently for 5 minutes or 10 minutes over boiling water. Press a margarine paper over the top and leave to cool. The paper prevents a skin from forming. Cream the margarine and sugar until white and like whipped cream. Then beat in the cool, but not cold, cornflour mixture a spoonful at a time. Beat thoroughly before adding each spoonful and flavour to taste with essence, lqiueur, orange or lemon rind.

    CHOCOLATE CREAM. Add 2 level Tbs. cocoa to the cornflour. Flavour with vanilla essence.

    COFFEE CREAM. Add coffee essence or soluble coffee to the milk. Flavour with vanilla essence.

  1315. Honey and almond filling

  1316. 4 oz. softened butter (125 g.)4 oz. honey (4 Tbs.)
    4 oz. ground almonds

    Measures level. Beat until creamy and soft and use to fill and ice a sandwich or layer cake. Decorate with almonds.

    Other recipes suitable for cake fillings are Nos. 677-684 and 687-691.

    Jellies and aspic

  1317. Food value

  1318. Gelatine is a protein. As very small amounts are used, any value the dish may have as a food comes from additions made to the jelly, such as milk, cream, eggs, meat, fish, etc.
  1319. Kinds of gelatine

  1320. The most popular are prepared jellies, either jelly crystals or in solid form. In either case all that is required to make them is the use of boiling water tp dissolve the gelatine. They consist of gelatine, sugar, flavouring and colouring.

    Plain granulated gelatine sold in packets is useful for making all kinds of jellies, as you then add flavouring and colouring to suit your own taste.

  1321. Using gelatine

  1322. It is advisable to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

    The general proportions of gelatine are ½ oz. (1½ level Tbs.) to each pint (2 c.) of liquid. In very hot weather, if you have no refrigerator or cold larder in which to put the jelly, a little more gelatine may be needed, but it is important not to add more than is absolutely necessary, for too much not only spoils the flavour, but also makes the jelly stiff and unappetising to eat. It should be stiff enough to hold its shape when turned out, but should quiver easily when the dish is shaken.

    When gelatine is added to a milk mixture the powder should first be dissolved in hot water and should not be added to milk until it is lukewarm or it will curdle.

    Acid liquids such as lemon juice and the juice from some bottles fruits need a little more gelatine. Fresh pineapple added to a jelly will prevent it from setting owing to an enzyme present in the fruit.

    Plain jellies may be beaten and made light an fluffy. To do this let the jelly become quite cold and begin to thicken. Then beat hard with an egg-whisk until it is thick and light. It may be set in a mould in the usual way or piled up in individual glasses. Sometimes half the mould is set with one type of jelly and then another kind of whipped jelly is poured on top and left to set. This gives an attractive appearance when the jelly is turned out.

  1323. Moulding the jelly

  1324. Metal moulds are the best, as jellies made in them are easier to turn out than from the thick porcelain or plastic moulds. They are sold in many different shapes and designs. A ring or border mould, one with a hole in the centre, is a very useful kind for special occasions.

    To set a jelly with fruit and vegetables in it allow the jelly to cool until it begins to thicken, then stir in the fruit or vegetables which have been well drained of all moisture. Stir well and pour into the mould. The slightly thickened jelly holds the fruit in place and prevents it from sinking to the bottom or floating to the top.

    To make layers of different kinds of fruit or vegetables in the jelly, begin by pouring in a layer of about ½ inch (1 cm.) of clear jelly. It is a great help to have some ice to put around the mould to hasten setting. Let the rest of the jelly cool until it just begins to thicken. When the layer of jelly is et, arrange the fruit or vegetables on it, making an attractive design. Then spoon the thickened jelly over in a thin layer. Arrange alternate layers of thickened jelly and the rest of the fruit and vegetables, finishing with jelly. Leave to set.

    If you want to decorate the sides of the mould also, press the decorations into the layer of thickened jelly, pushing them against the side of the mould. The thickened should hold them in position.

  1325. To turn out the mould

  1326. Have a basin of hot water deeper than the mould. Hold the mould in it for a few seconds with the water level with the top of the jelly. Remove and wipe dry. Loosen the jelly round the edge with the point of a sharp knife. Twirl the mould and shake to loosen the jelly. If it still sticks, heat again but be careful to to melt the jelly and thereby spoil the shape. Turn out on the dish.
  1327. Lemon or orange jelly

  1328. Quantities for 6-8 helpings:

    1 oz. gelatine (3 Tbs.)¼ pt. lemon or orange juice (1 c.)
    1½ pt. boiling water (3 c.)2-4 oz. sugar (4-8 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Dissolve the gelatine in the boiling water. Add the sugar and dissolve it. Add the strained juice. Pour into the mould or use as a basis for setting fruit as described in No. 701.

  1329. Lemon or orange snow

  1330. Quantities for 6-8 helpings:

    Rind and juice of 1½ lemons or 1 orange½ oz. gelatine (1½ Tbs.)
    1½ oz. sugar (3 Tbs.)1 egg white
    ½ pt. water (1 c.)Whipped cream

    Measures level. Peel off the yellow rind of the lemons very thinly, using a potato peeler. Put in a small pan with the sugar and water and bring to the boil. Strain on to the gelatine and stir until it dissolves, heating again if necessary. Allow to cool and then add the lemon juice and the egg white and whisk until stiff. Pile into glass dishes and garnish with whipped cream, slightly tinted if desired.

  1331. Crème de menthe jelly

  1332. Make lemon jelly, No. 703 or use packet jelly. Colour it plale green and flavour it with a few drops of peppermint essence but do not add enough to take away the flavour of the lemon. Pour into shallow glass dishes and serve with cream or custard handed separately.
  1333. Milk jelly

  1334. Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

    1 pt. packet jelly½ pt. evaporated milk (undiluted) (1 c.)
    ¼ pt. hot water (½ c.)¼ pt. cold water (½ c.)

    Dissolve the jelly in the hot water and add the cold water. When the jelly is cold and just beginning to set, add the milk gradually. Pour into the moulds. Turn out and serve with stewed fruit.

  1335. Milk jelly squares

  1336. Make the milk jelly in two different flavours and colours. Set in two shallow dishes and then cut into squares. Serve with fruit salad.
  1337. Cream whip

  1338. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    1 Tbs. gelatine¼ pt. undiluted evaporated milk, custard or cream (½ c.)
    ¾ pt. fruit juice (1½ c.)Sugar to taste
    Colouring to taste

    Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water. Add the fruit juice. Sweeten to taste and add colouring if necessary. Cool until the mixture is just beginning to set. Add the milk or cream and beat until light and frothy. Set in a mould or pile in individual dishes. Chopped fruit may be added.

  1339. Orange mousse

  1340. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    1 pt. packet orange jelly (2 c.)2 egg whites
    ¼ pt. evaporated milk or single cream (½ c.)1 oz. caster sugar (2 Tbs.)
    Orange slices to garnishWhipped cream (optional)

    Measures level. Make the jelly with only half the usual amount of water. Cool and when it begins to thicken, add the milk or cream and beat until light. Beat the agg whites stiff and beat in the sugar. Fold this into the jelly and put the mixture in a large bowlor individual dishes. Serve garnished with whipped cream and slices of fresh orange or canned mandarin segments.

  1341. Bavarois

  1342. Cooking time 10 minutes.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    4 egg yolks¼ oz. gelatine (¾ Tbs.)
    ½ pt. milk (1 c.)½ pt. whipping cream (1 c.)
    2 oz. gran. sugar (4 Tbs.)1 oz. caster sugar (2 Tbs.)
    Flavouring

    Measures level. Mix egg yolks, milk, granulated sugar and gelatine and cook over boiling water or a very gently heat. Stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture begins to thicken and coat the back of the spoon. Stand the pan in cold water and stir occasionally until it cools. Whip the cream until thick and light but not stiff. Add the caster sugar and whip lightly into the cold egg mixture.

    Flavourings: Add to the egg mixture, either vanilla or almond essence; soluble coffee to taste; 3 oz. (75 g.) grated bitter chocolate; finely grated rind of one orange or lemon; kirsch; run or any liqueur.

  1343. Prune jelly

  1344. Quantities for 6-8 helpings:

    1 pb. prunes (500 g.)2 Tbs. sugar
    1½ pt. water (3 c.)1 Tbs. lemon juice or the grated rind of 1 orange
    Strip of lemon rind¾ oz. gelatine (2 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Soak the prunes overnight in water, add the lemon rind and then cook until the fruit is tender. Rub through a sieve, reheat, and add the gelatine. Stir until it dissolves. Add the sugar and lemon juice or orange rind, pour into the mould. Serve with custard or cream.

  1345. Golden jelly

  1346. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    ½ oz. gelatine (1½ Tbs.)4 Tbs. lemon juice
    1 pt. hot water (2 c.)Custard sauce or cream
    6 oz. golden syrup (6 Tbs.)Finely grated rind of 2 lemons

    Measures level. Dissolve the gelatine in the hot water. Add the syrup and lemon rind and stir until the syrup is dissolved. Add the lemon juice and pour into a mould to set. Serve with custard sauce or cream.

  1347. Charlotte russe

  1348. Quantities for a 2-pint (1 l.) soufflé dish:

    1 pt. lemon jelly (2 c.)4 Tbs. hot water
    Glacé cherries and angelica½ pt. double cream (1 c.)
    1 packet sponge fingers¼ pt. milk (½ c.)
    ½ oz. gelatine (1½ Tbs.)2 oz. caster sugar (4 Tbs.)
    Vanilla or liqueur

    Measures level. Prepare the jelly and allow it to cool. Put a ¼ inch (6 mm) layer in the bottom of a soufflé dish or similar dish. Chill to set the jelly. Arrange decorations of cherry and angelica on the jelly and spoon over more jelly to the depth of ½ inch (1 cm.) total. Chill to set. Trim the ends of the sponge fingers to make them fit upright round the sides of the dish. Dip each in jelly to make it stick in place. Chill again. Dissolve the gelatine in the water. Whip the cream lightly and gradually whip in the milk and sugar. Fold in the gelatine and add flavourings to taste. Pour carefully into the mould. Chill to set. Unmould and decorate with any remaining jelly, chopped. The recipe can be varied by adding chopped fruit to the cream mixture before putting it in the mould.

  1349. Cider jelly

  1350. Quantities for 4-5 helpings

    ¾ pt, water (1½ c.)½ pt. dry cider (1 c.)
    5 oz. sugar (10 Tbs.)2 Tbs lemon juice
    2 Tbs. gelatine

    Measures level. Heat the water and sugar. Dissolve the gelatine in the hot syrup and add the cider and lemon juice. pour into the moulds to set. The jelly may be used as a basis for setting fruit, see No. 701.

  1351. Norwegian trifle

  1352. Quantities for 3-4 helpings

    1 oz. gelatine (2 tsp.)½ tsp. grated lemon rind
    ¼ pt. water (½ c.)2 Tbs. lemon juice
    2 eggsRaspberry jam
    2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)Whipped cream

    Measures level. Heat half the water and dissolve the gelatine in it. Beat the egg yolks with 1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.), the lemon rind and the remaining water. Put in a small pan over a very gentle heat, or in a double boiler, and cook gently stirring frequently until the mixture begins to thicken a little. Add the gelatine and mix well. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice. Whisk th egg whites in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Add the remaining ounce of sugar and beat until thick. Fold the lemon mixture into the egg whites and pur into one large or several individual dishes. When set, cover with a layer of raspeberry jam and then decorate with whipped cream

  1353. Aspic jelly (with stock)

  1354. Use ready-prepared aspic or canned consommé

    Aspic jelly (without stock)

    1 oz. gelatine (1 ½ Tbs.)Juice of ½ lemon
    ⅛ pt. boiling water (¼ c.)½ tsp. salt
    ½ pt. cold water (1 c.)1 tsp. sugar
    ⅛ pt. vinegar (¼ c.)Pinch of pepper

    Measures level. Dissolve the gelatine in the boiling water. Add the other ingredients and use to set chopped vegetables, eggs, meat etc.

  1355. Glaze (for cold dishes)

  1356. Use Aspic Jelly, No. 726. As the jelly begins to thicken it is poured over the food to be coated. If decorations are used dip them in melted glaze and then fix them in place on a layer of glaze that has already set. Cover carefully with another layer of glaze.
  1357. Veal mould or jellied veal

  1358. Quantities for 6-8 helpings

    1½ lb. stewing veal,Bouquet garni
    Bacon rinds, bones or trimmings1 onion
    1 carrot1 tsp. salt
    1 turnip1½ pt. water or stock (3 c.)
    ½ oz. gelatine (1½ Tbs.)

    Measures level. Boil the veal, bacon rinds, seasoning, stock and vegetables together as in No. 336; or for ½ hour in the pressure cooker. When the meat is quite tender, strain and keep the liquid. Cut the meat in small pieces. Dissolve the gelatine in ½ pt. (1 c.) of the cooking liquid and cool until it is just beginning to set. Mix in the meat and pour into the mould which may first be decorated with a clear layer of jelly at the bottom as in No. 701. Serve with salad. Use the rest of the stock for soup or sauces.
    N.B. All meats suitable for brawn, see Nos. 325-30, may be prepared in the same way.

    Chapter 18 - Cakes, puddings, pastry and batters

  1359. Food value

  1360. These all have a high calorific value which comes from the flour, sugar and fat used to make them. Other ingredients such as eggs, milk and dried fruit add to their nutritive value to a limited extent.

    Cakes, puddings and psatries should be regarded as luxuries rather than necessities and not be eaten instead of more important foods like milk, cheese, meat, fish, fruits and vegetables. This is particularly important in the peoper feeding of children who will sometimes eat large quatities of cakes, biscuits and puddings instead of having a well balanced diet.

    People who lead sedentary lives, or who are over-weight are well advised to curtail their consumption of cakes, pudding and pastry.

  1361. Pre-prepared mixes and machine mixing

  1362. Cakes, puddings, pastry and batters are all available completely prepared (fresh, canned or frozen), or as packet mixes which only have to be mixed up and cooked. All these can be given a personal touch by different methods of fini9shing andd service, with sauces, ices, fillings and so on. Many people prefer to use their time and skill in this way rather than in preparing the basic mixture. Others find satisfaction in baking the old-fashioned way and today much of the hard work is removed by the use of electric mixing machines. Many people who could not make successful cakes by hand mixing now find new pleasure in home baking with the use of a machine.

    Although the recipes in this book are designed for hand mixing, they can all be done with a machine, using the appropriate bowls and beaters as recommended by the manufacturer. A large mixer is necessary for heavy things like mixing flour and fruit into a rich cake, mixing yeast doughs and making chouz pastry but a small portable mixer is suitable for the most important jobs of creaming fat and sugar and beating eggs, leaving only the final addition of dry ingredients to be carried out by hand. Wet mixtures like sponges and batters can be completely mixed by these smaller machines.

  1363. Choosing flour

  1364. Wheat flour is the most commonly used, and is sold as either plain or self-raising flour, which is plain flour with the raising agent already mixed in. Self-raising flour is suitable for scones, plain cakes and any recipes which use 3-4 level tsp. baking powder to 8 oz. (250 g.) plain flour. Although it is widley used for pastry-making, it does not give a true short pastry, but a crust like a rich scone or biscuit. This is preferred by some people. Self raising flour is not advisable for rich fruit cakes, as the large amount of raising agent tends to make the cakes rise up too much and then sink in the centre. Where the kind of flour is not specified in recipes, either plain or self-raising may be used.

    Plain flour is suitable for all cooking. It may be sold as a general-purpose flour for bread, cakes and pastry or as a flour generally prepared for either bread or cakes. A special cake-flour generally contains less gluten - the substance which makes flour tacky when it is mixed and kneaded. Too much gluten tends to make heavu cakes and pastry, especially if they are mixed or kneaded a lot.

    A good flour for special cakes such as sponges can be made by mixing ordinary plain flour with some cornflour, arrowroot, or soya flour. These contain no gluten. Instead of 8 oz. flour (1½ c.) use 7 oz. flour (1⅓ c.) and 1 oz. cornflour or soya flour sifted together. Scones and pastry which have been kneaded and rolled excessively become like rubber to handle, and are hard and tough when baked. This can be remedies in pastry by allowing the dought to 'rest' in a cool place for ¼-½ hour, then the gluten, which is responsible for the rubbery consistency loses some of its elasticity.

    Wheat-meal and whole-meal flours can be used in pastry, plain cakes and scones but are not suitable for rich and delicate cakes. They generally need more raising agent and moisture than whiter flours.

    Cornflour, arrowroot and soya flour are not suitable to use alone, as they contain no gluten and the cakes will not rise well, and will be dry and crumbly, but, as described above, they are useful for adding to ordinary wheat flour to make it suitable for special cakes. Soya flour also adds nourishment - particularly protein.

    Semolina, ground rice, oatmeal and barley products are used with a mixture of wheat flour to produce special results. They are not generally suitable for use alone.

    Choosing fats. See No 141.

  1365. Choosing sugar

  1366. For general notes on the types of sugar see No. 659. Caster sugar is considered the best for cake making and for sweet pastry, as it dissolves more readily than the coarser sugars and gives a finer cake. Syrup, honey and treacle can be used and generally produce a closer, more moist texture, desirable in chocolate cakes and gingerbreads. Some syrup is added to fruit cakes for moisture and extra flavour.
  1367. Preparing the dried fruit

  1368. Dried fruit is sold ready-prepared and does not usually need to be washed. It this is necessary, see that the fruit is dried before it is used in cakes, although to leave currants slightly moist improves them. Damp fruit will sink. Dates may have stones to be removed before chopping them; prunes can be easily stoned if they are first put in a warm oven for a few minutes. Peel is most often sold ready cut and mixed, but if it is bought in large pieces, removed the surplus sugar and cut or mince the peel finely so that the flavour will mix well with the other ingredients. Crystalised and glaceé fruits such as cherries and ginger are better if cut fairly small because they are heavy fruits and inclined to sink.

    Choosing and using eggs. See Nos. 179-81.

  1369. Choosing flavourings

    Cakes and puddings never need be dull in flavour, because of the wide variety of flavouring materials available. There are all the flavouring essences and spices, as well as chocolate and coffee. A pinch of salt, too, makes all the difference to the taste of sweet foods.
  1370. Raising agents - how mixtures are made light

    • BY AIR AND STEAM. Air is added to mixtures in three ways: by beating, as with a batter; by beating in eggs, as in sponges and creamed mixtures; and by folding a dough in layers, as when making flaky and puff pastry. When the mixture is cooked, it is made light by the expansion of cold air aided by the production of steam from water in the mixture. Mixyures which depend entirely on air and steam to make them light need careful handling in preparation and baking. They are: flaky and puff pastry, short pastry (using plain flour), true spones, choux pastry, Yorkshire pudding, pancakes and meringues.
    • BY CARBON DIOXIDE, which is a gas and expands on heating in the same way as air, and so lightens the mixture. Carbon dioxide is produced in mixtures in the three following ways:
      1. By using bicarbonate of soda and some acid such as cream or tartar, or the acid in sour milk, syrup or treacle. The last three are not very accurate as the amount of acid varies. 1 level tsp. bicarbonate of soda plus 2½ level tsp. cream of tartar are equal to 4 level tsp. baking powder. These two should be used in the correct proportions, as if too much soda is used the flavour and colour of the mixture are spoiled. The use of extra soda is, however, liked by some for example in soda bread and soda scones.
      2. By adding baking powder or golden raising powder. These consist of bicarbonate of soda and acid which may be cream of tartar or some other chemical. Their quality is controlled by law, and this is the most accurate way of raising mixtures.

        Baking powders deteriorate if allowed to become moist, so always buy them in sealed tins and store in a dry place.

        The amount of baking powder needed to raise a mixture depends on the method of mixing and the other ingredients used. A mixture containg a number of beaten eggs needs less baking powder than the same one with no eggs. One-stage cakes need more baking powder than well beaten ones such as those made be conventional methods, especially when a machine is used. It is advisable to use the amounts recommended in the recipes. When plain flour is specified in a recipe this is because self-raising flour has rather too much baking powder for best results and can give a coarse texture and a sunken cake.

      3. By using yeast, which is a plant, and feeds on the sugar in a mixture to give carbon dioxide. It also produces flavour and texture peculiar to yeast goods
  1371. Getting the right consistency

  1372. When mixing batters, cakes and doughs, it is very important to have the right consistancy. There are many ways of describing this but the following terms are used in all the recipes in this book.

    'Mix to a thin batter' means to add enough liquid to make the mixture the consistency of thin cream so that it flows easily when poured. It is used chiefly for Yorkshire puddings and pancakes.

    'Mix to a thick batter' means to add enough liquid to make a mixture that will still pour but spreads slowly when dropped from a spoon. It is used for drop scones, scotch pancakes, pikelets, fritters, some gingerbreads, and true spones.

    'Mix to a soft cake mixture' means to add enough liquid to make a mixture that will drop easily from a spoon with a sharp tap but is too thick to pour. This is the consistancy used for most cakes.

    'Mix to a thick cake consistancy' means to add enough liquid to make a mixture that is too sticky to handle and roll out, but stiff enough to keep a shape when put on a tray in small spoonfuls. Used for baking-powder breads, rock cakes and similar mixtures.

    'Mix to a soft dough' means to add enough liquid to make a mixture just stiff enough to handle and roll out. It should not be sticky to touch. It is used for scones, some biscuits, and yeast mictures. The term 'elastic dough' is sometimes used for this consistancy, but, with the exception of bread, the choice is unfortunate, for by the time a dough has become like elastic it is generally overmixed; see No. 721.

    'Mix to a stiff dough' means to add only enough liquid to make the ingredients hold together. It is the most difficult consistancy to get right and it is the cause of many failures in pastry making. It is used for all kinds of pastry and for some biscuits.

  1373. Preparing tins and trays for baked goods

  1374. For notes on the choice of trays and tins see No. 24. Modern baking trays do not need to be greased unless the cake mixture contains a lot of sugar and very little fat. To grease, use a pasty brush dipped in oil or use well-oiled fingers.

    Non-stick cake tins do not need greasing; others should be oiled and dusted with flour for plain cakes and sponges. A circle of non-stick paper in the bottom ensures easy removal of the cake.

    Rich cakes are usually baked in tins lined with grease-proof or non-stick paper, but this is a relic of the past and it is not necessary with modern ovens.

    To line a tin with paper, put the tin on the paper and mark round the bottom with the point of the scissors. Cut this piece out. Then cut a long string to go round the sides of the tin and about ½ inch (1 cm.) wider. Bend up ½ inch (1 cm.) all along one side and snip at regular intervals. Put this side-piece in the tin when the nicked edges should lie flat on the bottom. Put in the bottom piece to cover the nicked edges. This than makes a perfectly flat, smooth lining for the cake.

  1375. Where to place tins and trays in the oven

  1376. Ovens vary a great deal in the way that they are heated, and it is advisable to follow the maker's instructions. The following is intended ony for a general guide.

    Ovens heated from the bottom only (most gas ovens). Tarts, pies, small cakes and sandwiches, between the middle and top. Large cakes in the middle.

    Ovens heated from the sides and bottom (electric). Tarts, pies, small cakes and sandwiches, one tray middle and one tray toptop. Large cakes in the middle.

    Ovens heated from the top and bottom (electric). The middle or a bit below is best for baking.

    Solid fuel stoves. Small cakes and pastry near the top. Large cakes in the middle.

    Cakes and puddings

    Methods of mixing.

  1377. The one-stage method

  1378. The ingredients are put in the mixing bowl all together, the fat used being one of the modern soft margarines, or cooking fats, although butter, warmed to a soft consistency, can also be used.

    The ingredients are then beaten together by hand or machine until smooth. Some people use both self-raising flour and extra baking powder in these cakes. I think this spoils the flavour and prefer to use a recipe such as No. 748.

  1379. The melting method

    This is a very simple method of mixing, generally used for cakes containing syrup or treacle and for some steamed puddings.

    1. Sift the dry ingredients into the mixing-bowl and add any dried fruit in the recipe.
    2. Melt the fat and, if the recipe contains syrup or treacle, melt it with the fat. Sometimes the sugar is heated too, but may be added to the other dry ingredients.
    3. As soon as the fat and syrup are melted but not boiling, stir into the dry ingredients and mix to a thick batter, see No. 726. Eggs are beaten and added at the same time as the melted syrup and fat. Mix until the ingredients are well blended but do not over-beat.
    4. The pan should be well-greased, or lined with paper. Bake the cake as soon as it is mixed, and do not have the oven too hot, as cakes with syrup in them burn easily.
  1380. The rubbing method

    This method can be used for most mixtures where the amount of fat is not more than half the amount of flour by weight - for example, not more than 4 oz. fat to 8 oz. flour (125 g. to 250 g.).

    1. The dry ingredients such as flour, salt, baking powder, and any spices are sifted together to make sure they are well mixed.
    2. Then the fat is rubbed in by hand or machine until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs. For good results, this should be done thoroughly.
    3. Add the sugar and any dried fruit in the recipe.
    4. Beat the eggs thoroughly and add them with any other liquid in the recipe and the flavouring. Any syrup or honey is added at this stage too. Mix thoroughly but avoid over-mixing as this tends to make a heavy cake
  1381. The creaming method

    Best results are obtained if all the ingredients are at room temperature.

    1. Soften the fat, warming it if it is too hard but do not allow it to melt or it will not cream well. Beat well with the sugar using a wooden spoon, or mix by machine. Beat untilthe mixture is white and light and the sugar no longer feels gritty. This is why caster sugar is recommended than the coarser sugars. Any sugar or honey in the recipe should be creamed with the fat.
    2. Sift all the dry ingredients together to mix them well and to remove lumps.
    3. Beat in the eggs one at a time, adding some of the flour if the mixture shows signs of curdling.
      Add any flavouring essence.
    4. Stir in the rest of the dry ingredients, together with any additional liquid in the recipe, to make a soft cake consistency, see No. 726.
    5. Add any fruit and stir it in very gently. The cake should be mixed until the ingredients are smoothly blended.
  1382. The sponge method

    A true sponge is made with beaten eggs, sugar, flour and flavouring, and it depnds for its lightness on the air beaten in with the eggs. There are many variations of this method, some having a little melted fat added and some quite a lot.

    1. Better results are obtained if all the ingredients are at room temperature or slightly warm. Stand the mixing bowl containg the eggs in another bowl of hot water for a few minutes before beginning to beat them. Beat the eggs until fluffy and then beat in the sugar until the mixture is thick and light, so that when the beater is withdrawn the surface takes some time to level out again. This is hard work unless you have an efficient beater such as an electric mixer.
    2. The flour and any raising agent used should be sifted together and then cut and folded, see No. 12, into the egg mixture very gently with a metal spoon. The object is to mix in the fliur without losing any air, or more air than can be helped. The mixture should be a thick batter, see No. 726.
    3. If there is any liquid or melted fat to be added it goes in at the end, and should again be folded in carefully.
    4. Turn the mixture into well greased tins that have been dusted with flour.
    5. Because of the large amount of egg they contain, sponges should be baked in a moderate oven, otherwise they become tough. A spins is cooked if the impression made by the finger being lightly pressed on top springs back at once.
    6. Run a knife round the edge of the cake to loosen it, and then turn out gently on a cake-rack, letting it fall out with its own weight.
  1383. How to tell when a cake is cooked

  1384. A LARGE RICH CAKE. Insert a skewer or cocktail stick in the centre, and if it comes out clean, with no uncooked mixture sticking to it, the cake is done. Leave rich fruit cakes in the tin until cold; others are left to cool for a few minutes, and the turned out carefully on a wire cake-rack.

    SMALL CAKES AND SANDWICHES. Press the top lightly with the finger and, if the impression springs back quickly the cake is cooked. It should also show signs of shrinking from the sides of the tin. Leave the cake to cool for a minute or two before turning it out. Turn carefully on to a wire rack and leave to cool. Whether or not a cake turns out easily depends on how carefully you have prepared the tin, see No. 727.

    The following results may be due to incorrect baking: Oven too hot - cracked top, uneven rising, crust too brown. Oven too slow - thick crust, coarse texture, or close heavy cake. Not cooking long enough - heavy cake, sinking in the middle. Cooking too long - thick crust, dry cake. Moving while rising causes sinking in the middle.

  1385. Basic mix for large cakes

  1386. Cooking time 1¼ hours. Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm.) tin.

    4 oz. margarine or other fat (125 g.)8 oz. SR flour (1½ c.)
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)Pinch of salt
    2-3 eggsFlavouring
    Milk to mix, ¼ pt. (&facr12; c.) or less

    Measures level. Mix to a soft cake consistency by the creaming method, No. 732. Bake in a greased and floured tin.

  1387. Cherry cake

  1388. Cooking time 1¼ hours. Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm.) tin.

    Add 2 oz. (18) glacé cherries cut in halves to No. 735. Flavour with vanilla. Alternatively bake the cake for ¾ hour in oblong tin about 9 x 6 inches (22 x 15 cm.). When cold, ice and decorate and cut in squares.

  1389. Plain fruit cake

  1390. Cooking time 1¼ hours. Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm.) tin.

    Add 4 oz. of any dried fruit (⅔ c.), including some peel, to No. 735. Flavour with vanilla or lemon or 1 level tsp. mixed spice.

  1391. Lemon or orange cake

  1392. Cooking time 1¼ hours. Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm.) tin.

    Add the grated rind of 2 lemons or oranges to No. 735. The juice may be used for an icing. Alternatively bake the cake for ¾ hour in oblong tin about 9 x 6 inches (22 x 15 cm.). When cold, ice and decorate and cut in squares.

  1393. Rock cakes

  1394. Cooking time 10-15 minutes. Temperature 450 °F. (230 °C.) Mark 6-7.

    Quantities for 18 cakes.

    Make No. 735 using only one egg. Add 4-6 oz. dried fruit (⅔-1 c.) and ½ level tsp. mixed spice. Add only enough liquid to make a thick cake consistency and bake in small heaps on a greased tray.

  1395. Fruit sponge

  1396. Put 2 lb. (1 kg.) sliced apples or 1-2 lb. (½-1 kg.) of any other fruit in a pie dish. Cover with half basic mix No. 735, flavoured with vanilla or lemon; or use a packet sponge mix. Bake at 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5 for ¾-1 hour or until the fruit and pudding are cooked. Serve with custard sauce, No 105, or lemon sauce, No. 102.
  1397. Basic sandwich or layer cake mix

  1398. Cooking time 10 minutes. Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for two 7-inch (18 cm.) tins.

    4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)2 eggs, beaten
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)4 oz. SR flour (¾ c.)
    Flavouring

    Measures level. Grease the tins and line the bottoms with a circle of paper. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Bake until springy in the centre and beginning to shrink from the sides of the tins. Cool on a rack and join together with jam or a filling and ice as desired.

  1399. Victoria sandwich

  1400. Make the basic mix, No. 741 and leave it plain, or flavour with vanilla. Fill with jam and dust the top with caster or sifted icing sugar.
  1401. Orange or lemon layer cake

  1402. Flavour the baic mix, No. 741 with the finely grated rind of 1 small orange ot lemon. When the cake is cold join with lemon curd, or butter cream, see Nos. 694, 696, and ice as desired. Each cake can be cut in two to give four layers. Chocolate icing goes well with this cake, see No. 675, No. 678 and No. 690.
  1403. Coffee layer cake

  1404. Mix 2-3 tsp. soluble coffee with a little warm water, and add to No. 741 with the creamed fat and sugar. Split the cold cake into 4 layers. Fill with coffee butter cream, No. 696, and ice. Decorate with chopped nuts.
  1405. Queen cakes

  1406. Add 2-4 oz. sultanas (⅓-½ c.) to the basic mix, No. 741, and bake in 12-16 patty tins or small paper cases, for 15-20 minutes.
  1407. Fairy cakes

  1408. Flavour the basic mix, No. 741, to taste and bake as for queen cakes, No. 745. Ice and decorate. The orange and lemon, or coffee mixtures may also be baked as small cakes.
  1409. Upside down cake or pudding

  1410. Cooking time ½-¾ hour.
    Temperature 250-375 °F. (180-190 °C.) Mark 4-5.

    Quantities for a shallow tin approximately 6 in. (15 cm.) by 9 in. (22 cm.) or 8 in. (20cm.) square

    1 oz. butter (25 g.)One-stage recipe No. 748 or basic sandwich mix No. 741, or use a packet sponge mix
    Canned, fresh or glacé fruitsFine light brown sugar
    Flavouring

    Melt the butter in the tin and sprinkle thickly with sugar. Arrange the fruit on the sugar to cover it closely with an attractive design. Spread the cake mixture smoothly over this and bake. Turn out on a large dish. Serve as a pudding, warm with cream, or as a cake.

  1411. Basic one-stage cake mix

  1412. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for two 7-inch (18 cm.) sandwich tins.

    6 oz. SR flour (1½ c.)2 Tbs. milk
    Pinch salt3 oz. soft butter or margarine (75 g.)
    3 eggsFlavourings, see Nos. 742-4
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)

    Measures level. Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix with a wooden spoon, or with a hand mixer on slow speed for 2 minutes or until smooth. Spread evenly in the tins and bake. The mixture may also be used for fairy cakes, No. 745, and upside-down cake, No. 747.

  1413. Madeleines

  1414. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.
    Temperature 400 °F. (200 °C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for 14 cakes.

    4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)4 oz. plain flour (¾ c.)
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)½ tsp. baking powder
    Vanilla essence or rind of 1 lemonApricot jam
    2 eggsDesiccated coconut
    Glacé cherries

    Measures level. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Fill greased dariole moulds tho-thirds full with mixture and bake in a moderate oven. When cold paint with warm jam and roll in coconut to coat thoroughly. Stick a piece of cherry on top with a little jam or melted jelly.

  1415. Six spice cake

  1416. Cooking time 25-30 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for two 8-inch (20 cm.) sanwich tins.

    4 oz. margarine (125 g.)¼ tsp. each of ground ginger, mace and spice
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)½ tsp. grated nutmeg
    2 oz. syrup (2 Tbs)½ tsp. each of ground cloves and cinamon
    8 oz. SR flour (1½ c.)About ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)
    Pinch of salt

    Measures level. Mix to a soft cake consistency by the creaming method, No. 732. Bake in greased and floured tins. When cold, join together with spicy icing. No. 684 and ice the top.

  1417. Chocolate layer cake

  1418. Cooking time 25-30 minutes.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for two 7-inch (18 cm.) sandwich tins.

    2 oz. margarine or fat(50 g.)6 oz. plain flour (1½ c.)
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)1 tsp. baking powder
    2 Tbs. syrup2 Tbs. cocoa
    1 egg¼ tsp. salt
    Vanilla essence1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda
    ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)

    Measures level. Mix according to the creaming method, No. 732, to make a thick batter. The syrup is creamed with the fat and sugar and the soda added last, dissolved in the milk. Bake in two greased and floured 7-inch tins in a moderate oven. When cold sandwich together with lemon curd, No. 694 or butter cream, No. 696. Ice the top with chocolate icing, No. 675 or 678.

  1419. Christmas or birthday cake

  1420. Cooking time 3 hours.
    Temperature 300 °F. (150 °C.) Mark 1.

    Quantities for an 8-9 inch (20-22 cm.) tin.

    8 oz. margarine or butter (250 g.)1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda
    8 oz. brown sugar (1⅓ c.)½ tsp salt
    5 eggs2 tsp. mixed spice
    ½ tsp almond essence2 lb. mixed dried fruit (1 kg.)
    ½ tsp. vanilla essence⅛ pt. brandy, rum, ale or stout (4 Tbs.)
    ¾ lb. plain flour (2½ c.)

    Measures level. Mix according to the creaming method, No. 732, but do not beat a lot. The mixture should not be too light, as there is a great deal of fruit to hold up. Mix to a stiff cake consistency. Put in a tin lined with paper and spread with a slight depression in the middle so that it will rise flat. Leave in the tin to cool.

  1421. Almond fruit cake

  1422. Cooking time 3 hours.
    Temperature 325 °F. (160 °C.) Mark 2.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm.) tin.

    8 oz. butter (250 g.)¾ lb. sultanas (2 c.)
    8 oz. caster sugar (1 c.)3 oz. mixed peel, chopped (½ c.)
    4 eggs1 oz. preserved ginger, chopped (¼ c.)
    8 oz. ground almonds (2 c.)Grated rind 1 orange
    4 oz. plain flour (¾ c.)Pinch of salt

    Measures level. Mix according to the creaming method, No. 732, using the ingredients in the order given in the recipe. Bake in a tin lined with grease-proof paper in a moderate oven for 2 hours. Leave in the tin to cool.

  1423. Dundee cake

  1424. Cooking time 2 hours.
    Temperature 325 °F. (160 °C.) Mark 2.

    Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm.) tin.

    6 oz. butter (175 g.)3 oz. sultanas (½ c.)
    5 oz. caster sugar (¾ c.)1 oz. raisins (2 Tbs.)
    4 eggs2 oz. chopped peel (⅓ c.)
    8 oz. plain flour (1½ c.)4 oz. currants (⅔ c.)
    ½ tsp. baking powder4 oz. almonds blanched and chopped (¾ c.)
    ½ tsp. spice

    Measures level. Mix according to the creaming method, No. 732, keeping half the almonds to sprinkle on top just before baking.

  1425. Gingerbread

  1426. Cooking time ¾ hour.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for a 9-inch (22 cm.) square tin.

    8 oz. plain flour (1½ c.) or use half white and half wholemeal1½ oz. brown sugar (3 Tbs.)
    1 tsp. mixed spice1 egg
    1 Tbs. ground ginger1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda
    Pinch salt¼ pt. milk (½ c.)
    2 oz. sultanas (⅓ c.)4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)
    1 oz. chopped peel or chrystalised ginger (2 Tbs.)8 oz. golden syrup, treacle or honey (8 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Mix according to the melting method, No. 730. Grease the tin and line the bottom with non-stick paper. Pour in the mixture. Bake until it feels springy in the centre. Cool for 10-15 minutes and then turn out on to a rack.

  1427. Butter sponge

  1428. Cooking time 20 minutes.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for two 7-inch (18 cm.) sandwich tins.

    3 eggsPinch of salt
    4 oz. granulated sugar (½ c.)1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)
    4 oz. flour (¾ c.)3 Tbs. hot water

    Measures level. Mix according to the sponge method, No. 733, adding the fat last, melted in the hot water. When cold, join together with jam or butter cream, No. 696 or any sweet filling.

  1429. Genoese sponge

  1430. Cooking time 25-30 minutes.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for a 10 x 8-inch (25 x 20 cm.) tin.

    3 eggs3 oz. plain flour (⅔ c.)
    3 oz. caster sugar (6 Tbs)2 oz. melted butter (50 g.)

    Measures level. Mix by the sponge method, No. 733, beating the eggs and sugar over hot water and adding the butter last. Pour into the greased and floured tin as for any sponge. Turn out carefully and use as a base for any of the recipes, Nos. 758-60 or for refrigerator cakes, Nos. 944-5.

  1431. Fruit band

  1432. Trim off the edges of Genoese sponge, No. 757. Arrange a layer of fresh or bottles fruit on top of the cake leaving ½ inch (1 cm) margin round the edges. Cover the fruit carefully with a thin layer of thickened fruit juice or syrup, using 1 level Tbs of arrowroot to each ½ pt. (1 c.) liquid, as in fruit flan, No. 822. Pipe whipped cream round the edges. For serving, cut in slices.
  1433. Assorted iced cakes

  1434. Cut Genoese sponge, No. 757, into small fancy shapes using pastry cutters. Cover with glacé icing as described in No. 674. Decorate by piping with butter icing, No. 677 or rolling in coconut or chopped nuts.
  1435. Truffles

  1436. Use the trimmings from the Genoese sponge, No. 757. Rub through a sieve or put in a blender to make fine cake crumbs. Bind to a firm consistency with sieved apricot or raspberry jam., flavoured with rum. Roll in the sieved jam and then in cocoa or chocolate vermicelli.
  1437. Sponge or Swiss roll

  1438. Cooking time 7-10 minutes.
    Temperature 400 °F. (200 °C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for a 12 x 8-inch (30 x 20 cm.) tin.

    2 eggs1 tsp. baking powder
    3 oz. granulated sugar (6 Tbs)Pinch of salt
    3 oz. plain flour (⅔ c.)Warm jam

    Measures level. Grease the tin and line the bottom. Mix by the sponge method, No. 733, and spread evenly in the prepared tin. Bake in a moderately hot oven, taking care not to over cook it, or the sponge will crack when you try to roll it. Have ready a piece of greaseproof paper sprinkled with sugar and placed on top of a damp cloth. Turn the sponge onto it and cut off the edges quickly. Spread with warm jam. Roll by taking the edge of the paper at one end between the thumb and finger and turn the edge of the sponge over. Then pull the paper firmly away from the body and the sponge should roll up under it. A firm, light pressure is needed to make it roll neatly.

  1439. Butterfly cakes

  1440. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 24 cakes.

    Make sponge, No. 756 or 761, and bake in small greased patty tins in a moderately hot oven. Cool and cut a circle out of the top of each. Fill with a little jam and whipped, or butter cream, cut each top slice in half and replace in the cream to look like wings. Dust with icing sugar.

  1441. Meringues (method 1)

  1442. Cooking time 2 hours or more.
    Temperature 250-275 °F. (120-140 °C.) Mark ¼-½.

    Quantities for 18 meringues.

    2 egg whitesVanilla essence
    4 oz. caster sugar or granulated sugar (½ c.) or use half and half

    Measures level. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and look dry and rocky. Add half the sugar and beat again until the mixture is very stiff and will stand up in peaks. Fold in the rest of the sugar and flavouring. Force from a tube or put spoonfuls on a greased tray and bake in a slow oven until quite dry. Serve separately or join in pairs with cream.

  1443. Meringues (method 2)

  1444. Cooking time 1 hour or more.
    Temperature 250-275 °F. (120-140 °C.) Mark ¼-½.

    Quantities for 18 meringues.

    1 egg white6 oz. granulated sugar (¾ c.)
    3 Tbs hot water

    Measures level. Put all the ingredients in a basin and beat over a pan of boiling water until the mixture is thick and will keep its shape. Put in small spoonfuls on a greased tray and bake in a slow oven.

  1445. Meringues for puddings and pies

  1446. Make according to No. 763, using 3-4 oz. (6-8 Tbs.) granulated sugar. Pile on the pudding or pie and bake in a moderately slow oven 250°F (180°C) mark 4 for about 15-20 minutes, until lightly browned.
  1447. Pavlova cake

  1448. (to use as a cake or cold sweet)

    Cooking time 1 - 1½ hours.
    Temperature 250 °F. (120 °C.) Mark ¼.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm.) tin.

    3 egg whites1 tsp. vinegar
    Pinch of salt½ tsp. vanilla
    6 oz. caster sugar (¾ c.)fresh or bottled fruit
    1 tsp. cornflourcream

    Measures level. Line the tin with non-stick paper. Beat the egg whites and salt until stiff. Beat in half the sugar. Mix the cornflour with the rest and fold in gently. Add the essence and vinegar and mix. Spread in the tin and bake slowly until firm on the outside bit still soft inside. Turn upside-down on a large dish and leave to cool. It will shrink a little during cooling. Arrange the fruit on top (cake still upside-down) and serve with cream in a jug or decorate with whipped cream.

  1449. Cornflake meringues

  1450. Cooking time 45 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 3.

    Quantities for 16 meringues.

    2 egg whites1 doz. glacé cherries, chopped
    Pinch of salt2 oz. cornflakes (2 c.)
    2½ oz. chopped walnuts (½ c.)4 oz. sugar (½ c.)

    Measures level. Beat the egg whites and salt until stiff. Fold in the other ingredients and place in spoonfuls on well-greased trays. Bake until pale brown and firm, but be careful not to brown them too much, or the flavour will be spoiled.

  1451. Lemon meringue nests

  1452. Cooking time 1 hour.
    Temperature 275 °F. (140 °C.) Mark 1.

    Quantities for 6-8 nests.

    Make meringue mixture, No. 763. Put in rounds on non-stick paper on a greased baking-tray or on rice paper. Hollow out the centres and rough up the sides with a fork to make nests. Bake until firm. Place on a large dish, or individual plates. Fill the centres with lemon curd, No. 694 and serve with pureé of strawberries, or Chocolate sauce, No. 99.

    Steamed puddings

  1453. How to steam a pudding

    1. Grease the basin and leave it big enough to be only three-quarters full.
    2. The best cover for the top is greased-paper or aluminium foil. The wrapping-papers from margarine are suitable for small basins. The paper should be a little larger than the top of the basin, and can be made to stay on without tying by twisting the over-hanging paper under the rim of the basin.
    3. The puddingt may be then either cooked in the top half of a steamer, in which case it is essential to keep plenty of boiling water below to provide steam; or it may be cooked in a saucepan with water coming half-way up the sides of the basin and kept boiling gently. If you do need to add water during cooking, be sure to have it boiling, but this should not be required for a pudding taking about 2 hours.
    4. If you are in ahurry, a pudding mixture can be cooked in small individual moulds, when the cooking time will be half thatb required for the large basin. Puddings cooked this way look very attractive for serving on special occasions.
    5. To turn a pudding out of the basin run a knife round the edge. Put the warm serving-plate over the top and quickly turn the basin over. Lift it up and the pudding should be on the plate.
  1454. Steamed jam or marmalade pudding

  1455. Cooking time 1½-2 hours.

    Quantities for 3-4 helpings.

    2 oz. margarine ot other fat (50 g.)About ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)
    2 oz. sugar (¼ c.)Lemon essence or grated rind
    1 egg3-4 Tbs. jam or marmalade
    4 oz. SR flour (¾ c.)Pinch of salt

    Measures level. Mix to a soft cake consistenccy by the creaming method, No. 732, or the rubbing method, No. 731. Put the jam or marmalade at the bottom of a greased pudding basin, add the mixture, cover and steam as in No. 769. Serve with custard sauce, No. 105, or lemon sauce, No. 102.

  1456. Steamed chocolate pudding

  1457. Use recipe No. 770, omitting the jam and adding a level Tbs. cocoa with the flour. Flavour with vanilla essence. Steam for 1½-2 hours as in No. 769 and serve with chocolate sauce, No. 99.
  1458. Steamed fruit pudding

  1459. Use recipe No. 770, omitting the jam and adding 2 oz. (½ c.) of any dried fruit, chopped and ½ level tsp. mixed spice. Steam for 1½-2 hours according to No. 769, and serve with custard sauce, No. 105, or cinnamon sauce, No. 98 or lemon sauce, No. 102.
  1460. Steamed ginger pudding

  1461. Use recipe No. 770, omitting the jam and 1 oz. (2 Tbs) sugar. Add 1 level tsp. ground ginger to the flour and 1 level Tbs. syrup to the milk. Steam according to No. 769 for 1½-2 hours and serve with golden syrup sauce, No. 107.
  1462. Carrot plum pudding

  1463. Cooking time 3-4 hours.

    Quantities for 4 helpings.

    1 c. raw grated carrot1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda
    1 c. raw grated potato1 tsp. salt
    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)1 tsp. nutmeg
    4 oz. plain flour (¾ c.)1 tsp. cinnamon
    ¾ lb. mixed dried fruit (2 c.)3 oz. melted fat (6 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Mix all the igredients together with the melted fat. Steam according to No. 769 in a 2 pt. (1 l.) basin for 3-4 hours. Serve with lemon sauce, No. 102.

  1464. Christmas pudding

  1465. Quantities for 1½-2 pt. ( 1 l.) basin.

    2 oz. plain flour (½ c,)1 lb. mixed dried fruit (some peel) (500 g.)
    ½ tsp. grated nutmeg2 oz. breadcrumbs (1 c.)
    ¼ tsp. cinnamon2 eggs
    1 tsp. mixed spice2-4 Tbs. brandy or other spirit
    ¼ tsp. salt4 oz. suet (¾ c.)
    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)

    Measures level. Sift the dry ingredients together and add all the other ingredients, mixing thoroughly to a fairly soft mixture. Steam 4 hours the first time and then 2-3 hours before using. To srore put a fresh piece of paper on top and cover with a cloth. Store in a cool, dry place.

    Steamed suet puddings.

    See Nos. 801-805.

    Biscuits

  1466. General information

  1467. Biscuits may be mixed by any of the cake methods, Nos. 729-32. The consistency required depends on the way the biscuits are to be shaped. If they are to be rolled out and stamped in shapes, the dough should be very stiff. Some biscuit recipes, especially is mixed by the creaming method, are a little too soft for rolling. Rather than knead in extra flour put the mixture in a very cold place for a while to harden up.

    A mixture which is to be put through a biscuit forcer should be fairly soft, or the forcing will be difficult and the biscuits will break up as they come out of the tube.

    A quick and easy method of shaping is to roll small portions of the dough between the palms of the hand, floured well. Then press flat. If this is done with the bottom of a cut-glass tumbler the biscuits will have pretty patterns on top.

    Biscuits should be made all the same size and thickness, or they will bake unevenly. They should be cooked slowly to make them crisp. Most are baked until they turn pale brown, but not necessarily until crisp. The richer mixtures always harden during cooling, and may be left to cool on the trays. Then lift off on to a wire cake-rack, using a fish-slice or palette knife, and leave until quite cold before storing in airtight tins.

  1468. Almond biscuits

  1469. Cooking time 20-25 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 24 biscuits.

    4 oz. margarine (125 g.)6 oz. plain flour (1¼ c.)
    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)¼ tsp. salt
    ½ egg1 tsp baking powder
    ½ tsp. almond essence12 blanched almonds

    Measures level. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Flour the hands and roll the mixture in small balls. Press half an almond on each and bake in a moderate oven until pale brown and crisp.

  1470. Chocolate biscuits

  1471. Cooking time 20-25 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 24 biscuits.

    4 oz. margarine (125 g.)¼ tsp. salt
    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)1 tsp. baking powder
    ½ egg2 Tbs. cocoa
    ½ tsp. vanilla¼ tsp. bicarbonate of soda
    8 oz. plain flour (1½ c.)

    Measures level. These are improved by using a special soft flour, see No. 721. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Force into fingers and bake in a moderate oven until crisp. When cold join together in pairs with vanilla-flavoured butter icing, No. 677.

    N.B. If this mixture is left to stand in a cold place until firm it may be rolled and cut in the usual way.

  1472. Gingernuts

  1473. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 18 biscuits.

    2 oz. dripping or cooking fat (50 g.)2 tsp. ground ginger
    2 oz. syrup (2 Tbs.)½ tsp. cinnamon
    4 oz. SR flour (¾ c.)½ tsp. mixed spice
    ¼ tsp. salt½ tsp. bicarbonate of soda

    Measures level. Mix by the melting method, No. 730, to make a stiff consistency. Roll in small bolls, and leave room on the tray for spreading a little. bake in a moderate overn until brown. They will be slightly soft but become crisp on cooling.

  1474. Honey-nut cookies

  1475. Cooking time 20 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 24 biscuits.

    1 oz. chocolate (35 g.)4 oz. sugar (½ c.)
    2 oz. margarine (50 g.)4 oz. plain flour (¾ c.)
    2 eggs, beaten well2 oz. chopped nuts (½ c.)
    4 oz. honey (4 Tbs.)½ tsp. vanilla essence

    Measures level. Melt the chocolate and margaine together. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well. Drop in small spoonfuls on a greased tray and bake in a moderately slow oven. These cookies are still soft when they come out of the oven, but will become crisp on cooling.

  1476. Lemon finger biscuits

  1477. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 48 biscuits.

    4 oz. margarine (125 g.)1 tsp. baking powder
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)¼ tsp. salt
    1 eggGrated rind of 1 lemon
    8 oz. plain flour (1½ c.)

    Measures level. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Force into fingers through a biscuit forcer, or leave to stand for a little and roll out thinly and cut into fingers. Bake in a moderate overn until a very pale gold and crisp. The flavour is spoilt if they are allowed to brown.

  1478. Nutties

  1479. Cooking time ½-¾ hour.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for a tin 10 x 6 (25 x 15 cm.) inches.

    4 oz. margarine (125 g.)½ tsp. salt
    1 Tbs. syrup½ tsp. vanilla
    4 oz. brown sugar (¾ c.)2 oz. chopped walnuts (½ c.)
    7 oz. rolled oats ( 2 c.)

    Measures level. Mix by the melting method, No. 730. Spread in a flat baking tin and cook in a moderately slow oven. Leave until cool in the tin and cut into fingers when almost cold.

  1480. Anzac nutties

  1481. Cooking time about 20 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 24 nutties.

    4 oz. granulated sugar (½ c.)1 oz. chopped nuts (frac14; c.)
    2 oz. whole-meal flour (½ c.)2 oz. dessicated coconut (½ c.)
    2 oz. plain white flour (½ c.)1 Tbs golden syrup
    Pinch of salt½ tsp. bicarbonate of soda
    1 Tbs. hot water

    Measures level. Mix sugar, flours, salt, nuts and coconut in a basin. Melt the syrup and butter together, but do not boil. Dissolve the soda in the hot water and mix all the ingredients together. Roll into balls or put in small rounds, with room to spread, on a greased tray. Bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. They will become crisp on cooling, and it is advisable to cool them on the trays.

  1482. Shortbread

  1483. Cooking time ¾ hour.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for two 6-inch (15 cm.) rounds.

    4 oz. butter (125 g.)8 oz. plain flour (1½ c.)
    2 oz. caster sugar (¼ c.)Pinch of salt

    Measures level. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Press into rounds. Prick well, bake until golden brown, and cut in pieces while warm. Or roll out ¼ inch (½ cm.) thick, cut into biscuits and bake about 25-30 minutes.

  1484. Langues de chat

  1485. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 2 dozen biscuits.

    4 oz. margarine (125 g.)Vanilla essence
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)3 egg whites
    4 oz. plain flour (¾ c.)Pinch of salt
    1 oz. cornflour (3 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Cream the margarine and sugar until very thick and light. Add the essence and fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Sift the flour, cornflour and salt together and stir into the creamed mixture. Pipe on to well-greased trays in small finger-shapes using a ⅜-½ inch (1 cm.) plain forcing tube. Bake in a l=slow oven, wathcing them well, as they burn easily. They should be only slightly coloured when cooked.

  1486. Almond macaroons

  1487. Cooking time 30-40 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 18 macaroons.

    2 egg whites8 oz. caster sugar (1 c.)
    Pinch of salt1 Tbs. ground rice or semolina
    6 oz. ground almonds (1¼ c.)18 blanched almonds

    Measures level. Beat the egg whites and salt until soft. Fold in the almonds, sugar and rice-flour. Put in rounds on rice paper or heavily greased baking-trays. Place an almond on each. Bake in a slow oven. The easiest way of shaping the macaroons is to roll the mixture in balls in the palms of the hands and then flatten with a knife.

  1488. Chocolate crispies

  1489. Cooking time 10 minutes.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 2 dozen cakes.

    6 oz. plain chocolate (175 g.)3½ c. cornflakes
    ½ pt. sweetened condensed milk

    Measures level. Melt the chocolate over hot water. Add the milk and cook for 5 minutes or until the mixture thickens. Cool and add the cornflakes, mixing thoroughly. Place in spoonfuls on a greased baking tray and bake for 10 minutes.

  1490. Afghans

  1491. Cooking time 20 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 2 dozen cakes.

    Chocolate icing, No. 675
    7 oz. melted butter or margarine (200g.)1 oz. cocoa (3 Tbs.)
    6 oz. plain flour (1½ c.)¼ tsp. salt.
    3 oz. sugar (6 Tbs.)Vanilla essence
    2 oz. cornflakes (2 c.)1 doz. shelled walnuts

    Measures level. Mix all the igredients together and put in small spoonfuls on an ungreased tray. Bake until firm. When cold drop a blob of icing on top of each and press on half a walnut.

  1492. Date bars

  1493. Cooking time ½ hour.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 16 fingers.

    ⅔ c. sweetened condensed milk3 oz. stoned, chopped dates (3 Tbs.)
    2 oz. plain flour (½ c.)¼ c. minced nuts
    ½ tsp. baking powderVanilla essence
    2 oz. cornflakes (2 c.)Pinch of salt

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together ans spread in a greased tin about 9 x 6 inches (22 x 15 cm.). Cut into fingers while still hot.

  1494. Coconut macaroons

  1495. Cooking time 25-30 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 18 macaroons.

    3 egg whitesVanilla essence
    Pinch of salt8 oz. dessicated coconut (2 c.)
    2 tsp. flour8 oz. sugar (1 c.)

    Measures level. Beat the egg whites and salt until stiff. Add the flour and sugar and warm in a saucepan until well blended. Add vanilla to taste and the coconut. Put in small heaps on greased trays and bake until brown.

  1496. Melting moments or Viennese pastry

  1497. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.
    Temperature 350 °F. (180 °C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 12 completed cakes.

    4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)1 oz. icing sugar (¼ c.)
    2 oz. cornflour (6 Tbs.)2 oz. plain flour (6 Tbs.)
    1 tsp. baking powderVanilla essence
    Butter icing, No. 677

    Measures level. Mix by the creaming method, No. 732. Put in a forcing bag and force into 24 small rosettes on a baking tray. Bake until very pale brown. Cool and join in pairs with a little butter icing.

    Scones and Tea Breads

  1498. Plain scones or tea bread

    Cooking time 10-12 minutes.
    Temperature 450-475 °F. (230-250 °C.) Mark 7-8.

    8 oz. SR flour (1½ c.)About ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)
    1 tsp. salt1-2 oz. margarine (25-50 g.)

    Measures level.

    1. Sift the flour and salt together.
    2. Rub the fat into the flour, using the tips of the fingers and rub until it is well mixed. For sweet scones add 1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.).
    3. Add the liquid quickly, putting most of it in at once. Use a knife for mixing, and toss the mixture lightly. Sour milk or cream may be used for mixing in place of fresh milk. Add enough to make a soft dough, No. 726.
    4. Do not knead, but pat the mixture, or roll lightly on a floured board to about ½ inch (1 cm.) thick. Very thick scones are not nearly so nice to eat as thinner, crusty ones.
    5. The mixture may be shaped in a round and then cut in triangles, or may be cut in rounds with a plain biscuit cutter. To obtain a smooth brown top bruch over with a little milk or beaten egg.
    6. Bake in a hot oven for 10-12 minutes, depending on the size. Alternatively, the mixture may be baked in a greased loaf-pan, cut in slices, and used in place of bread. Bake at 425° F (220° C.) Mark 7, for ½-⅔ hour.

    N.B All scones are nicer if eaten while still warm.
  1499. Cheese scones

  1500. Make according to No. 792, adding 1 oz. grated cheese (50 g.) after the fat has been rubbed in.
  1501. Date scones

  1502. Make according to No. 792, and roll the dough to ¼ inch (6 mm.) thick. Spread one half with 3-4 oz. chopped dates (½ c.). Fold over the other half and cut into 8 or 10 squares.
  1503. Fruit scones

  1504. Add 1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.) to No. 792 and 1-2 oz. dried fruit (2-4 Tbs.) after the fat has been rubbed in.
  1505. Fruit rolls

  1506. Make according to No. 792, and roll out to a rectangle about ¼ inch (6 mm.) thick. Cream 1½ oz. margarine (3 Tbs.) with a few drops of lemon essence and spread over the dough. Sprinkle with 2 oz. dried fruit (⅓ c.), ½ tsp. cinnamon and 1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) sugar. Brush the edges with a little water and roll the dough up tightly with floured hands. Cut into slices ¾ inch (2 cm.) thick and place cut-side up on a greased backing-tin. Bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes 450° F (230° C) Mark 8.
  1507. Girdle scones

  1508. Make as No. 792, and roll out ¼ inch (½ cm) thick. Cut in triangles and place on a fairly hot girdle. Bake steadily until risen and light brown underneath. Turn and bake on the other side until cooked in the centre, about 10-15 minutes in all.
  1509. American doughnuts

  1510. Quantities for 18-24 doughnuts

    8 oz. SR flour (1½ c.)1 egg
    ½ tsp. salt1 oz. margarine (25 g)
    ¼ tsp. grated nutmeg or mace2 oz. sugar (¼ c.)
    Milk to mix, about 2-3 Tbs.

    Measures level. Mix by the scone method, No. 792, but make the dough a little stiffer, as the doughnuts crack if too soft. Roll out to ⅓-½ inch (1 cm) thick and cut in rounds, taking out the centres with a small cutter, to give a ring. Fry in deep fat, see No. 149, for 5-8 minutes, turning once to brown evenly. Serve with syrup sauce, No. 107.

  1511. Date and nut loaf

  1512. Cooking time 1 hour.
    Temperature 375 °F. (190 °C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 1 lb. (½ kg.) loaf.

    6 oz. chopped dates (1 c.)½ tsp. salt
    ½ tsp. bicarbonate of soda4 oz. SR flour (¾ c,)
    ¼ pt. boiling water (½ c.)2 oz. chopped walnuts (¼ c.)
    1 egg2 oz. brown sugar (¼ c.)

    Measures level. Put dates and soda in a basin and pour over the hot water. Allow to cool. Mix dry ingredients together with the beaten egg and date mixture, with additional water to make a soft consistency. Bake in a greased tin tunil firm in the middle. Keep at least a day before cutting in thin slices and spreading with butter or margarine.

  1513. Sultana and nut loaf

  1514. Cooking time 45 minutes.
    Temperature 400 °F. (200 °C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for 1 lb. (½ kg.) loaf.

    4 oz. plain flour (¾ c.)2 oz. chopped walnuts (½ c.)
    4 oz. SR flour (¾ c.)2 oz. sultanas (⅓ c.)
    ½ tsp. salt1 egg
    3 oz. fine brown sugar (½ c.)About ¼ pt. milk (½ c.)

    Measures level. Sift the flours and salt into a bowl and add the sugar, nuts and fruit. Beat the egg and add it with enough milk to make a stiff cake consistency (see No. 726). Turn into the tin and spread the top level. Bake until firm in the centre. Turn out on a rack. When cold store in a polythene bag and leave 24 hours before cutting.

    Pastry

  1515. Suet pastry

    Suet pastry is used for steamed puddings, savoury puddings such as steak-and-kidney, roly-poly pudding, and dumplings.

    1. Allow 3 oz. suet (½ c.) to 8 oz. flour (1½ c.). Use packet suet or see No. 141.
    2. Sift the flour with 1 level tsp. salt and two level tsp. baking powder for each 8 oz. (1½ c.) plain flour, or use self-raising flour.
    3. Add the suet and mix well. Then mix in enough water to make a soft dough, using a knife for mixing and adding the water as quickly as possible.
  1516. To line a basin with suet pastry

    1. Cut off a quarter of the pastry and keep it for the lid.
    2. Roll the rest into a circle ¼-½ inch (1 cm.) thick and lift it gently into the basin. Press to fit the side and bottom and have a little overhanging the top. 8 oz. (1½ c.) flour makes enough to line a 1½-2 pt. basin (1 l.)
    3. Roll the small piece into a circle the size of the top of the basin. Put in the filling which should come to the top.
    4. Damp the edges of the pastry and put on the lid. Press the edges together to make a tight seal.
    5. Cover with greased paper or aluminium foil and steam in the usual way, see No. 769. Puddings of this kind generally take at least 2 hours, and 3-4 hours for a meat pudding. They may be turned out of the basin, but are often served in it with the basin wrapped in a cloth, or use a heat-resisting glass basin. They may also be cooked in small individual moulds, when the cooking time will be about half that for a large one.
  1517. Fruit pudding

  1518. (suitable for apples, plums, damsons, blackberries, rhubarb, elderberries )

    Quantities for 4 helpings.

    Suet pastry, No. 801 using 8 oz. flour (1½ c.)1-2 lb. fruit (½- 1 kg.)
    3-4 oz. sugar (6-8 Tbs.)

    Prepare the pastry and line the basin as in No. 802. Steam for 2 hours. Serve with custard or cream.

  1519. Steak-and-kidney pudding

  1520. Quantities for 4 helpings.

    Suet pastry, No. 801 using 8 oz. flour (1½ c.)Pinch of pepper
    1 lb. stewing steak (500 g.)2 sheep's kidneys, or ½ lb. ox kidney (250 g.)
    3 Tbs. flour2 onions, sliced
    1 tsp. saltWater or stock

    Measures level. Cut the meat in cubes and roll it in the flour, salt and pepper mixed. Cut the kidneys in small pieces. Line the basin as in No. 802, and put the meat, kidney and onion in layers. Add water or stock to come half-way up the meat. Cover with the pastry and steam for 2½-3 hours. Long cooking improves the pudding and even 4 hours may be given.

  1521. Jam or marmalade layer pudding

  1522. Quantities for 4 helpings.

    Suet pastry, No. 801 using 8 oz. flour (1½ c.)Cream or custard
    8 oz. jam or marmalade (250 g.)

    Measures level. Grease a 1-pint (½ l.) basin. Divide the pastry into four pieces. Roll one to fit the bottom of the basin and spread with some of the jam. Roll the other pieces, spreading each with jam and finishing with a lid of pastry. Vover the basin with foil and steam for 2 hours. Serve with cream or custard.

  1523. Dumplings

  1524. Shape half the suet pudding mixture, No. 801 into small balls and drop into boiling stock or water. Put the lid on the pan and boil for 15-20 minutes. The lid should not be lifted during the cooking of the dumplings will be heavy.
  1525. Short pastry

    1. 4 oz. fat (125 g.) to 8 oz. flour (1½ c.) makes the best short pastry; plain flour should be used. Self-raising flour makes a light, soft crust, especially when less fast is used, but it will not give a crisp short crust.
    2. Weight or measure the ingredients carefully and sift the flour and salt together, allowing ½-1 tsp. salt to 8 oz. flour (1½ c.)
    3. Lard or good cooking fat makes the shortest pastry. Butter gives the best flavour. A mixture of half lard or cooking fat and butter or margarine is the best for general purposes. Cut the fat in small pieces and rub into the flour, using the tips of the fingers only. Rub until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs. Most electric mixing machines can be used for rubbing or cutting fat into flour. Very soft cooking fats and margarines do not need to be rubbed in and can be added to the flour and mixed in with water.
    4. Use a knife for mixing and mix to a stiff dough with cold water (2-3 Tbs.). Too much water and too soft a pastry means that it will be tough and hard when baked. Do not knead the pastry, as this will make it tough.
    5. Flour the pastry board very lightly and roll the pastry with light, quick rolls. When scraps of pastry have to be re-rolled pile them one on top of the other and roll lightly.
    6. It is always good to plan to leave the pastry to stand in a cool place for &frac24;-½ hour before baking, as this helps to reduce any toughness due to over-handling. Standing before baking also helps to reduce the shrinkage, which sometimes spoils the shape of a tart or pie.
    7. Bake in a hot oven; a low temperature makes the pastry hard. Temperaure 400° F (200° C) Mark 6.
  1526. Quickly made flaky pastry

    1. The same sort of fat is suitable as for short pastry, but allow 6 oz. fat (175 g.) to 8 oz.flour (1½ c.), and plain flour must be used. It is important to keep everything as cold as possible, and not to handle the pastry more than is absolutely necessary.
    2. Sift the flour with 1 tsp. salt to each 8 oz. (1½ c.) flour, using two knives like scissor blades in the basin. Cut until the fat is in pieces the size of a pea.
    3. Use a knife and mix with cold water to a stiff dough.
    4. Roll to an oblong about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and keep the side and ends as straight as possible.
    5. Fold the pastry by berining the sides to the middle, then the top and borrom edges to the middle, folt in half and press the edges together with a rolling-pin.
    6. thurn the pastry so that the unbroken edges are on your right-hand side. Roll out and use as required. It improves the pastry to put it in a cold place to 'rest' between rollings and again before bakiing. Rest for 15-20 minutes.
    7. This pastry needs a hotter oven then short pastry, but not too hot. Slow cooking prevents rising and lets the fat run out, while having the oven too hot also prevents rising. Temperature 425-450° F. (220-230° C.) Mark 7-8.
  1527. Rough puff pastry

    This is used chiefly for vol-au-vent, patties, jam puffs and other sweet pastry. It should consist of many fin layers of pastry, which rise very high when baked. To achieve this, the pastry needs many rollings and foldings, but it is not difficult to make if you have a really cold place to put it between rollings.
    1. Allow 8 oz. margarine or butter (250 g) to 8 oz. plain flour (1½ c) and ½ level tsp. salt. The fat should be cold and firm.
    2. Sift the flour and salt into a basin and cut the fat in ½-inch (1 cm) cubes. Add the flour.
    3. Mix to a stiff dough with cold water to which a squeze of lemon juice has been added.
    4. Flour the pastry board and roll the dough to an oblong about ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Brush off any loose flour and fold one third of the pastry on top and another third underneath, so that the ends come on opposite sides. The edges should not be folded to the centre, as this breaks up the layers. Give the pastry a half turn, roll again and fold as before. Put in a cold place for 20 minutes to rest. Then roll and fold a further four times with two more rests, always brushing off loose flour before folding.
    5. Roll and cut, allowing another rest before baking. For good patties and vol-au-vent use only the best cuttings and the trimmings for custard slices, tarts and other sweet pastries.
  1528. To shape patties or jam puffs

  1529. (using frozen or fresh puff pastry)

    If the pastry is lifting up off the board after rolling and before cutting it helps to retain a better shape, as the lifting allows air to get underneath and relaxe any stretching the pastry has had.

    Roll the pastry ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick and cut it in rounds with a 3-inch (8 cm) cutter. Remove the centres from half of these with a 1½ inch (4 cm) cutter. It is advisable to turn the pastry upside down after cutting, as this makes it rise a better shape. Moisten the plain halves and place the rings evenly on top. Place on a moistened baking tray. Prick the centres and allow to rest in a cold place for 20 minutes. Bake in a hot oven, 450-475° F. (230-250° C.) Mark 8-9. Too slow an oven prevents rising and allows the fat to run out, while too hot an oven causes the tarts to brown before they have risen.

    A vol-au-vent is a large patty and in general filled with a savoury filling of cookedm chicken or shell-fish mixed with a well-flavoured sauce, see No. 294 and No. 300.

    Before filling patties, remove any doughy pastry from the centre.

  1530. Sweet pastry or biscuit crust

  1531. Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for two 8-inch (20 cm) tarts.

    3 oz. margarine (75 g)8 oz. SR flour (1½ c.)
    2 oz. caster sugar (¼ c.)Pinch of salt
    1 egg

    Measures level. Mix by the rubbing method, No. 731. Knead to a loose flour. If possible avoid adding water. Bake in a cooler oven than for other pastry, as the sugar make it inclied to catch.

  1532. Making a flan

    Special metal rings are sold for making flans, or you can use a sandwich tin. The advantage of the ring is that it can be more easily removed from the flan after cooking. Either short or sweet pastry is generally used for flans. 4 oz. flour (¾ c.) makes enough for an 8-inch (20-cm) flan.

    1. Roll the pastry into a circle ⅛-¼ inch (3-6 mm) thick and about 2 inshes (5 cm) bigger than the ring.
    2. Place the flan-ring on a baking-tray and ease the pastry into it without stretching. Press it down well to fit the bottom and sides.
    3. Roll over the top with the rolling pin to cut off surplus pastry. The edges may be left plain or fluted with a knife or fork.
    4. If the flan is to be baked without filling (i.e. 'blind'), line the bottom with a piece of foil, removing it before adding the filling. Bake in a hot oven 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6, for 15-20 minutes for an empty shell, 30-40 minutes for a filled shell.
    5. Lift off the baking-tray and remove the ring.
  1533. Making an open tart

    These are used in the same way as flan-cases, but the tart is generally served in the dish, which should be suitable for sending to the table. Heat-resisting glass is useful for this purpose.

    1. Roll the pastry to ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick and 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) wider than the plate. Fold it in half to lift it into the plate without stretching. Open out and press to fit the plate.
    2. Trim the edges with a sharp knife, leaving 1½ inches (4 cm) of pastry hanging over.
    3. Fold the overhanging piece underneath to make a double edge level with the edge of the plate. Then bend the double edhe upright. Pinch into flutes by using the first finger of one hand to make the dents and the thumb and first finger of the other hand to pinch the dents to a point.
    4. Bake as for flan, No. 812.
  1534. Making a lattice top

    This used for decorating an open tart baked with the filling in.

    1. Line the plate as in No. 813, but trim the patry level with the edge of the plate. Then put in the filling.
    2. Cut strips of pastry the width of the plate and ¼-½ inch (½-1 cm) wide,. Brush the edge of the tart with water and lay strips over the filling in criss-cross fashion, pressing the ends well into the pastry edge. The strips may be twisted into a spiral first.
    3. Cut a strip of pastry ¼ inch (6 mm) wide and long enough to go right round the edge of the plate. Brush the edge and press the strip over the lattice ends. Press the edges together witha fork. Bake as for No. 812.
  1535. Continental flan

    This is made with flaky pastry, No. 808, or puff pastry, No. 809, and is filled after baking. It is similar to a large vol-au-vent, see No.810.

    1. Roll the pastry to about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and cut it into a large circle, with a big plate as a guide.
    2. Then cut another circle the same size but cut out the centre with a second plate, 1-1½ inches (2-3 cm) smaller, as a guide.
    3. Turn the circle upside down and put it on a baking tray. Damp the edges and press the ring on carefully and evenly. Prick the bottom well to prevent rising, and brusch the edge with beaten egg. As with all rich pastry, it is advisable to let the flan stand before baking. Bake in a very hot oven 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for about 20 minutes. Cool and then place on a serving dish and add the filling.
  1536. Uncooked biscuit flan

  1537. Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm) flan.

    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g)4 oz. crushed digestive or ginger biscuits (125 g)
    ½ Tbs. honey or syrup

    Measures level. Heat the fat and honey together until just melted. Add the crushed biscuits (the quickest way of crushing is in the blender). When using digestive biscuits a little cinnamon add to the flavour. When thoroughly blended, press the mixture into a flan ring placed on a serving plate, or into a pie plate. Leave in a cold place until set.

    Suitable filling are fruit flan, No. 822; butterscotch tart, No. 819; chiffon pie filling, No. 818; or fill the case with fresh strawberries or raspberries mixed with whipped cream or cream Chantilly, No. 163.

  1538. Uncooked cornflake flan

  1539. Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm) flan.

    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g)2 tsp. sugar
    1 Tbs. syrup1½ oz. cornflakes (1½ c.) or ½ c. cornflake crumbs

    Measures level. Crush the cornflake or put them in the blender. Mix the butter or margarine, syrup and suga5r, and stir in the crumbs, combining thoroughly. Press the mixture into a pie plate and leave in a cool place to set. Fill in the same way as the uncooked biscuit flan, No. 816.

  1540. Chiffon pie filling

  1541. Quantities for a 7-inch (18 cm) uncooked flan, Nos. 816-17

    ½ Tbs. gelatine4 oz. sugar (½ c.)
    2 Tbs. cold water2 eggs
    ¼ c. lemon juiceWhipped cream (optional)
    ½ tsp. grated lemon rind

    Measures level. Mix the gelatine and cold water together and put in a small pan with the lemon juice, rind, half the sugar and the egg yolks. Sir and cook over a gentle heat until it thickens. Beat the egg whites until stiff and beat in the rest of the sugar. Fold in the lemon mixture and pile in the flan case. Leave to set, and store in the refrigerator. Serve the whipped cream as a garnish, or hand separately.

  1542. Butterscotch tart

  1543. Cooking time 20-30 minutes.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm) tart

    Short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or No. 808, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c,)4 oz. brown sugar (¾ c.)
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)½ pt. hot milk
    2½ Tbs. cornflourPinch of salt
    ½ tsp. vanilla

    Measures level. Make the pastry case as described in No. 812 or No. 813, and bake without any filling. Heat the fat and sugar and when the sugar is melted add it to the hot milk and stir until it dissolves. Mix the cornflour and salt to a paste with a little cold milk. Add the hot milk mixture, return to the pan, and stir until it boils. Cook for 5 minutes and add the vanilla. Pour into the cooked pastry-case and serve hot or cold. This may be made into butterscoth meringue tart by adding the yolks of one or two eggs to the filling and making meringue, No. 765, with the whites. Pile on top of the filling and bake.

  1544. Custard tart

  1545. Cooking time 40-45 minutes.
    Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm) tart

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)½ pt. hot milk
    2 eggsVanilla
    1 Tbs. sugarGrated nutmeg

    Measures level. Line the flan ring or pie plate with the pastry. Prick the bottom and line with foil. Mix egg and sugar and add milk and vanilla. Pour into the pastry case and sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake until the custard is set, about 20-26 minutes. Serve hot or cold. The mixture can also be used for small tarts, adding the filling to raw pastry cases. Bake about 20 minutes.

  1546. Lemon merigue pie

  1547. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm) tart

    Short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or No. 808, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)½ pt. water (1 c.)
    2½ Tbs. cornflour2 eggs
    Rind and juice of 1 lemon3-4 oz. sugar (6-8 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Bake the pastry case without a filling as in No. 812 or No. 813. Mix the cornflour to a smooth paste with a little of the water. Boil the rest of the water with the grated lemon rind. Pour on the cornflour, mix well, return to the pan and boil for 5 minutes. Add the egg yolks and cook for a few minutes without boiling. Add the sugar, lemon juice and margarine and mix well. Pour into the cooked case. Make the egg whites into a meringue for the top of the tart as in No. 765.

  1548. Fruit flan

  1549. Use short pastry, No. 807, or sweet pastry, No. 811. The pastry case may be made as in Nos. 812-13, and baked without filling.

    Stewed or canned fruit filling. Stew fuit carefully to keep a good shape. Drain stewed or canned fruit and arrange it in the flan. Take ½ pt. (1 c.) of the juice and either thicken with 1 level tablespoon arrowroot or potato fécule, and pour over the fruit while hot; or melt 1 tablespoon gelatine in the hot juice, allow to cool to begin thickening and then spoon over the fruit.

    Fresh fruit. Arrange in the flan. Either cover with a packet of jelly of the same flavour, cooked until it begins to thicken, and then spooned over; or melt ¼ pound (125 g.) of jam of the same flavour with 1 Tbs. water, strain if necessary, cool a little, and spoon over the fruit.

  1550. Open apple tart or flan

  1551. Cooking time ½ hour

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm) tart

    Short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or 808, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)3 oz. sugar (6 Tbs.)
    1 Tbs. chopped peel or a little grated lemon rind.2 or 3 Tbs. currants
    1 oz. margarine (25 g.)¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
    1 lb. apples (500 g.)

    Measures level. Line the dish with pastry as for No. 813 or make continental flan, No. 815. Bake blind. Peel the apples and cut them in eighths. Put in a pan with the other ingredients and cook gently until tender but not broken. Arrange the apple in the flan and pour over the juice. Serve cold with cream.

  1552. Plum flan

  1553. Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20 cm) tart

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)2 oz. cottage cheese (50 g.), optional
    1 lb. plums (500 g.)2-3 oz. demerara (4-6 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Line a flan ring or sandwich tin with the pastry as in No. 812 or No. 813. Cut the plums in quarters or thick slices, remove the stones. Arrange in the pastry and sprinkle the sugar over and the cheese on top of that. Bake for ½ hour until the plums and pastry are cooked. Serve hot ot cold.

  1554. Small jam tarts

  1555. Roll short pastry, No. 807, ⅛-inch (3 mm.) thick. Cut in rounds with a plain or fluted cutter a little larger than the patty-tines. Turn the pastry inside out and press into the tins. Put a little jam in each and cover the top of the jam with a thin layer of cold water. This prevents the jam from drying out during cooking. Bake in a hot oven 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6, for 10-15 minutes
  1556. Fairy tarts

  1557. Make as for jam tarts, No. 825, using sweet pastry, No. 811. Bake the cases without filling, and then fill with jam, lemon curd, crushed fresh fruit, or fruit purée, No. 602. and decorate with whipped cream.
  1558. Curd cheese cakes

  1559. Cooking time ½-¾ hour

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for an 7-8-inch (18-20 cm) tart

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)
    ½ lb. cottage cheese (250 g.)1 egg
    1 oz. melted butter (25 g.)Rind ½ lemon
    1 oz. currants (2 Tbs.)Grated nutmeg

    Measures level. Roll the pastry and line the flan ring or sandwich tin as in No. 812 or 813. Mix the cheese, melted butter, currants and sugar in a basin. Add the beaten egg and the lemon rind. Pour into the pastry case and sprinkle grated nutmeg on top. Bake in a hot oven for 30-45 minutes. Alternatively, the mixture may be made into small tarts and baked for about 20 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

  1560. Treacle tart

  1561. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for a 7-inch (18-cm) tart

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)6 oz. tracle or syrup (6 Tbs.)
    3 oz. breadcrumbs (1½ c.)

    Measures level. Roll the pastry to fit a flan ring or pie-plate. Cober the bottom with syrup and add the breadcrumbs. Leave to stand for ½ hour before baking. Any remaining pastry may be cut in strips to make a lattice top. Serve hot or cold.

  1562. Cranberry pie

  1563. Cooking time 25 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20-cm) pie

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)8 oz. sugar (1 c.)
    8 oz. cranberries (250 g.)2 Tbs. flour
    ¼ pt. water (½ c,)

    Measures level. Roll the psatry and cut to line a deep tin or plate. Mix the other ingredients and boil gently for 10 minutes. Cool. Put in the pastry-case and put strips of pastry across the top to make a lattice and a double rim round the edge to cover the ends, see No. 814. Bake in a hot oven. Serve with cream or custard.

  1564. Louise cakes

  1565. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20-cm) pie

    3 oz. plain flour (1 c.)2 eggs
    ½ tsp. baking powderRaspberry jam
    Pinch of saltFilling
    1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)4 oz. sugar (½ c.)
    2 oz. margarine (50 g.)2 oz. desiccated coconut (½ c.)

    Measures level. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the 1 oz. sugar and rub in the margarine. Mix to a stiff dough with the egg yolks, slightly beaten. Roll out and cut in rounds to line small patty tins. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold in the sugar and coconut. Put a small spoonful of jam in the botton of each pastry-case and two-thirds fill with coconut mixture. Bake until pale brown.

  1566. Kolac

  1567. Cooking time 15-40 minutes

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for a tin 12 x 9 inches (30x22 cm.)

    8 oz. wholemeal flour (1frac12; c.)1 egg
    ½ tsp. baking powder2 apples and 2 bananas OR 1 lb. red plums (500 g.)
    ¼ tsp. salt2 oz. cottage cheese (50 g.)
    4 oz. butter (125 g.)Brown sugar
    3 oz. fine brown sugar (&farc12; c.)½ oz. butter (1 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Mix the flour, baking powder, and salt and rub in the butter. Add the fine brown sugar. Mix to a soft dough with the beaten egg. Knead lightly and roll to fit the greased tin. A Swiss roll tin is ideal. Peel and chop the apples and bananas or stone anc chop the plums. Cover the pastry with the fruit and sprinkle the cottage cheese over the top. Cover this with a generous layer of soft brown sugar and dot with the ½ oz. butter. Bake in a moderate oven and, when cool, cut in squares.

  1568. Macaroon tartlets

  1569. Cooking time 20 minutes

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 7.

    Quantities for 18 tartlets

    6 oz. flour (1¼ c.) made into flaky pastry, No. 8082 oz. ground almonds (½ c.)
    Apricot jam4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)
    2 egg whitesAlmond essence

    Measures level. Roll the pastry ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick and cut into rounds to line small patty tins. Put ½ tsp. jam in the bottom of each. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt. When stiff, fold in the almonds and sugar and add a few drops of almond essence. Put a little in each tart and bake in a hot oven until firm and pale brown.

  1570. Kipper flan

  1571. Cooking time 50 minutes

    Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6 for pastry; Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5 for for filling.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20-cm.) flan.

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)4 oz. stoned black olives (125 g.)
    2 filleted kippers, chopped2 eggs
    1 small onion, chopped4 Tbs. milk.
    ½ oz. butter (1 Tbs.)Pepper

    Measures level. Roll the psatry and line the flan. Bake blind. Melt the butter in a small pan and cook the onion slowly, until it is soft but not brown. Put kipper, onions and olives in the cooked flan case. Beat the eggs to break up, add milk and pepper to taste. Pour over the fish and bake for 30 minutes or until set. Suitable for hors-d'œuvre or for a main dish with salad.

  1572. Salmon flan

  1573. Cooking time 30 minutes

    Temperature 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20-cm.) flan.

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 4 oz. flour (¾ c.)¼ chopped green peppers
    8 oz. canned salmon (250 g.)½ oz. flour (1½ Tbs.)
    ¼ pt. canned, sliced mushrooms (½ c.)¼ tsp. salt
    1 oz. butter (25 g.)1 Tbs. chopped red pimento
    1 stick chopped celeryPinch of garlic salt
    Sliced red pimento

    Measures level. Roll the pastry, line the flan and bake blind. While it is cooking make the filling. Drain the salmon and mushrooms, retaining the liquids. Melt the butter and stew the celery and green pepper in it until they are tender. Mix in the flour and salt. Make the mushroom and salmon liquids up to ¼ pt. (½ c.) with milk. Add to the pan and stir until it boils, boil for a few minutes. Add the salmon, mushrooms, chopped red pimento and garlic salt. Heat thoroughly and pour into the pastry case. Serve hot or cold, garnished with slices of red pimento.

  1574. Making a double crust tart

    (Using short or sweet pastry)

    N.B. 8 oz. flour (1½ c.) make enough pastry for an 8-9 inch (20-23 cm.) tart. They are always nicer if the pastry is kep fairly thin.

    These are made in sandwich tins, enamel plates or plates of heat-resisting glass.

    1. Roll a piece of pastry into a circle ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick and 1-2 inches (2-5 cm.) wider than the dish. Fold in half and lift into the dish, then open it out and press gently into the dish without stretching. Trim off the overhanging pastry level with the edge of the dish.
    2. Add the filling, having enough to come level with the top of the plate, or above, for a fruit that shrinks a lot during cooking.
    3. Roll another piece of patry 2 inches larger than the plate.
    4. Moisten the edges of the under-piece and lift the top on, easing and not stretching. Fold the overhanging pastry under the lower crust and press the edges wel together. This makes a good seal to prevent juices from boiling out. Flute the edges as described in No. 813, or scallop, as in No. 841.
    5. Cut a hole in the centre of the tart to allow steam to escape. Brush the top with milk or beaten egg and bake in a hot oven 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6, for ½-¾ hour, depending on the kind of filling used.
  1575. Double apple tart

  1576. Make as No. 835, using for the filling of an 8-inch (20-cm.) tart, 1 lb. (500 g.) apples, 4-6 oz. sugar (½-¾ c.), ¼ tsp. nutmeg or cinamon, ¼ level tsp. salt, 2 tsp. lemon juice, 1 tsp grated lemon rind.
  1577. Double berry tart

  1578. (Suitable for blackcurrants, cherries, gooseberries, blackberries, elderberries, raspberries, loganberries)

    Make as No. 835, using for the filling of an 8-inch (20-cm.) tart, 1frac12; lb. (750 g.) fruit, 4 oz. sugar (½ c.) and 2 level Tbs. flour to sprinkle over. The flour thickens the juice. Suitable for hors-d'œuvre or for a main dish with salad.

  1579. Bacon and egg tart

  1580. Cooking time 30-40 minutes

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for an 8-inch (20-cm.) flan.

    Short pastry, No. 807, using 6 oz. flour (1½ c.)1 sliced tomato
    4 rashers of bacon4 eggs
    1 oz. sliced mushrooms (25 g.)1 Tbs. chopped parsley
    ½ tsp. mixed herbsSalt and pepper

    Measures level. Make according to No. 835, spreading the bacon, mushrooms and tomato on the bottom of the pastry and pouring over the eggs and the seasoning. Serve hot or cold.

  1581. Small double crust tarts

  1582. Roll the pastry, short or flaky, to ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick and cut in rounds. Make the tarts in patty tins. Use a cutter a little larger than the tin. Line the tins and put in the filling, which may be the same as in Nos. 836-8. Cover with pastry and press the edges together. Cut a slit in the top. bake in a hot oven, 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6, for 20-30 minutes depending on the size. If meat-filling is used it should be stewed first.
  1583. Mincemeat for tarts

  1584. 8 oz. raisins (250 g.)8 oz. sugar (1 c.)
    8 oz. apples (250 g.)6 oz. candies peel (150 g.)
    8 oz. currants (250 g.)1 small nutmeg, grated
    2 oz. almonds (50 g.)½ tsp. salt
    2 oz. chrystalised cherries (50 g.)2-3 Tbs. brandy or rum
    Grated rinds and juice 1 lemon

    Measures level. Mix the dried fruit and the apples. Mix all the ingredients well and store in covered jars. To make the tarts use short pastry, No. 807, or flaky pastry, No. 808, and bake in patty tins (see No. 839) or on a baking sheet.

  1585. Quick method for covering a pie

    1. Fill the pie-dish well, using a pie-funnel or inverted egg-cup to holf the pastry up if the contents of the pie are likely to shrink a lot during cooking.
    2. Roll the pastry to ⅛-¼ inch (3-6 mm.) thick and about two inches wider all round than the dish. Place the pastry over the rolling pin and lift it gently onto the pie withour stretching. Trim off all round leaving ½ inch (1 cm.) over-hanging.
    3. Turn the overhanging piece under to make it level with the edge. Damp the dges of the pie-dish and press the pastry down.
    4. Decorate by slashing the edges of the pastry horizontally with a sharp knife. Then scallop by pressing with the thumb and cutting with the knife.
    5. Cut a slit in the top of the pie to let out the steam. Brush with egg or milk and bake in a hot oven 425° F. (220° C.) Mark ^, for ½ hour or longer, according to the kind ot pie.
  1586. Standard method for covering a pie

    ()suitable for all types of pastry)

    1. Fill the pie-dish as for quick method, No. 841.
    2. Roll the pastry ⅛-¼ inch (3-6 mm.) thick and about 1 inch (2 cm.) wider than the top of the dish.
    3. Cut a strip of pastry the width and length of the the rim of the dish. Damp the edge of the dish and then put the strip of pastry round. Damp it on top.
    4. Place the large piece of pastry over the rolling pin and lift it gently on top of the pie, taking care not to stretch it. Press down the edge.
    5. Trim off any surplus and slash and decorate the edge. Finish in the same way as for the quick method, No. 841.
  1587. Fruit pies

  1588. Use short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or 808, made with 8 oz. (1½ c.) flour. Allow 2 lb. (1 kg.) fruit for a 2-pt (1 l.) size pie dish, 4 oz. sugar (½ c.), and ¼ pt. (½ c.) or less of water. Juicy fruit needs very little water. Stand the pie on a baking tray to cook, as this will catch the juice as it boils over. Cook for ½-¾ hour at 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6. Suitable for hors-d'œuvre or for a main dish with salad.
  1589. Steak-and-kidney pie

  1590. Cooking time 2 hours

    Quantities for 6-8 helpings.

    2 lb. stewing steak (1 kg.)1 Tbs. flour
    8 oz. kidney (250 g.)½ tsp. pepper
    1 tsp. saltHot water

    Measures level. Cut the meat in small pieces and chop the kidney. Roll in the flour and sesoning and pack in the pie dish. Add water to come three-quarters of the way up the meat and cover with short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or 808, using 8 oz. flour (1½ c.)

    Bake in a hot oven 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for about 15 minutes and then reduce the heat to moderate 300-325° F. (160° C.) Mark 1, for the rest of the 2 hours.

  1591. Veal-and-ham pie

  1592. Cooking time 2 hours

    Quantities for 4 helpings.

    1½ lb. fillet veal (750 g.) (1 kg.)1 tsp. grated lemon rind
    6 oz. bacon (150 g.)1 tsp. salt
    1 hard-boiled eggPinch of pepper
    1 tsp. chopped parsley¼ pt. stock or water (½ c.)

    Measures level. Make and bake in the same way as No. 844, chopping the egg and bacon and mixing it with the meat.

  1593. Rabbit pie

  1594. Cooking time 1½-2 hours

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings.

    1 rabbitRabbit stock
    ¾ lb. bacon or pickled pork (750 g.)1 tsp. salt
    Forcemeat balls, see No. 135Pinch of pepper
    Flaky pastry, No. 808

    Measures level. Boil the rabbit trimmings and giblets to make stock. Divide the rabbit in joints. Dice the bacon or pork. Pack the meat into a pie-dish with the forcemeat balls. Add salt and pepper and stock to fill the dish three-quarters full. Cover with the pastry and bake in a hot oven 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for about 15 minutes and then reduce the heat to moderate 300-325° F. (150-160° C.) Mark 1 for the rest of the cooking time. Serve hot or cold.

  1595. Apple dumplings

  1596. Roll short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or 808 into squares ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and large enough to cover the apples. Peel and core the apples and fill the centres with brown sugar and a knob or margarine, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Stand in the middle of the pastry squares and wrap in the pastry, pinching the joints well. Place them on a baking tray and bake in a hot oven 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6 for 30 minutes or until the apples are tender and the pastry cooked. Test the apples by pushing a fine skewer into one of them.
  1597. Sausage rolls

  1598. For ½ lb. (250 g.) sausage meat make 4 oz. (¾ c.) flour into short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or 808. Roll out ¼ inch (6mm) thick and cut in 8 oblongs about 3 x 4 inches (8 x 10 cm.). Divide the meat into 8 sausage-shaped pieces, place on the pastry and fold over. Slash the edges as for pie No. 841, and cut three diaginal slits in the top of each. Brush with milk or egg and bake in a hot oven 450&deag; F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for 25-30 minutes.
  1599. Cornish pasties

  1600. Cooking time 30-40 minutes

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6.

    Quantities for 4 pasties.

    Short pastry, No. 807 using 8 oz. flour (1½ c.)1 small onion, chopped
    8 oz. raw minced beef (250 g.)1 tsp. salt
    4 oz. diced raw potato (1 medium)Pinch of pepper

    Measures level. Mix the filling ingredients. Divide the pastry into four and roll each to ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick. Place a quarter of the filling on each, damp the edges and fold over. Slash the edges as for No. 841, cut a small hole in the top and brush with egg or milk. Bake in a hot oven.

  1601. Fish pasties

  1602. Cooking time 30 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (220° C.) Mark 8.

    Quantities for 4 pasties.

    Short pastry, No. 807 using 8 oz. flour (1½ c.) or flaky pastry No. 8081 small onion, chopped
    8 oz. white fish or shell-fish (250 g.)1 rasher bacon chopped
    4 oz. diced raw potato (1 medium)Pinch of pepper
    1 tsp. salt

    Measures level. Remove any bone or skin from the fish and cut it into small cubes. Mix with the other ingredients. Roll into four rounds and finish as for Cornish pasties, No. 849.

  1603. Jam baked roll (Jam roly-poly)

  1604. Use short or flaky pastry, No. 807 or 808. Roll the pastry to a rectangle ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick or less. Spread with a thin layer of jam to wihin ½ inch (1 cm.) of the edges. Fold over the edges to hold the jam, brush with milk or water and roll like a Swiss roll. Place on a baking tray. Cook in a hot oven 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 6, for 30-45 minutes, according to the size.

    Alternative fillings are:

    • Lemon curd instead of jam
    • Jam, chopped apples, sultanas and mixed spice
    • Honey, chopped nuts and mixed spice
  1605. Vanilla squares or custard slices

  1606. Cut flaky or puff pastry in strips 4 inches (10 cm.) wide and about ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick. Prick well and bake in a hot oven 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for about 10 minutes. Sandwich together with confectioner's custard, No. 692, and ice with water icing, No. 674. Sprinkle with chopped nuts. Cut in squares or fingers with a sharp knife, held upright and pulled through carefully.
  1607. Cake of a thousand leaves (Mille-feuilles)

  1608. Puff pastry, No. 809 or use frozenLemon water icing, No. 674
    ½ pt. confectioner's custard, No. 692 (1 c.)2 Tbs. chopped walnuts or almonds
    ½ pt. thick apple purée, sweetened (1 c.)Crystallised fruit
    Grated rind ½ lemonWhipped cream

    Measures level. Cut the pastry into 6 equal pieces and roll each one thinly. Cut into rounds using an 8-inch (20 cm.) sandwich tin as a guide. It heps to keep the pastry in shape if it is rolled and baked on greaseproof paper. Prick well and chill for 15-20 minutes before baking in a hot oven 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for 8-10 minutes. Cool on the paper. Add the lemon rind to the apple. Sandwich the pastry in layers, using custard and apple alternately. Ice the top with water icing and decorate with nuts and fruit. Ice the sides with the cream or pipe it on with an icing bag and rosette tube. Cut in wedges and serve as a cake or a cold sweet.

  1609. Cream crisps or palmiers

  1610. Cooking time 5-10 minutes.

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.
    Puff pastry, No. 809 or use frozenCaster sugar
    Grated rind ½ lemonWhipped cream

    Roll the pastry on a board sprinkled with caster sugar instead of flour. Roll to a rectangle. Fold the sides to the centre and then fold the sides to the centre again. Cut downwards into slices about ½ inch (1 cm.) thick. Put on a greased tray, cut side up, allowing room for spreading. Sprinkle with sugar and bake to a pale brown. If liked, join together with whipped cream.

  1611. Eccles cakes

  1612. Cooking time 15-20 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.

    Quantities for 18 cakes.

    8 oz. flour made into flaky pastry, No. 8084 oz. currants (⅔ c.)
    ½ oz. melted butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)½ tsp. cinnamon
    4 oz. brown sugar (½ c.)½ tsp. nutmeg
    Grated rind 1 lemon1 oz. chopped peel (2 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Roll the pastry ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick and cut in rounds with a 4-inch (10 cm.) cutter. Mix all the other ingredients together. Put 2-3 tsp. on each round. Brush the edges with water and press them together to form a ball. Turn over and roll the top until the fruit begines to show through. Cut 3 gashes on top with a sharp knife. Bake until lightly browned.

  1613. Choux pastry

    (for cream puffs and éclairs)

    Quantities for 18 small:

    1 oz. margarine (25 g.)2 oz. plain flour (6 Tbs.)
    ¼ pt. water (½ c.)2 eggs
    Pinch of salt

    Measures level.

    1. Put the first three ingredients in a pan and bring to the boil.
    2. Then add all the flour at once and mix well. Cook for a few minutes over a gentle heat until the mixture leaves the side of the pan.
    3. Allow to cool a little. Beat in the eggs one at a time and continue beating until the mixture is smooth and shiny. Very thorough beating is essential for good results, and it is hard work, as the mixture is fairly stiff. Beating takes about 10 minutes.
    4. Bake on greased trays, in spoonfuls for puffs and finger lengths for éclairs. A forcing tube helps to give even shapes an sizes. bake in a hot oven, 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8, for 10-15 minutes and then reduce heat to moderate, 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5, for another 20-25 minutes. Allow to cook for 30 minutes before opening the oven door. The buns should be quite dry in the centre, or they will become flabby on cooling. Leave plenty of room for them to rise.
    5. When cold, split and fill with whipped cream, confectioner's custard, No. 692 or butter cream, No. 696. The tops of éclairs are iced with glacé icing, No. 675, or coffee glacé icing, No. 676.
  1614. Profiteroles with chocolate sauce

  1615. Quantities for 6 helpings:

    Choux pastry, No. 856Chocolate sauce, No. 99
    Whipped cream, or butter cream, No. 696, or confectioner's custard, No. 692

    Make the choux pastry into 24 small cream puffs, baking about 30 minutes. Fill with the cream or custard and pile on a serving dish. Pour over the hot sauce and serve at once.

    Batters

  1616. General method for mixing batters

    1. Sift the dry ingredients into a basin and make a well in the centre. Put the eggs in the well with half the liquid.
    2. Start mixing from the centre, gradually owrking in all the flour from the sides.
    3. Thin batters, like pancakes and Yorkshire puddings need very thorough beating to mix in plenty of air, but thick batters containing baking powder should be beaten only enough to make a smooth mixture. Too much beating makes them tough. Add the rest of the liquid.
    4. Cook as described for the various kinds of batters

    Blender Method. Put eggs, flour and milk in the blender goblet in order, and mix for one minute.

  1617. Pancakes

    Cooking time 1-2 minutes each.

    Quantities for 8 pancakes:

    4 oz. flour (¾ c.)About ½ pt. milk (1 c.)
    ½ tsp. saltFat for frying
    1 egg

    Measures level.

    1. Mix according to the general method for batters given in No. 858, making a thin batter The correct consistency is important, as if the batter is too thin, the pancakes will stick, and if too thick, they will be heavy.
    2. heat a little fat in a small sauncepan. Pour some into a clean, smooth frying-pan, using one 6-7 inches (15 cm.) across. Turn the frying-pan well to make sure it is evenly coated with fat, and the pour off any surplus into the small saucepan. When the pan is hot, but not smoking, pour in a little of the batter from a jug, tilting the pan to make it flow over evenly.
    3. Cook for a minute or two until brown underneath shaking the pan to keep the pancake loosened. keep the edges free with a knife. When it is cooked on one side, toss or turn with a broad pallette knife or fish-slice and finish cooking. Turn out onto a piece of paper sprinkled with sugar, and sprinle the pancake with lemon juice. Roll up and keep hot until all are cooked. Sprinkle with more sugar and serve with slices of lemon. Grease the pan as before, and continue until all the batter is used.
  1618. Jam pancakes

  1619. Make in the same way as No. 859, spreading warm jam on each one before rolling up. Marmalade is very good on pancakes, and a little grated orange or lemon rind may be added to the batter before cooking.
  1620. Stuffed savoury pancakes

  1621. Quantities for 8 pancakes:

    Pancake batter, No. 8591 oz. fat (25 g.)
    4 oz. cooked minced meat or game (½ c.)2 Tbs. bottled sauce
    1 onion, choppedSalt and pepper to taste

    Measures level. Make the pancakes and put them in a pile one above the other to keep hot. Then spread each one with the filling which is made by frying the onion in the fat and then adding the other ingredients. Season well. Roll up, place in a baking-dish, and cook in a moderate oven 400° F. (200° C.) Mark 6, until they are crisp on top, or cover them with ½ pt. (1 c.) tomato sauce, No. 89, or mushroom sauce, No. 82, or brown sauce, No. 73, or cheese sauce, No. 75, and cook for about 20 minutes or until well heated.

  1622. Yorkshire pudding

  1623. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    Make the same batter as for pancakes, No. 859. Heat some dripping in a shallow pan 8 x 10 inches (20 x 25 cm.), and when it is very hot pour in the batter and cook in a very hot oven, 475° F. (250° C.) Mark 9, for about 10 minutes, and then reduce the heat to 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 7, for another 30 minutes, or until the batter is cooked. it should be well risen, brown, and hollow inside, without any siggy, uncooked layers. These are generally due to insufficient cooking.

    BATTER PUDDING, which is more solid, is made by using double the amount of flour.

    TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE is made like Yorkshire pudding, but 1 lb. (500 g.) skinned sausages is heated in the fat for five minutes before adding the batter.

    MEAT IN BATTER is made in the same way, but using 1 Lb. (500 g.) small chops, or steak cut in pieces.

  1624. Individual Yorkshire puddings or popovers

  1625. These are made in exactly the same way as the larger one, but are baked in small, deep patty-tins, or pudding moulds. In the U.S.A they are eaten hot with butter and jam in place of scones. Baking time is 10 minutes at the high temperature and 20-25 minutes at a lower heat, as with Yorkshire pudding, No. 862.
  1626. Apple batter

  1627. Add 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) sugar to the batter recipe, No. 859, and pour it into a hot pan. Cover with 2 or 3 sliced apples and sprinkle on a little cinnamon or nutmeg. Bake in the same way as No. 862. Cut in squares and serve hot.
  1628. Fritter batter

  1629. Cooking time 10-15 minutes

    4 oz. SR flour (¾ c.)¼ pt. milk, approx. (½ c.)
    1 tsp. saltFlavouring, see Nos. 866-70
    ¼ pepper (savoury only)Fat for frying
    1 egg

    Measures level. Mix according to No. 858 for general batters. Add the flavouring and fry spoonfuls in hot fat until brown on both sides or fry in deep fat.

  1630. Bacon fritters

  1631. Add 3 oz. chopped bacon (½ c.) to fritter batter, No. 865. Serve with tomato sauce, No. 89, or brown sauce, No. 73.
  1632. Meat or fish fritters

  1633. Add 3 oz. minced cooked meat (½ c.) or flaked cooked or canned fish to fritter batter, No. 865. Serve with tomato sauce, No. 89, or brown sauce, No. 73, or cheese sauce, No. 75.
  1634. Dried fruit fritters

  1635. Add 2 oz. dried fruit (4 Tbs.) to fritter batter, No. 865. When cooked with caster sugar and cinnamon mixed, and then with lemon juice or serve with lemon sauce, No. 102, or jam sauce, No. 101.
  1636. Cheese fritters

  1637. Add 2-3 oz. grated cheese (50-75 g.) to fritter batter, No. 865. Serve with tomato sauce, No. 89.
  1638. Apple fritters

  1639. Peel and core 4 medium-sized cooking apples, and cut them across in ⅓-inch (8 mm.) slices. Make fritter batter, No. 865. Take each apple-ring on the point of a skewer and dip it into the batter, coat well, lift out, and drop into the hot fat, deep or shallow. Fry until brown all over. Serve with caster sugar and lemon juice sprinkled over.
  1640. Drop scones, pikelets, girdle cakes, or scotch pancakes

  1641. Cooking time 2-4 minutes each batch

    Quantities for 24 small cakes:

    4 oz. SR flour (¾ c.)½ oz. melted margarine (1 Tbs.)
    ¼ tsp. salt⅛-¼ pt. milk (¼-½ c.)
    2 eggs1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Mix to a thick batter according to the general method, No. 858, adding sugar with the flour and the margarine at the end. These are baked either on a girdle, heavy frying-pan, or solid electric hot-plate. Heat until the girdle feels hot when the hand is held just above it, or until drops of cold water will dance about. Grease slightly with lard or cooking fat, using a twist of paper. Drop the mixture from the tip of a tablespoon, when it should flow into a perfect circle. Cook until bubbles begin to appear on the top but do not break. Turn and cook the other side. The girdle should be hot enough to brown both sides by the time the mixture is cooked through, If too hot they will brown before the inside is done, if too slow they will be heavy and of poor appearance. Serve with butter and jam, syrup, or honey. As they are cookked put them on a cake-rack. The practice of putting them in a towel is apt to make them damp and soggy.

    N.B. Very light pancakes may be made by beating the eggs, and sugar until thick and light and then mixing in the other ingredients.

  1642. Girdle pancakes

  1643. Add about half as much milk again to recipe No. 871, and make in large, thin cakes similar to the size of a pancake. Then serve in any of the ways mentioned for pancakes, see Nos. 859-61, or pile the cakes one on top of the other with a little butter or magarine between each. Cut in wedges and serve with syrup sauce, No. 107. They may also be piled in the same way with jam in between.

    Chapter 19 - Bread and sandwiches

  1644. Food value

  1645. Eating bread is one of the batter ways of getting necessary calories. This is because bread is also a good source of protein, calcium, iron and some B vitamins (thiamin and niacin).

    There are small differences in the nutritive value between wholemeal and white or brown bread (see No. 611), but these are of little significance in a good mixed diet. Fancy breads and buns sometimes contain dried milk, eggs, gruit and sugar, while others have protein or reduced starch. Unless a person is on a strictly controlled diet, personal taste is the best guide for choosing bread.

    Sandwiches can make nourishing and satisfying meals, even better than a hot meal. Whether this will be the case depends on the choice of filling and the amount. Protein-rich foods such as cheese, eggs, meat and fish are the best fillings and to make a balanced meal there should be some vegetables such as tomato, watercress etc. with it, or some fresh fruit to follow.

  1646. Keeping bread fresh

  1647. Wrapped bread should be stored in its wrapping, preferably in a bread bin. Unwrapped bread keeps well for several days in a polythene bag, but will eventually develop mould. Keeping the bread in a refrigerator delays the onset of mould but does not prevent staling. Bread keeps well for a month of more in the freezer and can quickly be thawed in a warm oven or more slowly at room temperature. Slices can be toasted while frozen.

    If a bread bin is used for storing bread it should be cleaned out regularly and stale pieces of bread used for breadcrumbs. If you are unluckly enough to have bread go mouldy scald out the conatiner with boiling water to destroy the mould spores. Then dry thoroughly before using it again.

  1648. Toast

  1649. better toast is made with bread one or two days old than with new bread. If you like toast soft in the middle, use thick-cut sliced bread and and toast quickly near a fierce heat. If crisper toast is preferred, use thin-cut and turn several times during toasting so that it dries as it toasts.

    Melba toast is made by dring thin slices of stale bread. Dry in a very slow oven until they are crisp and brown. When cool they may be stored in an airtight tin and will keep well.

    Very stale bread may be used for toasting if it is first dipped in a little water, then toasted slowly, and buttered while hot.

  1650. Preparing breadcrumbs

  1651. FRESH CRUMBS. When a recipe specifies fresh crumbs it generally means crumbs made from bread one or two days old. The crusts are removed and kept for making brown crumbs.

    The quickest way of preparing breadcrumbs is to use an electric blender. Failing that, use a small mouli-grater. An ordinary grater can be used but it will not give such fine, even crumbs as the other two. Fresh crumbs will keep for several days in a covered container in a refrigerator or cold larder and keep almost indefinitely in a deep freeze.

    DRIED CRUMBS. These are made by drying bread until crisp. Then crush it with a rolling pin, put it through a fine mincer, or in an electric blender. Sieve to remove any coarse crumbs. Stored in a covered tin. White crumbs are made by drying the crumb of the bread and drying it so slowly that it does not colour. They are use for coating food to be fried. Brown crumbs are made by frying crusts and crumb until golden brown.

    'Raspings' may be either these brown crumbs or finely grated crust from a stale loaf.

    Dried crumbs may be used in most recipes in place of fresh crumbs, but only half the amount is needed. Additional liquid must be used for mixing, as dried crumbs soak up more than fresh crumbs.

    BUTTERED CRUMBS. Melt 1 oz. butter or margarine and add 2 c. fresh breadcrumbs. Stir until well mixed. This is used for the top of sweet and savoury dishes which are to be browned in the oven or under the grill, and is very much nicer than using ordinary breadcrumbs dotted with fat.

  1652. Queen of puddings

  1653. Cooking time 1 hour.

    Temperature 350° F. (180° C.) Mark 4-5.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    3 oz. breadcrumbs (1½ c.)½ tsp. vanilla essence or a pinch of spice
    2 Tbs. sugar¼ tsp. salt
    ½ oz. margarine (1 Tbs.)2-3 Tbs. softened red jam
    2 eggs1 pt. hot milk (2 c.)

    Measures level. Put the breadcrumbs, sugar and margarine in a bowl and pour on the hot milk. Leave to soak for a few minutes. Separate the egg yolks and whites; beat the yolks and add to the milk mixture. Add flavouring and salt. Pour into a greased 2 pt. (1 l.) pie-dish or baking dish and cook until set, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven, and allow to stand for a few minutes. Meanwhile beat the egg whites and make a meringue with 2-4 Tbs. sugar, according to taste. Soften the jam by warming or adding a little hot water. Spread jam on top of pudding and cover with meringue. Bake until the meringue is lightly coloured, 15-20 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

  1654. Banana pudding

  1655. Make in the same way as No. 877, but add a mashed banana to the bread mixture. Mashed banana may also be mixed with the jam to spread on top, or cover the top with sliced banana and omit the jam.
  1656. Butterscotch pudding

  1657. Use the same recipe as No. 877, but with 4 oz. brown sugar (½ c.) instead od the white sugar, and heat it with the margarine until the sugar melts. Dissolve this in the hot milk before proceding in the usual way.
  1658. Chocolate pudding

  1659. Use recipe No. 877, adding an extra tablespoon of sugar and 4 level Tbs. cocoa to the breadcrumbs.
  1660. Coconut pudding

  1661. Use recipe No. 877, adding ½ c. dessicated coconut to the crumbs.
  1662. Orange or lemon pudding

  1663. Use recipe No. 877, adding the grated rind of one orange or lemon. Leave out the vanilla or spice and use marmalade instead of jam.
  1664. Brown betty

  1665. Cooking time ¾-1 hour.

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    1 oz. margarine½ tsp. grated nutmeg
    2 c. fresh breadcrumbsRind and juice of ½ lemon
    1½-2 lb. sliced apple (¾-1 kg.)¼ pt. hot water (½ c.)
    2 oz. brown or white sugar (4 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Melt the margarine, add the crumbs, mix well. Put alternate layers of crumbs and apples in the dish, sprinkling each layer with sugar, nutmeg and lemon rind, finishing with crumbs. Pour over the water and lemon juice and bake in a moderate oven until the apples are cooked and the pudding brown on top. Serve with custard or cream.

  1666. Swedish apple cake

  1667. Cooking time ½ hour.

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for 7-8 inch (20 cm.) sandwich tin:

    1½ lb. apples (750 g.)½ oz. grated chocolate (3 Tbs.)
    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)Custard sauce, No. 105
    4 oz. breadcrumbs (2 c.)½ oz. margarine (1 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Peel, core and slice the apples and stew to a pulp with 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) sugar but no water. Heat the margarine in a frying-pan. Add the bradcrumbs and the rest of the sugar and cook until crisp, stirring frequently. Grease the tin and put ina layer of crumbs, then a layer of the apple, and repeat these, finishing with crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven for ½ hour and leave to cool. Turn out on a large dish and sprinkle the chocolate on top. Cut in wedges to serve. Hand the sauce separately.

  1668. Making sandwiches

    1. The butter or margarine should be soft so that it will spread easily. You will find a suggestion for making it go further in No. 140.
    2. For picnic sandwiches use thick-sliced bread; for dainty ones use thin-cut. Crusts may be removed or left on, according to taste.
    3. To keep sandwiches fresh wrap them in foil or in polythene, keeping each kind separate.
    4. Filling should ne moist enough to spread easily, but not so moist as to make the bread soggy if the sandwiches have to stand.
  1669. Rolled sandwiches

  1670. Use brown bread or white nread which must be new. The filling may be spread, or a piece of asparagus with a little mayonnaise, or a few shrimps held together with mayonnaise. Spread the bread with softened butter, trim off the crusts, add the filling and roll up. Pack close together so that they keep one another in shape. Chill to set the butter and filling and keep their shape.
  1671. Open sandwiches

  1672. These consist of a single layer of bread with the filling on top. They may be made very small for parties, or made from whole slices of bread with a lot of filling on top and served for lunch or supper. This sort is very popular in Denmark and all kinds of bread are used there for a base - White bread, rye or black bread, hard breads and so on. It is a very useful idea when you have small amounts of food to use up, as two or three kinds of these sandwiches are enough for a meal. They can be decorated to look very attractive. The small party kind should be as dainty and decorative as possible. They are best served on large flat meat-dishes, platters or small trays.
  1673. Fried sandwiches

  1674. This is a good way to use up stale sandwiches, or you can make the specially for the purpose, and in that case there is no nead to spread them with butter or margarine. Fry the sandwiches in a little hot fat until brown on both sides.
  1675. Toasted sandwiches

  1676. These are merely ordinary sandwiches toasted brown on both sides. An alternative method is to toast a thick slice of bread, split it, and then add the filling.
  1677. Savoury fillings

  1678. EGG AND GHERKIN. Mix 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs with 2 chopped gherkins and moisten with salad dressing.

    FISH. Mix any cooked flaked fish with salad dressing.

    COTTAGE CHEESE. Mix with chopped chives or pickles.

    SCRAMBLED EGG. Fry a little chopped bacon or onion in the fat before cooking the eggs in the usual way. Use cold.

    WATERCRESS. Chopped and mixed with salad dressing.

    SALMON. Mix flaked, tinned salmon with chopped gherkins or fresh cucumber and salad dressing.

    APPLE AND CELERY. Mix equal quantities of chopped celery and apple and moisten with salad dressing. Chopped walnuts may be added.

    MEAT AND CHUTNEY. Mince any cooked or canned meat and moisten with chutney.

    GRATED CHEESE and chopped watercress, spinach, apple or celery moistened with dressing.

    GRATED CHEESE and chopped nuts.

    COTTAGE CHEESE and sliced radishes.

    COTTAGE CHEESE and grated raw carrot.

    EGG AND SAUCE. Mix 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs with 1 Tbs. tomato sauce, 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce, I tbs. chopped parsley and season with salt and pepper.

    CHEESE AND ONION. Grated cheese mixed to a paste with onion-juice and hot water (grate onion to provide the juice).

    MUSHROOM. Mix chopped mushrooms into a white sauce and cook until tender.

    LIVER AND HAM. Mince together 4 oz. (125 g.) cooked liver, 4 oz. cooked ham. Season well with salt and pepper and add 2 Tbs. chopped capers or gherkins.

    LOBSTER. Finely chopped, cooked lobster moistened with salad dressing and seasoned well with salt and pepper, and lemon juice.

  1679. Sweet fillings

  1680. BANANA. Mash well and add a little lemon juice.

    PEANUT BUTTER AND HONEY. ½ c. honey warmes and mixed with 1 Tbs. peanut butter.

    PEANUT BUTTER AND APPLE. Mix peanut butter with raw grated apple.

    MINT AND RAISIN. Mince equal quantities of mint and raisins and add a little hot water to make a spreading consistency.

    DATE. Chop dates and heat them with alittle water until they make a smooth paste. Flavour with lemon juice or spice. A few chopped nuts may be added.

  1681. Suggestions for open sandwiches (large type)

  1682. CHEESE. Cover the buttered bread with a thin slice of any kind of cheese. Decorate with gherkins.

    MEAT. Place a thin slice of any type of meat on the bread. Decorate with pickles.

    SCRAMBLED EGG. Mix cold scrambled egg with a little chopped fried onion and place in a curled lettuce leaf on the bread.

    SARDINE. Place 2 or 3 sardines on the bread and decorate with radishes or watercress.

    SAUSAGE. Split a cold cooked sausage and spread with mustard. Place on the bread with a row of cucumber slices down one side and tomato slices down the other.

    SMOKED FISH. Mix flaked, smoked fish with enough parsley sauce, No.87, or tartare sauce, No. 117, to moisten. Decorate with parsley.

    Smoked salmon and eel are cut in thin slices and placed on the bread.

    SHRIMPS. Arrange in rows on the bread and decorate with lemon and parsley.

    SCRAMBLED EGG AND SHRIMPS. Spread scrambled egg on the bread (egg hot or cold) and decorate with shrimps.

    FRIED FILLET OF PLACE garnished with with tomato, cucumber, and lemon.

    COLD HAM AND SCRAMBLED EGG.

    SLICED COLD TONGUE with asparagus and mayonnaise.

    CORNED BEEF with horse-radish sauce.

    SALAMI SAUSAGE with scrambled egg and chives.

    SCRAMBLED EGG and tomato.

    TOMATO and fried onions.

    HARD-BOILED slices with pickles.

    COLD HAM slices with vegetable salad mixed with mayonnaise.

    COLD ROAST PORK and beetroot or pickled cucumber.

    PICKED HERRING and potato salad.

    Yeast mixtures

  1683. How to handle yeast

  1684. Using yeast is not difficult, as long as you remember it is a living plant which can be killed by the wrong treatment and that when it is dead it will not work to lighten the dough.

    Yeast needs food and warmth to make it frow. Its food is sugar and flour. As it grows it produces bubbles of a gas called carbon dioxide, and this gas makes the dough light. The same gas is produced by the chemicals used to make baking powder, see No. 725.

    The warmth yeast likes is just below blood heat, or 80-83° F. (20° C.). If the dough is heated above 95° F. (35° C.) the yeast dies and if below 66° F. (25° C.) it goes to sleep and does not produce any gas. Cooks who are used to handling yeast doughs can tell the correct temperature by the feel. Beginners will find it a help to use a thermometer, pushing the bulb into the dough. Any thermometer that registers up to 100° F. (40° C.) will do.

    The best places to put the dough to keep it warm are on the rack over the stoce, in the warming cupboard, or airing cupboard. If none of these is available the bason with the dough in it may be stood over a pan of hot water; but be careful not to have the water too hot. The dough should be covered with a clean tea-towel, or polythene during rising.

    When the mixture goes in the overn the yeast is killed and no more gas is produced. For this reason it is important to be sure that all yeast mixtures have been risen thoroughly, or been 'proved' before baking, otherwise they will be close and heavy. On the other hand, over-rising or proving can so stretch and weaken the dough that it cannot hold up and collapses in the oven, again giving a heavy result.

    With most yeast mixtures the dough should be allowed to double its size during rising before baking, whether it is just allowed one rising before baking, or whether it is kneaded after one rising and put to rise again before baking.

    Remember, too, that only plain flour is suitable for making yeast mixtures, and special strong bread flours are the best to use.

    Most yeast-doughs are kneaded, though some rich ones containing eggs are beaten hard instead. Kneading is working the dough lightly with the knuckles, fold it over and over as you knead. Use only just enough flour to prevent it from sticking to the board.

    Kneading or beating mixes the yeast and makes the mixture elastic.

  1685. Quick bread

  1686. Cooking time ¾-1 hour.

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 7, then 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for two 1-lb. (½ kg.) loaves:

    1 lb. plain flour, wholemeal or white (3¼ c.)2 tsp. sugar
    2 tsp. salt½ pt. tepid water (1 c.) or milk and water
    ½ oz. fresh yeast (10 g.) or 2 tsp. dried1 oz. melted fat

    Measures level. Sift the flour, salt and sugar and put in a warm place. Crumble the yeast into the tepid water. Make a well in the centre of the flour and pour in the water and the fat. Mix to a dough and knead well for 10 minutes. Divide in two and shape into loaves either to bake in greased loaf-pans or as cottage loaves on a greased baking tray. Stand in a warm place with a clean tea-towel over the top. When it has doubled its size bake in a hot oven for 15 minutes, and then reduce the heat to moderate for a further ½-¾ hour. If the loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. it is done. Cool on a rack.

  1687. Vienna bread

  1688. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Temperature 375° F. (190° C.) Mark 5.

    Quantities for two loaves:

    1 lb. plain flour (3¼ c.)1 egg
    2 tsp. salt1-2 oz. melted butter or margarine (25-50 g.)
    2 tsp. sugar¼-½ pt. milk (½-1 c.)

    Measures level. Sift the flour, sugar, and salt into a basin and put in a warm place. Crumble the yeast into half the lukewarm milk. Add the beaten egg and the fat, melted but not hot. Mix to a sticky gough, adding more milk if needed. Beat hard for 10 minutes and leave to rise in a warm place until double its bulk. Cover with a clean cloth. Knead well and divide in half. Divide each piece in three and roll into a long sausage about 1 inch (2 cm.) thick. Plait the pieces, securing the ends firmly together. Put on greased trays and leave to rise until double its bulk. Bake for about 20 minutes or until firm. Tap the bottom of one, and if it sounds hollow it is cooked. Cool on a rack.

  1689. Swedish pastry

  1690. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 7.

    Quantities for 1 dozen buns:

    8 oz.. plain flour (1½ c.)Apple purée or confectioner's custard, No. 692
    1½ Tbs. sugar1 egg white
    1 egg1 oz. yeast (25 g.)
    Milk to mix5 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)

    Measures level. Sift the flour into a basin and add the sugar. Make a well in the centre and add the egg, crumbled yeast and enough milk to make a stiff dough. Knead well. Roll to a rectangle about 1½ inches(4 cm.) thick. Put the butter or margarine on in small dabs. Fold in three and then three again, like a knapkin. Roll and repeat the rolling and folding three times. Leave in a cold place for 1 hour to become firm. Roll out ½ inch ( 1 cm.) thick, and cut in 4-inch (10 cm.) squares. Put a teaspoon full of apple or custard in the centre of each. Fold the corners to the centre like an envelope and press well together. Put in a warm place to rise to double the bulk, about 1 hour. Brush with slightly beaten egg white and bake until light brown. When cold ice with water icing, No. 674, or serve plain.

  1691. Rum babas

  1692. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 7.

    Quantities for 6-8 small babas:

    ½ oz. yeast (10 g.)¼ tsp. salt
    1 tsp. sugar4 oz. dried fruit (currants, peel, and raisins, ⅔ c.)
    6 Tbs. warm milk
    2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)Syrup
    2 oz. sugar (¼ c.)4 Tbs. water
    2 eggs2 Tbs. rum
    6 oz. plain flour (1¼ c.)4 oz. sugar (½ c.)

    Measures level. Mix the sugar with the warm milk and crumble in the yeast. Sprinkle the top with a little flour. Cover with a cloth and put in a warm place to begin rising. Leave for 15-20 minutes. Use the other ingredients except the fruit to make a cake mixture by the creaming method, Mo. 732. Add the yeast mixture and beat hard for 5 minutes. Add the fuit and half fill small greased moulds. Leave to rise to the tops. Bake until they feel springy when pressed in the centre. Turn out carefully, pour over the warm syrup, allowing it to soak in. To make the syrup, boil the sugar and water for 5-10 minutes and then add the rum. Cold ones may be decorated with whipped cream flavoured with rum.

  1693. Bath buns

  1694. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 7.

    Quantities for 1 dozen buns:

    8 oz. flour (1½ c.)3 oz. sugar (6 Tbs.)
    1 tsp. salt2 oz. sultanas (⅓ c.)
    3 oz. lard (75 g.)1½ oz. chopped peel (3 Tbs.)
    ½ oz. yeast (10 g.)Little egg for brushing
    1 tsp. sugarCoarse sugar
    1 egg¼ pt. milk

    Measures level. Sift the flour, 1 tsp. sugar and salt into a basin and rub in lard. Crumble the yeast into the liquid and add to the flour with the beaten egg. Beat well, cover, and leave to rise until double its bulk. Beat in the rest of the sugar and the fruit. Put on a greased tray in small heaps. Leave to rise until double the size. Brush with egg and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake until they are brown and springy in the centre.

  1695. Hot cross buns

  1696. Cooking time 20 minutes.

    Temperature 425° F. (220° C.) Mark 7.

    Quantities for 12-16 buns:

    ½ oz. yeast (10 g.)2 oz. sugar (¼ c.)
    1 tsp. sugar1 tsp. spice
    ½ pt. warm milk (1 c.)2 oz. sultanas
    1 lb. plain flour (3¼ c.)Glaze
    1 tsp. salt2 Tbs. sugar
    1 oz. lard (25 g.)2 Tbs. water

    Measures level. Add the sugar to the milk and crumble in the yeast. Sprinkle a little flour on top, cover and put in a warm place for 15 minutes to begin rising. Sift the rest of the flour into a warm bowl, with the salt. Rub in the lard. Add the sugar, fruit and spice, and then the yeast mixture. If necessary add more milk to make a soft dough. Knead well. Cover and leave to rise until double in bulk. Knead lightly, shape into buns and place on greased trays. Cut a cross on top of each with a sharp knife and leave to rise until double the size. Bake until they sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. While still hot brush with the glaze made by mixing the sugar and water and bringing it to the boil. Use while hot.

    Chapter 20 - Beverages

  1697. Food value

  1698. Tea and coffee are stimulants which have a little food value when served with milk and sugar.

    Cocoa is a milder stimulant and also provides some calories and some iron. Its value is very much increased when it is made with a large amount of milk.

    Milk and egg beverages are very nourishing, and are ideal for invalids and children, as they are rich in nutrients.

    Fruit drinkes are most valuable as thirst quenchers, but may provide vitamins if they are freshly made from fresh or canned fruit juices.

    Alcoholic beverages are stimulants. In small amounrs they stimulate the flow of digestive juices and help to digest a meal, but in large amounts have the opposite effect.

    Tea

  1699. Making tea

    1. Always keep tea in a covered conatiner, for if allowed to lie about in an open packet it loses flavour.
    2. Use water freshly drawn from the cold tap, and make the tea as soon as it boils.
    3. Just before the water boils scald the teapot with some of the water. Throw this away.
    4. Put in the tea, allowing tow or more level teaspoons for each ½ pt. (¼ l.) of tea required.
    5. When the water boils, take the teapot to the kettle and pour on the boiling water. Allow to stand for 3-8 minutes before using. A tea with fine leaves needs less time to brew than one with coarse leaves. Stir well before pouring.
    6. Tea is usually served with a little cold milk or cream and sugar to taste, but some people it without milk and with a slice of lemon or orange in it. Tea without milk should be weaker.
  1700. Coffee

  1701. General information

    1. Always keep coffee in an airtight container, as the flavour is volatile and the coffee quickly loses its flavour if left in an open packet or tin. Freshly roasted and ground coffee gives the best flavour, and the ideal is to have a small home coffee-grinder and grind the beans yourself as you want them. You can then buy small amounts of freshly roasted beans and keep them in a covered jar.
    2. Allow 2-4 level Tbs. coffee for each ½ pt. water (1 c.) being used. This will give you 3 small coffee cups full. The mistake most people make is to make too little coffee.
    3. A better flavour is obtaineed if glass, earthenware, or stainless steel is used for the coffee brewer.
    4. It is important to keep all the equipment clean. Scald all utensils as soon as they have been used, and dry and air them well before putting them away.
    5. Coffee may be served black, or with milk or cream. Many people serve a mixture of half coffee and half milk. In this case the coffee should be made twice as strong as usual. (The milk should not be allowed to boil, only scalded.) Coffee lovers prefer to use a little cold top milk, eveporated milk or cream in black coffee, about the same amount as you would use for tea.
  1702. Some different methods of making coffee

  1703. There are many different ways of making coffee of varying quality, the difference being mainly one of strength, but also of flavour and clarity of the finished product.

    The method using the simplest apparatus is the jug method, see No. 904, but it is also the one requiring the most attention and handling during making.\ With black coffee made this way, it is necessary to heat the coffee cups to offset the cooling process which starts during straining into the coffee jug. When hot milk is added for white coffee, there is no need to heat the cups. This is the best way to serve coffee made by the jug method.

    For good black coffee it is better to use a coffee making machine of some kind. For really strong, yet economical coffee, a housedold expresso is one of the best. The Cona vacuum-type glass coffee-maker makes excellent coffee and can be obtained with a portable electric base so that coffee can be made at table, or it can be used on the cooker, or over a spirit lamp. There are many types of coffee-makers using the filter principle and they, too, make excellent coffee, though some of them are quite complicated wo use.

    When you buy a coffee-maker, make sure you get a copy of the instructions for using it correctly.

  1704. Using a jug

  1705. Coarsely ground coffee is the best for this method, as the finer grinds tend to make a muddy and bitter brew. Measure the coffee into the jug (2-4 Tbs. to ½ pt. or 1 c.). Pour on the boiling water. Stir and stand in a warm place, or in a pan of boiling water for 5-8 minutes. Strain through muslin into the heated coffee-pot and serve.
  1706. Iced coffee

  1707. Sweeten the coffee to taste and chill. Serve with top milk or cream or ice-cream. An alternative method is to add coffee essence to chilled milk and flavour with a few drops of vanilla essence.

    Cocoa

  1708. Making cocoa

  1709. For each ½ pt. (1 c.) allow 2 tebel tsp. cocoa, one of sugar and a pinch of salt. The liquid may be all milk or half milk and half water. Mix the cocoa, sugar and salt to a smooth paste with some cold liquid. Boil the rest and pour on to the cocoa. Return to the pan and boil 1-2 minutes to cook the cocoa and improve the flavour. At this stage the cocoa may be beaten with a small egg whisk to make it frothy and a few drops of vanilla added. If dried milk is being used, the powder may be mixed dry with the cocoa and sugar.

    Soft drinks

  1710. Lemonade

  1711. Quantities for 4-6 glasses:

    4 lemons2 pt. boiling water (4 c.)
    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)

    Measures level. Peel the lemons thinly and put the rind in a jug with the sugar. Pour over the boiling water and stir until the sugar dissolves. Leave until cold. Strain and add the lemon juice. Serve with ice.

  1712. Grape juice lemonade

  1713. Quantities for 4-6 glasses:

    8 Tbs. lemon juice4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.) or to taste
    1 pt. water (2 c.)Ice cubes
    1 pt. grape juice (2 c.)

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together, stirring to dissolve the sugar. This can be chilled and then diluted to taste with ice-water or, after mixing, serve it with ice cubes. This is also very good when mixed with sweetened grapefruit juice.

  1714. Ginger ale lemonade

  1715. Quantities for 3 glasses:

    ⅔ c. lemon juice2 oz. sugar (4 Tbs.)
    1 c. canned or fresh orange juice2 bottles ginger ale

    Mix the fruit-juice and sugar and chill. Just before serving add the ginger ale and serve with crushed ice.

  1716. Fruit punch

  1717. Quantities for 25 glasses:

    2 lb. sugar (4 c.)8 oz. stoned cherries (250 g.)
    2 qt. water (8 c.)1 qt. ginger ale (4 c.)
    12 oranges1 pt. cold, clear tea (2 c.)
    6 lemons2 qt. soda water (8 c.)
    4 sliced bananas8 oz. small green grapes (250 g.)

    Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes. Add 6 oranges peeled and cut in thin slices, removing as much white pith as possible. Add the strained juice of the rest of the oranges and the lemons. Add the bananas, grapes, and cherries. Chill thoroughly. Add the ginger ale, tea and soda water. Just before serving add cubes of ice.

  1718. Orangeade

  1719. Quantities for 4-6 glasses:

    3 small oranges2 pt. boiling water (4 c.)
    2 Tbs. sugar

    Make in the same way as lemonade, No. 907, using the orange rind grated.

  1720. Orange julep

  1721. Quantities for 8-10 glasses:

    1 pt. unsweetened canned orange juice (2 c.)2 Tbs. chopped mint
    ¼ pt. lime juice cordial (½ c.)Soda water
    2 oz. caster sugar (4 Tbs.)Mint and orange slices to garnish

    Measures level. Mix the orange juice, lime cordial and sugar and stir to dissolve. Add the chopped mint and chill for an hour. Strain and dilute half and half, or to taste, with soda water. Ice cubes are an optional extra. Decorate with a sprig of fresh mint and a slice of fresh orange.

  1722. Tomato-juice cocktail

  1723. Quantities for 4-6 glasses:

    ½ tp. tomato juice (1 c.)1 tsp. grated or finely chopped onion
    1 Tbs. vinegar¼ tsp. celery salt
    1 Tbs. lemon juice½ tsp. Worcester sauce
    2 tsp. sugar¼ bay leaf

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Strain through muslin or a fine strainer and chill. Serve in smal glasses.

  1724. Rhubarb sorbet

  1725. 1 lb. rhubarb (500 g.)2 pt. water (6 c.)
    4 oz. raisins or figs, chopped (¾ c.)Canned orange juice or orange or lemon squash

    Measures level. Wash and cut up the rhubarb and put in a pan with the dried fruit and water. Cober and boil gently for & frac12; hour. Strain through muslin and cool. Add the orange juice or squash to taste and serve with ice.

    Egg and milk beverages

  1726. Malted milk

  1727. ½ pt. milk (1 c.)1 Tbs. malt extract

    Heat the milk and stir in the malt extract. Serve hot.

  1728. Milk drinks

  1729. (for children who do not like plain milk).

    ½ pt. milk (1 c.)Colouring
    2 tsp. sugarFlavouring, essence, or fruit syrup

    Mix well. Fruit syrups, or vanailla, are the best to use. Serve cold.

  1730. Milk posset

  1731. ½ pt. milk (1 c.)½-1 Tbs. syrup or honey

    Heat the milk and stir in the syrup or honey. Serve hot.

  1732. Hawaiian egg nog

  1733. Quantities for 1 glass:

    1 eggPinch of nutmeg
    Pinch of salt¼ pt. canned pineapple juice (½ c.)

    Separate the while and the yolk. Beat the yolk well and mix in the cold juice. Stir in the stiffly beaten egg white and salt and pour into a deep glass. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

  1734. Egg nog

  1735. 1 fresh eggFew grains salt
    1-2 tsp. sugarVanilla essence to taste
    ½ pt. cold milk (1 c.)

    Beat the egg and sugar very thouroughly and then pour on the milk. Flavour to taste adding a little grated nutmeg if liked, and 2 Tbs. shery

    Alcoholic beverages

  1736. Cherry gin

  1737. 1 lb. morello cherries (500 g.)12 almonds
    ½ lb. caster sugar (1 c.)1 bottle gin

    Put the fruit in screw-top jars in layers with the sugar. Screw down and shake occasionally for 3 days. Add the blanched almonds and the gin and leave for at least 3 months before decanting. Stone the cherries and add them to fruit salad.

  1738. Sloe gin

  1739. 1 c. sloes2 drops almond essence
    6 oz. sugar (¾ c.)1 bottle gin

    Wash the sloes and prick them with a darning needle. Put them in an empty gin bottle. Add the sugar and almond essence. Pour in the gin and cork well. Leave for at least 3 months before decanting. Stone the sloes and use them in fruit salad.

  1740. Jamaican long drink

  1741. Put 2-3 Tbs. rum in each tumbler. Fill up with ginger ale, cider, or fruit squash and soda water. Add a lump of ice.
  1742. Vermouth long drink

  1743. About a quarter fill tumblers with French or Italian Vermouth. Fill up with iced water or soda-water and add a slice of lemon and a sprig of mint. Add a lump of ice.
  1744. Martini

  1745. Mix half gin and hal French or Italian Vermouth.
  1746. Grog

  1747. Put a slice of lemon in a small tumbler with 1 tsp. sugar. Put in a spoon to absorb the heat and prevent the glass from cracking and then three-quarters fill with boiling water. Stir and add 2 Tbs. rum and serve at once.
  1748. Rum cocktail

  1749. ⅓ rum⅓ orange squash
    ⅓ cider

    Mix well

  1750. Claret cup

  1751. 2 tsp. mixed spice½ pt. water (1 c.)
    1 bottle claretRind ½ lemon
    1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)

    Measures level. Mix all except the lemon and stir until the sugar dissolves. Peel the lemon rind very thinly and add to the cup. Chill before serving.

  1752. Hock cup

  1753. 1 oz. sugar (2 Tbs.)1 small glass sherry
    ¼ pt. boiling water (½ c.)1 bottle hock or Chablis
    Rind ½ lemon

    Measures level. Peel the lemon rind thinly and put it in a jug with the sugar and water. Allow to infuse for 15 minutes. Add the sherry, ½ pt. cold water (1 c.), and the hock or Chablis. Stand for 30 minutes and then chill before serving.

    Chapter 21 - Ice-cream and frozen puddings

  1754. Food value

  1755. The food value varies with the ingredients. Ice-cream is usually made with fat, oil or cream and milk, sugar, perhaps egg, as well as flavouring and sometimes fruit. All ices are s source of calories and will usually contribute a small amount of protein, minerals and vitamins as well.

    Ice-cream made under hygenic conditions is an excellent food, but, if made and handled under dirty conditions, can be a cause of food poisoning.

  1756. General information

  1757. Many people do not think it is worth while making their own ice-cream, preferring to use the commercial product or ready-mix. While these are very good and can be varied by different methods of service with sauces, fruit, cake and pies, it is pleasant to have a change and make your own sometimes. Ices are very easy to make and can be stored in the ice0making compartment of the refrigerator for a day or so, longer in the freezer. Most ices are improved by quick freezing and it is usual to the control to the coldest number. An ice-cream should take 2-3 hours to freeze and the richer the mixture the colder the refrigerator should be. Freezing a plain mixture too fast and too hard can make it coarse and full of ice crystals. To avoid freezing too hard, turn the control back from quick freezing before the ice is frozen in the centre. Beating and stirring help to make a smooth ice-cream. Some mixtures are beaten well before freezing, others are beaten or stirred during freezing.

    A high fat content, such as is given by the use of cream, helps to make a smooth ice-cream. Cream made in a cream machine is suitable and evaporated milk may be used, but does not give quite such a smooth texture as the other two. Half cream and half evaporated milk is a good mixture.

  1758. Evaporated milk in place of cream

  1759. Use less of the evaporated milk than you would of cream, ½-⅔ the amount. Chill the milk in a refrigerator or cold larder. Whip in the same way as for cream. Evaporated milk increases the amount of protein in the ice-cream and decreases the amount of fat.
  1760. Chocolate ice-cream

  1761. Quantities for 6-8 helpings:

    2 oz. plain chocolate (50 g.)1 oz, sifted icing sugar (¼ c.)
    ¼ pt. evaporated milk (½ c.)½ tsp. vanilla
    ¼ pt. whipping cream (½ c.)1 egg white

    Measures level. Melt the chocolate over hot water and add 2 Tbs. evaporated milk. Stir and warm until well blended. Whip the rest of the milk until thick and light and and beat in the chocolate mixture. Rinse the beaters and whip the cream. Add the sugar and vanilla and combine with the chocolate mixture. Rinse the beaters and whip the egg white stiff. Fold this into the other mixture. Put in freezing trays and freeze without stirring.

  1762. Mocha ice-cream

  1763. Use recipe No. 932 and add 1 Tbs. soluble coffee to the warm chocolate and evaporated milk mixture.
  1764. Vanilla mousse

  1765. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    ½ pt. cream, whipped (1 c.)½ tsp. vanilla
    1 oz. sifted icing sugar (¼ c.)1 egg white

    Measures level. Add the sugar and vanilla to the cream. Fold in the egg white beaten stiffly, with a pinch of salt. Pour in the freezing-trays and freeze without stirring. Serve plain or as a basis for sundaes.

  1766. Peppermint ice-cream

  1767. Make as No. 934, flavouring with peppermint essence and colouring pale green. Serve with chocolate sauce, No. 99.
  1768. Fruit mousse

  1769. (Using cream or evaporated milk)

    Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    1 tap. gelatine3-4 oz. sugar (6-8 Tbs.)
    1 Tbs. cold water1 c. cream or ⅔ c. evaporated milk
    ½ pt. fruit pureé, No. 602 (1 c.)

    Measures level. Soak the gelatine in the water for 5 minutes and then heat over hot water to dissolve it. Add to the fruit and sugar. Leave until cold. Then beat well and fold int the whipped cream or milk. Pour into the trays and freeze without stirring. The best fruits to use are raspberry, loganberry, strawberry, damsons, apricots, peaches, pineapple and rhubarb.

  1770. Coffee ice-cream

  1771. Quantities for 6-8 helpings:

    ¼ pt. evaporated milk (½ c.)¼ pt. whipping cream (½ c.)
    1 Tbs. soluble coffee1 Tbs. tum (optional)
    1 oz. icing sugar (¼ c.)

    Measures level. Mix the coffee and the sugar with a little of the milk until dissolved. Whip the rest of the milk and the cream separately. Combine and add the coffee mixture. Blend well and add the rum. Pour into freezing trays and freeze without stirring.

  1772. Orange parfait

  1773. Quantities for 4 or more helpings:

    ¼ pt. orange juice (½ c.)3 egg yolks
    4 oz. caster sugar (½ c.)¼ pt. whipping cream (½ c.)
    Pinch salt

    Measures level. heat the orange juice, sugar and salt in the top of a double boiler or in a basin over a pan of boiling water. Stir until the sugar dissolves and then add the egg yolks beaten until thick and lemon-coloured. Continue beating over hot water unti the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat and stand the pan or basin containing the mixture in a bowl of cold water. Whisk as it cools. Whip the creap until light but not stiff, and fold it into the cold orange mixture. Pour into freezing trays and freeze without stirring.

  1774. Meringue glacé

  1775. Join two meringues together with vanilla ice or chocolate ice. Serve with chopped fresh fruit.
  1776. Chocolate ice-cream cake

  1777. Sanwich two slices of sponge cake with a portion of vanilla ice-cream. Pour chocolate sauce over and sprinkle with chopped nuts.
  1778. Cherry coupe

  1779. Put vanilla ice-cream at the bottom of glasses and cover with a layer of cold stewed cherries. Decorate with cream or mock cream, coloured pink with sieved raspbery jam.
  1780. Raspberry sorbet

  1781. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 oz. sugar (½ c.)¼ pt. raspberry purée (½ c.)
    ½ pt. water (1 c.)1 egg white
    1 tsp. gelatine1 Tbs. lemon juice

    Measures level. Mix sugar and water in a small pan, stir until boiling and boil 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the gelatine and stir until dissolved. Cool.

    Fresh or thawed frozen raspberries can be used to make the purée. Add purée and lemon juice to the cooled syrup. Pour into a tray and freeze to a mush. Beat the egg white stiff. Put the frozen ice in a bowl and beat smooth. Fold in the egg white. Finish freezing. It should be softish when served and will keep several days in the ice compartment of a refrigerator.

  1782. Lemon sorbet

  1783. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    3 strips yellow lemon rind1 tsp. gelatine
    ½ pt. water (1 c.)¼ pt. lemon juice (½ c.)
    3 oz, sugar (6 Tbs.)1 egg white, beaten
    2 Tbs. golden syrup or honey

    Measures level. Heat lemon rind and water until boiling. Strain, add the sugar to the water and boil for 5 minutes. Add the syrup or honey and gelatine and stir until dissolved. Cool. Add the lemon juice and pour into freezing trays. Freeze to a mush. Beat the egg white until stiff. Remove the frozen mixture to a bowl and beat smooth. Fold in the egg, return to the trays and freeze. This should be softish when served and will keep several days in the ice compartment of a refrigerator.

  1784. Mocha refrigerator cake

  1785. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)4 sponge cakes or half recipe Nos. 756-7
    2 oz. caster sugar (¼ c.)Whipped cream
    3 egg yolks3 Tbs. chopped almonds
    1 Tbs. soluble coffee in 4 Tbs. water

    Measures level. Cream the butter and sugar until very white and light. Beat in the egg yolks and coffee. Slice the sponge thinly, and put the sponge and coffee mixture in layers in a 6-inch (15 cm.) cake-tin or soufflé-dish, beginning and ending with cake. Cover and put in the regrigerator for 12 hours. Turn out of the mould and ice with whipped cream and sprinkle with nuts. Cut in wedges and serve as a cake or cold sweet.

  1786. Lemon refrigerator cake

  1787. Quantities for 8 helpings:

    4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)6-8 small sponge cakes
    6 oz. caster sugar (¾ c.)Whipped cream or chocolate sauce, No. 99
    3 eggsRind and juice of 1 lemon

    Measures level. Cream the butter and sugar until very white and light. Beat in the egg yolks, grated rind and the juice of the lemon. Fold in stiffly-beaten egg whites. Split the sponge cakes into 2 or 3 layers, and line an oblong tin or pie-dish with some of them. Fill with alternate layers of sponge and lemon mixture, finishing with sponge. Cover and chill for 12-24 hours. Turn out and cut in slices. Serve with cream or hot chocolate sauce.

    Chapter 22 - Hors-d'œuvre and savouries

  1788. Food value

  1789. Hors-d'œuvre are meant to be appertisers at the beginning of a meal and their nutritional value is comparatively unimportant. They should be well seasoned, colourful and attractively served in small portions.

    Today, savouries are most commonly served as party food, chiefly at buffet parties, but are still sometimes included in dinner menus. In either case they should small, attractive to look at, and well flavoured. For a buffer party they should be easy to pick up in the fingers.

  1790. General information

  1791. Although in the home it is not practical to serve the restaurant type of hors-d'œuvre of a dozen or more different foods, yet a small one of four or five dishes is easily prepared, ann is a useful and pleasant beginning to a meal. Hors-d;œuvre are generally served in place of soup, and if you have no suitable small dishes for serving the foods separately, a selection can be arranged attractively on individual plates ready for each person.

    Only small amounts of each kind of food should be served, and they should be well seasoned. The range of suitable foods is almost unlimited, but the following are a few suggestions using foods which are generally available.

  1792. Anchovies

  1793. Anchovy fillets are sold ready for use, and may be served as they are with a little chopped parsley sprinkled over, or used to decorate potato or cauliflower salad, or served on a bed of shredded lettuce.
  1794. Asparagus tips

  1795. Cooked or canned asparagus is served with French dressing, No. 118.
  1796. Beans

  1797. (Butter or haricot)

    Use canned beans, or boiled as described in No. 550, drained and served cold with vinaigrette sauce, No. 119.

  1798. Beetroot

  1799. This is boiled in the usual way and served cold. It may be sliced and dressed with salt, pepper, and vinegar, or made into the following pickle. Cut 2 medium-sized beetroot into dice and mix with 3 Tbs. grated horse-radish and 6 pepper-corns. Cover with cold vinegar and store the jars for 2 or 3 weeks before using.
  1800. Bloaters

  1801. Soak the fish in equal parts of milk and water for 2 hours. Remove the heads, and skin and fillet the fish. Cut in this strips and serve raw.
  1802. Cauliflower

  1803. Boil the cauliflower in small sprigs as in No. 464. Allow to cool, and dress with French dressing, No. 118, or mayonnaise, No. 113. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or decorate with anchovy fillets.
  1804. Celery

  1805. Cut in slices and serve raw, with French dressing, No. 118;

    Cucumber

    See cucumber salad, No. 561.

    Curried salad

    See No. 577.
  1806. Eel (smoked)

  1807. Cut in thin slices and serve without cooking. Sprinkle with lemon juice or vinegar and freshly ground pepper.
  1808. Eggs (hard-boiled)

  1809. Cut in halves and mask with mayonnaise, No. 113, or stuff as in No. 188.

    Fish mousse

    See No. 286.
  1810. French beans

  1811. Slice and boil in a little water, as in No. 427. Serve cold wih French dressing, No. 119.
  1812. Herrings

  1813. Soak 2 salt herrings or bloaters in cold water for 12 hours. Drain and fillet, cutting the fillets in ½-inch (1 cm.) strips diagonally. Put in a shallow dish and sprinkle 2 Tbs. chopped onion, a pinch of pepper, and 1 Tbs. brown sugar. Pour over 3-4 Tbs. vinegar or enough to cover and allow to stand 5-6 hours before serving.
  1814. Kipper paté

  1815. Quantities for 4 or more helpings:

    ¾ lb. kippers (375 g.) or 6 oz. fillets (175 g.)½ tsp. anchovy essence
    4 oz. butter or margarine (125 g.)Pepper
    Lemon juice

    Grill the kippers or put them in a large jug, pour boiling water over them, cover and stand in a warm place for 5-10 minutes. Drain the fish and allow to become cold. Remove bones and skin. Warm the butter to soften but not melt. Add it to the kippers with anchovy and seasoning. Rub the mixture through a sieve or mix in a blender to make smooth. Put in a dish and chill. Serve with thin toast.

  1816. Leeks

  1817. Cut in half and boil in a little water, as in No. 484. Drain well and serve cold with vinaigrette sauce, No. 119.
  1818. Canned mussels or oysters

  1819. Serve with vinegar or lemon and chopped parsley.

    Potato salad

    See No. 565.
  1820. Prawns and shrimps

  1821. Shell as described in No. 307, and serve cold, decorated with parsley and lemon.
  1822. Radishes

  1823. Wash well and cut off the roots. Trim the tops but retain about 2 inches (5 cm.) of the leaves to hold them by. If put in a small dish with iced water they keep crisp during service.
  1824. Red cabbage

  1825. Serve pickled red cabbage sprinkled with grated horse-radish.
  1826. Sardines

  1827. Serve whole, decorated with parsley and lemon.
  1828. Smoked salmon

  1829. Serve in very thin slices with lemon and cayenne pepper.
  1830. Tomato salad

  1831. Slice tomatoes thinly and serve with French dressing, No. 118. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or fresh tarragon.
  1832. Hard-boiled egg salad

  1833. 3 hard-boiled eggs2 Tbs. olive oil
    ½ tsp. salt1 Tbs. chopped spring onions
    Pinch of pepper1 Tbs wine vinegar

    Measures level. Cut the eggs in half and remove the yolks. Mash them in a small bowl with the salt and pepper. Work in the vinegar and oil and beat well. Add the chopped whites and onions and pile in a glass dish. Decorate with parsley.

  1834. Fish cocktail

  1835. Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

    ¼ pt. tomato ketchup (½ c.)¼ pt. thick cream (½ c.)
    1 tsp. Worcestershire sauceAbout ½ pt. flaked cooked fish or shell-fish
    1 Tbs. horse-radish sauce4-6 lettuce leaves
    ½ tsp. lemon-juiceChopped parsley or other herbs
    ¼ tsp. dried mustard

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients except the fish and lettuce. When well blended add the fish and mix gently. Arrange the shredded lettuce in deep individual glasses, or bowls and place the fish mixture on top. Decorate with chopped parsley or other herbs.

  1836. Shrimp and orange cocktail

  1837. Quantities for 4 helpings:

    2 large orangesMayonnaise sauce, No. 113
    4 oz. shelled shrimps (125 g.)Shredded lettuce
    1 Tbs. chopped cucumber or gherkin

    Peel the oranges and remove all pith, pips and membrane. Mix the pulp with the shrimps and cucumber and enough mayonnaise to moisten. Put some lettuce in the bottom of 4 large glasses, add the fish mixture and chill.

  1838. Liver paté or terrine

  1839. Cooking time 1 hour.

    Temperature 350° F. (180° C.) Mark 4.

    Quantities for 4-5 helpings:

    8 oz. calf or lamb's liver (250 g.)¼ tsp. ground mace or nutmeg
    6 oz. fat bacon pieces (150 g.)4 oz. thinly sliced streaky bacon
    Pepper

    Measures level. Remove rind from the bacon and mince fat bacon and liver together twice. If a very fine paté is required, put the liver and bacon through an electric blender or a sieve. Add pepper to taste and mace or nutmeg. Mix very thoroughly. Line a small cake or loaf tin with streaky bacon and pack in the liver mixture. Cover with greased paper or aluminium foil and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour. Leave in the tin to cool. Turn out and slice.

  1840. Potato and egg salad

  1841. 8 oz. potatoes (250 g.)1 Tbs. wine vinegar
    2 eggs, hard-boiled2 Tbs. olive oil
    ½ tsp. salt1 Tbs. chopped onion
    Pinch of pepper2 Tbs. chopped gherkin

    Measures level. New potatoes or waxy old ones are the best. Scrub and boil them in their kackets. Peel and cool. Shell the eggs and separate the whites and yolks. Mash the yolks in a basin and add salt and pepper, vinegar and oil. Beat well and add the onion and gherkins. Slice the potatoes or cut in small cubes. Add the chopped whites and pour over the dressing. Mix well.

  1842. Tomatoes and sweet peppers

  1843. 8 oz. tomatoes (250 g.)Pinch of pepper
    2 canned or cooked sweet peppers½ Tbs. wine vinegar
    1 small onion, chopped1 Tbs. olive oil
    ½ tsp. salt1 Tbs. chopped parsley

    Measures level. Slice the tomatoes. Remove the seeds, peel and slice the peppers. Put in a dish with onions. Mix the seasoning, vinegar, and oil and pour over. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

  1844. Tongue or beed salad

  1845. Cut cold, cooked tongue or beef in very thin, small slices. Pour over French dressing, No. 118, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

    Tongue salad

    See No. 579.
  1846. Sardine butter

  1847. Mash the sardines, including the skin and bone. Beat in an equal weight of softened margarine or butter. Beat until quite smooth, seasoning highly with salt and pepper. Press into a small glass dish and serve very cold with thin, crisp toast.
  1848. Cold sausage

  1849. (Mortadella, salami etc.)

    Remove any skin and cut in very thin slices. Arrange in a shallow dish and decorate with parsley or radishes.

  1850. Olives

  1851. (black, purple, or green)

    Drain from the pickling liquid and serve in a small glass dish.

  1852. Smoked sprats

  1853. Serve with lemon juice and brown bread-and-butter.

    Soused herrings

    See No. 256.
  1854. Celery and blue cheese mayonnaise

  1855. 1 Tbs. blue cheeseBlack pepper
    ½ Tbs. cream1 c. chopped celery
    ¼ pt. mayonnaise, No. 113 (½ c.)

    Measures level. Mash the cheese and cream together until very smooth. Add the mayonnaise and season highly with pepper. Mix with the chopped celery.

  1856. Sweet pickled cherries

  1857. 4 lb. Morello cherries (2 kg.)3-inch (8 cm.) stick of cinnamon
    1 pt. vinegar (2 c.)4 pieces root ginger
    2 lb. brown or white sugar (1 kg.)6 cloves

    Measures level. Stone the cherries or split the skin to allow the syrup to penetrate. Boil the other ingredients for 10 minutes with the lid on the pan. Remove the spices and add the cherries. Simmer for 5 minutes. Drain from the liquid and pack loosely into warm jars. Boil the liquid until syrupy and pour over the cherries. Seal down while hot and keep for at least a few weeks before using. They will keep at least 12 months and will improve with keeping.

  1858. Marinaded trout

  1859. Use small trout about the size of herrings. Clean and remove the fins, but leave the heads on. Poach as described in No. 237, using ⅓ vinegar and ⅔ water. Allow to cool in the liquid. Garnish with a slice of lemon.
  1860. Marinade of cold fish

  1861. Quantities for 4-5 helpings:

    1 lb. cold boiled or fried fish (500 g.)1 slice lemon
    ½ pt. wine vinegar and water mixed (1 c.)1-2 bay leaves
    3 Tbs. salad oil4 cloves
    Few slices of onion8 peppercorns
    Salt and pepper

    Divide the fish into convenient pieces for serving. If fried fish is used it is nicer if coated in milk and flour than in batter. Arrange the fish in a wide shallow dish. Mix the remaining ingredients and pour over the fish. Leave to marinade for 1-2 hours, turning occasionally. Arrange the fish on a serving dish. Strain the liquor and serve as a sauce.

  1862. Melon

  1863. Serve slices of ice-cold melon, and hand separately some caster sugar or ground ginger or both.
  1864. Pickled eggs

  1865. 1 doz. eggs1 Tbs. allspice
    1 qt. vinegar (4 c.)4 pieces whole root ginger
    2 tsp. black peppercorns

    Hard-boil the eggs and shell them. Boil the other ingredients together for ½ hour. Add the eggs and boild gently for 10 minutes. Put the eggs in a jar and pour the vinegar and spices over. Cover and store in a cool place. They will be ready to use in 4 days, but will keep several weeks.

    Savouries

  1866. Cheese straws

  1867. Cooking time 5-7 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.

    2 oz, plain flour (6 Tbs.)3 oz. grated cheese (75 g.)
    Pinch of salt1 egg yolk
    Few grains of cayenne pepper2 oz. butter or margarine (50 g.)

    Measures level. Sift the flour and seasonings together and rub in the fat. Add the cheese using some Parmesan. Mix to a stiff dough with the egg yolk, adding a little cold water if it is needed. Roll out to about ⅛ inch (3 mm.) and cut in very narrow strips. Cut some rounds with a 2-inch (4 cm.) cutter and stamp out the centres with a 1½-1¾-inch (4 cm.) cutter, to give rings. Place on baking trays and cook in a hot oven, watching them carefully as they burn very easily. To serve, put bundles of the straws through the rings. Serve hot.

  1868. Cheese bonbons

  1869. Cooking time 10 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.

    Flaky pastry, No. 808 using 4 oz. flour (⅔ c.)½ tsp. salt
    ½ cottage cheeseFew grains cayenne pepper
    1 Tbs. bottled tomato sauce24 walnut halves

    Measures level. Roll the pastry about ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick and cut in rounds with a 1-inch (2 cm.) cutter. Bake in a hot oven until lightly browned. Mash the cheese and mix to a smooth paste with the other ingredients. Put a little on top of each round and press a walnut half on top.

  1870. Angels on horseback

  1871. Trim the rind from thin slices of streaky bacon. Wrap an oyster or mussel (fresh or canned) in each slice of bacon, and secure with a tooth-pick or thread several on a skewer. Grill or back in a hot oven until the bacon is crisp. Serve on rounds of toast with tomato sauce, No. 89, or plain.
  1872. Soft roe and mushroom canapés

  1873. Dip soft roes in seasoned flour and fry them for a few minutes in a little butter or margarine. Fry some chopped mushrooms separately. Prepare some small rounds of hot buttered toast. Place one soft roe on each with chopped mushrooms on top. Serve at once.
  1874. Sardine rolls

  1875. Cooking time 15-20 minutes

    Allow 1 sardine per roll.

    4 oz. flour (¾ c.) made into flaky pastry, No. 808, will make 12 rolls.

    Roll the pastry to ⅛ inch (3 mm.) and cut in strips the width of the sardines. Sprinkle the fish with lemon juice or grated cheese or curry powder and roll each in pastry in the same way as for sausage rolls. Brush with egg and bake until brown. Serve hot.

  1876. Toasted prunes in bacon

  1877. 10 large prunes10 rashers streaky bacon

    Soak the prunes in cold water until soft. Remove the stones. Roll each prune in a strip of bacon and thread the riolls on skewers or fasten with tooth-picks. grill or bake in ahot oven until the bacon is crisp. Serve hot.

  1878. Egg creams

  1879. Cooking time 5-8 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.

    Flaky pastry, No. 808 using 4 oz. flour (⅔ c.)1 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
    4 olives2 Tbs. thick cream
    1 hard-boiled eggsSalt, pepper and mustard to taste

    Measures level. Roll the pastry to ⅛ inch (3 mm.) thick and cut in very small rounds with a fluted cutter. Prick well with a fork and bake in a hot oven until light brown. Chop the olives finely and rub the eggs through a sieve. Mix all the engredients together and season highly. When the pastry is cold sandwich together with the filling.

  1880. Cheese and anchovy toast

  1881. 2-3 slices toast1 tsp. vinegar
    ½ c. grated cheeseFew drops anchovy essence
    ½ tsp. dry mustard

    Measures level. Mix all the ingredients to a smooth paste and spread on hot toast. Cut in fingers and serve hot.

  1882. Cheese biscuits with anchovy

  1883. Cheese straw recipe, No. 9851 Tbs.hopped parsley
    2 hard-boiled eggsAnchovy essence to taste
    1 oz. butter or margarine (25 g.)Few grains of cayenne pepper

    Measures level. Cut the chees-straw mixture into small biscuits with a fluted cutter and bake in the usual way. Sieve or mash the eggs with the other ingredients, seasoning to taste. Sandwich the biscuits together in pairs with the mixture. Heat in the oven before serving.

  1884. Cheese puffs

  1885. Cooking time 20-25 minutes

    Temperature 450° F. (230° C.) Mark 8.

    Flaky pastry, No. 808 using 4 oz. flour (⅔ c.) or puff pastry No. 8092 oz. grated Parmesan cheese (50 g.)
    1 egg whitePinch of salt
    Pinch of cayenne pepper

    Measures level. Roll the pastry to ⅛ inch (3 mm.) and cut in small rounds. Brush with stiffly-beaten egg white and sprinkle three-quarters of the number with cheese and seasoning. Put these together and top with a plain one, so that each puff consists of three layers of pastry. Bake in a hot oven until lightly browned and cooked through. Serve hot.

  1886. Salted almonds

  1887. Blanch the almons by pouring on boiling water. Leave for a few minutes and the plunge into cold water. Squeeze gently to removed the skins. Dry on a clean cloth. Fry golden brown in butter or olive oil turning frequently; or bake in a moderate oven with butter, turning frequently. Drain on absorbent paper and sprinkle with salt and cayenne papper while they are still hot. Serve cold.

    Chapter 23 - Planning and preparing meals

  1888. General information

  1889. Our boddies cannot get the materials to keep them in good working order from elsewhere except the food eaten. Thus by wise choice of diet we have the power to influence our state of health.

    One of the most noticeable and widespread misuses of this power is seen in the large numbers of children and adults who are over-weight and in the degenerative diseases that so often follow untreated obesity.

    Today we have a very wide choice of food in the shops and the majority of people have enough money to indulge their personal tastes; but a lot of what you fancy does not necessarily do you good, whether it is 'gourmet' food or 'nosh'. This is where some knowledge of the science of nutrition can help to avoid serious mistakes in meal planning.

    But in meal planning the nutritive value of the food is not the only thing to be considered. Other important factors are palatability, digestibility, cost and the time and labour required to prepare the meals.

    Nutritive value

    I have already given brief notes on the nutritive value of individual foods in each chapter under the heading Food Value.

    Food is made up of complex chemical substances called nutrients. These are:

    PROTEIN, the most important nutrient in the structure of the body, important to everyone, but most of all to the growing body of the foetus, child and adolescent. Protein is found in cheese, milk, eggs, meat, fish, peas, beans, cereals and nuts.

    MINERALS are also important in the structure of the body. Calcium and phosphorus help to give strength to bones and teeth. Other minerals have different roles, such as the iron in blood, the fluorine in tooth enamel, the iodine in the thyroid gland, and others too numerous to list here. Calcium is found particularly in milk, cheese, fish, green vegetables and bread; phosphorous is present in most foods; iron-rich foods are liver, heart, kidney, beef, eggs, green vegetables, bread, cocoa, chocolate and dried fruit. The most important source of fluorine is drinking water; iodised salt and salt-water fish are the most reliable sources of iodine.

    VITAMINS are substances present in very small amounts in foods but they play a vital role in regulating all body processes, including growth in children. A diet which includes the protein-rich foods and butter or margarine, green vegetables and fresh fruit will provide most of the necessary vitamins. It might, however, be lacking in vitamin D which is why cod-liver oil or vitamin tablets are prescribed for expectant mothers and babies.

    FATS include solid fats and oils. These are a concentrated source of energy, measured as calories. Some fats such as butter and margarine, cod-liver oil and halibut-liver oil also contain vitamins A and D and for this reason are the most valuable ones in this group.

    CARBOHYDRATES are the starches and sugars, important as a cheap and popular source of calories. They include sugar of all kinds, cereals, bread and flour (and other things made with flour), and potatoes. The best sources of carbohydrates to eat are the foods which contain other nutrients as well. Chief among these are bread and potatoes, which between them contributes some of all the nutrients except vitamins A and D which can be got by spread the bread with butter or margarine. No sugary foods have the same all-round good nutritive value as bread and potatoes.

    By looking back over the list of nutrients it will be clear that a good diet will include: cheese, milk, eggs, meat, fish, peas, beans, green vegetables, fresh fruit, bread, potatoes, butter or margaine, drinking water containing fluorine, iodized salt, and cod-liver oil or alternative for the vulnerable groups such as expectant mothers and young children.

    The most practical method I have found for planning meals which include the necessary foods is given in the Menu Planning Guide. If you follow this as closely as possible you will be including all the foods needed to keep the family in good health. It is suitable for adults and all except very small children, who have their own special requirements.

    Menu Planning Guide

    Foods to include for each person every day.

    FoodAmountModifications
    Milk1 pt. (½ l.) for adults. 1½ pt. (1 i.) for children, expectant and nursing mothers, and adolescents. This includes the milk used in cooking.Canned or dried milk for cooking
    Eggs3-5 a week, preferably one a day, including those used in cooking.When eggs are too expensive be sure to use milk liberally, and plenty of the foods containing iron.
    Milk or fish or cheese1 or more helpings a day. 2 oz. (50 g.) cheese replaces an average 4-oz. (125 g.) portion of meat or 5 oz. (150 g.) of fish. Serve liver, heart or kidney once a week Use a little of one of these mixed with dried peas, beans, lentils or milk or eggs.
    PotatoesOnce or twice a day
    VegetablesOne or more servings daily. At least one green and salads often.The cheaper vegetables such as cabbage, swedes and carrots are the most valuable.
    FruitOne or more servings daily, including fresh, bottled, dried and juices. One should be rich in vitamin C, see No. 580. When fruit is scarce or expensive increase the quantities of vegetables and potatoes served.
    Cereals, bread, cakes, pastryTo satisfy the appetite. Serve as much variety as possible. People doing hard work and active children need more of these. People who eat more than they need get fat.
    Butter or margarine1 oz. (25 g.) a day.Fats which do not contain virtamins A and D are not an adequate substitute.
    Cod-liver oil or its equivalentAccording to directions on the bottle.For older children and adults serve oily fish regularly

    N.B. The number and kind of meals taken is a matter of habit and personal preference. The important thing is to include all the essential foods each day.

    Palatability

    This covers the serving of attractive-looking food, good flavouring and cooking, combining food which go well together.

    Combining foods which go well together is learnt by experience, and is very largely a metter of personal taste and habit. The sort of meal most English people enjoy, for example, is very different from that a Chinese family would choose. The important thing is that the meal should contain the foods needed for health, be eaten with pleasure, and easily digested.

    With many recipes I have given suggestions for ways of serving the dishes, such as a sort of sauce or vegetable to choose. I think beginners will mind this helpful as a guide.

    Digestability

    To most people this means a lack of discomfort after a meal. A good meal-plan does not include two foods which are difficult to digest. Chief among these are fried food, pastry, cream and any dish containing a lot of fat or oil, fatty meat, shell-fish, twice -cooked or reheated food and sometimes cheese.

    Most people will take cheese as a main course, while if served as an extra at the end of an already adequate meal, it would cause indigestion. It is more easily digested if served grated, and this is the best way for children. If cheese is cooked it should be done lightly and not allowed to become tough or stringy.

    Very sweet food causes digestive upsets. Children should not be allowed unlimited sweets between meals. They are best at the end of a meal, when they just add to the satisfied feeling without doing harm.

    Fried foods are responsible for more indigestion than any others. This is because a fatty coating prevents the digestive juices from getting to the food proper;y and it stays in the stomach too long, causing a feeling of discomfort. Another reason is that fat is often allowed to smoke and burn during frying, when it produces a substance very irritating to the stomach and intestines. If you are studying your digestion, figure, and complexion you should cut fried foods down to the minimum.

    Cost

    Unfortunately an inexpensive diet generally contains too much sugar and too many buns and cereal foods, because they are cheap and filling. By using the cheaper foods from each group in the Menu Planning Guide it is possible to have a balanced diet which is still inexpensive.

    It is important to try to have the full amounts of milk and vegetables. The cheapest vegetables, potatoes, cabbage and carrots, and the cheapest fish, herrings, are the most valuable nutrionally. Lentils or dried peas or beans served with some egg, milk, or cheese are an excellent meal substitute in food value and can be very tasty. Eggs are usually cheaper than meat, taking 2 eggs as equal to 4 oz. meat in food value.

    Time and labour saving

    For the busy woman the written menu plan is the best way out. A few minutes each week working out the meals for each day will make shopping and catering much easier. Most people find it best to plan from Saturday to Saturday or Friday to Friday. The fact that you probably have to alter the plan as you go along does not make it any less useful. You will be able to make out a list of non perishable foods needed for the week and buy them all at once, leaving only the perisables to get every day. You will find, too, that if you have a plan you can often do some preparation for the next meal or for next day while cooking the current one. A plan leaves you mind free for other things, instead of the eternal worry of what to get for the next meal. The busier you are, the more valuable you will find this method of catering.
  1890. Preparing meals

  1891. (for the beginner)

    One of the most difficult things for the beginner is to organise the preparation and cooking of a meal so as to have everything ready on time.

    The quickest way to learn is to do a little planning on paper first. Write down the dishes with the rough time each will take to cook, according to the recipe. Then write down the time you must be ready to start cooking each one. Be sure to start preparing the ingredients well beforehand, so that you are ready to begin actual cooking on time.

    After doing this a few times it will become almost automatic, and you will be able to do the planning in your head; but I always go back to this menthod for special occasions, such as cooking for a party. There is nothing like a little careful planning beforehand to see you through without worry or fuss.

    When you are very new to cooking, it is always a good plan to have one course cold - e.g. the pudding, which can be prepared in advance. Then you will be able to give all your attention to the main dish. If you are attempting a new or complicated dish, make the rest of the meal simple.

  1892. Recipes suitable for lunch, high-tea or supper

  1893. Whatever the third meal of the day may be called, it does present a problem to many housewives. Far too often the solution is bread, buns, cake and tea, which is not the ideal for most people. If possible serve a protein-rich food of some kind - e.g. fish, cheese, or milk - and a vegetable or salad.

    Below is a list of suggestions for recipes which would be suitable for the main dish of this meal.

    CHEESE DISHES. Cheese pudding, No. 176; macaroni cheese, No. 620; cheese fondue, No. 175; chutneyed cheese, No. 174; welsh rarebit, Nos 171-2; cheese cakes, No. 153; cheese tart, No. 173; quiche Lorraine, No. 178.

    EGG DISHES. As in chapter 10.

    SOUPS. Substantial ones such as fish chowder, No. 58; Mussel soup, No. 54 or 59; chestnut soup, No. 55; cream soups, No. 46; lentil soup, No. 41.

    FISH. Roes, Nos. 317-19; sardines on toast, No. 288; salmon loaf, No. 285; fish au gratin, No. 249; fish pie, No. 248; or any other fish recipe.

    VEGETABLE DISHES. Vegetables au gratin, No. 432; vegetable stew, No. 436; broad beans and bacon, No. 44; beans Béarnaise, No. 448; cabbage and bacon, No. 457; stuffed cabbage leaves, No. 458; chicory with cheese and ham, No. 471; onion toast, No. 497; french peas, No. 502; stuffed sweet peppers, No. 507; baked stuffed potatoes, No. 513; potatoes with cheese, No. 521; potato ragoût, No. 522; stuffed tomatoes, No. 541; salads, Nos. 557-579.

    MISCELLANEOUS. Corned beef hash, No. 422(2); open sanwiches, No. 892; toasted sandwiches, No. 889; risotto, No. 615; meat cakes or rissoles, No. 151; spaghetti and meat sauce, No. 623.

  1894. Recipes for a buffet party

  1895. BEVERAGES. Wine cups, No. 927-8; fruit punch, No. 910; lemonade, Nos. 907-9; tomato-juice cocktail, No. 913; Jamaican long drink, No. 922; vermouth long drink, No. 923; rhubarb sherbet, No. 914; iced coffee, No. 905.

    SAVOURY DISHES. Toasted sandwiches, No. 889; vol-au-vent, No. 810; Welsh rarebit, Nos. 171-2; lobster patties, No. 300; stuffed eggs, No. 188; crab patties, No. 294; filled cheese scones, No. 793 (using sandwich fillings); chutneyed cheese, No. 174; open sandwiches, No. 892; hors-d'œuvre, Nos. 946-84; Swedish meat balls, No. 413; salted almonds, No. 995; savouries, Nos. 985-95.

  1896. Recipes for a children's party

  1897. BEVERAGES. Rhubarb sherbet, No. 914; lemonade, Nos. 907-9; orangeade, No. 911; fruit punch, No. 910;

    SAVOURIES. Plain sandwiches, Nos. 890-91; open sanwiches, No. 892; toasted sandwiches, No. 889; filled cheese scones, No. 793 (using sandwich fillings); watercress; radishes; crisp celery.

    JELLIES AND COLD PUDDINGS. Fruit salad, Nos. 584-8; fruit fool, No. 603; ice-creams, Nos. 932-43; milk jelly squares, No. 707; cream whip, No. 708; orange mousse, No. 709.

    CAKES. Cakes, No. 762; layer cakes, Nos. 741-4; meringues, No. 763; Louise cakes, No. 830; chocolate crispies, No. 787; chocolate layer cake, No. 751; butter sponge, No. 756; sponge roll, No. 761; chocolate biscuits, No. 778; American doughnuts, No. 798; Madeleines, No. 749.

    PASTRY. Sausage rolls, No. 848; jam puffs, No. 810; custard slices, No. 852; fairy tarts, No. 826; éclairs, No. 856; cream puffs, No. 856-7.

    SWEETS. Toffee apples, No. 665; crumb fudge, No. 669; coconut ice, No. 670; Turkish delight, No. 672.

  1898. Suggestions for using up leftovers

  1899. VEGETABLE TRIMMINGS. Vegetable stock, No. 33; mushroom stock, No. 35;

    VEGETABLES. Potato cakes, Nos, 150-53; vegetables au gratin, No. 432; Macedoine of vegetables, No. 437; Brussels sprouts salad, No. 559; cauliflower mayonnaise, No. 560; potato salad, No. 565; Russion salad, No. 566; hors-d'œuvre, Nos. 948-76; potato and egg salad, No. 972; creole potato salad, No. 576.

    FISH. Trimmings for fish stock, No. 34, and fish chowder, No. 58. Cooked fish in: fish cakes, No. 152; fish pie, No. 248; fish au gratin, No. 249; fish fritters, No. 867; fish sandwiches, No. 890 and No. 982; salmon mayonnaise, No. 570; kedgeree, No. 616.

    BACON TRIMMINGS AND RINDS. For flavouring vegetable stock, No. 33, and bone stock, No. 31 and for lentil soup, No. 41, tomato soup, No. 56, tomato sauce, No. 89.

    STALE BREAD. Forcemeats, Nos. 126-35; Melba toast, No. 875; dried crumbs, No. 876; buttered crumbs, No. 876; brown Betty, No. 883; queen of puddings, No. 877; bread puddings, Nos. 878-82.

    SOUR MILK. For mixing scones, cakes and puddings and for cottage cheese, No. 160.

    EGG WHITES. Meringiues, No. 763; langue do chat, No. 785; almond macaroons, No. 786; vanilla mousse, No. 934; Pavlova cake, No. 766; cheese puffs, No. 994; cornflake meringues, No. 767; macaroon tartlets, No. 832; coconut macaroons, No. 790; white mountain icing, No. 689.

    EGG YOLKS. For brushing pastry and scones before baking; scrambled egg, No. 195-200 (adding 1 Tbs. water to each egg yolk, 2 yolks equal 1 egg); custards, Nos. 217-21; zabaglione, No. 229; cheese straws, No. 985.

    MEAT. Reheating, No. 393; cold meat hash, No. 442; fricassée of veal, No. 423; or poultry; plain, open and toasted sandwiches, Nos. 886-92; chicken blanquette, No. 342; creamed rabbit, No. 343; tongue or beef salad, No. 974.

    FRUIT. Fruit fool, No. 603; fruit soufflé, No. 604.

    BOILED RICE. Re-heated and fried, No. 614; kedgeree, No. 616.

    COLD COFFEE. Iced coffee, No. 905.

  1900. Cooking for invalids

    An invalid's diet naturally depends on what the doctor recommends. In some illnesses the patient will be on a special diet, and these suggestions are not intended to cover such cases. They are meant for the invalid whose doctor has prescribed a 'light' diet. In planning this sort of meal the following points need to be considered.

    1. Be very careful to serve foods as attractively as possible, because the appetite generally needs tempting. Small portions look better than large ones. It is much better for the patient to ask for a second helping than to risk taking away his appetite by the sight of too much food on the plate. As far as possible, use small individual dishes, as this helps to make the food look more tempting; for example, set jellies in small moulds or cups. Coloured china, too, helps to make the tray more attractive.
    2. Most invalids need building up. Illness is generally accompanied by wasting of muscle and body tissue, and this has to be replaced by the nutrients in the food. The best foods for building up are milk and eggs, and these should always have a prominent place in invalid cookery. The eggs should always be lightly cooked so that are easy to digest, for example, coddled, see No. 183, or poached or lightly scrambled.
    3. Other good foods for building up are fish, chicken, rabbit, cheese and meat. They, too, should be served in their most easily digested form. Cheese should always be finely grated and, if cooked in a sauce, add the cheese after the sauce has finished cooking, and do not allow it to boil again. Fish should be steamed or poached and meat should be minced, grilled, stewed or roast.
    4. Avoid all indigestible foods, but particularly pastry, any fried foods, highly flavoured and seasoned foods, pickles, spices, new bread, hot scones, hot buttered toast. (Toast should be thin and crisp and buttered cold.)
    5. All invalids need food rich in vitamin C. This vitamin helps them to get well, and especially to heal wounds and broken bones. Blackcurrant syrup, rosehip syrup, orange-juice, tomato-juice, and green vegetables cooked quickly in a little water, see No. 427, all provide a good supply of vitamin C. If the patient is allowed raw fruit and salads, use these as often as possible.
    6. Clear soups and aspic jellies have very little building-up value, but they do stimulate the appetite, and are useful to serve before the main, and most nourishing, course. Soups containing milk are very good for invalids, and sweet jellies are much more valuable foods if they have milk or eggs added.
    7. The following recipes are suitable for most people on a light diet.

      SOUPS. Cream soup, No. 46; consommé, Nos. 62-5.

      BEVERAGES. Lemonade, Nos. 907-9; orangeade, No. 911; egg nog, No. 919; milk posset, No. 917; malted milk, No. 915.

      EGG DISHES. Coddled egg, No. 183; steamed egg, No. 194; poached egg, No. 189; scrambled egg, No. 195; baked custard, No. 217.

      FISH AND MEAT. Boiled fish, No. 237, with parsley sauce, No. 87; steamed fish, No. 246, with parsley sauce, No. 87; creamed cod roes, No. 318; boiled chicken or rabbit, No. 336; creamed chicken or rabbit, No. 343; brains, Nos. 335-9.

      VEGETABLES. Gren vegetables, No. 427; masked potato, No. 511; creamed spinach, No. 533.

      PUDDINGS. Fruit purée, No. 602; fruit fool, No. 603; sago cream, No. 625; creamed semolina, No. 636; cornflour mould, No. 645; cornflour desserts, No. 652; lemon jelly, No. 703; milk jelly, No. 706; cream whip, No. 708; junket, No. 165; queen of puddings, No. 877.

      CAKES. Butter sponge, No. 756; sponge roll, No. 761; Victoria sandwich, No. 742.

      BREAD. Melba toast, No. 875.

  1901. Feeding the overweight

  1902. The chief cause of putting on weight is thought to be eating more food, especially starches and sugars, than the body requires for the energy it expends. Individual needs vary a great deal, which is why, on the same diet, one will stay thin while the other puts on weight.

    Weight can be reduced by dieting if the necessary will-power is exercised. The only danger is that an ill-chosen diet may reduce the weight but at the same time disasterously affect the person's health.

    The simplest and safet way of dieting is the follow the Menu Planning Guide at the beginning of this chapter, but cut down the amounts of potatoes, cereals, bread. All cakes, pastries and sweets should be excluded from the reducing diet. Instead of puddings, serve raw fruit and/or a piece of cheese. Use a non-sugar sweetener for drinks.

Index

Abbreviations used
Afghans
Alcoholic beverages...

Almond

biscuits
and honey filling
macaroon
paste
salted

Aluminium utensils

Anchovy

canned
hors-d'œuvre
sauce
toast and cheese
toast and egg

Angels on horseback
Anzac nutties

Apple

baked
batter
brown Betty
cake, Swedish
and celery sandwich
cinnamon
compote
crisp
crumble
dumplings
flan...
fool
fritters
meringue, baked
and orange salad
and peanut butter sandwich
pie
Preparing
and prune stuffing
pudding, steamed
sauce
soufflé
stuffed, stewed
tart, double
tart, open
toffee

Apricots

compote
dried...
flan
fool
pie
Preparing
soufflé

Arrowroot

desserts...
for cakes
moulds...
Source of

Artichokes

globe
Jerusalem
soup
soup, cream

Aspic jelly

glaze
with stock
without stock

Aubergine
Au gratin

Babas, rum

Bacon

baked
boiled...
and egg tart
fried
fritters
grilled
omelet
and scrambled egg

Baking

Effects of incorrect
general
trays and tins

Balm

Banana

Bread pudding
and chocolate creams
meringue
preparation and use
and prunes, baked
sandwich

Barley

for cakes
uses of
Basil
Basting
Basting sauces
Bath buns

Batter

apple
coating
fritter
general method
meat in
pancake
pudding
thick and thin
toad-in-the-hole
value as food
Yorkshire

Bavarois
Bay leaf

Bean

and apple salad
Béarnaise
broad
broad, and bacon
dried, à la Bretonne
dried, Italian
French
French, hors-d'œuvre
for hors-d'œuvre, dried
runner

Beating

eggs

Béchamel sauce

Beef

boiled...
boiled, with horse-radish sauce
braised
curry
cuts to use
goulash
minced...
pot roast and
roast...
rolls
salad
stew...

Beef steak

with beer
fried
fried with onions
grilled...
-and-kidney pie
-and-kidney pudding
marinaded
spiced
stewed with olives

Beetroot

Harvard
hors-d'œuvre
and mint salad
preparation and use

Beverages...
Bilberries
Birthday cake
Biscuit crust

Biscuits

Afghans
almond
almond macaroons
Anzac nutties
chocolate
chocolate crispies
date bars
general information
gingernuts
honey-nut cookies
langues de chat
lemon finger
nutties
shortbread

Biscuit flan, uncooked
Black radishes

Blackberries

compote
dessert
double tart
flan
fool
preparation and use
soufflé
steamed pudding

Black cock

quantities to allow
roast...

Blanching
Blending
Blending method for sauces

Bloaters

grilled
hors-d'œuvre

Blueberries
Boiling
Bone stock
Bortsch
Bouquet garni
Boysenberries

Brains

amount required
boiled...
preparing
ways of cooking

Braising
Brawn

Bread

crumbs
keeping
quick
sauce
for stuffings
tea...
toast
Vienna

Bream
Brill
Broccoli
Brown Betty
Brown butter sauce
Brown sauce
Brush with egg or milk

Brussels sprouts

Lyonnaise
preparation and use
salad

Buffet party, recipes for

Buns

Bath
hot cross

Butter

cream
cream filling
Cumberland rum
icing
parsley
sardine
for spreading
watercress

Butterscotch

bread pudding
dessert
sauce
tart

Cabbage

and bacon
fried
preparation and use...
red
red, hors-d'œuvre
sour-sweet
stuffed leaves

Cakes

almond fruit
assorted iced
basic mixes and and
birthday
butterfly
cherry
chocolate layer
Christmas
coffee
creaming method
Dundee
fairy
fats for
fillings...
fruit, plain
general information...
gingerbread
girdle
Kolac
lemon and
Louise
Madeleines
melting method
melting moments
meringues...
methods of mixing...
one-stage method
orange
Pavlova
queen
rock
rubbing in method
six spice
sponge method
sponges...
of a thousand leaves
tins and trays
truffles
upside-down
Victoria sandwich

Caper sauce
Capiscums...

Caramel

crème
dessert
milk pudding, baked
mould
sauce

carbonnades flamandes, Les
Carp

Carrots

and peas
plum pudding
purée
recipes...
soup, cream
and sprouts
Vichy

Carving
Casseroles, kinds and

Cauliflower

and bacon sauce
hors-d'œuvre
Lyonnaise
mayonnaise
Milanaise
recipes...

Celariac

Celery

and apple sandwich
hors-d'œuvre
preparation and use
and blue cheese
soup

Cereals

breakfast
methods and recipes...
topping

Chard, Swiss
Charlotte russe

Cheese

and anchovy toast
biscuits with anchovy
blue and celery
bonbons
cake, curd
cakes, potato
chutneyed
cottage
fondue
fritters
general information
macaroni
omelet
pudding
puffs
quiche Lorraine
rarebit...
sandwich and
sauce
scones
and scrambled eggs
soufflé
spread, potted
straws
tart

Cherry

cake
compote
coupe
flan
gin
pie
preparing
sweet pickled
tart

Chervil

Chestnut

soup
stuffing

Chicken

amount required
blanquette
boiling, to roast
braised
casserole
choosing and cooking
fricassée
fried with almonds
grilled
paprika
pot roasted
preparing
roast...
sauté

Chicory

with cheese and ham
preparion and use

Chiffon pie filling
Children's party recipes
China utensils
Chinese gooseberries
Chives

Chocolate

biscuits
bread pudding
butter icing
crispies
fudge...
glacé icing
ice-cream
ice-cream cake
junket
layer cake
milk pudding
mould
mould with raisins
mousse
orange icing
peppermint dessert
pudding, steamed
sauce
soufflé

Chutney

cheese
and meat sandwich

Cider jelly

Cinnamon

drops
sauce

Claret cup
Coat
Coating for frying...
Cockles
Cocktail, rum
Cocoa making

Coconut

bread pudding
ice
macaroons

Cod

boiled
roe, fried
ways of cooking

Coffee

butter icing
cake
filling
glacé icing
ice-cream
iced
junket
making...
mould and

Coley
Conger eel
Consistency and
Consommé...
Cooking fats...
Corn salad
Corn, sweet...

Corned beef

hash
rissoles

Cornflake flan, uncooked
Cornflake meringues

Cornflour

for cakes
moulds...

Cornish pasties

Courgettes

curried soup

Crab

canned
choice and use
dressed
hot buttered
patties
salad

Cranberry

dessert
fool
pie
preparation
sauce

Crawfish, canned
Cream, to

Cream

butter
chantilly
crisps
from evaporated milk
general notes
machine
puffs...
reconstituted
of vegetable soup
for whipping
whip, jelly

Creaming method
Crème de menthe jelly
Crème de menthe sweets
Crème pâtissière
Creole potato salad
Croutons

Cucumber

preparation
salad

Currant

dessert
fool
preparation
soufflé

Curry

egg
fish
meat
salad
sauce
and scrambled egg

Custard

baked...
caramel...
sauce
slices
tart

Cut and fold

Dab

Damson

compote
dessert
flan
fool
mould
pie
preparing and using
pudding, steamed
soufflé

Date

bars
butterscotch pudding
and nut loaf
sandwiches
scones

Desserts...
Dice
Dissolve
Dot
Doughnuts, American
Dredge

Dripping

clarified
for cakes and pastry

Dry ingredients
Dublin bay prawn

Ducks and ducklings

amount required
choosing and cooking
preparing
roasting...

Dumplings
Dundee cake

Ears, pig's

amount to allow
boiled...
to prepare

Earthenware utensils
Eccles cakes
Éclairs

Eels

boiled
fried
smoked
suggestions for cooking

Eggplant

Eggs

and bacon tart
boiled...
with brown butter
cheesed
en cocotte
coddled
creams
and crumb coating
curried
custards...
fricassée
fried
general information...
for hors-d'œuvre
Lyonnaise
mornay
nog...
omelets...
pickled
poached...
poached, in aspic
Portugese
salad
salad hors-d'œuvre and
sandwiches and
sauce
Scotch
scrambled...
steamed
stuffed

Elderberries

dessert
fool
soufflé
steamed pudding
tart and

Enamel utensils
Endive
Espagnole sauce

Fats and frying...

Feet

amount to allow
boiled...
preparing
ways of cooking

Fennel

sauce
uses of

Figs
Fillet

Fish

à la Bretonne
au gratin
baked...
boiled...
cakes
canned...
chowder
cleaning
cocktail...
curried
doré
en papillote
filleting
fillets with lemon sauce
fried...
fritters
frozen
general information...
grilled... basting sauce for
Hungarian
kedgeree
marinade
mousse
pasties
pie
preparing
roes... and
sandwiches and
scaling
shell...
skinning
smoked hotpot
soufflé
soused
steamed
stewed...
stock
stuffing
suggestions for cooking

Flan

apple...
biscuit, uncooked
cheese
continental
cornflake, uncooked
kipper
to make
plum
salmon

Flavouring

for cakes
general

Flounders
Flour for cakes
Forcemeat...

Fowl

boiled...
choosing and cooking
roast... and

French cooking terms
French dressing
French mustard
Fritters...

Frozen

fish
fruit
meat
poultry
vegetables

Fruit

band
for cakes
in casserole
compote and
dessert and
flan
food value
fool
fritters and
moulds and
mousse
pie
preparation of
pudding, steamed
purée or pulp
punch
salad...
sauce
scones
soufflé
sponge
stewed...
stewed, dried...
tarts...

Frying

general information...
fish...
meat...
pans

Fudge

chocolate
crumb
icing

Game

braised
choosing
pot roasting
preparing and
roast...

Gammon, baked
Garlic
Garnish and
Gaspacho
Gelatine...
Genoese sponge
Gherkins
Giblets
Gin, sloe

cherry

Ginger

ale lemonade
and pear salad
pudding, steamed

Gingerbread
Gingernuts

Girdle

cakes
pancakes
scones

Glass utensils

Goose

amount required
roast...

Gooseberries

Chinese
compote
flan
fool
pie
preparation and use
tart

Goulash
Granadilla
Grapefruit

grilled

Grape juice lemonade
Grapes
Grate
Gray mullet

Greengages

compote
flan
fool
pie
prepration and use
tart

Grilling

basting sauces for
fish...
general
meat...

Grog

Grouse

amount required
choosing
roast...

Guinea fowl

amount required
choosing and cooking
roast...

Gumbo
Gurnard

Haddock

finnan, boiled
finnan, grilled
fresh boiled
suggestions for cooking

Hake
Halibut
Ham, boiled...
Hard sauce

Hares

amount required
choosing and cooking
jugged
preparing
roast...

Hash

corned beef
red flannel

Hawaiian egg nog

Heads

amount required
boiled...
to prepare
ways of cooking

Hearts

amount required
braised
to prepare
ways of cooking

Herb omelette
Herbs...

Herrings

canned...
fried
salad
salt
soused
steamed
suggestions for cooking
Swedish, baked

High tea, recipes for
Hock cup
Hollandaise sauce

Honey

and almond filling
nut cookies
sandwiches
sauce
uses

Hors-d'œuvre...

Horse-radish

sauce
uses

Hot cross buns
Hungarian fish stew

Ice-creams

cherry coupe
chocolate
chocolate ice cake
coffee
fruit mousse
general information...
meringue glacé
mocha
orange parfait
peppermint
vanilla mousse

Icings

butter...
chocolate glacé
coffee glacé
general information
glacé
milk chocolate
royal
water
white mountain

Invalid cookery

Jam

junket
pancakes
pudding, steamed and
puffs
roll, baked
sauce
tarts
use of

Jamaican long drink
Jellies...
John Dory
Junkets...

Kale
Kebabs
Kedgeree

Kidneys

amount to allow
fried
grilled...
omelet
to prepare
ragoût
ways of cooking

Kipper

grilled
flan
paté

Kitchen equipment...
Knead
Knives, kitchen
Kohl rabi
Kolac

Ladies' fingers

Lamb

amount to allow
baked with rosemary
boiled...
boiled breast
braised
casserole
chops, fried
chops with cucumber
cutlets, fried
cuts to use
goulash
pot roast
roast...
roast, stuffed
sashlik
spanish culets

Langoustine
Langues de chat
Lard for cakes and pastry

Leek

for hors-d'œuvre
preparation and use
soup

Leftovers, using up

Lemon

biscuits
bread pudding
butter icing
butter stuffing
curd
delicious pudding
jelly
layer cake
meringue nests
meringue pie
meringue pudding
preparation and use
refrigerator cake
sago
sauce
soufflé
snow
sorbet
sugar

Lemonade...

Lentils

preparation and use
soup

Lettuce

preparation and use
salad

Light diet
Ling
Liquor icing

Liver

amount to allow
braised
fried
grilled
minced...
and onions
pâté
pilaf
to prepare
provençale
ways of cooking

Lobsters

au gratin
cold
mayonnaise
patties
to prepare
salad
sauce

Loganberries
Louise cakes
Lunch, recipes for

Macaroni...

cheese...

Macaroons, almond

coconut
tartlets

Mackerel

boiled
suggestions for using

Madeleines
Maize...
Mangetout
Margarine
Marinade and
Marjoram

Marmalade

pudding, steamed and
sauce

Marrow...
Marshmallow icing
Marshmallows
Martini
Marzipan
Mayonnaise
Meal planning and preparing...
Measures...

Meat

balls...
in batter
boiled...
braised
brown stew
cakes
canned
carving
casseroles...
choosing...
cooked, reheating
curry
fricassée
fried...
fritters
frozen
general information
goulash
grilled...
hash
to keep
loaf
minced...
pot roasting and
preparing
quantities to allow
rissoles
roast...
sandwiches and
shape
stewed...

Melba sauce
Melons and
Melon and plum salad
Melting moments
Meringue glacé
Meringues...

Milk

beverages...
chocolate icing
general information...
jellies...
malted
posset
puddings, baked...
topping

Mille-feuilles
Mincemeat
Minestrone

Mint

and potato soup
and raisin sandwich
sauce
stuffing
to use

Mixing

Mocha

butter icing
dessert
refrigerator cake

Moulds, cereal...
Moussaka

Mousse

chocolate
fish
orange
vanilla

Mullet

Mushrooms

mousseline
omelet
sauce
soup
stock
to use

Mussels

angels on horseback
canned
to choose
for hors-dœuvre
marinières
to prepare
sauce
served cold
served hot
soup, canned
soup, fresh

Mustard

and cress
French
sauce

Mutton

boiled...
braised
casserole
curry
cuts to use
pot roasting
roast...

Nasturtiums

Nectarines

compote
flan
pie
preparation and use

Noodles, boiled

and cultured cream

Norwegian trifle
Nut and honey cookies
Nutmeg sauce
Nuts and
Nutties

Oatmeal

for cakes
porridge

Oats

porridge
Swiss, breakfast
uses

Offal

Oil

for cakes and pastry
for frying

Okra
Omelet à la crème
Omelet, Swedish
Omelets...

Onion

omelet
preparation and use
and sage stuffing
sauce
sauce, sour-sweet
soup
spring
sugared
toast
Welsh

Orange

and apple salad
baked custard
bread pudding
butter icing
cake
caramel
filling
jelly
julep
mousse
parfait
preparation and use
and rhubarb compote
salad and
sauce
snow
sugar

Orangeade

Ortalans

amount required
roast...

Oven, placing for baking
Overweight, feeding the

Ox-tail

amount required
stewed
ways of cooking

Oysters

au naturel
canned
to choose and open
sauce
soup
soup, mock

Pancakes...

girdle
Scotch

Pans, choosing
Paprika sauce
Parboiling

Parsley

butter
sauce
uses

Parsnips...

Partridge

amount required
roast...

Passionfruit
Pasteurizing

Pastry

apple dumplings
apple tart, double
apple tart, open
bacon and egg tart
berry tart, double
biscuit
butterscotch tart
chiffon pie
choux
continental flan
Cornish pasties
cranberry pie
cream crisps
custard slices
custard tart
Eccles cakes
fairy tarts
fish pasties
flaky
flan, fruit
flan, shaping
fruit pie
jam puffs
jam roll, baked
jam tarts
kipper flan
lemon meringue pie
lining a basin
macaroon tartlets
mince tarts
palmiers
patties
pie, covering...
plum flan
puff
rabbit pie
salmon flan
sausage rolls
short
steak-and-kidney pie
suet
sweet
Swedish
tart, double crust
tart, lattice top
tart, open
tart, small double
treacle tart
uncooked...
vanilla squares
veal-and-ham pie

Pâté

kipper
liver

Patties

crab
lobster
to shape

Pavlova cake

Peaches

compote
condé
flan
pie
preparation and use

Peanut butter sandwiches

Pears

Armandine
baked
compote
condé
flan
and ginger salad
preparation and use

Peas

and carrots
dried
edible-podded
French method
preparation and use...
soup
Spanish
sugar

Pease pudding
Peppermint ice-cream
Peppers, sweet...

Perch

to scale
suggestions for cooking

Pheasant

amount required
roast...

Pie dishes
Pies...

Pigeon

amount required
choosing
jugged

Pike
Pikelets
Pilaf, liver

Pilchards

canned...
fresh

Pineapples
Pink foam

Plaice

with cream and grapes
mornay
suggestions for cooking

Plover

amount required
roast

Plums

compote
flan
fool
and melon salad
pie
preparation and use
pudding, steamed
soufflé

Poaching
Pomegranates
Popovers

Pork

braised
casserole
chops, fried
cutlets à la charcutière
cuts, to use
grilled
minced...
pot roast
rissoles
roast...
roast with orange sauce
roast, savory
roast, stuffed
salt, boiled...

Porridge...
Pot roasting and

Potato

baked...
boiled
browned
cakes...
cakes with egg
with cheese
chip
crisps
duchess
flour
mashed
new
paprika
Parisian
preparation
ragoût
roast
salad and
soup...
starch
straws

Poultry

boiled...
choosing and cooking
fricassée
frozen
to prepare

Prawns

canned
curried
Dublin bay
hors-d'œuvre
to prepare
salad

Pressure cookers
Profiteroles with chocolate sauce

Prune

and apple stuffing
and bacon
fool
jelly
soufflé

Ptarmigan

amount required
roast...

Puddings

batter...
bread...
cereal milk...
custards...
doughnuts, American
fats for
fritters...
frozen...
fruit...
fruit sponge
fruit, steamed
ices...
jellies...
junkets...
omelets...
pancakes...
pastry - see Pastry
upside-down

Puddings, steamed

carrot plum
chocolate
Christmas
fruit and
ginger
how to steam
jam and
marmalade and
rhubarb
steak-and-kidney

Pulses
Pumpkin

Purée

fruit
general

Quail

amount required
roast...

Queen of puddings
Quiche Lorraine
Quince, preparation and use
Quince, stewed

Rabbit

amount required
boiled...
choosing and cooking
creamed
curry
jugged
pie
to prepare
roast...
stew or casserole

Radishes

black
for hors-diœuvre
preparation and use

Raisin

and chocolate mould
and mint sandwich

Raising agents
Rarebit...

Raspberry

flan
fool
mould
preparation and use
sorbet
tart

Raspings
Recipes, how to use...
Red flannel hash
Red mullet
Refrigerator cakes...
Rendering fat

Rhubarb

baked spiced
compote
flan
fool
mould
and orange compote
preparation and use
sherbet
soufflé
steamed pudding

Rice

baked pudding...
boiling
fried
ground, for cakes
ground, moulds...
ground, pudding...
kedgeree
lemon meringue
mould...
raisin
re-heating

Risotto

Rissoles

minced meat...
potato...

Roasting

general information...
pans

Rock salmon
Roe canapés, soft
Roes...
Rosemary with chicken
Rosemary with lamb
Rôtisserie
Royal icing
Rubbing in method

Rum

babas
butter, Cumberland
cocktail
omelet

Rye, uses

Sage

and onion stuffing
uses

Sago

moulds...
puddings...

Salads

asparagus
bean and apple
beef
beetroot and mint
Brussels sprouts
carrot and apple
cauliflower
celery and cheese
crab
cucumber
curried
dressings...
ham roll
herring
lettuce
lobster
orange
potato and
prawn
Russian
salmon
shrimp and egg
Spring
stuffed egg
Swiss
tomato and sweet pepper
tongue and
Waldorf

Salmon

boiled
canned...
flan
grilled
loaf
mayonnaise
mousse
open sandwich
rock
sandwich
smoked and

Salsify
Sandwiches...

Sardines

butter
canned...
with cheese sauce
for hors-d'œuvre
rolls
sandwiches

Saucepans
Sauces...

Sausages

amount required
fried
grilled
and paprika potatoes
rolls
sandwich
smoked
suggestions for cooking
toad-in-the-hole

Sauté, to
Savory
Savouries...
Savoys
Scald and
Scales
Scallops...
Scampi

Scones

cheese
date
drop
fruit
fruit rolls
girdle
plain

Seakale
Seakale beet
Sear
Seasoned flour
Seasonings and

Semolina

for cakes
moulds...
puddings...

Serving and garnishing and
Shallots
Shell-fish...
Shepherd's pie
Sherry sauce
Shopping suggestions...
Shortbread

Shrimps

and egg salad
for hors-d'œuvre
and orange salad
potted
preparation and use...
sauce

Sift
Silver beet
Simmer

Skate

boiled
suggestions for using

Skewer
Sloe gin

Snipe

amount required
roast...

Soft drinks...

Sole

with cream
meunière with orange
mornay

Sorbet, lemon
Sorbet, raspberry
Soufflé omelet
Soufflés...
Soups...
Sour-sweet onion sauce
Sousing
Soya flour
Spaghetti and
Spaghetti and meat sauce
Spanish cutlets
Spanish omelet

Spice

cake
icing
steak

Spinach

au gratin
creamed
creamed soup
with poached eggs
preparation and use...

Spit-roasting
Sponges...

Sprats

grilled
smoked
suggestions for using

Squash
Steel utensils

Stew

fish...
meat...

Stock...

Strawberry

flan
in orange juice
preparation and use
soufflé

Stuffings...
Suet

Sugar

for cakes
coloured
and sweets...

Sultana and nut loaf
Summer, recipes for
Suprême sauce

Swede

cream soup
preparation and use

Swedish apple cake

herrings, baked
omelet
pastry

Sweetbreads

amount required
to prepare
ways of cooking

Sweets...
Swiss breakfast dish
Swiss chard

Syrup

sauce
uses

Tail, ox

to prepare
stewed
ways of using

Tapioca

baked, pudding...
boiling
cream
date butterscotch
lemon
moulds...
source

Tarragon
Tartare sauce
Tarts... and...
Tea, to make
Tea, breads...

Teal

amount required
roast...

Temperatures

general
frying...
sugar

Tepid
Terrine
Thyme
Tin utensils
Tins, to prepare
Toad-in-the-hole

Toffee

apples
marzipan
plain

Tomato

cream soup
juice cocktail
and marrow
preparation and use
salad
sauce
soup
stuffed
and sweet pepper

Tongues

amount required
boiled...
to prepare
salad and...
ways of cooking

Tournedos vert pré
Trays, baking
Treacle
Treacle tart

Tripe

amount required
casserole
to prepare
ways of cooking

Trout

marinaded

Tuna...
Turbot

Turkey

amount required
choosing and cooking
preparation
roast...
stuffing

Turkish delight
Turnip ragoût
Turnips

Utensils

care of
choice of...

Vanilla

mousse
soufflé
squares

Veal

blanquette
braised
breast, boiled
chops, fried
cuts to use
escalopes...
forcemeat
fricassée
Galantine
goulash
grilled
and ham pie
jellied
minced...
mould
olives
pot roast
roast...
roast with orange sauce
roast, stuffed

Vegetable marrow...

Vegetables

au gratin
baked in casserole
boiling
canned
choosing and keeping
dehydrated
dried, boiling
frozen
general methods...
jardinière
Macedoine
pressure cooking
recipes...
roast
sauce for
soups... and
stewed in fat
stew or ragoût
stock

Velouté sauce

Venison

jugged
roast...
stew and
suggestions for cooking

Vermicelli
Vermouth long drink
Vichyssoise soup
Vienna bread
Viennese pastry
Vinaigrette sauce
Vol-au-vent

Watercress

butter
and potato soup
preparation and use
sandwiches
stuffing

Weigh, how to
Weights and measures...
Wheat
Whipping
Whitebait, fried
White mountain icing
White sauce and
White stew

Whiting

à la Bercy
fried

Widgeon, roast...
Wiener schnitzel
Woodcock, roast...
Wooden utensils

Yams
Yeast, use of...
Yogurt
Yogurt salad dressing
Yorkshire pudding...

Zabaglione
Zucchine, curried soup